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9 Feb 2015
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: West Yorkshire UK
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I can’t remember where I spotted the discussion on V7’s and LED indicators. However my preparation for sidecardom has involved a bit of experimentation that may also be of use to anyone wanting to use LED indicators, trailer electrics, doing fault finding etc. Please note the following, to my knowledge, only applies to single injector bikes, the two-injector type has a more conventional relay under the tank according to the parts lists I have.
My 2014 has the indicators wired on four pins of the clocks pod. I have not been far enough in to this to define exactly what it is but:
1. If you disconnect any lamp it flashes double speed ; failed lamp detection by resistance.
2. If you bypass the rear lamp to go to two lamps on a sidecar, leaving the front (now middle) lamp in place all is well (electrically at least).
3. If you remove the front-now-middle lamp and power the sidecar pair off the rear it detects the front as a failure and flashes double speed.
4. If you replace the front-now-middle with a 12 Ohm resistor and run the sidecar off the rear “driver” all is well.
5. If you pull the 5A fuse centralmost in the fuse block, nothing except the dashboard flashes and that at double speed.
There is certainly more to the inside of the instrument pod than a single relay. It acts like twin relays, so is undoubtedly electronic. This gives me concerns about how much power it can drive. Therefore:
a) If you use an LED in this circuit you will need resistors, electrically negating a lot of the advantages of an LED. I do not know how small you could go but would guess at 6 Ohms, the equivalent of a 5W lamp would be safer.
b) You cannot join these circuits, four indicators are driven off four circuits each with failure detection.
c) For sidecar use I will be using one lamp and one LED on the chair to avoid overloading the circuit while staying within the resistance boundaries for failure detection.
I’ve added the break-in loom I’ve made to my service idiot sheets here;
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
The good news is that many of the electrical connectors such as the 6-pin 2.6mm are industry standard. The nice red one I bought is Suzuki spec.
The indicator set-up looks to be a hybrid between conventional and CAN. All four indicators are wired back to the clock pod where the driver lives, there is no attempt to run the rears off the engine ECU and save the resulting four feet of cable. The switch gear and power also enters the clock pod, so in the event of failure if would be possible to retrofit the earlier relay, albeit with a fair bit of wiring. Given the clock pod has a CAN link to the engine ECU, I smell change pending where a later model will go to full CAN.
Andy
Last edited by Threewheelbonnie; 10 Feb 2015 at 12:28.
Reason: errors
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