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29 Jul 2017
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Contributing Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
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July 13 Dekh to Khorog 118 km
 Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.20.19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We were up several times in the night and eventually got up at 730 when the room started to fill with smoke from the fire they had lit outside. This was all topped off by the guy demanding 200 somoni (23 USD) a person for food, the non room, no shower, no hot water, no bathroom, and certainly no wifi. We had all this for 80 (9 USD) in Tavildara and this place should be 50 at most. Dan said you must think I am crazy and paid him 100 a person which he accepted. I hate being ripped off.
 Tajik Pamir-86 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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It is 56 km to Rushon and as we arrived there Trevor had a front flat. Long story short 3 hours in the heat to get out. The first tube had a tiny hole and the patch was good, but we could not set the bead and it did not seem to hold air. This tube out again and no evidence of anther hole or patch leak. New tube in and still could not set the bead. We have never had this issue before with Dan’s 6 flats using our pump. In the end we put it back on the bike and left and so far so good. The Heidenau are so stiff and this may be the issue.
 Tajik Pamir-91 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Yet another check point. We found they call ahead since when we arrived before the other 2 the guard asked us where they were.
 Tajikistan khorong-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan khorong-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan khorong-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-92 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-93 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-94 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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We had just 67 km to go to Khorog and arrived about 2. We gassed up with some 95 and then check out the hotels on offer and it is pretty bad. Just out of town is the Pamir lodge frequented by foreigners and we headed there just in time as at 3 pm the town was shutting down and closing the roads to access here for the “Diamond Jubilee”. This is several venues around town open only to residents and there is loudspeakers blaring. They really had guards blocking off the roads. One Swiss couple had to park their car on the back street of the lodge because the guards would not let them drive it 20 meters to the lodge gate. We did walk the 2 km into town and went to the Indian restaurant. Both Orvar and Sara have bad colds and were in bed by 6. The party outside went on until midnight.
 Tajikistan khorong-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-95 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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People were still celebrating in the villages and one particular group of women was dancing in the street and Sara joined in.
 Tajik Pamir-99 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-101 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-100 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-102 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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About 1230 we came upon a “hotel/spa” and restaurant for lunch. Just after we left the lunch spot we hit some more ripio and Dan’s 800 cut out. It restarted and then cut out again. It ran fine in Neutral. Hmmm we hoped it was the battery connection and luckily for us it was. The negative had been shaken loose with the very rough roads of the last few days.
 Tajikistan Pagol-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road from here was still mostly surface with patches of gravel until about the 150 km mark.
 Tajik Pamir-105 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-106 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-107 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-108 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-109 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-110 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-111 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-113 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-116 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Our tax dollars at work!
 Tajik Pamir-115 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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After the 150 km mark there were long stretches of deeper gravel and one particularly deep sand section that claimed Trevor and Sara.
 Tajikistan Pagol-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-118 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-119 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-120 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-121 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-122 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-124 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Pagol-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-125 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-126 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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29 Jul 2017
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We did keep going as we did not find anywhere to camp with any shelter. Finally at about 4 we came across a homes tay with a walled yard that was across the river from Pagol Afganistan. We could camp here with breakfast for 5$. The toilet in a long drop, but odour free. The “douche” was awesome. They have a huge metal barrel filled with water on a electric burner device and it was glorious. You stood in the tub and poured clean hot water over yourself! The tents and gear set up done it was time to cook our pasta and sauce with mars bars for dessert. The camp is at 3000 m, which is a bit high for us as we were at 2500 m last night and with the head colds Sara and Orvar did suffer. We are glad to be inside the walls as the evening thermal wind is brisk and gusting.
 Tajikistan Pagol-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-127 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-128 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-129 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-131 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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30 Jul 2017
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July 15 “Pagol" to Murgab
Today the plan was to get another 1/3 of the way to Murgab at least. We were up at 6 as we were in bed at asleep at 830. But first some breakfast and we hit the road just before 9.
 Tajik Pamir-132 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-133 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The more we think about it the more we think we can make it all the way to Murgab today. Google will not route that way so here is the SPOT map. It is about 300 km and all but the last 130 km is unpaved.
 Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.11.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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30 Jul 2017
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When we head north off the river and the Afghan border the fist section is 6 tight, steep, rocky off camber switchbacks, but then the road surface is mostly firm going up into the mountains. There are just a few short sandy sections to contend with.
 Tajikistan Murgab-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-138 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-141 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-142 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajik Pamir-143 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tajikistan Murgab-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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Next HU Events
ALL Dates subject to change.
2025 Confirmed Events:
- Virginia: April 24-27 2025
- Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
- Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
- CanWest: July 10-13 2025
- Switzerland: Date TBC
- Ecuador: Date TBC
- Romania: Date TBC
- Austria: Sept. 11-15
- California: September 18-21
- France: September 19-21 2025
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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