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29 May 2017
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Next we walked across the square to the Hagia Sofia, which is now a museum.
“The Church of the Holy Wisdom, known as Hagia Sophia or Aya Sofya, is a former Byzantine church and former Ottoman mosque. It is universally acknowledged as one of the great buildings of the world.”
“Unfortunately nothing remains of the original Hagia Sophia, which was built on this site in the fourth century by Constantine the Great who was the first Christian emperor and the founder of the city of Constantinople. The Hagia Sophia was one of several great churches he built throughout his empire.
Following the destruction of Constantine's church, a second was built by his son Constantius and the emperor Theodosius the Great. This second church was burned down during the Nika riots of 532, though fragments of it have been excavated and can be seen today.
Hagia Sophia was rebuilt in her present form between 532 and 537 under the personal supervision of Emperor Justinian I. It is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture, rich with mosaics and marble pillars and coverings. After completion, Justinian is said to have exclaimed, "Solomon, I have outdone thee!"
For over 900 years the Hagia Sophia was the seat of the Orthodox Patriarch of Constantinople. In 1204 the cathedral was ruthlessly attacked, desecrated and plundered by the Crusaders, who also ousted the Patriarch of Constantinople and replaced him with a Latin bishop. This event cemented the division of the Greek Orthodox and Roman Catholic churches that had begun with the Great Schism of 1054. It also means that most of Hagia Sophia's riches can be seen today not in Istanbul, but in the St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice.
Despite this violent setback, Hagia Sophia remained a functioning church until May 29, 1453, when Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror entered triumphantly into the city of Constantinople. He was amazed at the beauty of the Hagia Sophia and immediately converted it into his imperial mosque.”
 Turkey-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 3 Jun 2017 at 09:43.
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29 May 2017
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The best views are from the upper galleries.
 Turkey-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 3 Jun 2017 at 09:42.
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31 May 2017
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The bridge between Europe and Asia that we will cross tomorrow!!!
 Turkey-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Then we wandered up and down the steep hills to Taksim square, bought some fancy Turkish delight, had coffee with some a very nice family from Saudi and then grabbed the tram back to the hotel.
 Turkey-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-61 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-60 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jun 2017
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We had a surprisingly painless exit from the city with only one 15 minute section with bumper to bumper cars. Again the locals are pretty aggressive with speed, passing, and cutting over many lanes and between the bikes. This is such a cosmopolitan city!
 Turkey Sivas-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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3 Jun 2017
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3 Jun 2017
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3 Jun 2017
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At the top of one of the passes we stopped for lunch. The owner did not speak English, but immediately called his cousin who did and Abdullah spent the next hour translating for us and making us feel very welcome. We had a great lunch and then bought some fresh cherries from their farm.
 Turkey Ankara-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Ankara-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-67 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Sivas-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Sivas-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We thought it was going to be a long day and we had planned to stop in Beyparasi or Ayas, but we all felt pretty good and decided to press onto the city. Better to fight the traffic now then before our appointment at 945 am. We had looked on line and hotels here are very expensive. In the end we picked one that was 10 km from the embassy, had underground parking, and ok rooms. It was still relatively expensive. The only problem was there were no restaurants within 3 km, but luckily the gas station next door had a cafe and they made us some pretty good cheese grill and burgers with fries.
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3 Jun 2017
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Today we are all feeling a bit stressed. We have read and heard so many things about how difficult and unfriendly the Turkmenistan people are and that the rejection rate for transit visas is 50%. We decided to take a cab, which was a good idea with the very bad traffic and the stress level. The driver was using Daniel’s GPS for turn by turn directions. Arriving there we found a much cheaper and very ok looking hotel directly across the street from the embassy! We buzzed the embassy gate at 930 and we were met by a friendly guy who asked Visas? and directed us to an office in the back of the building. Here there is a small window and 2 men at desks with stacks of passports. He later said they get 150 visa requests a day here!!! We said we wanted to arrange visas. He asked if we had Iran visas and if not we would have to come back when we did to apply for Turkmenistan….AGH!!! Orvar has his Iran visa so they said they would do his. Then we said that we had Uzbekistan, Russia, and China visas, but they were still not convinced. It was not until Orvar handed over his copy of the LOI that they changed there mind. We four are all on the same LOI….”yes you can get a transit visa, but you must fill out a different form than the one you have filled out from on line and “printed doubled sided and never folded”. OK done! Next you walk down the hill 400 m to the Turkish bank, pay your 55$ USD for urgent processing (regular 3-5 days is 35$ not sure who does this) and bring back your receipt. Voila in 15 minutes you have your visas!
 Turkey-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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3 Jun 2017
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The taxi back was much quicker as there was almost no traffic now. We packed up and were on the road by 1230. But first we had to bring the bikes up to the front of the hotel for a photo op for the bellman.
 IMG_2688 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The gang decided to press on today and try to make up a day and get to Sivas in 486 km. There is no way around the direct route on the 4 lane D200/E88. Boring but effective for making miles.
 Screen Shot 2017-05-25 at 23.19.46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We stopped for lunch about 2 and again received a warm welcome and a very nice lunch. No-one spoke English, but one spoke German and so does Orvar. I was invited to the kitchen to make sure that we wanted the Chicken kebabs they wanted to cook for us. They also requested an picture with us. We stopped about every hour and at the gas stop the owner came our with 4 hot cups of tea for us (never happening in Canada).
 Turkey-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We arrived to Sivas, which is a fairly big place of 300,000. There are lots of small hotels, but few with parking. We had decided on one, but then spotted another down the road. Daniel went to check it out. The man at the deck said “I don't speak English, but I will help you”. Done deal. They moved a car from the front door so we could park the 4 bikes where he could keep and eye on them. We went for a walk to the main street to find a local place to eat and we did manage to get a good grilled meat meal with some pointing and “salad”.
 Turkey-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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3 Jun 2017
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We all had the 430 am wake up call, but managed to get back to sleep. Today the forecast is for rain, but starting out it was sunny. For the 466 km ride to Trabzon over the mountains.
 Screen Shot 2017-05-26 at 20.59.47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Trabzon by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We went east and had to stop to put warmer clothes on as it was 9 degrees. After about 75 km on the E88 to Zara we then headed northeast thru the national park over the mountain pass on the D865.
 Screen Shot 2017-05-26 at 21.00.25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Screen Shot 2017-05-26 at 21.00.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road surface was fairly rough. We had to get the rain suits on because of looming black clouds, but with a few stops well timed we missed the worst of it.
 Turkey Trabzon-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Trabzon-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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3 Jun 2017
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3 Jun 2017
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The road climes to the snow line at 2200 m. On the downward side we stopped to see a bridal falls and the park rangers immediately invited us into their cabin for tea. About 15 km late we stopped in a small village to get some snacks at the market. Again several people came over to offer us tea (Chai). We finished the good part with a bit of construction and then hit the D10.
 Turkey Trabzon-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Trabzon-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Trabzon-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Turkey Trabzon-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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Next HU Events
ALL Dates subject to change.
2025 Confirmed Events:
- Virginia: April 24-27 2025
- Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
- Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
- CanWest: July 10-13 2025
- Switzerland: Date TBC
- Ecuador: Date TBC
- Romania: Date TBC
- Austria: Sept. 11-15
- California: September 18-21
- France: September 19-21 2025
- Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025
Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!
Questions about an event? Ask here
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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