Thanks you two. I really enjoy reading about your adventure

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My travel blog: http://rooson2wheels.blogspot.com

No problem! We like writing it up! Always good to know someone is reading our ramblings though!

T - Today it was back to La Paz. We had booked our ferry ride, all 15 odd hours of it, for Thursday. So we figured on a nice easy ride back to the city and then a day relaxing in a hotel. Rooms are cheap enough here that we can build the cost into our budget. Although we will plan to keep camping as much as possible.

Chantelle had found us a place to stay right in downtown La Paz just a few streets back from the waterfront for $36 for the two nights. Cheap!

C – I am excited to spend some time exploring La Paz. And the hotel has surprisingly good reviews for such a cheap hotel. Fingers crossed!!!

The air was hot and sticky as we packed up the bikes and got excited about our free breakfast. We munched on really yummy muesli, fresh fruit, yoghurt, eggs and chorizo, and of course, beans.

It was very obvious it was going to be a warm ride, and from what a local guy had told us, the ride back to La Paz via Todos Santos was a boring ride through desert. Thankfully it was only about 170km, so not far.



After getting our girls a nice drink of fuel, we rode out onto Mexico 19. Once out of Cabo San Lucas, I was surprised at the view. The air got noticeably cooler as the road curved its way along the coast. We could spy millions (ok, maybe thats an exaggeration) of expensive looking yachts and power boats out on the water, cruising back and forth. They all looked like they were going and coming from the same place. It did look like a lovely day on the water!!!

We stopped in at Todos Santos, about half way, for a little break in the shade of a tree. I do love a good people watching session and we were provided entertainment by a couple of guys trying to hitchhike. It looked as though they would have no luck here!! A friendly gentleman tried to engage us in conversation, but my very limited espanol and his non-existent english it wasn’t meant to be.



I am missing the interactions with locals and curse myself for not putting in more effort to learn espanol before coming here. I get so much out of interacting with locals and its disappointing to miss out on that. I am determined to do a course whilst we are here, and have found one in Guatamala that has fantastic reviews. So... until then we will stumble though! I try to learn one new word each day that I can use in everyday sentence.

T - The ride out of Cabo and back to La Paz was pretty uneventful. We just followed a dual lane highway all the way back. The closer we got to La Paz the hotter the air got. So we stopped in a small town and sat in the shade of a beautiful big tree and watched the world rumble on by. Big lorries screamed by, spewing forth large plumes of thick sooty smoke, cars missing mufflers and sometimes missing whole front ends raced by, loaded with laughing smiling people. We were joined on our bench by an elderly gentleman who asked us where we were going and pointed out a nice hotel just nearby if we wanted.

We had a good rest and then carried on with the last 70 km’s of our ride. By the time we rode into La Paz I was sweating buckets and the heat radiating up off of Mabel and the road was intense! I was looking forward to collapsing into the Air conditioned room of our hotel for sure!

After getting a little lost in the downtown area and riding in a circle we soon found the hidden entry to the hotel. It was so pretty. The wrought iron gates opening into a gorgeous little courtyard full of green plants. The guy who checked us in told us to bring our bikes straight inside and park them where they would be safe. We turned up the air con and then I jumped in and had a nice cool shower. I was definitely overheating today.

Then we had a wander of the nearby streets and went in search of cold drinks. The water front area was stunning. The water so clear that we could see fish skipping around. Very pretty.



C – I was super impressed with the La Paz malecon (waterfront area). Beautiful statues, lovely clear water and even palapas providing shade on the beach areas. It was one of the nicest waterfronts I have seen anywhere. Simple yet beautiful and useable. It would certainly add to the liveability of La Paz. I made Todd purchase an icecream so we could enjoy the view a little longer, by taking a seat at the stall, which had ample shade and a cool breeze blowing through. We sat a while so I could immerse myself in the view and Todd could immerse himself in a double scoop cookies n crème icecream! I am sure Todd was disappointed in having to take one for the team on this occasion!







T - Then it was time to head off for dinner. We found a taco stand just near our hotel which served us up two amazing tacos de carne asada! Best beef tacos we have had yet. I will be going back there tomorrow night for dinner too!

After that we went back to our room where we laid on our beds and surfed the web for a while before watching a couple of episodes of Everybody Loves Raymond.

Tomorrow we shall have a lazy day. We want to go for a wander in the morning and will retreat back to our room when it gets warm for a few hours. Not long left on the Baja now. We are both looking forward to experiencing mainland Mexico! Heres a snapshot of our Baja trip.

For some reason ? I always thought the brand Tecate was advertising for a fuel company
That, or you've got a drinking problem
Enjoying the report as always guys

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My memory is becoming that good, I should be able to organise my own surprise party soon

Its damn good, and cheap, !!!

I did the La Paz to Mazatlan ferry ride 25 years ago , looking forward to hearing about what it is like now .

It was pretty dam smooth sailing! More on that one soon!

T - We both crashed out in bed last night. It was a warm day yesterday and the heat seemed to have sapped the last of our strength by the time we switched out the lights. I managed to sleep the whole night through which for me is a rarity.

Bushy tailed and bright eyed we strode from our room and down towards the waterfront. We were keen to sit down there somewhere for breakfast and just watch the world go by. As we strolled along the water we checked out some of the menus of the little cafes that dotted the roadside. Too pricey here, too western there, way too pricey there. Finally we gave in and just picked one at random and sat down without even looking at the menu.



C – The malecon (waterfront) in La Paz is really lovely and it was so nice just walking along, watching the world go by. We knew everything would be pricier down here, but the draw of the water was too much for us to avoid! Soon though, it was our tummies telling us it was time to eat, now please!





T - We decided that we would just have whatever was available and be done, otherwise we knew that in 10 blocks time we still wouldn’t have found something. We ended having a ham and cheese croissant. Which was nice, but after waiting just over an hour for it to arrive I was a little miffed and wished we had of just gone to the local market instead! Oh well!

C – It was a bit of hungry, painful wait for our breakfast, but still, we had a super lovely view of the water and it was interesting listening in on conversations I had no hope of ever understanding. So instead, I just made it up.... I am sure the group of men next to us were plotting some drug cartel warlord overthrow.....

T - After a feed we went in search of a coffee for Chantelle. We found another very quaint little cafe tucked away down a little alley. Chantelle bought herself a cappuccino and I had a very tasty hot chocolate. Nom nom!



We wandered back slowly towards our room as the heat of the day started to climb. Boy was it going to be a warm one today! We strolled through a cool little market selling fresh fish and meat plus some stunningly made leather gear. I wanted to buy Chantelle a nice belt but then I let her talk me out of it. I would have also liked to have bought myself one of the cowboy hats on display. They were only $15 and I’m sure I could have strapped it to Mabel somehow!

C – The market was a feast for the senses!!! It was bright, colourful, stinking like fish and meat, sweaty and hot as we wandered through, trying to be polite to the vendors who were talking at us quickly in Spanish!

T - From there we went back to our room to hide in the aircon while the city baked away quietly. By mid afternoon Chantelle had started to turn a little green looking and rumblings and pains from her tummy told us that she had a little bit of Baja Belly coming on! Oh no!!!





We stayed in the room right up until dinner time that night which ended up of a hastily bought bag of chips and a small cake. Chantelle had to run back to our room where she alternated between groaning in agony on the toilet or groaning in agony on the bed. And I must say, the walls in our room weren’t exactly thick and I could hear every nasty thing going on.

C – At first I thought, oh... upset tummy. It will be fine. But alas, as the day wore on, the worse I felt. It was unpleasant, but I knew it wasn’t anything more sinister than some travellers belly. It wasn’t too pleasant for me, or Todd! Todd managed to eat his chips and cake for dinner though, whilst I stuck my head down the toilet.

T - We put it down to the coffee this morning as we figure the water possibly wasn’t boiled totally. Lesson learned! We shall make our own coffee from our bottled water from now on! We accept that on this trip, or most other trips to foreign places for that matter, that we will at some point suffer from upset tummys.

C – I am usually very careful of coffee and tea, as in Asia this is the predominant reason people get sick there when travelling. The water never boils, especially a barista made coffee. Oh well, the coffee tasted good. Although I think, just maybe, my addiction to coffee may be in remission!

T - So it was off to bed early. If Chantelle is still unwell tomorrow morning I shall go to the Chemist and get her some drugs!

We have a ferry to catch tomorrow evening but we may have to change our plans on that one. I am excited to get to mainland Mexico but I am not sure that travelling on a boat for 12 hours or more with a sick tummy would be a nice thing for Chantelle.

T - Chantelle had to get up several times in the night and do the mad rush to the toilet. 20 times in fact! Not good! So as soon as the chemist opened its shutters I was inside and buying some Imodium pills. Chantelle couldn’t move and we contemplated staying here until the next ferry to Mazatlan, which was on Sunday.

C – I woke up feeling somewhat better, but not really better. I was appreciative of the fact that our hotel room had two beds as I asked Todd to sleep in the other one. It meant he could have a somewhat more restful sleep. Todd went to the pharmacy and came back with Imodium, which is obviously very helpful, but I knew this would only treat the symptoms, not the cause. I figured I could get something for bacterial infection a bit later.



T - We ummed and ahhed for a few hours until our checkout time came. At which point we thought we might try for the ferry after all. First we had a few things to do in town and as Chantelle was feeling quite hungry, a good sign, we headed of to find her some nice safe food. In this case she was craving some Maccas fries all covered in salt.

We scoffed some food there and headed off to Walmart to pick up some last minute items. We needed some new GO Pro stickies for our helmets plus some basic food stuffs to eat on the ferry. About 2 minutes after we left Maccas Chantelle started feeling very unwell again. So she rested in Walmarts aircon while I went and found the stuff we needed.



C – I was really, really feeling like salty, salty Maccas fries... perhaps it was too soon though!!! The fries certainly perked me up a bit, after not eating for over 24hrs.

T - By the time I had done the little bit of shopping Chantelle had taken a turn for the worse. We decided to see the chemist in Walmart to see if they had something else that might help the gut infection that she was battling. Armed with some new pills we went and sat outside and discussed what our options were and what we should do. To be honest I was really keen to get on the boat. And the prospect of another 4 days until we left wasn’t ideal. BUT, Chantelle was really sick and I had to work hard to convince her that maybe she should spend some time here in a hotel.

Chantelle was convinced that she would be able to lay down on the boat and be fine but soon we were checking into a room at a cheap hotel. Less than 10 minutes later we were checking back out again. For us to get a refund or change our ferry tickets looked to be almost impossible due to our poor Spanish skills and to get our travel insurance to cover it meant trips to a doctor, documents to prove we had tried to change our booking etc etc. It became to much for Chantelle and she ended up just deciding that we would take the ferry as planned.

C – The key for me was that I knew I was going to feel this way for a short time longer, whether I was on the boat, or in a hotel room. So I was happy to suck it up for a while, knowing by tomorrow I would feel much better.

T - We rode out to the terminal with the idea that Chantelle could lay on a bench somewhere for a few hours until we could board and that we would splurge and book a cabin with its own toilet for the night.





Not long after we arrived at the terminal we were sent through customs who checked our paperwork and nothing else, then onto a weigh bridge which cost us 88 peso’s each, and then finally to a ticket office where we picked up our boarding passes. It was at this point that Maccas decided to make a fast exit out of Chantelles tummy and she hurried around the back of the little building to vomit. So now we have left groinal water in the US and splattered MacDonalds fries all over the ground behind a ticket building in Mexico! Sorry Canada but I think we only left Mabels oily innards scattered through you!

C – Oh yes, sorry about that La Paz ferry terminal building. But, I did cover it up with dirt and man did I feel heaps better! I think the fries assisted whatever was left in my body to get out quickly!!! We also managed to get a private cabin, which was more than we have paid for a hotel room yet, but we both knew it would be worth it.



T - Finally we made it into the terminal where Chantelle declared herself feeling much better for getting the ‘Demon’ out of her stomach.



All of a sudden we were asked to board. 3 hours before departure. It was great! We had access to our room straight away and spent the next few hours laying about and reading as Chantelle steadily improved.







C – The ferry was much more modern than I expected and it was actually super lovely. Our cabin was lovely and comfortable and even had a window and a shower! After drinking lots of water and having a lie down I was certainly feeling much better!!

T - We ventured outside and met up with some fellow bikers who were also heading south. We had a great chat and continued our conversation over dinner which was included in our boarding fee! Bonus!!!







Chantelle was much perked up by now and after she ate some dinner she went off to bed to sleep off the exhaustion of the tummy bug blues. I also followed her up to the room and spent an hour or so watching Everyone Loves Raymond until I couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer.

Tomorrow we shall be in Mazatlan where we have booked an Air bnb room for the night. Then the day after we will tackle the road called Diablos something or rather or The Spine of the Devil.

T - It is such a lovely feeling when you get to sleep on a boat. Well I think so anyway. The gentle swaying and the dull thrumming of the engines always help me to sleep soundly and deeply. Though I did wake up a few times when there was a particularly decent sway occasionally which had me worrying about the bikes. The place we had been directed to park in had no spots to tie down to so our bikes were just propped up on the centre stands and help in place by some mucky greasy water that dribbled across the floor under them. I had visions of them pirouetting quite elegantly across the slimy steel decks in the hold, bouncing off of other peoples cars and causing mayhem and destruction as they went. Either that or they would just be flopped over on their sides slaloming about in the greasy puddle of water. Just how Mabel likes it I suspect...

C – Such a wonderful, wonderful nights sleep! The room was a great temperature, the bed was super comfortable and I woke up still feeling exhausted, but much more alive!







T - I wandered out onto the back decks and joined the handful of other people gathered out there and watched the sun rise over the water. It was absolutely spectacular and somehow I felt that this sunrise heralded a new beginning for us on this trip. I know it sounds weird but I didn’t feel as if I was in Mexico on the Baja. Now I felt like I was really heading for Mexico!





We spent a while chatting to another couple who had ridden down from Alaska. One of them was riding my all time favourite bike. An XT660Z Tenere. I had one and LOVED it, so I was quite keen to hear what she had to say about hers. It seemed that she didn’t enjoy it as much as me. The bike was too tall and too heavy for her for their trip. Which must suck?! I offered, half joking and half hoping, to swap Mabel for the Tenere, but she didn’t seem to find that such a great deal. I was only joking Mabel! I wouldn’t trade you in. Yet.....



C – It always lovely to meet to other travellers and we spent some time talking about everyones routes. Like us, most people really don’t know where they are going to head tomorrow, its all about focusing on today. And I love that so much, the focus on staying in the present and not looking forward or back.

T - As the ferry docked we all stood around waiting to get off. This is the most painful part of any trip. The waiting to disembark. Wether it be on a plane or a boat. Just let us off already!



Finally we were reunited with our upright bikes still in the same place we had left them. Phew. We said our farewells to the bikers we had met and hope to run into the as we head down the road over the next few weeks and months. Rick had a bike that I was quite taken with, after the Tenere and Mabel of course. It is a Moto Guzzi V7 and what a gorgeous machine it is! I will be following him on his trip over on ADVrider for sure!





We pushed our way into the line of trucks that were heading down the off ramp and soon we were free into the traffic of Mazatlan! We were in Mexico baby! Everything felt different. The pace was slower, the smells were incredible, the colours were a visual feast! Woohoo!







We couldn’t check in to our room until 3 so we busied ourselves by riding around the city centre, down little one way alleys and then north along the coast. It was damn hot here but it did cool off as we moved along the water a little.

C – It was exciting to ‘feel’ Mexico. As Todd said, the Baja seems to be a bit of in between place, so we were both looking forward to the mainland. Matazlan looks to be a wonderful city and despite the heat, it was lovely to ride around in the relatively sedate traffic. There was a definite feel of ‘slowing down’ here.

T - Eventually we booked into our room and plan on doing some laundry, because I have no clean clothes left and I friggin smell bad right now. I must have stuck the entire boat out. Even Chantelle commented on my stink today. Sorry to everyone on the boat! Just my little gift to you all!





So that’s where I am right now as I write this. Laying on a comfortable bed, in a gorgeous home, staring out the open door across the street at a bright blue house and just loving life! Smells and all!





Tomorrow we head inland towards Durango on the free road of curvey curves. I had a look at our GPS today and the route we are going is just a scrambled spaghetified mess! Cant wait!!

Well T&C , seems your ferry ride was much smoother than the one I had back in December 1991 , I spent the whole night rolling from one side of my bunk to the other and then back again , didn't sleep a wink !

A good omen for the remainder of your trip hopefully .

We think it is! We are feeling good and positive! Only wish we could work out where to camp more vs staying in hotels! That will come with time I am sure

T - Todays ride promised to be amazing. We had been told by travellers before us who had recently rode this section of Highway 40 between Mazatlan and Durango, that it was gorgeous and curvy and amazing! So we had high hopes!

I also had some very small nerves in the back of my mind. For this was the same area that last year two Australians were killed on. However I am sure we will both be fine and we also knew another rider who was heading the same way today with us. Safety in numbers and all that!

C – We were both sweating long before we even got close to getting on the bikes. That nice sweaty sweat you get from humidity! We both had enjoyed our short time in Mazatlan – it is a pretty cool city, with lovely humidity, warm temps and a beautiful sea breeze.

The thrill of the watching the thunderstorm come last night was just amazing. The build of intensity in the air, then the massive relief in the atmosphere as mother nature puts on her show.

I slept so, so well last night, I think catching up after my fun bout of Baja Belly and after 10 uninterrupted hours of sleep I was raring to go!





T - We said good bye to Le-An who was the lovely lady’s who’s house we stayed in last night and cruised on out. Our destination for today was around 220km’s up the road at a small town called El Salto just 150km’s to the west of Durango.

The traffic was heavy but well behaved and we had many people wave at us and beep to say hello. All day in fact! We made our turn off the main highway and down the Libre 40. There is a toll road that runs right along beside the free one and if it wasn’t for the promise of tight curves and scenic vistas then we would have taken it. It is apparently an engineering marvel with something like 62 tunnels and numerous massive bridges!

C – The scale of the engineering on the toll road intrigued us both, but really, as bikers, there was just no other way to go other than straight up the El Espinazo Del Diablo – or the Spine of the Devil. Local legend has it that when the Archangel Michael tossed out the devil from heaven and he landed here on earth and his backbone formed the rugged ridges of the Sierra Madres across which this road runs.

The minute we reached the outer limits of Mazatlan the feel of the air began to change. The humidity began to drop and a slight chill wafted us occasionally. Rosie was very much enjoying the cooler air, but we both knew at the end of this climb we would hoping for some heat again!





T - Our road led us straight up and into the mountains. The views started almost straight away with mountains fading out into the distance. All ensconced in a blue haze similar to the mountains near Sydney back home. Every curve on the road led us to more amazing scenery. It was frigging breathtaking!

The road hugged cliffs, skirted across ridgelines and cut through pine forests. It was just wow. What a road. And the corners just never stopped. As soon as we left one turn the next would be upon us instantly. Mabel was singing/screaming in delight/pain and I was grinning like mad!





C – The scenery was so different from what we had witnessed along the Baja. As the city disappeared into the distance, the vegetation turned a luscious green with beautiful bright flowers and butterflys the size of small birds flying about. I had one of those moments where you can’t quite believe something can be so beautiful, where you feel like a part of the environment.

We were not on the road very long when we were passed by a few big BMW motorcycles. I am sure everyone of them was having just as much fun as we were. This road is truly a bikers heaven. It is one constant corner – left, right, left, right, left, right! Mucho curva peligrosa!!!!







T - As we rose higher and higher the bikes begun to run worse and worse. Popping and farting their way up to over 2700 meters. Every time we would pull up to a stop one or both of them would chug and die. They were both running rich and ragged. Time for a tune up and a carby rebuild girls!

We met up with a lovely chap we met on the ferry, Rick, on his gorgeous MotoGuzzi V7. Gee that bike is lovely and I think I might get one when we get home. We sat behind him for a while as he was plonking along at our postie pace. The wash of deep throbbing noise coming back at us from his twin mufflers was almost as good as the scenery around us.





Eventually we passed him as he stopped for a photo. Hope to see you again on the road Rick! Chantelle and I both had the tummy grumbles, of the good variety, and it was well after lunchtime. So we picked a roadside restaurant where we tried Queso Gorditas. A type of tortilla stuffed with cheese and then cooked on a hot pan. Bloody hell. Call me Shirley and spank my bottom. They were damn amazing! If I was a greedier bastard I would have had a second one! Lunch today cost us $4 and consisted of two goditas, a soda, and two sweet chocolate cakes.





C – The gorditas were yummo and it was amazing that the lady made them from scratch, right in front of us!! Talk about fresh!!!

T - We saw Rick pass by as we were stuffing our faces and then another biker on a yellow 650 BMW pulled up next door. So naturally we wanted to go say g’day. We had been playing tag with this rider for the best part of the day. He would pass us when we stopped for a photo and then vice versa.



His name is Ken and though he is deaf we had a nice chat via text on his phone. He too is headed for Durango and ultimately for Argentina. Lovely to have met you Ken and we hope to see you further along too!

C – We headed out of the small pueblo where we ate lunch, both grinning by the thrill of the ride but starting to succumb to the shivers. It was getting very cold at this height and obviously we were dressed for the heat. The fact that we were sweltering in La Paz didnt make the cold any easier to deal with!!!



T - From here our ride took a downhill turn. In fact to begin with we were actually skipping downhill. Losing altitude and gaining some warmth. Then it started to rain. Just a few spots so we carried on. It got a little heavier, but not enough for us to break out the dreaded wet weather gear. Then suddenly it was bucketing down and we were drenched in seconds. We pulled into an abandoned taco stall and pulled our wet weathers on. Ken went sailing by in his nice textile all weather riding gear. Probably thinking “look at these bloody morons”.





We carried on in the wet. Shivering our tits off. In a short time though the rain cleared and we descended up El Salto. We needed a hotel and it looked as though we only had two options here. One that looked really dodgey and murky and one that looked expensive. We picked expensive. It cost us the equivalent of $35 for the night. Ouchies!



C – I was a bit disappointed at having to pay so much for a hotel room... but then I guess in the scheme of things, it really isn’t that much and after we rode past the cheap option, we were both very glad we chose the expensive one! We are both really missing camping though. There is something so special about being outdoors, being vulnerable and exposed to the elements. Whilst I might complain about being cold and wet, it is all experiences that you just don’t get sitting in a warm, comfy hotel room. Which I do enjoy, but it is so much more enjoyable when it is on occasion, rather than the room. Hopefully once we get through this area, which we are assured is drug Cartel territory, we will be able to camp more.

T - We unpacked the bikes and took a ride down the main thoroughfare in town. The road was narrow and one way and crammed with cars, dogs, pedestrians, boozers, and all manner of merchandise. We rode down one side and back up the next. It seemed like this was about all there was in this town and we made our way back to the hotel for dinner and some TV.



C – Highway 40 through El Salto was not much to look at it at all, but when we ventured into town it didn’t really seem to improve either. El Salto feels like a town which has not benefited from prosperity over the years.

T - Tomorrow we continue along to a place south of Durango. We like to just turn up in a place and sort out a hotel on the spot, but this is not working to well for us at the moment. So we have picked a town and a hotel for $17 and that’s where we shall go.

T - It seems the parking lot for our hotel doubles as the local hang out spot for drunk locals who like listening to loud Mexican music from 3am through til 7 in the morning! Crazy! So we didnt get too much sleep last night. Never the less we both were up early and sat snuggled into the blankets in bed and watched a few episodes of Everyone Loves Raymond.

C – It was still pitch black outside and very, very chilly when we finally gave in to the sleep idea at 6.30am. We decided that we weren’t moving anywhere too soon, given the sun was yet to peak over the horizon, so I made tea and snuggled back into the blankets.

T - We packed up in the slightly chilly air outside and it wasn’t long before we had fuelled up our bikes and were on the road. We had decided to travel only as far as Durango today. We were keen to hang out with Rick whom we had first met on the ferry to Mazatlan.

C – As we were packing up the bikes, the last of the long standing drunkards drove off (yes, thats right – drove off in his pickup truck), leaving a trail of cans littered throughout the car park, which some poor employee had to come along and pick up. Terrible!!!



We had some giggles whilst we sitting in bed last night watching some tele – firstly, how did two Australians on posties bikes end up sitting in a hotel in a seedy Mexican town, where apparently the cartel are present. And secondly – just in the morning we were sweating in the humidity and then sleeping in thermals and three blankets!!!

One venture outside and we both decided it was time to leave on the thermals under our riding gear today! We could see fog settling over the valley as we packed up and it looked quite pretty, but as we rode out, we realised it was just diesel fumes and smoke from every ones fires!!!







T - The ride was pretty and we cruised along enjoying the scenery and the cool air. As we got closer to Durango the traffic began to increase and we saw some wild overtaking manoeuvres. One of them put the wind up us for sure with a bus missing us by mere inches!







In the end we sailed smoothly into Durango. A city we were almost going to bypass. We followed our GPS which led us down narrow streets and one way alleys until we were in the centre of town. We struggled to locate our hotel and did quite a few laps of the block.

But we made it and soon our bikes were parked next to Ricks (mine really) and we were settling down into our room. What a lovely hotel! We rode our bikes straight through the entrance way and parked inside.dsc06896

We hooked up with Rick and headed off on foot to grab some food. Which as always was pretty damn great! Then we checked out a local car show and wandered up through a market and followed the crowd as we checked out one of the centers main streets. The architecture and colours here are so beautiful. I was totally transfixed by this place.











C – From the minute we rode into Durango, I was taken with the place. The centro area is just simply beautiful, with amazing architecture and a really wonderful feel to the place. So alive and vibrant!







T - After a break back at the room we wandered out again in search of more food and ended up back in the main street. Boy was it bustling! There was music and dancing and kids playing with inflatable rockets. It was so lively and fun and had such a great atmosphere. We sat and people watched as we ate dinner and I asked Rick all about his old job working in a nuclear power station. Man we meet some interesting people on this trip!













After dinner and an icecream we strolled through the plaza before heading back to the hotel. I had a message on ADVrider from another couple who were in town also and so we arranged to meet them too. We spent the next hour or so chatting to them before we called it a night.

C – By the time we got to our room we were both really taken with Durango. What a beautiful, wonderful, lovely city!!!

T - Tomorrow we head for Zacatecas. After breakfast of course! I really like Durango. It has such a great vibe and such a safe feeling. Probably my most favourite city ever!

C – After quite a nice lay in, we met Rick, Mark and Kate (the ADVRider couple we met last night) for breakfast at La Tostada and enjoyed a nice breakfast and chat fest before we all went our separate ways.







After struggling to find a reasonable price hotel in Zacatecas centro historic, we booked an AirBnB just out of the centre, near Guadalupe. So, after waving ‘Adios’ to Rick at the hotel, we headed out towards our destination.



Once out of the city, the highway took us through agricultural land. We felt as though we could be riding through any farming land in any country.. it was familiar and beautiful.







I had read about the small village of Sombrerete and was keen to stop in on our way past. We followed the signs and were soon in a mass of small alleyways with stone streets, with colours and people everywhere. It was a really beautiful and vibrant and I am sure had we not had something booked, we could of easily stayed the night and spent the day wandering the alleys. ‘Pueblo magico’ indeed!



T – Somberete was just beautiful. We had originally planned to stop here for the night instead of going to Durango. But now we had a place booked in Guadaloupe so we had to carry on. I really loved all the little single lane, one way alleys that crossed the older part of this town.

C - Back on the road, we stuck to the libre road, which cut away from the toll road and through quite a few small, bustling villages. Some were very industrial, others appearing to be in need of better times.

We went through a police checkpoint and were somewhat confused by the interaction. The policeman (with the big gun) asked us where we were from and after our response, just stared at us. After an uncomfortable period of time, he said ‘come on.... go’.. so that we did! A weird interaction!

T – It was weird. Especially as he just stared at us for what seemed an age. But he had a really big gun and I wasn’t going to argue with that!



C - After some 270km, the road became busier as we entered the city. After accidently getting separated when Todd exited the freeway and I didnt, we managed to find our AirBnb.

Our hosts were super lovely, as was our room!



We spent the evening walking through the beautiful centre of Guadalupe, checking out the cathedral and the square.











Tomorrow, we shall check out Zacatecas and then look to head further south. We may stay the night if we feel the desire!