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17 Jul 2017
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17 Jul 2017
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We did have a few Manat left from the guys score so we stopped in Turkmenabat for some really nice chicken stew. The owner gave us a break on the price or 42 Manat as we only had 32 after buying gas twice today. We offered him USD and he still said no it’s OK.
 Bukhara Uzbekistan-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
About 5 km from the border we were pulled over for a passport check (1). We arrived to the end of the M37 in Turkmenistan and there is a chain blocking the way. The officer comes out and wants to check all the passports (2) and then he lets us in the gate were there is another officer who checks and records the passports (3). You then drive about 300 meters to another check point where the officer asks for the passports sand then checks your ID with sunglasses off please (4). You then drive another 350 meters and park in the customs area. You have to go to the left or entry side since the right is a disaster and under construction. There are a few trucks here, but its basically deserted otherwise. We are directed into the office on the exit side and an officer asks for the TVIP papers. You then go into the customs room and there are several officers that look about 16 behind the desk. One of them asks for the passports (5) and registration. From here you proceed to passport control for an exit stamp (6) and they check your finger prints and facial scan. Now back out to the bike for customs check. They ask again for the passports (7) and the declaration papers. The kids inside did not do this and so one of the senior officers takes the passports back in (8) and returns with them and new declaration forms. They asked to look into a few of the pieces of luggage and asked if we had any guns, weapons, or drugs. We were finally allowed to leave the customs area. You ride about 200 meters to another check point and they asked for the passports again (9). Nine passport check and this is just to get out of the country. All this took just over an hour.
Now you ride another 300 meters up to a gate locked with a chain and pad lock. There seems to be several large trucks parked on the other side. An Officer came out to check the passports (1) and then told us to go in the out gate and park by the first building. Here the “doctor” who said he was an epidemiologist and he wanted to see the passports (2). He then asks if you have any illness and then points a non contact infrared thermometer at your forehead and tells you if it is normal. Both Dan and Trevor were over normal of 37.0, but he said they were ok. I measured only 37 despite wearing all my gear and sweating. He insisted i was hyperthermic and kept repeating it. i took off my jacket and cooled down and then it was 36.6 and he let me go. In the next room an officer records your passport (3). From here you drive 250 meters to park beside the customs office. Here you go in and present the passports (4) and vehicle registration. Another officer came out to give us declarations to fill in in duplicate (one for exit) . We then went into his office to of course have the passport checked (5) and he filled out the TVIP paperwork. This we had to sign. He then asked us to bring in all the luggage for x ray. Orvar went back to clarify and after some discussion he said ok just the big bags. That done he then wanted to see all the medication we had. He specifically wanted to know if we had narcotics or sleeping pills. He also asked if we had weapon or guns. After all this we are then directed to the exit gate and here we got one more passport (6) and ID check. he even made Trevor take off his helmet. Now we are very thirsty and hot and have no money, but as usual there are 6-7 money guys hovering outside. The official rate is 3900 :1 USD. Trevor was given 7000:1. There are 100 km of pretty much nothing to go. The road has stretches of 200-400 m that are good and then it goes to mostly holes. We finally found a small shop after 60 km to get water.
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17 Jul 2017
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Arriving to the city Orvar was leading and his GPS said go straight when ours said turn left. We followed him and ended up at the end of a road blocked by a concrete barrier. The local ladies sitting there said to just go thru straight so we did. We could just get by down the steep sides and then found ourselves in the pedestrian zone.
 Bukhara Uzbekistan-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We could also just squeeze by the posts on the otherwise and found ourselves 200 m from our hotel.
 Bukhara Uzbekistan-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukhara Uzbekistan-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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17 Jul 2017
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We hid out inside until after 7, but it was still 32 degrees then. We made our way to the centre, which has a large pond surrounded by restaurants and shops. It is very touristic here but we have not seen that in a while. There are lots of local tourists and their families here on holidays. The hotel rate is 8000:1 and the highest we were offered by the souvenir vendors was 8700:1. Can you say out of control inflation.
This is fairly small city and most of the sites can be seen by walking. We had a map printed at the desk and did a bit of a walking tour. Unlike Iran most of the old buildings are free to access.
 Bukara Uzbekistan-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Bukara Uzbekistan-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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17 Jul 2017
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An exception to the entry fee is the museum in the old fortress, but this was only 38000 for 4 of us. They have a nice collection of artifacts, some habitat and agriculture dioramas, and lots of historical photos.
 Bukara Uzbekistan-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
By 2 it was time to sit in the shade by the pond in the spray of the fountains for some lunch.
 Bukara Uzbekistan-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Now we were again hiding in the air con until after 8 when we ventured out for dinner. The food here is much better that we had in Iran and we even had really amazing Kebab. For 4 people with  it is about 20$ US.
We had filled up with gas before leaving Turkmenistan and so we had plenty of fuel to make it to Samarkand. We had however not seen a benzene station either. We should have guessed there was an issue when the money changers asked us if we wanted benzene.
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17 Jul 2017
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Today we have 287 km north east to Samarkand another of the oldest cities in central Asia. The road is pretty good, but some sections are a disaster. The drivers here however and for the most part normal and courteous. We did get a lot of honks and waves. There are plenty of fuel stations, but none sell benzene. 90% of the vehicles here run on methane or propane. If there is any benzene for sale at a station they line up for hours and then drain the tank. Most of it is smuggled from Tajikistan.
 Screen Shot 2017-07-02 at 18.33.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We stopped about half way to buy a cold drink and parked in the shade outside a house. Within 2 minutes the grandmother was out talking to me in Uzbek. She called to her grandson, who spoke a few words of English. Her granddaughter the arrived who spoke English well. They offered us fresh fruits and to visit their hoe for shade. They wanted us to stay so they could prepare the Uzbek national dish for us Pilaff, but that may take hours and its 38 degrees.
 Uzbekistan-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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17 Jul 2017
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The only other strange thing was a particular car with 4 shady looking men in it who followed us for at least 150 km. I guess they though they were being covert, but we all saw them. When we took a last minute left at a fork in the road they went right, but obviously turned around and continued to stock us. They followed us an stopped at a distance when we stopped. This included at the hotel. The one we had on our itinerary turned out not to be where we were booked. We were in another hotel of this group 1.5 km away. This was good since it had secure parking and the other did not. They followed us to the second hotel too. Very creepy. After parking i went out front and they were gone for now!
 Samarkand by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There were as I said a ton of service stations in the 287 km, but we never saw an open one that had benzene. We had enough gas to go all the way, but we gave some to Trevor from the jerry can to top us in the last 6o km.
The hotel has as usual poor internet, but great air con. I was totally overheated and a cold shower and a rest fixed that. The guys went down the street and had a kg of bbq chicken, 3 big s, and 6 vodka shots for 9$!
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17 Jul 2017
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Today we went for a walk to see some of the other main sights of the city, but retreated at 1 because of the heat. We ventured out for another chicken feed at 6 and then did complete the walking circuit. We ran into several English students we had met last night and again had some practice time with them.
 Samarkand Uzbekistan-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Samarkand Uzbekistan-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Samarkand Uzbekistan-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Samarkand Uzbekistan-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Samarkand Uzbekistan-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
No sign of our stockers all day….Now the issues we need to deal with is we need benzene and to exchange some cash. Luckily the manager of the hotel can call a guy!! 1030 pm he shows up with his trunk full of bottles of benzene and a stack of bills for exchange. That was easy.
 Uzbekistan-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 18 Jul 2017 at 05:56.
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17 Jul 2017
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This must be the most civilized ride into a capital city every. There was gas for sale on the side of the road on the outskirts. The traffic is not bad and they follow the rules of the road here. We have found disrespect for the planet and other humans goes together. So places covered in garbage have terrible drivers. This country is CLEAN! We arrived to the hotel and it is 42 degrees.
 Uzbekistan-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We did not venture out until after 7. We walked in to the city centre, but the entire area of the independence square and parliament was blocked off at every entrance by police. You could not get in to the park at all. We made our way down to Amir Square to find some dinner.
Today we walked 3 km in the heat to the main Bazaar, which is fruits and veg and a lot of cheap stuff from China. Luckily we could get the metro back.
 Uzbekistan-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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17 Jul 2017
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Contributing Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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We chilled out in the hotel until 3 when we were to meet the travel agent Aliya from Carivanistan and to whom we had shipped the speed sensor. She was kind enough to drop it off.
 Uzbekistan-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
A few days ago we noted what looked like a small nail in the rear of the 650 it was below the tread and we decided not to pull it out until we were in spot for a while. Today was the day and it was actually a huge nail. We tried the mushroom plugs we have, but they did not work at all. I wonder if they are damaged from the high heat? Luckily Orvar has some normal rope plugs and that worked great. First flat in 5 years.
 Uzbekistan-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Uzbekistan-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Tonight we took a taxi to Caravan a traditional Uzbek restaurant for some Pilaf.
This country certainly feels like a police state. We had no issues, but we saw locals being flagged over for checks constantly. There are police on the side of the road frequently. There are also police check points on the roadways. We were waved thru at all but one of these the entire time we were here. They were more curious than confrontational. There are police everywhere on the streets in the city. The control of the population here is palpable. The black market here is a huge problem for the people except the few who profit massively from it.
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2017 at 13:33.
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18 Jul 2017
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Folks, I'm loving the story and some of the awesome pics of the buildings and tile work; keep it coming.
Cheers
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18 Jul 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troppy
Folks, I'm loving the story and some of the awesome pics of the buildings and tile work; keep it coming.
Cheers
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Thanks so much! Just trying to catch up. We are in Osh Kyrgyzstan now and so I am several weeks behind! There will be lots of vistas from the Pamir! Sara
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
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"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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