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23 Sep 2017
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Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
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About 40 km from Sukhbaatar it really starts to look a lot more like Russia and not Mongolia at all. This town is a “shit” town and the nicest looking hotel and restaurant are both shut down. We did find an ok place, but no hot water. There is a big Korean influence here and that improved our dinner selections!!
 North to The Russian Border-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We heard a bike pull into the parking after 10 and it was Nicholas from Barcelona that we had met at the Oasis. He left 2 hours after we did and it took him 3 hours to cross the city in traffic. In the end we did not have a bad night and slept well. Another surprise is they actually served us breakfast (congee and friend dough).
 Ulaanbaatar to Russia Border-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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23 Sep 2017
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We have 262 km to Ulan Ude and first thing we all gassed up ad set out the 24 km to the border. Nicholas decided he wanted to ride with us today even though he plans to go 719 km to Irkusk today. He says he rode all the way across Russia and never met any other riders and he is dying for some conversation.
 Screen Shot 2017-08-22 at 23.18.03 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It was a chilly 12 degrees when we set out and the sky is cloudy, but rain is not in the forecast. Driving up to the border we passed by a line of trucks and were whisked thru the first gate. We lined up at the second gate to wait to be let in. The border guard was young and friendly and spoke English well. Once you are inside the gate you go around the other side of the building an hand over you passport. Here they enter your data into the computer and stamp you out. That’s it you are out of Mongolia in 10 minutes.
 North to The Russian Border-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulaanbaatar to Russia Border-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 23 Sep 2017 at 15:58.
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23 Sep 2017
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Contributing Member
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They opened a second line and we moved up not that this would help time wise. You have to go to the first window to get your visa checked and entry stamp. They are very specific to blue light scan every page of your passport and spent a good few minutes inspecting each persons documents. Next you need to fill in your customs clearance forms. They are in Russian, but they have examples posted in English. This took forever and the woman who was doing the forms was a battle axe. A huge bus showed up and so Dan and Sara who were last were then sent to another office where a very pleasant woman did the last 2 forms very quickly. We also met up with the two Swiss riders here as well. It took 3 hours and almost all of this was the getting into Russia part. WOW.
 North to The Russian Border-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 23 Sep 2017 at 15:59.
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23 Sep 2017
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The next good thing was there is a launderette a few blocks away as well. The hotel wanted to charge by the piece and this would be about 100$ where the laundry mat was 6$. The very nice lady here did the wash, dry, and fold. You even pay at a kiosk.
 Ulan Ude-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We also found a great Chinese restaurant close by! NO goat or mutton!
 Ulan Ude Russia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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23 Sep 2017
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It is not raining today and it is a bit warmer. We had a late start, but managed to get our the door about 11. We took a walk across the tracks and then down to the old town.
 Ulan Ude Russia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Here they have a massive Lenin bust in the main square. The ballet is nearby and several nice cafes.
 Ulan Ude Russia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Ulan Ude Russia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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23 Sep 2017
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23 Sep 2017
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The original plan today was to head out to Lake Baikal and find a place to stay overnight. The options are ger camps or cabins. Since it is forecast for rain we are not too keen on tenting. The ride out is 169 km and getting out of the city was easy.
 Screen Shot 2017-08-26 at 15.45.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
About 25 km from town you head over a pass and it was raining foggy and 5 degrees. It improved quite a bit on the far side at least as far as the rain.
 Lake Baikal-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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23 Sep 2017
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The “beaches” along the lake south of the towns were covered in garbage! The wind is howling and the lake is white caps. We arrived to the Ger place in Gremiatchinsk, that we had seen on bookings and it was totally tragic. It is a few ratty gers in a sand parking lot with the full brunt of the wind. The next town Tourka is over is 6 km and they do have some other accommodation, but it is sketch and double the price of the comfy hotel we had last night. We did have a nice lunch with a view of the lake.
 Russia Lake Biakal by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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23 Sep 2017
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So back to Ulan Ude it is!!! The trip back was much nicer as the sun was shining. They thought it was very funny when we showed back up at the hotel.
Screen Shot 2017-08-26 at 15.45.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Lake Baikal-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
This small trip had also convinced us that we do not want to ride 1400 km thru more Siberian forrest to the eastern Mongolian border. This seems now a crazy waste of time and tire tread. We will wait out the bad weather here for a couple of days and then head back to Mongolia. We can then have 2 weeks to loops about as we like.
We are basically hiding out the few days of rainy weather in a comfortable place with great wifi. This means we have all been able to catch up the last 6 weeks of the blogs. This also means we can avoid the 10 km of the road that turn to a mud pit in the rain (it took Nicholas 3 hours).
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25 Sep 2017
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The forecast is for no rain today, but it was still only 6 degrees when we set out the 230 km to the border. The plan is to get there and depending on the weather and the time for the border we will with stay at the border town of Altanbulag where there is 1 hotel or go 120 km to Darkhan where there are lots of hotels.
 Screen Shot 2017-08-28 at 18.48.29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We stopped again at the same and only spot to have some coffee and soup to warm up and this is 80 km from the border. The road was dry and no issue with mud. There is a police check just before the border and they record your passport info.
 Darkan Contour by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Darkan Contour-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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25 Sep 2017
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Contributing Member
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We gassed up to get rid of some Rubles at the border. Then lined up at the exit gate. They kept letting all the trucks in and we had to wait over 45 minutes just to get access to the border area.
 Darkan Contour-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
From here you ride 300 m to the customs clearance. You are directed to park outside and there are vehicles going in both directions here. This place is total chaos. You have to go up the stairs 2 flights (follow the pictures of cars and the arrows). There is a room with desks behind glass, a bunch of numbers are posted on the glass, and 50 people waving are passports and customs documents covered with dozens of stamps. After 15 min of no queuing going on and only 1 of the 3 agents seeming to be doing anything Trevor pushed his paper to the front and said CANADA. The agent took his paper immediately, scanned his QRS code, signed it and gave it right back. That was enough for all of us to then do the same and get served right away.
 Darkan Contour-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Then you go outside and the same mean Russian lady as last week was there to check your paper and then 3 agents searched your luggage. They kept asking if we had weapons or drugs specifically Tramadol. 1.5 hours and we were finally done.
Then you ride 300 m to the Mongolian entry gate. There is no agent there and we waited until a truck came and they opened the other gate. We were told to follow him thru the decontamination bath of spuge. Here you are supposed to then stop and return back to the guardhouse. The want your passport and moto paper and give you a paper with boxes on it for your stamps. They enter all your data into the computer. Then you ride down 400m and park under the covered area. Here the agent stamps your paper the first time. You go inside to passport control to get an entry stamp. Then you must pay for the decontamination. Here there is a bit of a scam as the local are paying 1000 T (.50$) but the woman asked us for 100R ($2) Trevor called her on it and she gave us the local price. Next you go to customs clearance for the bosses stamp. He enters your data also by chicken pecking on the key board. Then you go out to get a final stamp on the paper and you are done. 1.5 hours as well. Then you ride 300 m to the exit gate where they check you have all your stamps. There is again a fake insurance person and a tax office outside the border zone and we just rode by. It is cold an windy and now 4 pm, but we headed south.
 Darkan Contour-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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