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I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



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  #91  
Old 8 Apr 2013
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The New World V.3 – Towards the Capital!


By: AlexMD On April 2, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World




I feel that this journey is not just a “cruise” through space, shifting from A to B and seeing places. Many times it´s about discovering (sometimes superficially and other times on a deeper lever) people. People you meet day by day. Always different personalities. Always different lives. You take with you, faces, gestures and words, small fragments that follow you in your journey and you pass them forward to the people you meet onwards. Some of them you might never meet again. But that´s the least important. There is a connection somewhere and you know there is no need for other words or explanations.

Ehee… you see, riding the motorcycle gives you enough time, plenty of time for thoughts, lie above and many others. And I feel that is one of the best part about traveling on a motorcycle. Somehow the open road, the scenery, the sound of the engine, all of this invites you to use your brain, to search, to discover, in your “interior”, as much as you discover by traveling, in the “exterior”. W
e were heading for Pico Truncado, where Daniel, our “old” friend, was waiting for us. He helped us alot the first time we were in the area and now he was waiting for us with a new transmission set for Gunnar. This time we get to meet his family, open and optimistic people just like him. We felt welcomed and it felt really good.

Ah and of course, we “had to” try the Argentinian stake (asado). Just like it´s traditional for the Finns to have a sauna in the house (or close to it), Argentinians must have their barbeque always ready for action.

This time I’ll keep my promise and I won´t share any food pictures, although that stake deserved all the credits. Well or the cook did. The stake was incredible, not less than a culinary dream came true
The next day we were planning to stop dreaming and get back on the road. Or so we thought.Well, it’s one thing what we want and another what the weather has in store. Daniel told us that it almost never rains in Pico Truncado. I mean, people can count the rainy days during the year. And even if it is raining it is never heavy. Usually. But not this time. This time they had to close some streets because of flooding.


Great! Actually, I don´t think we could have made a run for it and we would have been fine, but our hosts decided that there was no way we could get out of the house on this weather and on their watch, on this weather when not even dogs should not be kept outside.

So, after we spent 2 extra days in Tierra del Fuego because of the wind, this time we are “stuck” here because of the rain. It´s not actually a problem, good talks, excellent asado and grandma-made empanadas make for a nice Sunday spent in house. And sun comes out fast in such company so the second day we are ready to hit the road, not before receiving another amazing gesture of good faith from Daniel: when talking about Buenos Aires and the traffic there, Danie knew that our GPS was broken for some time now, so he wants to make sure we don´t get lost in the big city. So, he wants to give us his GPS for the remaining of our trip in Argentina. “It´s OK, you can send it back with a bus before you leave Argentina.” We were speechless. What´s there to say other than a big thank you. With Daniel’s GPS with us it´s less likely we get lost (ya, right) so back in the saddle. Goodbye, lovely family!

Buenos Aires is getting closer. We are less than 1500 kilometers closer to the capital city of Argentina.

Before reaching Buenos Aires we spent two nights in random but interesting places. First one, a resort by the Atlantic Ocean (I always loved the resorts off season) with colored buildings and interesting messages.

The other one was Azul, a small city 300 kilometers away from Buenos Aires, in a place called “La Posta de viajero“. People there own motorcycles and are passionate about motorcycle travel so they decided to offer a place to camp for the other travelers. And now it´s not just a place to camp in a yard full of rabbits. It is so much more.

You find good advice, someone to listen, tools if you need to make any repairs and there is a big chance to meet other fellow travelers. There is no price list or bookings, everything is based on donations. There is a box where you leave as much as you want if you want and if you can. Jorge, the owner, convinced us to stay one more day, what was the hurry anyway? Why hurry to get to a big city when you can camp and get visitors like this:

Jorge has a tradition: he puts up the flags of the visitors he has. One week ago he even had the Union Jack flag (England) up. That night, there were 3 flags up.
It´s getting harder to leave this place and even harder to pack, we have a long debate on whether or not Gunnar should take an extra passenger. Jorge has nothing against it but it´s hard to convince Andreea that we cannot take our new friend: we don´t have a bunny helmet!
We left our furry friend behind, we are curious if he misses us and more curious about what´s ahead. We get pretty close but the landscape refuses to give us any hints on how close the big city is. Same narrow road, only 2 lines going straight ahead, same endless fields and spectacular sky.
And still we know that the autonomous city of Buenos Aires (there is an interesting story about that name) has over 3000000 inhabitants and the metropolitan area more than 12 millions. So sooner or later we will meet the obvious effects of a large urban area. The road gets “a little bit”… larger and we have to pay for it now (notice the small booths).
And buildings soon get taller, reaching for the sky, like jumping up in a desperate attempt to escape the crazy traffic below.
We were in a big city again and as we walked down the streets we felt like walking the streets of an European city. We get to an old neighborhood where we spot a huge tree making its way through tall buildings. Its branches were so big that they needed an improvised support to prevent them from crawling on the ground.
The old tree reminds us of our roots. We remember we are going back to Europe soon, back home. But not yet, we have a small “detour” planned. Stay tuned!
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  #92  
Old 8 Apr 2013
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The New World V.4 – A small detour


By: AlexMD On April 7, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World


In Buenos Aires we had to face an important decision: how to send the motorcycle back home?
We already had our plane tickets from Sao Paolo to Europe in two weeks. It would have been a good option to ship the motorcycle from Sao Paolo also, or maybe Rio, it was not that far. This would be around 3000 km, the last kilometers of our trip. We would get there, leave the motorcycle in cargo and prepare to fly home.

But… it´s not as easy as it seems. I sent some emails to shipping agents (you can only arrange cargo shipping through them) but the ones in Brazil didn´t give me any good news: lots of bureaucracy at customs, complex shipping process and lots of “uncertainties”. Here´s how one of the conversations with a Brazilian agent went:
“You will need to prepare . And the process will take from 3 to 14 days.” “Well… I am in Buenos Aires now, and I have a plane from Sao Paolo to Munich in 14 days. It would help me alot to know how long it will take because it´s a pretty big difference from 3 to 14 days and we might not catch our plane under these circumstances.” “We are sorry but we cannot tell for sure. It´s all up to the authorities here.”
I decide to contact Bogdan, who shipped my motorcycle from Otopeni to Montreal and his investigations lead to the same result. This is not good at all. So change of plans: we send the motorcycle from Buenos Aires (where things seemed to be a lot more easier) and then see how we can get to Sao Paolo to “catch” our flight to Munich.
In this case what shall we do the next 2 weeks? There is no use to stay in Buenos Aires (especially since it is not a cheap town). Let´s go visit something. A 10 days “detour” that includes Iguazu falls, a little bit of Paraguay, South of Brazil and Uruguay. Not bad, ha? So, this is how it looks like on the map. Instead of 3000 km to Sao Paolo, we have more than 3500 to… well, basically back to starting point.
We find the way out of Buenos Aires very easy using the GPS that Daniel borrowed us and we head North-West and so is the rain.
The route we were supposed to take, Ruta 14, had a bad reputation because of the corrupted police who have a passion for pulling over foreign motorcyclists. There is even a dedicated multiple pages thread on HUBB where people tell stories about km 341 where the is a “special” police station.
We were prepared for the worst. We even had a phone number of a local motorcyclist who offered to help if we were to be stopped. He even gave us useful advice on how to approach them and stuff like that. The rain and the prospected meeting didn´t make today´s ride very relaxing.
And here we are, reaching the famous kilometer and as we already read about it, a policeman comes out of the building walking towards the road, towards us. We were riding below the speed limit but we were pretty stressed about this check point as we knew it´s not up to us, we don´t have to do something wrong to get pulled over. He was heading towards us but we notice something in his right hand, oh, he was talking on the phone. His other hand remain down, didn´t signal us to stop. We are relieved and thank God to have kept the policeman busy, to have given him better things to do than stop us. Andreea takes a peak (with her camera) to the police station where probably we would have been invited. No, thank you!
We managed to get rid of the police but the rain kept following us. And we had no idea what it had prepared for us. Less than two minutes we found ourselves caught in a grey cloud. It gets really dark although it is only 2 pm. Emergency stop to put on the rain suit.
We stopped on time as shortly after we could barely see anything from the rain. We decide to stop at a gas station, the first sheltered place we could find. We were soaked so we decided to wait for the rain to stop before we start again. It didn´t stop for good but it wasn´t that bad we could still see the traces it left behind: flooded crops, sometimes even the road was full of red water (the color of the land in these parts).
It´s clear that we have nothing else to do but keep going hoping to get out of the cloud. We keep riding towards Iguazu and after a few hours the rain stops and we manage to see a vague blue hope in the distance.
As the sky gets clearer we get traffic partners. Same as in Chile, they all have helmets. Even the “extra passenger”.
Although there was plenty of rain, people were still thirsty. Some had to carry some “holy water” with them?!??
And since they had the “holy water” to take care of their head and mind they used the helmet as elbow protection. Oh well, at least everyone is happy! Some with their bottle, other with football and others with… maté plantations.
We get closer to Iguazu and the sun gets ready for bed, good time to enjoy the peace and quiet of the forest.

Hoping to catch the sunset over the waterfall we go straight to nation park but we discover that it is closed after 6 pm so we cannot get in today. Back to the city then, 18 km ride in the night and the traditional search of a place to sleep.
We go to bed thinking about what we are about to see the next day. Iguazu Falls, second largest (volumetric) waterfall in the world is so close that we can hear it from here. Actually Iguazu it is not that close and what we hear is the rain that caught us again and now was having a party on our roof. See you tomorrow!
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  #93  
Old 13 Apr 2013
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Guys, sorry for the slow updates. Getting back to "real life" is not always very cheerful or inspiring... But let's hope it will turn better and better

Until then, here is a new episode, I hope you'll enjoy the fall...s


The New World V.5 – Iguazu Falls


By: AlexMD On April 13, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World





We awake being aware that we are in close proximity of two “landmarks”. Iguazu Falls, the second in the world based on water volume and Itaipu Dam, the world’s biggest electricity generating hydro plant. In other words, majesty of nature and greatness built by human race. The plan for today is to visit the natural wonder, leaving the dam for the next one. The waterfall is only a few miles away from where we are. But ’till we wake up, ’till we have some breakfast, here they are, rain drops singing on the roof. And by the sounds of it, I am quite sure that you don’t even have to move from the house to see a “waterfall”. It is enough to pull the window curtains aside. Ta daaaa!

Like a bad prophecy, the boat was “parked” next to our window. Uh, I do hope I won’t have to change my name to Noe and gather the animals….

As the situation in the backyard was not optimistic, I am thinking to go to the front entrance, maybe there there will be at least a hint of blue skies? No chance. One guy who wake up in the morning (when it was not raining) was having lots of fun now on a scooter driving down a flooded road. Myeah, seems there can be good aspects of sleeping in. Here’s today’s lesson, one that Andreea applied as often as she could during this trip: sleep late

We wait for the rain to stop, or at least to pretend to be stopped, based on principle: “at least when I get out of the house I want not to get wet. After that… not important anymore”. Around 11 AM things seem to be in a stand still with St Peter and we quickly go for Plan B. Plan B was big, sluggish and had many passengers. Plan B was of course, a bus! Which was our way to say that “today we are not motorcyclists, today we are tourists”
We arrive in the national park and everything goes smoothly. Give some money for the tickets (n times more expensive for foreigners than for locals, but it’s OK, we’re already used to that, we had “trainings” in Peru and Bolivia about that) and get in return a smile from the lady at the counter, a map of the park and good wishes. Good. Let’s go to the train station. Yes, the park has its own train that takes you between different main points where the trails start to the falls. The thing is serious, they have more than one platform, signs, and even a schedule and a “display” with the next departure time.

The colorful birds are found everywhere around, careful not to miss bread crumbs left by tourists.

The 2 o’clock (sharp) train leadsus through dense vegetation …

… among thousands of butterflies playing in the sun. I remember Mexico and “Mariposa road” there. Seems like yesterday. Hard to believe that 5 months have passed since then… For us it is still the same summer, the same… fun!

We are awaken from our Mexican dreams by the train brakes. I arrived. From here on, a one-kilometer metal walkway will take us to the edge. But at first, all is calm, all is normal.

Pressing on, there are signs explaining the “rules”. Humans on one trail, the snakes on the other. Hmm what about the humans who behave like snakes? But enough with that…

Waters beneath us continue to be lazy, giving no hint that soon it will be totally different. Even the birds seem bored in the drowsy summer heat.


After a while, a thick rumble is distinguishable. The eyes see only a vague steam, rising from what seems to look a calm river.

But appearances can be deceiving. That’s not steam and that’s NOT a calm river overthere. Before getting here, we red some stuff about Iguazu Falls. The name means “big water” in Guarani dialect, it is the second greatest water debit in the world, but because the river here has a very wide bend, the water falls are not a continuous curtain (as Victoria in Africa) but small islands divide the water in over 200 “smaller” waterfalls with heights between 60 and 80 meters.

Largest such waterfall, where the water concentrates with high speeds is called by the Spanish “Garganta del Diablo I ” (Devil’s Throat) and there, on the edge of his ridge was our destination. So we knew a few dry things, read in advance, but nothing prepared us for what was waiting. Like Andreea seems to say, “Dear God, what’s here?”

We are at the point where the river waters flow impetuously, hit the rocks hard only to fall more than 80 meters below.

Thousands cubic meters of water, launching over the edge, drumming on the stubborn rocks with incredible strength. And the walkway takes you so close, you can feel the waters vibrate inside you. I never felt more “on the brink” of something than there.

And the name of the place seems appropriate as well. Water has a hellish howl and gray clouds in the sky accentuate the gloomy feeling. I remember the Niagara Falls, which we saw at the beginning of our trip. There the waters seemed more calm and beautiful summer sun and rainbow seemed to fill bohemian picture. Here, however, one is so close to the harsh and unforgiving waters that it is hard to compose in your mind a peaceful picture. At least not from this point of view.

And of course, everything gets wet almost instantly around.

The waters who take their fall here, continue their flow between a great procession, of white water and green vegetation, like in a huge Cathedral. Somewhere in that direction lies their “salvation”, somewhere there lies the blue Atlantic Ocean.

I realize that it is hard to leave that place. We linger more than other tourists and I note something strange. Beautiful, no doubt, but somehow (and it is hard to explain) the place is “heavy”, after a while seems like it sits on your shoulders? Eventually we move away slowly, in search of more peaceful places, which are not hard to find, down the metal paths invaded by vegetation (metal and green, what a strange combination).

And the waterfall is not the only attraction in Iguazu National Park. If you’re careful you can find many animals. Just be careful of what the green canopy might hide.

What could it be, what could it be? Yes! it is a Tucan bird! Ohoo like in the cartoons from the childhood!

If Tucan birds are quite shy and generally stay away from people, other animals are not afraid at all to look for food, aggressively if necessary, on your path. Mind your step!


All these movements of troops on the ground, are carefully kept under observation from high above, in the control tower.

And more playful than all, butterflies remain the “kids” of the house, flying all around and “landing” on everything and everyone. Even on travelers.


In our walk, the green canopy opens occasionally, like a curtain of a show, allowing a sneak peak to the show that unfolds beyond.


Other and other waterfalls, all from the same great concert.


Slowly the night is approaching and we have to head towards the exit of the park. I spent here not even a full day but somehow it seams like years. And the funny thing is, I feel I could spend years more. But, it is time to move on. We leave, but we take a part of Iguazu with us. Farewell!
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Old 18 Apr 2013
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The New World V.6 – Itaipu


By: AlexMD On April 18, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World





We are at the “crossroads” of 3 countries: top end of Argentina, buttom end of Brazil and a strip of Paraguay and 2 majestic rivers: Parana, the big river and Iguazu, the one giving birth to the waterfall we just visited a day before. We are in a good spot so we decide to take advantage of our position and visit Paraguay, mostly for Itaipu Dam, one of the largest in the world. To get to Iaipu we have to leave Puerto de Iguazu (Argentina), cross into Brazil through Foz do Iguazu and then cross the Parana river into Paraguay (Ciudad del Este).

The plan was to get back to Puerto Iguazu (Argentina) in the same day so we decided not to involve our motorcycle in this visit hence not worrying about temporary import papers for both Brazil and Paraguay. So here we are back to public transportation. We are starting to like riding the bus.
The bus we take from Puerto Iguazu (Argentina) stops at the border check point for everyone on the bus to get their exit stamp for Argentina. I am pretty nervous since, in theory, I entered Argentina on my motorcycle and now I was planning to leave it by bus (luckily nobody checked). Ok, so we have our exit stamp for Argentina, now where do we get the entry stamp for Brazil? I asked the lady at the border crossing and she smiles at me informing me that if I plan to stay a couple of days in Brazil and get back into Argentina using the same border there is no need for customs process. Seriously? Mmmm, fine… I find it hard to believe but if the official is saying it, it should be true. So everyone is back in the bus and we ride smoothly into Brazil without any other stops at customs.
We get off the bus at the final stop, very close to the “bridge of friendship” between Brazil and Paraguay. Before reaching the bridge we have to pass the border crossing office for exiting Brazil.

We are again nervous and confused, what if an official wants to put the exit stamp on our passport? He will be looking for the entry stamp… and it will take him forever. We take a break to think things over. This is very serious for us, others don´t seem to care about it and they are all passing us by carrying large bags, cardboards, cases, chests, handbags and many other items. They are all passing by the officials and none of them bother to stop.Well, if they are doing it I can´t see why we cannot. We don´t have anything to carry so we stick our hands in our pockets and walk like we own the place. The guards might not care about us but we still feel like we are part of a James Bond movie. Unlike 007 we don´t have an Aston Martin or other fancy vehicle so we cross the bridge by foot. Pretty crowded I would say.


Same thing happening on the Paraguayan side: people passing by the customs building without bothering to stop and get a stamp, not to mention to declare whatever they were carrying in all the big boxes. This time I insist on doing things “officially” so we venture into the building. In the beginning the people behind the desk don´t understand exactly why would we bother them but finally they get that we would like to hmmm, enter the country. They stamp our passports without asking any questions, probably (from the look on their faces) thinking we want the stamp as a souvenir. There is a tourist information office in the same building, they have maps and everything and a pretty lady who helps us find the right means to reach Itaipu. The fast and easy option was to take a cab. But for us that meant caging ourselves in a yellow cell and only get glimpses of the life here. We choose instead the classic (by now) method: local bus so that we could take in as much as possible of Paraguay in our short visit there. The bus station was not that close so we had to walk a few kilometers through Ciudad del Este. What can I tell you about this city… it´s all a big market place. One market stand after the other, small store, large store, tiny stores.

There´s not a single thing you cannot find here, from tires to plasma TVs, from shoes to dental equipment. Of course you receipts or other “papers” are only for newbes… and these guys are professionals. And it is hard to determine exactly the work of some people as we see a lot of them just sitting in their chairs by the side of the road. They don´t seem to be selling anything and if they are they are not very convincing. We were there at around 11 AM and they didn’t seem to have any pressing things to get done. Oh, the sweet relaxation!

But not everybody has the luxury of relaxing. As it’s a very hot climate there, somebody has to make sure that all the ACs are working properly. And I do meen… ALL of them. Hmmm, I wonder if there is somewhere a diagram or something, to show which box is for whom and what. I doubt it.

We find the bus as well or better said it finds us. We were just arriving in what we were not so sure it is the bus station when an old blue thing stops with squeaking sounds near the side of the road and a guys speaking very fast is pushing us in. We barely have time to ask if this is indeed the bus to Itaipu and we get only a hasty “si si” before we are inside. Suddenly I feel transported in the 80s in one of the old buses that used to run in Romania. Suddelntly I have that warm feeling from childhood spent in the countryside, when we used to hitchhike a ride with the local bus to the town to get ice-cream or to see a movie.


After a while the bus stops and deposits us on the side of the road, at some crossing. From here the Hydro-plant is not far. Gracias amigos!

We look around, trying to determine the right way to walk and we discover more people doing hard work. Chairs all over the place, with nice music, some food and some drinks. Ah… the life!

We find the hydro complex and we head to the tourist building. The free tour will consist of a 30 minutes movie, followed by a live tour of the dam, in a bus. The movie was quite educative and then we hop in the bus, looking forward to be amazed. First we pass near big transformation stations.

… and then we reach a point from where you have a wide view of the hole complex, with the huge spillways in the foreground and the long dam in the background.

Itaipu is not the biggest dam in the world. Also it is not the tallest nor the widest. But it has the first place in a very important area: it holds the record of anual generated electricity with over 90 TWh. To put things into perspective Hoover dam generates annually 4.2 TWh.

The 20 installed turbines are divided equally, 10 to Brazil and 10 to Paraguay. But as Paraguay requires for internal use only 2 of the 10 turbines, the remaining 8 are “lend” to Brazil. So huge power-lines are crossing the river, transporting the current to Sao Paolo area.

With the output of the 2 turbines Paraguay covers around 90% of the TOTAL electricity needs. On the other hand, even with the extra help of the 8 turbines (so 18 in total), Brazil gets only 15% of the needed electicity from Itaipu. Speaking of David and Goliath…

The guide gives us more interesting information about the construction of the dam. For example, the project was a joint venture between Paraguay and Brazil, involving bi-national teams that handled the project. There were no external companies, no big corporations from outside and multinational organizations (with the usual over-pricing, passed deadlines and such). While this might have caused some doubts regarding the quality or the speed of constructions, it turned out that the local guys did quite a good job and very fast as well. At it’s peak rate of raising the dam, the pace was equivalent with finishing a 20 stories tall concrete building…every 55 minutes!
There were though also controversial aspects (cleverly overlooked by our guide) mainly related to the destruction of the ecosystems in the area where the artificial lake was created. For example the Guaira waterfalls, one of the biggest in the world before 1982, disappeared entirely in the artificial lake. With an height of over 110 meters (Iguazu is 82) and with a flow rate of over 13000 cubic meters per second (Iguazu has 1700), Guaiara must have been an impressive sight. But, for us, the ones that did not get to see it, we have only the pictures remaining.
Our visit ends soon, maybe too soon. We would have loved to get the chance to enter inside one of the turbines. But it is time to go and our general conclusion was that, despite the controversy, Itaipu remains a successful and useful project.
For us, it is time to get back in Argentina and reunite with Gunnar. Starting tomorrow we will enter again Brazil, this time doing it properly: riding our on bike and doing all the paperwork. We promise!
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Old 30 Apr 2013
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I'm back. Sorry for the long wait guys. But I am back to "9to6 + overtime" working schedule and at least during this period not much time for anything else.

But let's not get sad. Here we go, episode V.7, and 2 more to go until the end.

The New World V.7 – Sol e chuva em Brasil


By: AlexMD On April 30, 2013 in Part V, The New World



“If only I could understand what she is saying…” this lady that keeps trying to teach me Portuguese but has to fight all this outside noise to get to my ears. We were getting closer to the Brazilian border, by motorcycle this time and we were trying to speed up the process of learning Portuguese. The audiobooks we have with us don´t really help. We need more time and a quiet place, the saddle of a motorcycle is not the most comfortable place to learn, especially when the wind blows heavily and you can barely hear the voice in the helmet.

But we still want to be prepared for Brazil. We will be riding the South of Brazil and people also speak Spanish in the South, we now speak Spanish pretty well but it doesn´t make us feel any better. We really want to speak Portuguese and do it correctly. Out of respect for Brazilians and for this beautiful language we don´t just want to rely on Spanish and not even give a chance to Portuguese.
It was time to close the circle and get back to Buenos Aires where we were supposed to board Gunnar on a plane to Munchen. It would have been easier to get back on the same route we took to Iguazu…. but we still had a few days left to wander so we decided to take a “detour” through South of Brazil and Uruguay.
We don´t have any problems crossing the border, the little Portuguese we learned along the ways comes in handy so I head for the customs building while Andreea stays with the motorcycle. The customs officers are friendly and funny. I get easy treatment for answering slow to their questions but still in Portuguese. Meanwhile Andreea is luckier and gets a note in her wallet without even noticing (she founded later, in the plane to Europe): “Jose 3414___ 23″ Oh well, be patient and wait for our call! But don´t hold your breath on it.

We are wandering for 3 days through the Brazilian pampas following unfamiliar roads sneaking through endless hills.
We weren´t very efficient the first 2 days. The sky was heavy and we felt the same way.
Each time we were stopping to ask for directions, search for a place to eat or sleep we had the chance to listen the sublime Portuguese language. I honestly love the sound of it. It would be better if we were also able to understand something… But we have to get along with sign language and the few words we were able to learn. And it´s working. And when it doesn´t… we improvise and not from Spanish. Andreea reaches to a simple conclusion that any word we don´t know in Portuguese (and that´s almost all of them) can be learned “on the spot” by using the Romanian version of it plus the ending “ao”. You don´t think it will work? Check this out: Atencao, Intersecao! Ro: Atentie! Intersectie!
Of course this attempt is far from being true and applicable but the idea helps us to kill some time while each of us comes up with “Portuguese” words using the above mentioned method. And we could use killing some time since most of it was raining.
Rain in the sky, rain on the ground. Rain all over the place and water reaches the most hidden places. Small threads are slowly sneaking into the boots so every evening we have a new ritual to dry out…. everything we had on that day and humidity doesn´t help.
The next morning… we start all over again.
But no reason to feel sad. The weather is not so good with us but the people are. We couldn´t speak their language so well but we did manage to understand each other. For instance, the owners of the hotel above, in Cruz Alta- Rio Grande do Sul, allowed us to stay longer in their hotel (after check-out time), even insisted to stay one more day when they saw that rain doesn´t stop. They invited us to a warm maté and while we were waiting for the rain to stop the boy went and cleaned Gunnar´s windshield (“you have to be able to see the roads, there are some wholes in them around here). Also, when he saw that we have a lot of flags on our paniers he ran to the store to get us one with Brazil. Thank you!
Eheee, since the rain didn´t seem to stop we decide to leave Cruz Alta hoping to get out of this persistent cloud.
We would get out of it but after one more very wet day. But as we are heading South- East things change for the better, finally. We get to see blue skies again!
We almost forgot it´s March! Which means that it´s autumn here, it´s harvest time! The wheat fields do their ritual dance in the wind to welcome the lazy reapers who will cut the burden of their ears.
All of a sudden we are surrounded by the late Baragan summer. We forgot about the rainy days. We forgot about cold an humidity. It´s warm now, it´s quiet and peaceful. Just that there is no time for melancholy. The crickets we here are not the Romanian ones, we are not home yet so we need to keep riding. We are so close now.
We are heading South but I have to do something else before leaving Brazil. Some time ago, while still freezing in Patagonia, I promised something to Andreea.
While the wind was blowing us off our… wheels I promised Andreea to stop one day at the beach, a warm beach, before going back home. So here we are trying to find such a place. To do this we need to get closer to the ocean (that´s where the beaches are, right?). Before that we found ourselves crossing Pontal dos Latinos and Pontal dos Santiagos two protected areas of outstanding ecological interest. There are all kinds of birds and animals all around us… and butterflies.

And above all, Andreea notices a turtle in the middle of the road. I hit the breaks and turn around.
It´s still there, of course. Pretty shy and not in a mood for talking.
We carefully try to figure out the direction she wanted to take to cross the street and we move her out of the road. And there it is, somewhere in Brazil, we found the answer to the serious question we were asked so many times on this journey: “Why did you go?”. “Well…. to help a turtle cross the street in Brazil.” Does this answer your question?

As the sun behind us gets ready to set we turn left on a road that goes to a small village by the side of the Atlantic Ocean. It is time to keep my promise!
Hermenegildo or Balneario do Hermenegildo. We are again lucky to meet extraordinary people. We got there looking for a place to stay and we found friends again. Gunnar is safe in the parking, our dusty clothes are off, it´s time to spend one last day (on this journey) on a beach by the Atlantic Ocean. It´s just the two of us here. And it feels so good!
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The New World V.8 – Gunnar takes off!


By: AlexMD On May 3, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World





Gunnar takes off! – 9 – 18 March 2013
Hmm yes, we were very close to our flight across the ocean, back to Europe. As we were laying on the deserted beach in the South of Brazil we found it very hard to think of that flight.
Come on, wake up! Stand up the wet sand and…. hmm, let´s just lay here for a while. I realize now that we didn´t have a deadline for months. No specific destination, no exact time to be in one place. And now, in 3 days, on Thursday, we have to be back in Buenos Aires to drop Gunnar off at the airport.
Then we have to find a way and get to Sao Paolo until Monday (3 more days) where we are supposed to board our Lufthansa plane that we bought tickets for some time ago.
And that´s a deadline we don´t want to skip. We already changed our flight date from 4th of February to 18th of March. Let´s try to make it. I am surprised of how calm I am thinking of all these as in the remaining days we have to cross a country (Uruguay), around 3 frontiers (2 by motorcycle), once we get to Buenos Aires, export the motorcycle out of Argentina to Europe and arrange transportation then find a way for us to get to Sao Paolo. Simple… We had a plan but we weren´t the only ones involved, it was not only up to is to succeed, we could only pray not to get any unpredictable situations.
Come on… we have to go now. Say “goodbye” to our hosts, actually our friends in Hermenegildo. Will we ever see each other again?
Uruguay border city, Chuy, is only 5 kilometers South. I am heading for the border control building as Andreea is laying in the sun for the morning sunbath. As I am walking towards the building I realize that Uruguay is the last (new) country of this journey. We counted 18 ever since we started this journey in Canada and for sure more than we dreamt of a year ago when we were planning all this.
Unfortunately we didn´t have too much time to explore Uruguay. We only had two or three days according to how soon we wanted to get to Buenos Aires. We were sorry we couldn´t stay longer, from what we saw from the motorcycle Uruguay has some beautiful places that we really wanted to explore and we heard the people and traditions are wonderful also. And the space is vast. This country has only 3 million inhabitants. There are 7 cows per inhabitant.
On the other side, the Oriental Republic of Uruguay (its full name) turns out to be very expensive. At least for our budget. So we decide not no stop until we get to Montevideo where we had no idea what to see or do but we did wanted to go out for a walk. So we do a bit of Google research where Andreea finds an article on the old city centre, the port and a fish market. Fine, let´s go! We ask the man at the reception for a map of the city and (just to make sure) we tell him our plan convinced that we planned it very well. Well, apparently we didn´t, our guy crosses out on the map the area we wanted to visit: “no no, don’t go there, it is not safe”, suggesting us a few posh neighborhoods instead. Oh, come on, we´ve visited so many places without being afraid of what might happen and now, in Montevideo we are not we are no safe? How bad can it be? It´s still daylight, there are people on the streets… let´s stick to our plan. And we go!
After a while we notice that the streets are empty and things are not that interesting. Broken windows, dirty walls…. At least the graffiti is interesting.
It looked like Bucharest´s old city center before being renovated. We take one more picture and decide to put the camera in our backpack.
We found the fish market but it was closed when we got there so we look for another spot, we reach the bay (actually, this is not the ocean but Rio de la Plata´s estuary).
We leave Montevideo the second day and manage to get lost, we reach a railroad and a pedestrian crossing so it takes us more time to escape the city traffic.
We arrived safe in Buenos Aires, nothing to talk about in particular. Except the noisy parrots we couldn´t take our eyes off for half an hour as we were having dinner at a gas station in the light of the sunset.
It´s late when we get into the city and we book a room for the night at HolidayInn, using the last points I had from my corporate days. It was better like this, we were closer to the airport.
Ah, luxury again! For us luxury means clean sheets, private bathroom, windows and…. HOT WATER. And not just hot water for taking a quick shower but hot water for a big bubbly bath. Romantic stuff. Of course, this is not our approach, we have other plans with this bath tub. It´s time to do some washing, our T-shirts are waiting for this moment for some time now.
And since we were getting closer to shipping Gunnar we decide to make it more presentable. We didn´t wash it since Chile and it got pretty dirty. Not anymore, these guys made sure Gunnar will pass the German inspection in Europe
We use the extra bed in our room to separate our clothes and decide what to send with Gunnar and what to keep with us. We realize that all we have fits one camera shot. It´s amazing how little things you need in a journey. This is what we had with us for 9 months. And I am sure some of you will say we had too much stuff.
We go alone to the airport, straight to the cargo terminal.When I was doing my homework on how to send my motorcycle back to Europe I came across 2 possibilities: use a intermediary company (famous in Buenos Aires for facilitating the shipping of motorcycles) or try to do it ourselves personally getting in contact with the company that was making the shipment (Lufthansa).
We chose the second option mainly because it was cheaper without intermediaries and the second party company was rigid and inflexible. Our only regret for not choosing the intermediaries was that they would have sent a man at the airport guiding us through the airport/ customs procedures.
So there we are, just the two of us, at the airport, no intermediaries, no fixers, finding our way to Lufthansa cargo terminal trying to figure out the export and turn over procedure by ourselves. No worries. We can ask around. We found our way from Canada to Argentina. We should be able to find our way in the cargo terminal too. Gunnar is still the center of attention, even in the airport parking lot.
After knocking on a few wrong doors I manage to find the Lufthansa cargo terminal and I am welcomed by some very polite people that hand me some documents to fill in and some confirmations. After a few minutes I am back at my motorcycle with the shipping papers ready! Uhuuu!
Now all we have to do is take Gunnar to the hangar and start packing it for the road. We were supposed to take all the luggage off, put it on a wooden pallet and wait for the terminal employees to secure it.
There are two more guys next to us shipping their motorcycles home but they contacted the intermediary company that we decided not to use. They came here earlier and, helped by the guide, they managed to speed thing up a little bit. We we got in the hangar, they had the wheels out of the motorcycles and preparing to measure and see how to make the package smaller (for a smaller price).
On the other side, we had a fixed price based on weight. So the price would be the same as long as our package was under 500 kg, no matter the volume. We still want to make sure and ask our Lufthansa guy that came with us in the hangar: “are you sure we don´t have to take anything off the motorcycle to make the volume smaller? we did that when we flew here.” He tells us not to worry. “You can take the windshield off, just as a precaution, not to break.” “Yes, but we see the others struggling to take the wheel off and stuff, are you sure we can leave all these?” “Yes, sure! They don´t fly with Lufthansa, you do”… concludes with pride in his voice our guy from Lufthansa. With the moto all packed up, it was time to weight it. So here it is: motorcycle+gear+luggage.
A little bit on the heavy side I would say. But still well under the upper limit of 500 kg! Well, we are ready. Good bye Gunnar, see you in Germany!
We get out of the cargo hall and even though we were just in sandals and tshirts, somehow I was feeling a heavy hearten. I figure that for the last 9 months, we got used to be around the motorcycle. Or to have it around us. In cold or in scorching heat, in the mountains or in the deserts, day and night, well in good times and sometimes less than good, this motorcycle remained reliable and took us everywhere. So maybe it was undertandable why right now I was feeling a little bit strange, a little bit off, without it. And it was a feeling that would dissapear only when we will find it again, in Europe. But until then, we had more pressing issues: to find a way to get to Sao Paolo, some 2500 kilometers North from here.
Of course, hitchhiking was not an option, as we had little time. But we found a reasonable flight and soon enough, next day we are greeted by Jake in Sao Paolo. This guy was awesome! Coming for us at 2 AM in the night at the airport and then keeping us safe in a not so safe city… We even meet with Phillip one last time in this journey. He was coming from Rio and still had a month until his departure. Thanks to Jake and his family, we had some very nice times in Sao Paolo, with warm but rainy days, jokes and good times. It was like springtime was moving from Europe to South America. Little that we knew at that time how much we would be missing the spring in just a few days.
Time flies fast and suddenly, too soon and too unexpected we find ourselves on the gate that leads us to the plane. This is it! Good bye Americas! Thank you for everything, but more than anything else, thank you for the people we had the chance to meet here!
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And then, we were back home...

The New World V.9 – The end!


By: AlexMD On May 9, 2013 in Part V, The New World





The end! 19 – 24 March 2013
I didn´t use the plane very often, at least not on long distances, but I did enjoyed it every time. And on such flights, like the one I was on, there comes a moment, usually at night, when it´s all quiet. Flight attendants stop pushing the food carts, passengers stop wandering back and forth, oh, even the children (there are always children in the plane) are quiet now. You are in between dream and reality with the monotonous sound of the turbines counting your way to the land of dreams. Before falling asleep, all cramped in my economy class chair, I start thinking about where we´ve started this journey and where we go back to. This plane is not an Airbus, it´s the Summer Night´s plane, our summer lasted 8 months and a half. I pull on the blanket (why do all these flights have the AC on max all the time) with a big smile on my face and I fall asleep.
I know what´s the deal with the AC. At least for this flight I do, the captain wanted to prepare us for the weather in Europe for end of March. We barely take a few steps down the gate corridor in Munich airport and both decide we want to go back. The weather here is not very inviting, sleet and cold. We look at all the people coming out of the plane with warm jackets, boots and hats. We have sandals and summer trousers, all the warm clothes are on the motorcycle and Gunnar is in the cargo terminal that´s not even in this airport terminal, we need to take the subway there. We make our way out of the airport trying to mingle with the “locals” but that is pretty hard to do when we look like we are still stuck in another story, the one we left behind in South America. We managed not to turn into ice statues before reaching Lufthansa Cargo where we got warm instantly hearing that Gunnar is there.

Lufthansa cargo employees and the customs officials made our day, we can only say good things about them. They were very efficient, did their job very professional and after less than one hour we were all reunited (including the warm clothes we left on the pallet, remember we could put all we wanted as long as we kept it to 500 kg).
We start unpacking, put on some (all) the warm clothes and get ready to fix the windshield and mirrors back on the motorcycle (the only things we took off from the motorcycle in Argentina) after this we are ready to go. Time for a surprise, though, the tool box is missing. We´ve been on the motorcycle for such a long time and through so many countries and nothing happened so far. We keep thinking when this could have happened. We knew for sure we had the tools in cargo terminal in Buenos Aires because I used them to take down the mirrors and the windshield and I put them back in my toolbox. Now the toolbox is not properly closed. So it is clear that it happened somewhere between Argentina and Germany… our tools took off. There are good people and bad people everywhere. It´s never OK for this to happen but I cannot be mad right now. We stay calm and think of a solution. Lufthansa people show us another proof of professionalism and provide us with some tools to finish our job and be on our way. Time to do some mileage in Europe!
OK now. We are in Munich, that´s around 2000 kilometers to Bucharest and 6 days to do it. Pretty easy, right? But what about the weather? I never checked the weather websites in this whole journey as I did these days. Although it spring was supposed to rule all over Europe the battle with winter was a tough one this year. It was cold and even snowing in some regions. We were still running under the rules of Latin America and reserved one full day for taking the motorcycle out of customs. We are not there anymore, all the formalities took us less that an hour (excellent efficiency), it was lunch time so we decided to take advantage of the dry weather and head for Passau.
Weather is good, this means it´s not raining, it´s still cold, so cold! The worst part for me was that I didn´t have a rain/ wind jacket anymore, I left it in Buenos Aires, it was thorn out anyway. I was now “fully enjoying” my “wonderful” “adventure” jacket that offered me absolutely no protection from the cold wind. And soon, it wasn´t just the wind…
After a few kilometers the landscape changes again. Hmmm, there is snow by the side of the road and the road is wet. I wonder how cold is it? I hope not enough for the road to freeze.
As we get to Passau we go straight to the motorcycle store to buy a rain/ wind jacket for me and a windbreaker for Andreea. Eh, we feel better now. Don´t know how strong the wind will be but at least I will be flashy and everyone can see me on the road.
We put on an extra pair of socks and start looking for a McDonald’s to get online and see what to do next. Did I mention we were the only ones traveling by motorcycle? We were the main attraction. There is WiFi at McDonald’s but you need a local phone number to access it. Ya right! We do find a nice gentlemen (of course) sympathizing with us: “If I were you, I would try to be in Hungary tomorrow afternoon. There is a snow front moving from West to East behind you. Right now it is snowing in Frankfurt. And it is coming this way”. Excellent, it´s 5 pm, we can still do so mileage. Let´s go! We soon pass the area with fresh snow and get to a dry and green place. Joy!
Oh, Europe, you are so beautiful! We can see the Alps in the distance, we would have enjoyed traveling a bit closer to them but not on this weather. We were forced to stick to the plains and to the highways. At one point we get really tired. We got off after 10 hours flight where we didn´t sleep to much and we weren´t that comfortable than we got on the motorcycle and rode for plenty of hours in constant cold. We decide to stop somewhere in a gas station. Give Gunnar some food and some coffee for us. Energy boost!
We manage to reach Vienna by the end of the day where it got dark and we got lost trying to follow the GPS to the hotel where we were supposed to use up our last fidelity points. At least the sky was clear.
It was one of those days when it´s not romantic riding a motorcycle but it´s not boring. I was thinking that by car this would have been an ordinary day. Few hours on the highway, some snow, very cold all the time. So what? I´m in the car, can´t feel a thing. But it is way different on two wheels, it´s not at all boring ….
We get the confirmation the second day that snow is behind us so we decide not to waste any time in Austria or Hungary and try to get from Vienna to Timisoara in one day. It was highway the whole day, not much to show, not much to talk about. We greet the Danube and ride on.
The day was quite uneventful and we had time to notice details, small things. For instance, as we were coming towards Romania through Hungary we noticed that there are no road signs indicating the route to Romania which was directly ahead. There are signs confirming the routes to Serbia, Slovakia and even Ukraine (more out of the way) . No one showing which way to Romania, though. Only as we get close to Szeget we see a sign and we get the confirmation that there is another country out there.
Oh well, each to its own. We follow our path and reach the Romanian border sooner than we thought. We cross this line and we are home!
All of us getting home, getting to your own country from “somewhere” have this feeling. No matter the cold, the exhaustion, nothing else matters, you are home!
The friends in Timisoara make us feel more at home. Klaus insists to come greet us on his motorcycle and that´s how we “bravely” enter Timisoara.
We put both our motorcycles in the garage (I suppose they have plenty of things to talk about) and go inside where we find Ioana, Klaus´wonderful wife waiting for us with polenta and cheese and bacon (traditional Romanian food). No doubts about it, we are home. Bofanu´comes to meet us also, an old friend who offered us his house for the night and makes it hard for us to leave Timisoara. We do have to leave the next day, taking advantage of the no snow “window”. Klaus rides with us for a few kilometers feeling sorry he cannot ride longer. We say goodbye next to a fresh water fountain. Let´s meet again soon!
First full day traveling through Romania after so long. We were enjoying every step of the way. The good or patched roads that always makes you wonder what´s after the next curve.
Peaceful people and secular traditions. It´s spring time and the flocks are out enjoying the fresh grass.
Simple things that have a soul. It is cold so grandpa still makes the fire.
Even the police surprises us. They were lurking behind a curve in an non-urban area and catch us speeding a little but forgive us eventually and wish us safe trip.
We arrive in the night in Sibiu where Tija is waiting for us with a warm place to sleep, home made bread and other Romanian food. I have to be careful how much I eat, with all this hospitality all over the place I might gain more kilos than I lost on this trip.
The next day was the time to meet our families in Paltinis, a mountain resort high in the mountains. We decide to leave the motorcycle at Tija´s place in Sibiu and go with our parents´car to Paltinis. Oh, what a good decision. Welcome to the winter wonderland. We tried to run away from it for 8 and a half months but not it caught us.
We get clear sky on Sunday so we can head for Bucharest. At Turnu Rosu Pass we are greeted by the Fagaras Mountains with their lofty snowy peaks above the clouds.
We slowly leave Transilvania region behind entering Muntenia region of Romania and there we are warmly welcomed by Valcea county’s graffiti …, bells ringing from Cozia monastery (Sunday sermon) and home made cookies in Ramnicu Valcea from Bogdan and Daniela.
We team up in Ramnicu Valcea for Bucharest. Andreea and I freezing on the motorcycle, Bogdan and Daniela nice and warm in their car (they are motocyclists also but sane ones). I don´t know how far is it over Dealul Negru (Black Hill) to Pitesti and then A1 highway to Bucharest but I do remember that being a long road for us. I remember I was shivering so hard that my motorcycle was doing the same thing on the street, must have been funny for the ones behind us, not for us anyway. Eventually we reach Bucharest. It wasn´t the first time we used that entrance in the city but it was the first time we stopped at the sign. We felt we should congratulate each other for reaching Bucharest, for getting back to Bucharest!
Picture taken with the Bucharest sign: checked. Next stop: hot shower at home. So goodbye Daniela, goodbye Bogdan, the shower awaits! Wait, it is not that easy. Bogdan asks us to follow them a bit longer. Hmmm… fine. What do they want from us? I hope they take us somewhere warm. And we got more warmth than we ever hoped for. I don´t know how they managed to pull this through, I still didn´t find out who started it, who coordinated it, all I know is that I saw all of them waving and smiling at us and I forgot about cold, wind, hot shower, hmm, I even forgot my words. Same thing first and second time. Luckily I had my helmet on so I gained some time to gather myself until I took it off.
With your willing, our story Across Americas will end here. For us it was an adventure that surpassed our most daring dreams. Thank you for coming along with us!
Foto: Eugen Neacsu
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Old 15 May 2013
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The New World V.10 – Statistics!



By: AlexMD On May 14, 2013 in Blog, Part V, The New World



From time to time I get some “technical” questions about our trip. How many kilometers, how many days, how many problems and so on (yap, the question about money came up also). So, I thought I should put together some broad “statistics”. My purpose is not to give exact figures (they would never be of any help to anyone) but general ideas that might be useful for a future planning of a similar trip.
I. The route:

  • 18 countries
  • 3 continents
  • ~57 000 kilometers
  • ~285 days on the road

This trip can be done in less time and we could have done it but we already felt like we were in a hurry. We would have wanted to have more time, to slow down even more in some areas. This kind of trip can be a continuous “struggle” between the desire to spend more time in an inviting place and the calling to get back on the road, to discover what’s after the next curve, to meet more people and see more places.
II. About the motorcycle:
  • Although I was not the first owner, it gained our trust completely with its ability to function without any problems
  • Consumables we changed along the way:
    • 10 oil filters
    • 2 air filters
    • 29 liters of oil
    • 3 front tires, 5 rear tires (due to some unforeseen event)
    • 1 low beam light bulb
    • 2 front sprockets, 2 rear sprockets
    • 4 chains (1 Non O-Ring, the only kind we could find in Patagonia)

No major technical issue. The only problems we had were independent of the motorcycle, there were collateral: one ugly flat tire in Mexico and unexpected tire wear out in Patagonia.
Mileage: between 4,2 liters/100 km and 5,4 liters/100 km.
[/list]

I am not experienced with motorcycles. I only had one before Gunnar and rode a few others for a short while. But as far as I noticed the VStrom was the best choice for us given the type of travel we had. Big enough for traveling with a passenger and luggage but small enough to fit some places we would have find it harder to get to otherwise. The mileage was decent most of the times, around 4,5 liters/100 km and the engine never complained about the type of gas we used (we had some cases when we weren’t sure about the type of gas we fed to Gunnar).
And the most important thing of all: the motorcycle never broke down. Never. Nothing happened. We made sure we did the oil change and other consumables on time and that’s all we did. It started each morning without problems. And it took us back home safe and sound.
And I hope I will never have to sell it and it will take us without problems to other great places onwards.
III. What about money?
Well, that is pretty easy: we started this trip without material help from anyone and Andreea and I decided to travel as long as we are enjoying it and money allows it.
We didn’t make a sum up but we tried to stick to 50$ per day. This means gas, food, accommodation and others.
There were days when we spent more (a lot more) and others when we spent less. All in all I think we got pretty close to 50$/day.

Stepping aside from the money matter I would like to state that we would never have gotten so far without the help of our friends who stood by us along the way. Friends in Romania who helped us with different items (sleeping pads, primus, and others) and moral support and wonderful people we’ve met along the way, who started by hosting us and ended up as friends. We might not have had money sponsorship for this trip but as it were it was really better like that, it’s hard to find real friends if you stay in 5 stars hotel.
That’s it for now. If I forget something, leave a comment.
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Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




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