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4 Aug 2017
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
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4 Aug 2017
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Perth, Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saralou
On the down side of the summit the road gets pretty bad. The washboard is horrible and bone shattering. It was so bad Trevor’s mirror actually broke off while he was riding.
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Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?
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4 Aug 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondelli
Does that count as a breakdown for the Honda?
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Damn Honda Quality it will probably be the only one. They were cheap Chinese after market mirrors!!
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4 Aug 2017
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Here you stop at passport control and the agent asks for your passport and registration. Very friendly and professional. After this you go 200 m to customs. Here they want the same info and 10$ for customs clearance. Krygyzstan , Kazakstan, and Russia are a customs zone and we are now cleared for all 3 and we have 2 months.
The road from the border is paved is a bit pot holed and we have just 25 km to Sary-Tash. Some kids had blocked the road with donkeys and clearly wanted a toll to pass, but there were one donkey short of a barricade.
Tajikistan Sary-Tash-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_ by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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4 Aug 2017
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We rolled into the “town” at about 5 and there arrived to the one hotel in the GPS.
Kyrgy_-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Hotel is a loose term it is one room with a dais and you supply your own bedding. There is an outhouse and no shower. While Trevor was inside checking it out a couple walked up and asked if he was travelling with Dan and Sara! This is Graham and Katrina Perkins who we have been following as they came west across Asia on their Africa twin. There had seen the bikes come into town from their hostel nearby.
Tajikistan Sary-Tash-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We were not keen on either of these 2 options. A guy rolled up in a car and said he was a tour operator and had a house for rent. We followed him out of town, across a cow field to a house with no running water, an outhouse and a single room again. Ah NO.
We then wound our way father thru the fields and the village back roads to the main highway where we had seen a restaurant and hotel. Very nice family. There had room with no beds, but they sleep on several layers of mats and gave us pillows and duvets. There is of course only outhouses, but they have running water. The owner is the chef and his wife the manager and she speaks English. She arranged for me to have a shower at a friends house about 150 m away. This was a hot steamy tiled room with a cement floor and a drain. There is a huge boiler at one side and a barrel of cold water to mix in for the best pour over shower ever! The price was right too. 15$ each for room, dinner, and breakfast. They also had wifi at least to check in after 4 days off line.
Kyrgy_-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Kyrgy_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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4 Aug 2017
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The total SPOT of the Pamir and Wakhan Valley route! The dots are 15 minute intervals!
Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.51.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 5 Aug 2017 at 12:07.
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5 Aug 2017
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5 Aug 2017
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Dan pulled the wheel off the 650 and took it around the corner to the tire shop for proper patching. We also noted earlier in the week that there was a small oil leak from the stator gasket and when we checked the oil it was fine, but when we checked today it was down. Orvar luckily has a later of oil and we topped up. We also sealed the leak with some high temp sealant, but we will keep an eye on the stator for a failure in the near future.
We had been in contact with Janet and Charlie Russel since we were in South America and now we find we are finally in the same spot. They delayed their departure to meet with us and exchange info on our respective routes. They are deciding how they will get to Dushanbe after hearing the lower route is now blocked. We had the opportunity to hear about their experience in Russia and Mongolia.
Kyrgy Osh-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
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Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
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"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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