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I've in mind to drive along Pacific coastline, till Guatemala. If possible I'd like to visit the natural park of El Imposible. I've travelled for just two days in El Salvador, but this little country is amazing from a landscape viewpoint. Unfortunately the country is mainly known due his criminality problems. In the 80's, migrant people from El Salvador began in California to build one of the most dangerous gang in the world: the MS13 (Mara Salvatrucha 13). You can find the first references in the Danzel Washington's movie "Training Day"
even the National Geographic channel has made a documentary
Ok everithing that this kind of persons make is unacceptable, but analize how this goups were born, grown and the way in that they run the organization, is interesting. For example their mimicry: but they are criminals.
The hotel Milagro serves breakfast
the little guard dog
my itineraty skips the capital
this girls are using the stop at the fuel station to make up their friend
this is a right place, is safety, because weapons are forbidden
a little diversion to can see the ocean: this country, from surfers point of view is a paradise
this should be one of the best beaches of El Salvador
ok now we are during the low season, but during the high season should be very crowed
again on the road, just stopping if something interesting appears
this tree had fallen down due the wind !!
This part of the road, along the ocean is amazing: sometimes the ocean appears to you after a turn
The natural park El Imposible is near the border with Guatemala: maybe I can sleep in the park and tomorrow afternoon cross the border. I've stopped at this crossroads to ask the direction to the park
Is very difficult find this road: my map is too little and everibody I've asked for direcion is giving to me different advice. At 1 pm I stopped for lunch. This guys invited me to sit at the table. Obviously me and my motorbike are intriguing and thay begin to ask me where I'm from: ahh ok Italy. After some normal questions one of them asks if is truth that italian womens are "Mas candela !" Italian is similar to spanish and I've studied spanish for 3 months, but I can't understand: what does it means candela ?
With an international gesture (is the last above in the right) I finally can translate Candela
Are italian womens very very hot in the bed ?
Ok now a little break is necessary. I don't think that in the world exist a human race (male or female) better than the other in the sexual activity. In my opinion it depends how much feeling you have with your partner, that can be tall, short, white yellow, orange etc...
When i was young I remember the wedding of a my friend. He was one of the first to get married. During the pre-ceremony cocktail (it has begun since 2 hours), we are speaking about sex ( age average about 23/24 years), sex position etc.. A guy a little bit older ( 28) suddendly tells " This is a little bit disgusting: my wife don't think and don't do this kind of depravity" . I was behind him and remember to had answered: " With you !" He become purple and had gone.
I tell to this guys, that I can't evaluate the passionate nature of the italian womans, but I can explain thei nature.
Typically the italian woman (or girl) is very strong and is the home chief. When an italian man finish to work and comes back home, has to play with childrens, bring out the garbage and the dog: if foodstuffs are necessary the man has to go to the market. The guys look at me as I'm speaking of a population from the space, but the woman that run the little restaurant smiles. The first guy says"Is impossible" "Come in Italy my friend and you'll see it" I answer.
After lunch I try again to find the road for El Imposible. For the umpteenth time I ask to the people. Finally an old man tells to me that the road is next to the right but he suggest to me to don't go to El Imposible. I ask why. He tells that the road is difficult even for a 4x4 car, the road is muddy and I'm travelling alone: a perfect target for pandillas. He tells that normally tourists go to the park with car and security. I remember how emty was the road to volcano Motombo in Nicaragua: it's better go on.
I'm very close to the border with Guatemala: this means I'll have more time, for example, to visit the lake Atitlan
El Salvador/Guatemala border
I arrive around 5 pm at Cinquimullilla: hotel San Carlos
Sorry for the stop of the report, but in this days I'm very busy with the work
Friday June 7
I wake up and decide to let check the knee in Escuintla: it is still a little bit red and blubber.
hospital parking
I wait 10 minutes and when a door open ther's a woman, the doctor. In the same room ther's an old woman, with a problem in one arm. The doctor says that she's got to wait. Ther's still a little bit infection: what ? Since 9 days I've taken antibiotics. She asks to see all my prescriptions.
Her, in this picture ( I've taken in Mexico City) you can see all my prescriptions and drugs at the end of the vacation.
She explain to me the situation: first doctor in Guatemala has given antibiotics and painkiller, but in the drugstore the employee gave me just painkiller. Second doctor , the one that has removed stitches hasen't written antibiotics on the prescription. For 9 day I've taken a lot of drugs, but not antibiotics. No problem she says: now with this antibiotic i'll resolve the problem in fwe days. It was natural for me ask "Are you sure ?" She get up watching me in the eyes: "Yo soy cubana " (I'm from Cuba): you know that doctors of Cuba are probably the best in Central and South America and often are working abroad, as support.
Italy's mark
perfect place where let weld the stand of the bag
now begins the mountains zone near the Atilan lake
Suddendly the road disappears: a big fload has destroyed it
The slush is delicious, but kids have surronded me
low season means fog, but I was born in the Padan Plain and this fog is nothing for me
Finally I reach the lake and God has given to me a 30 minutes break from the rain: so it's possible relax, and get some food
This has been my route around the lake to can reach the panAmerican Highway
Again the rain, but this time I've stopped at a school: interesting because in the morning is a primary school and in the afternoon is a secondary school.
Huaoo no more rain..but even no more pave
at this pump the attendant write a map for me
again the rain, but now I'm on the Panamerican Highway
It's late and so I've stopped in Nahuala. Ther's just one motel, but without the parking. The entry is too much narrow and so isn't possible to bring the bike inside. The owner suggests to me to go to the fireman station and ask if they can keep the bike for the night. The firemen (bomberos) are very nice and not only keep the bike, but even me, because they've got a bed in a room with their equipments. All the firemen are volunteers and it was impossible for me give some money for the room.
for dinner this local Fried Chicken Restaurant is perfect
Saturday June 8
For some minutes I become a honorary firemen
breakfast in the market
I really don't know the name and what's is it, but everibody was eating it
I'd like at least reach the mexican border
today just 180 km (112 miles), but rain, mountains, wind (and a very second-rate driver) don't allow me to drive for more
at 3 pm is necessasry a stop at this pulperia and I visit the home of the family that runs the shop
mom and daughter are cooking
this is the daughter: 19 years and a son two years old
after 60 km (37 miles) under the rain I reach the border. On the Guatemala side everything's fine...on the mexican side no. Immigration has been quick, but at the custom the official tells to me that I've got to wait: something's wrong in the motorbike documents. After two hours (I was beginning to conceive the Mexican prisons) it's finisch. The motorbike was bought in Texas and at the time Oscar made the import documents at the border and then had regulated the import at the office in Mexico City. The documents numbers are different from office and border, so the police noticed this difference.
Somebody has told to me that in a nearby motel a room costs 15 $. The owner watch my motorbike and asks 25$: go to the hell. I've driven till Tapachula and for 2 $ a taxi brings me to an Hospedaje ( a cheap hotel): 10 $ for the room
the main square
finally I find the shave soap
Sunday June 9
I've decided to reach Acapulco. In the middle ther's the city of Puerto Escondido. In Italy is a very famous place due this movie
breakfast in this road cafè
In Chiapas checkpoints are very common
at midday the sun is hitting me with a baseball bat. At this pulperia, the old man is happy to can say that he knows two famous italian actress: Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren
Around 3 pm I met this bunch of mexican bikers. They are going to a motorcyclist meeting organized for charity to local population: some days ago an hurricane has damaged a lot of houses
This 9 years old bikers sure is better than me to drive
I hail everybody: I'm goning in the opposite direction
hte damages of the hurricane
first sign to Acapulco
my idea is to rest in Tehuantepec, but the engine begins to sputter and the bike goes slow: I just can use the third gear and I'm not able to ride more than 25 miles (40 km) speed. After some minute I saw the sign to Mixtequilla 2 km ( 1 mile) : maybe a mechanic ? Around 7 pm I'm in the city, ther's a mechanic but it's closed. It's sunday. After few minutes two men with a car arrive in front of the workshop: great they are the owners. " Carburador senor" (carburetor) is the diagnosis. Tomorrow morning they can fix everything. Inthe city aren't motel, but just a kind of "eco lodge": the room is a little bit expensive 18 € = 24 $, but this is my only option
ther's a big dog (doberman) ..but he's fastened to a chain. This is a good thing because very close to the doberman ther's the clotheshorse. I begin to hang my travel clothes when I heard snarl: no problem the doberman is fastened...but in this lodge there are 2 dogs. Obviously the other is free. Despite my hurt knee I'm faster then the second dog to run to the restaurant of the lodge, where the people stops the dog. Ok, for sure I'll go in the city to eat.
the church
the movida in Mixtequilla offers a female volleyball tournement, near the church
dinner
It' going dark, but I heard some music. Now happens one of the amazing moment that sometimes the fate organize for you: thanks bad carburator
It's a parade of a politician candidate to mayor of Mixtequilla
After I've taken some shots with my camera the people sign up me "officialy"
the candidate parade begins to move along streets and I follow with my motorbike the parade. The soundtrack is "El Pueblo unido jamais serà vencido
this is the staff of the candidate...as in Italy I think too much people=too much salaries
ok: the showgirl isn't bad
a slush
Monday July 10
If mechanic is able to fix the problem in the morning I should reach Puerto Escondido in the afternoon
In the mechanic's workshop there are really any kind of veichle
this guy is an engineer..out of work at the moment
the problem was the carburetor: too much dirty
two hours and everything's fine
breackfast
advertisements here are made by hands: no poster
Looking at the map I had thought to drive along an ocean side road: wrong. It's very sporadic to can see the ocean. The road twist and turn between trees and is up and down on little hills
The motorbike is running well: what can stop me ? A puncture. Perfect place: desert road and an unskilled biker...me. But I've got the glue to repair the tire and a littel air compressor.
After half hour this is the situation: the glue is all around the ground and the air compressor doesn't works.
A guy driving a car stops and tells to me that forward ther's a tyre center (vulcanizador). After he had driven to him he went back: the tyre dealer don't have a pick up to can load the bike and isn't sure to can repair the tyre.
I begin to push the bike when it comes the vulcanizador that tells that his shops isn't far away.
Who knows what's mean in Central America not far away ? 2 miles ? 5 miles ? 20 miles?
I turn on the motorbike: 1st gear, little bit of gas and go ahead. The wokshop is in Copalita: 4 miles (7 km)
same cards as in Italy
the air compressor could not work: too big the hole, look at the nail
Ok and now let me write something about the vulcanizador. This man (67 years old) has 3 wifes and 6 children. For this reason he must work a lot to pay maintenance. Now things are going a little bit better. He discovered that the second wife has 2 lovers. He spoke with this 2 men: "Ok I don't give a damn of this situation, but you've got to donate money for maintenance" Now he hopes that even 1st and 3rd wife could find a lover.
In the late afternoon I'm in Puerto Escondido
A cabanas on the beach: 8 $ ( 6€)
shower and a walk through the town
with a lot of people should'nt be nice, but during hte love season is a relaxing place
this is the pizzeria of the italian emigrant that inspired the movie
I start around 9 am, nobody on the road except this bunch of vultures: it sounds like a message and so I stop to buy a replacement tyre
this is the rest point for the taxi driver
maybe to eat
I've eaten something different
no washer maschine
Everybody connect Acapulco to fun and vacation, but this is the 4th most dangerous city in the world !!! 142 homicides for every 100.000 residents. This average is 28 time higher then in USA
touristic area could be very dangerous for me: luxury hotels almost everywhere.
I wrote almost: in Acapulco hotel Dominom (Costera Miguel Aleman # 711) can save your money
ther's parking for the bike, swimming pool and wireless
My hotel is in the luxury area, La Condensa, and so I take a bus to reach the Acapulco Zocalo
I eat a corn on the cob and after take a bus to come back in my hotel: here busses have smoked glasses that are ok to protect the driver from the sun...but during the day. In the night you can'tm have a good view. But this doesn't matter: my bus driver was driving and watching films
Now starts the game plan to come back in Mexico City: on 15 of June I've got my fly back
I wake up very early
a pic with Benito Orozco Mendoza: should be a lucky charm
good bye Acapulco I'm going to Mexico City
In Mexico toll free roads have the same number as toll roads
it's around noon when I stop at Oxxo..everywhere in Mexico
The coffe machine is always near the slush machine and with a mix you can get a very good ice coffee.
Im in lane to pay and a man tells to me to go, so my coffee don't became cold. i explain to him what I did, because in Italy ice coffee is very common during the summer. Concidences always help you to set up a great itinerary. This man tells to me that not very far exist a very special city El Chipilo, where an italian community has lived since 1850. They are migrant workers from an italian region, Veneto. The italian language is learned in the schools of this city. Ok, El Chipilo will be my next stop
every day is possible get pics as this
a kind of national army guard had seized some drug dealers
It's dark when I arrive at the Gaby's Motel in Cuernavaca. An employee tells 400 pesos for the night. I turn my bike but it comes the owner: How much would you like to spend? 200 pesos. Ok
This is an hour motel , for lovers. The room tv has got 4 adult channels
Room is a little bit kitsch
an employee of the motel brings me to an internet point: 3 people on the scooter
around 10 pm I come back: this motel is better organized than mine
Sometimes life can be hard, but for a mexican farmer is harder. They get 10 US $ a day, six day a week, no industrial insurance, no rights, and they know that an USA farmer gains 10 US $ a hour.The gasoline is very expensive (around 5 $ a gallon). One farmer tells that Mexico is full of petrol, but instead to build refineries, the govenement sells petro outside Mexico and the buy gasoline.
Museums and monuments are a very important part ofa country, but even the everyday life is something that you've got to try to know
another ice coffee
An italian soccer school..mhhh I should be very close to El Chipilo
here I'm
In this bar the owner speaks italian and introduce me to some friends
Italy
Inthe town hall they tell me where is possible to buy a book with the history of the town
is a book for the 120 years of El Chipilo
Ok the pizza maker is mexican, but the wood oven works very well
a little stop in Puebla
last clothes change..again the rain
Just in Plaza Maior you can take the picture of the comeback
In the square ther's still the teacher unit ? In one poster you can read the question: Why a salary of a politic is 40.000 pesos and a teacher get 3.000 pesos ?
Speking with them I explain that even in the Italian Parliament you can see politics that are sleeping
Driving the bike, I come back in El Tepitocon: this neighborhood is known as a very dangerous place, but it depends from the way you want to "explore" it. Often this kind of zone are known as "ghetto" due an high criminality rate, but are even full of people that everyday work bring children at school etc... So if you decide to walk alone, in the dark in this places you can be in a pickle, but if during working hours you walk in a crowd street or in a food market you sholud not get trouble.
From the point of view of colors, sounds and people El tepito (for me) was fantastic
In the afternoon I meet Oscar to give back the Kawasaki. Honestly he admit that probably the bike hasn't checked well before my departure and so he give me back the full deposit.
In hte evening the disck jockey/barman of the hostel give a very good information: the address of the UTA bar, a club where is possible listen punk, metal, dark, new wave etc.. a place perfect for me.
Sure this isn't the UTA
Ahh UTA: ok after 10 minutes this became n°1 spot in Mexico City
Back in the hostel after midnight: this guy went to the wrestling show
Suddendly one magic moments that you'll never can get in a hotel, but just in a hostel
I share my room with 9 colombian guys and now the disc jokey decide to play colombian salsa and immediatly the girls begin to teach to everybody the colombian salsa
Before to go in the bed I think that tomorrow will be the hardest day of my vacation: souvenirs search
Today will be the toughest day of my vacation: find some souvenirs. Normally I look for magnets: easy to carry home (little) and cheap.
In Mexico City the right place is the market Ciudadela
A kind of anarchic/punk market: looks like the perfect palce where finish my vacation after the last night at the Uta
It's better to update my GPS
No subway:I'll use bus, but Ciudadela is very close to my hostel. Ok by foot
I reach the market very early, and some shop is close, but this is a paradise for souvenir hunters, just take a look at pictures
this is a shop of handcrafted classic guitars
but I don't forget that I need souvenirs
hey bikers:
Finally I bought magnets made as sandal, with the writing Mexico
this is the bus terminal very close to the market El Chopo
this building has a very nice mosaic and I take a pic
after a man begins to follow me I stop and he asks to me why I've taken the picture. He's an employee of the security, because this buliding is the headquarters of PRI (Partito Revolucionario Istitucional ). For 70 years this has been the first party in Mexico: most of the party in Mexico are left oriented, but the PRI is a lot focused on the workers. So I ask to him " Why farmers, as in El Chipilo, are gaining just 10$ a day?" Suddendly he begins to stutter"It isn't easy...in Mexico ther's a lot of corruption.." I'm outside Italy, but always the same song" I'm honest, I'm doing everything possible, but the others are bad ecc ecc..." Ok bye bye El Chopo is waiting me and her's the place: FANTASTIC !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
this is the starting point
Who's this old senile in front of the Iron Maiden poster ?
Due to my age I attended at one of the first live in Italy of the iron Maiden, in the city of Reggio Emilia: the singer was Paul Di Anno. At the end of the live he excused with the crowd: " Sorry guys, but we recorded just two LP and so we have finished the songs" quanto avevano pubblicato solo 2 album.
going around El Chopo I reinforce my opinion that you don't have to spend 100$ to can listen good music or see funny things (even creative or intelligent)
maybe I'm not the older her in El Chopo
a live act of a very famous band (in Central America): the Bunkers
I've got to come back to the hostel
advertisement
body painting
In the hostel I finisch to prepare my luggages and greet everybody: cook, owner and receptionist.
At the airport I'm early (almost 3 hours) and so I've time to protect my luggage. To save money you don't need to use official wrap bag security point
you can do yourself with a good garbage bag and some tape: look
before
after 30 minutes
the garbage bag is a security surplus
The fly back is without a problem, but at my arrive in the terminal of Bologna (Italy) this is the meeting point for the visitors of the packaging exposition 2013: ok the perfect place for the last pic
Thank to every forum reader, and sorry for my english and the long time necessary to finish this report: I really enjoied to share it with you. I'll try to answer to any question
Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's thelist of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now, and add your information if we didn't find you.
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Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
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Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
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