An interesting article about making a chain oiler :

The HimalayanOiler

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

I've read many stories about people getting long life from their chains, 25k miles plus, when using chain oilers.

I installed Loobman a couple of months ago, but it basically went tits-up when the feed ties didn't hold up and installing new tires (r/r rear wheel) is a pain, also backing up can create problems.

Another guy ran into the same problem I did and has fixed a copper or alum tube to the end of the plastic delivery tubing that's 1-side delivery, not 2-sided. This has been my plan too. A stiff but also bendable tube might be the trick. I go through a lot of rear tires so it must be somewhat r/r friendly.

What I liked about the Loobman is that it's manually controlled, not automatic. I prefer to open my own and turn my headlights when I've decided it's needed...type of thing.

I got 15k miles from the last 525 x by using the Dupont Multi Purpose spray at the end of almost each day. After this Loobman failed on a fresh chain I started giving the chain a heavy wipe of 90w both, top and bottom, at the end of each day. It's showing a few minor(?) kinks after about 10k, but I'll run 'er till she's done and learn the score with this one.

Thanks for the info you posted.

Do the delivery tubes of the Loobman actually rub the rear sprocket ?

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

There's the tube and then it's finally dispersed/delivered via the ends of zip-ties, the lube running along those thin plastic strips. The theory is, as I understand it, that they lay on the side of the sprocket. From the end of the delivery tube rearward, it's not a system that will last, IMO.

I think that a piece of copper pipe or similar with the end flattened just in the middle would provide a double sided discharge for oil .This could be routed to feed the chain just behind the gearbox sprocket on the inside of the lower run .
Putting it here would achieve two things :
-- the oil droplets would hit their target and not be blown by the air blast at speed .
-- The chain would hardly move up or down due to suspension movements ,so the discharge tube would not be damaged .

I might give it a try if I can find a graduated oiler like the one in the article.

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

For some reason I like the idea of oiling from the rear sprocket. Maybe it's the over-spray reasons.
I haven't figuring it all out yet.
The Loobman bottle is your manual control on it's system. Squeeze when you feel froggy....

I may get off my ass and install the copper tube thingy on mine tomorrow.

I have a piece copper brake pipe on my Loobman, it is a nice push fit inside the original plastic tube, no need to squash it, just make sure it JUST touches the rear sprocket above the chain. Any oil will find it's way across the rollers and lubricate both sides. My last chain lasted 30,000 miles (Triumph Trophy 1200cc)
** The oil doesn't run, it drips out. I use cheap engine oil or any that is left from a oil change (new oil). I tried 80/90 gear oil once but it was to thick, maybe it would be ok in a hot climate?

Trophymick

I made my own low tech (use nothing I didn't have lying around already) chainoiler some time ago and then found it worked pretty much the same as the loobman method.

Mine feeds the chain at the bottom of the rear sprocket - the idea being that going round the sprocket would spread the oil and minimise fling off. Controlling the drip rate took a bit of trial and error but the current method has brass tubing to within 1cm of the sprocket and a piece of narrow bore plastic tube for the last bit. This tube is 0.8mm mig welder torch liner - it cost £2.00 for 1 1/2 m so at 1cm a time it should last a while. I wanted the last bit replaceable if it wears out or blocks up.

The up side is that it's manual - squeeze the bottle when you want to lube the chain. Don't if its only a short trip and you don't want it dripping on the drive for ages afterwards.
The down side is - its manual! I frequently forget to use it until I've got to my destination and overoiling does coat the swinging arm, shock etc leading me to think "don't use it today, its messy enough already"

Overall though it does what I wanted - a new chain fitted at the same time as the oiler hasn't yet needed any adjustment and it does get much more lube than it ever did with sprays. Feeding it to the gearbox sprocket is probably a better idea though and that'll probably get altered before my next big trip.

The Loobman type is very simple but doesn't give you much control .It seems the only way to alter the rate of flow is to change the viscosity of the oil and once you've squeezed it it will drip until the hose is empty .
That's why I like the idea of the oiler with it's graduated feed and a tap.

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

My set-up is like this: I have the main oil bottle (reservoir) with the oil feed line coming from it (plastic tube, similar to fish tank tube) , that line then goes into a syringe (small one, with the plunger removed),it is held into the syringe via a piece of 2cm long rubber fuel hose (the oil pipe is pushed through the rubber fuel hose, nice snug fit) which in turn fits into the top of the syringe (again, it has to be a snug fit). The syringe (conveniently) has ml measurement marks on it, so I give the reservoir bottle a squeeze, until I have the required amount of oil in the syringe ( depending on the weather, or how far I intend to ride), that oil then makes it's way south through more plastic tube (gravity) towards the rear sprocket, and then oils the chain
No moving parts, all parts easily replaced almost anywhere in the world, cost, considering the years I have had this set-up, nil Also tried and tested over 35,000 miles so far, with the only mod being the syringe and the copper brake pipe, which has proved to be most reliable, speaks for itself
All this talk of dual feed is OK, but oil will run and spread on it's own, keep it simple and reliable, you don't want to be faffing about with oil, if you can help it


Trophymick

Thats just about the same as mine even down to the syringe. I used a cut down plastic wine cork to seal it though!

Hey! Great minds....................



Trophymick

saw an article on internet once about buildint a scotoiler type thingy using a fuel injection nozzle so that the oil only flowed when bike was running.... was well cool too