No way Big John! You're not showing off, showing away or anything else like that.

What you are doing is inspiring the rest of us to do our Big Trip - and any other trip - and a timely reminder to do it NOW!

I passed up an invitation to hook up with a couple of guys on their way to Morocco a few weeks ago - but did decide to go next spring after getting exited about the idea - until yesterday and a trip to the dentist: it's either €5,000 now or a mumbling toothless crone in a few years time ... so that's Morocco out for at least a year and the Big Trip f*** knows when!

Back in the late 'seventies a very wise person said to me, "Go - Now!" What a fool I was ...

So, everyone - Go - Now!

Regs

Simon
PS Polly and I are also glad to hear that you're still alive!

__________________
The Spanish Biker - the invaluable guide to motorcycling in Spain.

The Spanish Biker LLP: Events, Guide and Support Services

John, you just do your updates when it suits you, as the trip is the thing, not the writing. It can be a real pain to keep doing updates, when you should be chilling and having a few s in the evening.

I loved your thoughts on riding versus staying longer in a place. I mostly just stay one night and ride on the next day. When I do stay more than a day, I look longingly at the bike in the morning and wish I was on the move again. You seemed to capture the essence of the excitement of adventure biking in that paragraph. I could never describe it so well.

Great write up and pictures of Bolivia (or where ever it was). Keep it up, when the trip allows.

Look forward to that sometime in Hampshire if you ever feel like coming back here.

Cheers

So Peru. A place of mixed feelings for me. As I have been going north it is noticeable the people are more friendly, Bolivia was great and Peru followed suit. It also had the big open spaces of the desert, that for me is a draw and always makes me feel good. There is nothing better than riding across huge open scenery. Something that really helps to put perspective on just how small we really are.

I took to the mountains to get to Machu Picchu by the back door. Way better than the standard route. Backpackers................Hmmmm.............The North Face uniform..........Hmmmm............ Hahahahaha. Anyway Machu Picchu was cool, but to be honest the trip to get there was cooler. Big mountain roads, finally a bit of gravel and dealing with real people to sort things out.

The ride up through the rest of the country was great. I followed the Pan American highway and just took it easy. Big road, big scenery and easy riding. Nazca is a place I wanted to see. All the mumbo jumbo over the lines. Has it never occurred to anyone they might just have been done for a laugh! You know big party, guys wake up hung over going "Hey who drew the Humming Bird? that's cool." Just something to do in the desert after a few jars. I took the plane flight, fantastic way to see it all and well worth it.

Unfortunately Peru has the worst drivers of anywhere I have ever been. The big trucks are great but the coaches and the cars are just appalling. That and the huge amount of litter everywhere got on my nerves in the end. So great place but it was good to push on into Ecuador.

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So you're still with us looking good mate and i'm with you on wide open spaces with no one around ride safe and take more fecking pics

Hola ZD
Ive only skimmed thru your travels here but was curious if you have hooked up with any other ADV kin folk along the way ?
And how have the border crossings been for ya?

Cheers compadre

JOHN .....................I'M SICK OF WAITING !!!!!! WHERE THE FECK ARE YOU

Ahhh........ er....... not Peru! Phil I have an idea. You have a word with the powers that be and we just do this together. That way I will not feel so bad about being utterly useless at the update, internet stuff.
Life's good, it seems to get in the way of telling people how good it is! Hahahahahahaha.

I will over the next couple of days get the camera downloaded and bring this wayward tale up to date. For now I will answer the border crossing stuff.

To date I have, I think gone through around twenty five countries. Some I have only been in for a couple of days, some a whole lot longer. I have only once used a fixer, that was the story at the start of this thread. There was one other border where I crossed with another traveller. It was a little chaotic there but still no worse than any African border.

In the experiences I have had I would say fixers are not needed. Sure if you want to go that way they are there and in a lot of cases are very useful. But it is a door that swings both ways. In corrupt countries the fixers may well be tied in with the corruption and as such you merely exchange one type of inconvenience for another. Homework prior to the border is in my opinion the best option. Also using smaller less travelled borders worked well for me. There is more chance of genuine interest in you and your story and as a result a greater degree of help.

Culture is also a big part of it. I made a huge mistake at one border because I wrongly assumed they were trying to rip me off in a way I was used to from another continent. I very nearly didn't get through and to be honest if I wasn't with another traveller I probably would have been turned back. I should have known better and should have approached it differently.

Borders are stressful there is no doubt about it. But they don't need to be. Preparation and approach are key.


Pictures will follow..............

Just checking you're alive mate

Still alive and kicking! And still whizzing about on a motorcycle. Cool isn't it. I am a very lucky chap! Hahahahaha.

So I am going to bring this folly right up to date. It has gone wayward and for that I apologise. I blame the weather, it rained!


Ok After Peru it went a bit quick. I decided I wanted a break and hammered it through both Ecuador and Columbia to Cartagena. Once there I managed to nearly drop the bike on my foot and I think broke something in there. I ended up with a rest, like it or not! Both Columbia and Ecuador were great riding. My tyres were way past their best and I pushed them just enjoying the roads. Big views, big trucks and fantastic fun. I did yet another oil change in some hotel car park and just kept riding. Cartagena is straight out of Pirates Of The Caribbean. But and it is a big but, very seedy. To be honest walking around it especially at night was a pain. I know there are certain types of tourist out there but I am not one of them. I didn't like the place much. Huge history but dirty both literally and metaphorically.

Oh and I had my worst police bribe attempt yet! When you type into google translate on a coppers phone " so you just want a bribe then " and he types back " yes " you know it has turned to farce. Pathetic! And no I didn't give them any money.

From Columbia I chose the Stahlratte as my means to get to Panama. I did a bit of homework and Ludwigs boat always came out top dog. It seemed that any other way whilst providing that great adventure tale had too many flaws. Mostly money orientated, with exact costs not being able to pin down. I have been through all this before, I don't need to be held to ransom over charges with the bike as collateral. The Stahlratte was a known system and turned out to be a great choice. If I go back there I will use them again, no question.

On the boat there were just four travellers. All lone motorcyclists and not a blinged up beemer amongst us! I think we were a bit of fresh air for the crew, we were certainly not their normal group. No airs and graces, no egos and no worries. It was a great few days and if you ever wanted to see the chocolate box Caribbean Islands the San Blas is it. Truly astonishing!

The four of us on the boat teamed up for the ride and associated customs antics in Panama. So myself. Randall, KLR and ex military. Tommy, KTM and nuts. Brad, something bought in Columbia and a surfboard all hit the road. I ran out of petrol and it rained. Did I mention the $%^&^%$£%ing rain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And a confession. The only tyres I could get in Cartagena were road tyres. I know......... a sad, sad day.........my first pair of road tyres ever on the big katoom......I feel dirty........ great on the road.............. but not so on the gravel...........can you guess yet...................

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Great to hear more from you Big John.

OK, my guess is that your whiling away some time in hospital after going for some stunts on the gravel!

Regs

Simon

__________________
The Spanish Biker - the invaluable guide to motorcycling in Spain.

The Spanish Biker LLP: Events, Guide and Support Services

Central America and rain! Lots and lots of rain! Well the four of us left the boat and if we could have seen the views I am sure we would have enjoyed them. We took on the usual travellers games of hunt the customs office and then the do we don't we get all the legal stuff.................

After that we all bombed it into Panama city. An amazing place! especially the ride in at night. All Hollywood skyscrapers and waterfront. It was a huge shock after South America. The city was a laugh and our night out was............ interesting, with me being the main cause of laughter. And no I will not explain. You need Tommy and Brad to talk. I will just say it was fast food and fast women with no knickers! Hahahahahahahaha. But I promise not what you are all thinking.

We parted company in Panama. I did something I haven't done since the start of this trip. I rode with someone else for a while. Randall was heading to Ometepe and I joined in. I relaxed a lot and went with the flow. Randall I am sure will not mind me saying is a great bloke! I had a very good time in his company and I hope very much to meet him again. I meet a lot of people travelling and Randall is without a doubt someone I could do great distances with. We rode the same style and travelled well together. His taking me to Ometepe is the highlight of Central America.

The Island is beautiful. Two volcanoes and a chilled out atmosphere. Get there before lonely planet ruin it. I spent I think a week there. I like island life, I am used to it. If I didn't have the reason to move on then like Randall I would stay there.

But the rain! Wow did it rain a lot. We were soaked most days with huge, heavy downpours until we got to Ometepe. Central America is all small countries and border crossings. With the weather and my wish to get to the USA it just became a place to get through. A place that is wonderful but I prefer deserts and open spaces. As I rode up through Mexico the horizons retreated and the heat was back. I felt more and more at home the further north I rode. Strange really, I have no home. It's great.

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Hello Simon. Well no hospital but a dropped bike. I haven't done it for ages. I was just playing, spinning the back up and pushing the front, then bang. Down I go. Damned tyres are dangerous...... shouldn't be allowed.....could get a guy into trouble out in the desert! Hahahahaha.

On the plus side the bent handlebars on the right now match the bent handlebars on the left!

What i give to get wet ..............................THERE !!!! good on ya John , great pics and teaser writing !!!
Ride safe mate

Well..
how do big fella...

happy christams to you and the mighty katoom

dont get on here much but follow your wanderlust with envy....yep we are back out to france for chrimbo in the camper...

Still got the ccm644 and its going fine for a change and hope to see the "french idiot" in spring so keep the mudd under them wheels and dont do owt daft..

Hello Russ. Good to hear about the camper. I have been looking at the ones here with envy. I am seriously wondering about the possibility of getting one in the long term. I was with an Englishman who lives in Canada but winters in Arizona. As far as I could make out a perfect lifestyle. I am very envious of his position and whilst I in no way want to wish my life away I could see that in my future.

You didn't make the jump to the big KTM then? You know mate the CCM is a good bike. In many ways the KTM is no better. They both have issues and are an enthusiasts machine, not run of the mill.

Take care out in the sticks and watch over the crazy man! Hahahahaha.