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31 Jan 2009
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No I did it because I cant find the bloody key!
Birdy
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31 Jan 2009
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Everything was going great, the coast road was a shiny black stretch of British B road standard hardtop, and I had made good time since leaving Asafi. The black line of tar winding through the blinding white buildings allowed my mind to switch on to autopilot and let me get on with the business of watching Morocco go by. The surface slowly started deteriorating after ten k, until the conveyer smooth concrete became cracked up crazy paving that demanded full attention. All good, I enjoy the challenge. Progress was slowed but it was warm, and I was in a foreign country where the sun shone over the sea making it glitter like the broken glass littering the sides of the road.
I rounded a blind corner, a rocky scree slope obscuring the apex, and saw a gaggle of skinny children running into the road to palm rocks. Assume waving positions. With an open face helmet and combat trousers on, I didn’t fancy running a volley of rocks, even if only lobbed by pipe cleaner constructed kids. I threw my hand up to wave, and about a dozen Moroccan children broke simultaneously into massive smiles and waved enthusiastically back as they dropped their forgotten projectiles. I felt momentarily on top of the world; everyone likes to make a kid smile, I had averted disaster, and been treated like a visiting pop star into the bargain. Then I looked back to the road. And then saw the Cub swallowing pothole in front of me.
The high sun had hidden it from a distance, smothering its shadow; but now, at 5 feet and closing it opened into a black hole vortex. It was half the width of the road, directly in front of me, at least a foot wide, and deep enough to drop my front wheel most of the way up to its axle. On a bigger bike with adult sized wheels it could have been ridden out, but scooter saddled; if my front wheel hit it; it would be game over Player 1.
I grabbed the bar back; and launched a manoeuvre I haven’t tried since my biketrials riding days; the bunny hop. With the gift of retrospect it was probably a foolish thing to attempt on a fully laden scooter, but I didn’t have long to decide. The suspension helped me with some bounce, and the front lofted easily, being unladen and made of rubber and tinfoil, but the rear proved slightly more difficult. Even though I hauled up with all my 14 stone, the tyre did not move an inch from the floor: Fortunately, the lofted front wheel cleared the gap, and landed safely on the other side, as momentum brought my back wheel over. Well almost, the forwards momentum had stopped it landing in the pothole, but had brought it smashing down on the lip. The impact felt like it was going to snap the Cub in two, and the noise was like a skip full of ball bearings being thrown into hell, but forward momentum continued! Result. A hundred metres down the road, I stopped to check that I was still in one piece. I pulled over, expecting my swing arm to be hanging in two or my wheel 45 degrees out of line, but miraculously everything was perfect; these babies are made of strong stuff. Then I noticed the topbox; one of my winter gloves was hanging out. The impact had jerked the lock open and my kit had been bouncing out. When I bought the Cub, the topbox had been thrown in as a deal sweetener, even though the key was snapped off in the lock. With a few of the pins from the barrel removed; a key from my parents “cupboard of keys that time forgot a use for” was persuaded to fit, but it meant if shaken too much; the lock would swing open. Apparently it thought it had been shaken too much.
I worried at first that I had lost my other winter glove, possibly a strange worry to have on the edge of the Sahara, but you can never be too prepared ( I never have been.) Fortunately the gloves were still there but closer inspection showed that I had lost the leftover chocolate biscuits that a friendly Western Saharan had given me a couple of days before; they must have escaped and been kidnapped by the hell children. Darn those pesky kids, I hope they enjoyed their soggy and petrol tainted biscuits. Luckily for me, nothing more important seemed to have gone the way of the biscuits.
I continued my clueless bimble along the seaside just enjoying life; enjoying the beady gulls and friendly farmers who waved from their donkey drawn carts as my little donkey whizzed by. If I had passed by back in biblical days the scenery would not be much different, the same farmers would be ploughing the same fields wearing the same flip flops. I doubt that it can be a difficult life, but it has to be preferable to a lifetime in an office?
I had been concentrating on not thinking so hard, I hadn’t noticed that my fuel gauge was screaming red at me, so I pulled up to refuel. With now well practiced ease I swung into the routine. Seat up. Filler cap off. Auxiliary tank opened. Key from right hand jacket pocket. Open topbox. Remove siphoning tube from topbox. Er…remove siphoning tube from topbox. Bugger. It was gone the way of the biscuits.
Maybe I hadn’t been so lucky after all, the most important piece of equipment I had in there had left me. I couldn’t siphon the petrol from my auxiliary to the main tank without that piece of rubber tube. I had plenty of petrol but no way of getting it into the main tank. I was going to be like one of those people who dehydrate in the desert with a full waterbottle on their belt.
No drama, I would simply ride to the next village and buy a bit of pipe off of someone, or fill my main tank from a petrol station. I hadn’t moved more than five miles when the Cub coughed for the first time. No worries, I knew from experience that I still had at least a mile before it finally died. Sure enough, a mile later, she coughed and died for the last time. I had been going over ways in my head to get fuel to my engine. I had thought of using my spoon to transport it across, using a sock to soak it up and then wring it out over the tank, of rigging up an elaborate condensation rig like Ray Mears would, or even taking everything off the bike; unscrewing the tank and having a good old fashioned tip it out. As I could see the hazy haloed roofs of the next town I decided to walk it in.
It was a lovely day for riding in nothing more than jacket and combats, or sitting on a beach somewhere, but after two minutes of uphill pushing I was starting to leak. It must have looked ridiculous, like a really bad even in Worlds Strongest Man, the “Uphill loaded Cub Shunt;” doesn’t have quite the wow factor of pulling Jumbos or lifting Minis. I took my jacket off and laid it over my luggage, but had nowhere to rest my helmet so I kept it on, sensibly retaining 60% of my body heat.
I reached the outskirts of the town, to the bemused stares of the local “sitting arabs,” that feature of every Arab town; the people who just seem to loiter on the fringes with no apparent vocation other than squatting and staring. In a slight turn of fortune, one of the first shops I found was a garage, with 5 oily Moroccans stood around a prehistoric tractor, having some kind of conference. I thought about joining in; walking up and joining in the session, before saying “nah; its ****ed lads.” They were so deep in thought I don’t believe it would have been noticed. I coughed “sobah al khayr," and they all turned around to see this drowned rat stood panting over a scooter in a mass of hair and sweat. Equally as bemused as the squatters, they seemed to appreciate the novelty, and they were soon all clamouring around trying to help, fingering the bike, chattering a million miles an hour, clearing things away. It was then that I realised I had forgotten the Arabic for “hose.”
The only synonym I managed to come up with was “tunnel,” which not really being a synonym, only confused matters. I had to resort to the ancient interpretive art of dance and mime. I held up my hands in front of my face and made elaborate “hose” gestures while sucking in and out to demonstrate what I wanted it for. As the little crowd erupted into uncontrollable laughter I realised I had used the international sign language for “wanking off an extravagant member into the mouth,” not, as I had intended, “I need a hose for siphoning.”
That route exhausted, I made the more sensible decision to abandon attempts at language and simply walk into the workshop and point at a hose. “Ahhh,” came the replies. Within two minutes, ten dirham lighter saw me with a hose, refuelled and ready to go. I got on my way, and left the effusive mechanics waving and smiling behind me. It then hit me. “Khartoum,” the Arabic word for hose is “Khartoum,” the same word as the Capital of Sudan and “elephants trunk:” No worries.
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31 Jan 2009
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Thanks for another great report. Almost make me want to buy a cub, not  )
well done keep them coming.
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9 Feb 2009
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I'm trying to stifle my laughter whilst sitting at my desk, but its kind of coming out as a series of grunts and some spittle.
My fellow office-dwellers are beginning to get concerned.
Another great report...
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5 Mar 2009
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I was being sarcastic, damn this whole typing not speaking thing!! 
My dad is a journalist, my mother is an english teacher, I have an english degree from a rather well-known university and write for a living. I get funny looks for laughing at comically mis-spelled signs that no-one else has a problem with.
But clearly I can't even reproduce the lowest form of wit 
I'll try harder next time.
Laura
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6 Mar 2009
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I killed the Cub.
I am back home. I wrote the poor little kitten off, just outside Guinea. The Duchess of Marlboro (for that was her name) now lies in a shallow African grave. I had a bad blow out on a corrugated dirt road, and it tossed me off. I bounced pretty well, just a few bruises and a twisted knee. The Cub came off less lightly, with a cracked engine casing and twisted headstock being the most critical wounds.
I couldn't find anyone who could take it to the next town, so that I could have futile attempt at resurrecting her, so I left her and hitch-hiked back to Dakar, and flew home. It was sad to abandon her after 6k miles, but I think she earned her 400 quid asking price with flying stars.
Apologies for not recently blogging anything, been quite out of touch with the world. I also might be writing for one of the major mags, so didn't want to blow that by giving it away for free. I am a shellfish.
Birdy
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6 Mar 2009
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Brave attempt, fella! It seems the humble Cub is only slightly indestructible  RIP...
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6 Mar 2009
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Top Work
Great to hear you are back safe and sound and eating Lincoln biscuits with the best of 'em.
Well done on the magazine thing hope it all works out, look forward to reading all about it.
Kindest regards
Tina and Roo
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7 Mar 2009
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What a pity was looking forward to all the posts. Maybe on round two?
__________________
To those who say it can't be done - stand aside for those who are already doing it.
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7 Mar 2009
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[quote=Birdy;232129]I killed the Cub.
I am back home. I wrote the poor little kitten off, just outside Guinea. The Duchess of Marlboro (for that was her name) now lies in a shallow African grave. I had a bad blow out on a corrugated dirt road, and it tossed me off (And you abandon a bike that does that for you!!). I bounced pretty well, just a few bruises and a twisted knee. The Cub came off less lightly, with a cracked engine casing and twisted headstock being the most critical wounds.
I couldn't find anyone who could take it to the next town, so that I could have futile attempt at resurrecting her, so I left her and hitch-hiked back to Dakar, and flew home. It was sad to abandon her after 6k miles, but I think she earned her 400 quid asking price with flying stars.
Apologies for not recently blogging anything, been quite out of touch with the world. I also might be writing for one of the major mags, so didn't want to blow that by giving it away for free. I am a shellfish.
Birdy[/quote
Now get a couple of tubes of that instant metal stuff, a hammer and a shovel and get yerself back out there and get it, and yourself back on track, we have been enjoying your adventures.
And from the bit I 'highlighted' in your post, you'll be glad you did! 
__________________
'He who laughs last, was too slow to get the joke'
Never confuse the map with the journey.
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7 Mar 2009
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congrats on your epic adventure, sorry to hear you didn't bring the cub home, would have been easy to fix (  )
The weak spot in a big agricultural episode is where the footrests are bolted to the cases, a heavy impact can crack the ally.
10:1 there are some african kids fixing it right now.
am off up to the mini meet on my cub in a few minutes, got to fly the sub 100cc flag!
__________________
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The most effective way of turning petrol into noise without the side-effect of horsepower
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7 Mar 2009
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Go again
Hi, I had been in two minds whether to say you shouldn't give up so easily but felt that would be too critical. Others however feel the same. Go for it. I'd have left the beastie with someone out there and got parts for it in Spain for instance, where there's a will there's a way! Ask if any HUBBers are going down that way and ask for a lift. Linzi.
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7 Mar 2009
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Nah, the Cub was truly buggered. The engine casing was the biggie, but because of the corrugations, it tumbled several times, ensuring a good spread of damage. I'm sure everything that can be salvaged, has been salvaged - we can call it charity. I lost very little, some poor people gained a comparitive lot.
Because I was quite remote at the time, and noone could give me a lift with the bike, that also hamstringed any plans of recovery. The best part of 6k is quite a long trip on a scooter anyway! BUT...
There is no giving up here. I'm going back out, but I am taking a big bike (125cc) and a girlfriend with me.
Thanks for the kind comments though people!
Where else am I going to find a bike that will toss me off? sorry, unfortunately ambiguity there!
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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