Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Ride Tales, Trip Reports and Stories > Ride Tales
Ride Tales Post your ride reports for a weekend ride or around the world. Please make the first words of the title WHERE the ride is. Please do NOT just post a link to your site. For a link, see Get a Link.
Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



Like Tree177Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #2431  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
We are headed to the border and no civilization in sight. There is then a section of paved road for about 20 km and a few far scattered homes and yurts. This fence is marking the deputed zone with China and it goes on forever.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-226 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-228 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-229 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-230 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-232 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2432  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
The pavement ends again before the road rises up to the second pass and the washboard combined with the gale force winds made for a challenge for about 10 km.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Pamir-233 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Finally the road heads up again and the mud surface is smoother and firm.

Tajik Pamir by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2433  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
The approach to the Tajikistan border is huge mud ruts from trucks. It would be a nightmare here in the rain. You stop at the first gate and hand your customs declaration to the agent and then “you can go”. We figured we needed an exit passport stamp so we kept going past the construction site to a small office to get it. Then they raise the gate to “no man’s land”.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2434  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
The road here is hard packed mud and rises to the next summit at 4285 M. It is very windy here as well.

Tajik Kyrgy Border by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2435  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Perth, Scotland
Posts: 201
Quote:
Originally Posted by saralou View Post

On the down side of the summit the road gets pretty bad. The washboard is horrible and bone shattering. It was so bad Trevor’s mirror actually broke off while he was riding.
Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?
Reply With Quote
  #2436  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondelli View Post
Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?

Damn Honda Quality it will probably be the only one. They were cheap Chinese after market mirrors!!
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2437  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
The clay/mud road is firm if a bit rough. There are a number of switchback as well. You go about 20 km to the next border for Krygyzstan. We saw about 15 bikes on a Polish tour headed up the hill at 330 pm. Not sure where they expect to get to this late in the day.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajik Kyrgy Border-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2438  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
Here you stop at passport control and the agent asks for your passport and registration. Very friendly and professional. After this you go 200 m to customs. Here they want the same info and 10$ for customs clearance. Krygyzstan , Kazakstan, and Russia are a customs zone and we are now cleared for all 3 and we have 2 months.

The road from the border is paved is a bit pot holed and we have just 25 km to Sary-Tash. Some kids had blocked the road with donkeys and clearly wanted a toll to pass, but there were one donkey short of a barricade.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_ by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2439  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
We rolled into the “town” at about 5 and there arrived to the one hotel in the GPS.

Kyrgy_-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Hotel is a loose term it is one room with a dais and you supply your own bedding. There is an outhouse and no shower. While Trevor was inside checking it out a couple walked up and asked if he was travelling with Dan and Sara! This is Graham and Katrina Perkins who we have been following as they came west across Asia on their Africa twin. There had seen the bikes come into town from their hostel nearby.

Tajikistan Sary-Tash-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were not keen on either of these 2 options. A guy rolled up in a car and said he was a tour operator and had a house for rent. We followed him out of town, across a cow field to a house with no running water, an outhouse and a single room again. Ah NO.

We then wound our way father thru the fields and the village back roads to the main highway where we had seen a restaurant and hotel. Very nice family. There had room with no beds, but they sleep on several layers of mats and gave us pillows and duvets. There is of course only outhouses, but they have running water. The owner is the chef and his wife the manager and she speaks English. She arranged for me to have a shower at a friends house about 150 m away. This was a hot steamy tiled room with a cement floor and a drain. There is a huge boiler at one side and a barrel of cold water to mix in for the best pour over shower ever! The price was right too. 15$ each for room, dinner, and breakfast. They also had wifi at least to check in after 4 days off line.

Kyrgy_-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2440  
Old 4 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
The total SPOT of the Pamir and Wakhan Valley route! The dots are 15 minute intervals!

Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.51.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Last edited by saralou; 5 Aug 2017 at 12:07.
Reply With Quote
  #2441  
Old 5 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
July 17 Sary-Tash to Osh July 17-19

Despite sleeping on mats on the floor we actually all did well. We were up about 9 and after breakfast packed to go by 11. Our host (and chef) and his son.

Kyrgy_-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had a short 185 km to Osh on a silky paved road.

Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.32.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We are still at 3600 m and cross one more pass to 4200 and then its down down down! Finally adequate O2. At the top of the pass there were a few kids selling milk and this one 12 year old boy spoke and read English perfectly. Drivers here are courteous and there is little traffic. We had no issues with the police despite what we had been told.

Kyrgy_-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2442  
Old 5 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
We passed thru quite a few villages in lush valleys.


Kyrgyzstan Osh by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgyzstan Osh-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgyzstan Osh-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2443  
Old 5 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
It did start to rain mid way and we took shelter and made coffee in a bus top. This drew quite a crowd of curious kids.

Kyrgyzstan Osh-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2444  
Old 5 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
Arriving to the city it was 28 degrees and there was some traffic to deal with, but the hotel was easy access off the 41.

Kyrgyzstan Osh-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Kyrgy_-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had booked into a 4* hotel for 2 nights to really relax and get caught up on bike maintenance and RR. To be honest we wanted good wifi and a big TV so we could watch the first episode of Game of Thrones!!!

Kyrgyzstan Osh-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy Osh by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
  #2445  
Old 5 Aug 2017
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,579
Dan pulled the wheel off the 650 and took it around the corner to the tire shop for proper patching. We also noted earlier in the week that there was a small oil leak from the stator gasket and when we checked the oil it was fine, but when we checked today it was down. Orvar luckily has a later of oil and we topped up. We also sealed the leak with some high temp sealant, but we will keep an eye on the stator for a failure in the near future.

We had been in contact with Janet and Charlie Russel since we were in South America and now we find we are finally in the same spot. They delayed their departure to meet with us and exchange info on our respective routes. They are deciding how they will get to Dushanbe after hearing the lower route is now blocked. We had the opportunity to hear about their experience in Russia and Mongolia.

Kyrgy Osh-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
__________________
Sara

Those who say something is impossible should not hinder those who are achieving it!






www.worldwideride.ca

HU RR Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 54 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 54 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Round the world on a DR-z400 petefoulkes Ride Tales 33 30 Dec 2012 00:01
Ride for Rangers ozranger Make a Difference 1 28 Nov 2012 01:13
22 ride guides available for central Veracruz and eastern Puebla, Mexico MikeMike Central America and Mexico 11 6 Sep 2012 13:44
Rally Around the World First-Leg Ride - Nasvhville TN - Sat July 28, 2012 Bradthompson59 Motorcycle Events around the world 0 6 Jul 2012 22:49
Around the World in 80 Movies jopos Ride Tales 0 17 May 2012 09:45

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

25 years of HU Events
Be sure to join us for this huge milestone!

ALL Dates subject to change.

2025 Confirmed Events:

Virginia: April 24-27 2025
Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
CanWest: July 10-13 2025
Switzerland: Date TBC
Ecuador: Date TBC
Romania: Date TBC
Austria: Sept. 11-14
California: September 18-21
France: September 19-21 2025
Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 14:32.