 168Likes
 |
|
25 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
The last 70 km were hell with the truck traffic. We had 4 police checks today and we made it thru with the bike as cargo. It is illegal to have cargo and passengers in the same vehicle in China. The guides told the police that Trevor was too sick to ride and appealed to their sympathy. It worked for day 1. We arrived to Shannan and finally found THE gas station for bikes. With all the “issues” of China/Tibet with government control and insane rules this was 1 hour to get gas for 3 bikes. Finally to the hotel at 715. This is a common design feature in the bathrooms of China…. Not so good for Orvar and Trevor! The shower in the toilet/sink space is not ever a good idea!
 IMG_0252 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_0253 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We walked to a local place for dinner and the whole kitchen staff came out to check us out. We had tea leaves deep-fried with pork and chillies, cauliflower with bacon in a hot pot, shrimps and vegetable, and glutenous rice with pork.
 IMG_0255 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_0260 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_0261 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Now what to do with Lulu? Our options for the next 5 days in Tibet and to keep her in the van and hope the police will let us go. This means Sara must ride in the van a play sick at the checks. This means we could be fined 40-400$ if the police refuse to let us thru. The other option is to try and find a truck in Tibet, which will prove very difficult and very expensive. We will take our chances. From Shangri-La in China we could have ride China pre-arrange a truck to transport Lulu from there the 5 days to the Chinese/Laos border. This still leaves us with a broken bike there, but there is “not a no mans land there” and we would only have to "push the bike 200 m” to get to Laos according to Toni. We should be able to get a truck easily there as well according to MotoLaos. We also need to have the shock shipped asap from Thailand.
|
26 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
Today we thought we would have 451 km to Nyingchi (Nyinzhi).
 Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.32.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
I had consulted the Ride China itinerary and it was clear to me that a portion of the day was unpaved or pavement in poor repair. I thought for Trevor’s back this would be an issue and so I consulted our “guide” Toni. He assured me the road was entirely paved and “exactly like today’s road”. It will become obvious later that he had no idea what the road is like and just blew me off with what he thought I wanted to hear. Trevor is well enough to ride today and we set out just after 830. We had gone 50 km and thru 2 police checks to find the road closed for construction and we were sent on a detour to the next road over and this rejoins our original route. Then another 10 km later we are at another police check and It is clear to me from the arm waving of the police to other drivers that there is an issue ahead. I bring this up with the guides and they again blew me off. We went another 25 km up the mountainside on switchbacks to a 4 th police check with a gate blocking the road. They say the road ahead is very bad and too rough for the van. So back track 40 km to the more major road and finally head east. It is slow going in the van with the speed camera and the point to point speed checks.
 Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.33.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_0265 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
I lost count of the number of check point we went thru today. One even had dogs sniffing the van inside and out. None of the police seemed to care there was a motorcycle in the van. We stopped for lunch at 3 and we still have 234 km to go. There was gas here and that took 20 min for the 3 bikes of course. After lunch there were very few checkpoints and at most we were just waved thru.
We were still 88 km from the city at 645 and it will be dark at 730. The guys were ahead and as there were no real check points they ended up 12 km from town on the secondary road (motos not allowed on the express way) when they called us. We had just spent 5 min sitting on the side of the road to make the minimum time for the point to point speed cameras and we are 50 km from town. The driver decides we must have gas with 50 Km to go! We pull into the gas station where there are 3 cars in line. They gate off the stations here that have 6-8 pumps, but only let one vehicle in at a time and only after registering with the police. We pulled in and the driver got out to register for gas and when he got back he pulled in behind the third car. After 10 min 2 cars had moved and another policeman came to tell him that he must have cut in and go to the back of the line which now has 10 cars in it. (Much yelling and arguing in Chinese followed) and we left.
It is now 745 dark and raining. I had told the guide that the guys were on the secondary road at a gas station 12 km from town with no-one in line. Despite that they flew by the turn off and onto the expressway. AGH! Lucky I could call the guys back and they went to town to the first exit of the expressway. We had 50 km to go and the tank supposedly on fumes. We did meet them luckily since the guides idea was to send them the name of the hotel in Chinese and told them to ask for directions. I informed him that would not help much as they were highly unlikely to understand the Chinese directions. 2 km from the hotel the driver again decides he should get gas at a station with 8 cars in line! Its 9 pm and raining and the guys have been on their bikes for 12 hours except the 20 min for lunch. I though Dan would loose it. Luckily the pair of them changed their minds and went directly to the hotel instead. That said we are all pissed off and shattered when we arrived to the hotel at 9 pm showered, and went straight to bed without dinner.
|
26 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
Dan and Sara had a team meeting at breakfast to discuss our concerns with how it went yesterday (total disaster). We stated that we know it is not the Chinese way to confront issues like this directly, but that it is the western way and we need to deal with the problem before we can go on. We said that the guides inability to admit he did not know the road, caused us not to have enough information to make a different decision, and eventually caused the riders personal safety to be jeopardized. If we were on our own we would not have just blindly gone with an injured rider. We vented and said our safety depends on them and we need to be able to trust them. We decided to put it in the past and move on. We also again expressed how grateful we are to Mr. Tang for transporting the bike and of course we do not expect him to do this for free.
Today at Mr Tang’s suggestion we cut the itinerary short to just 231 km to Bome (Pome), so that we could have a shorter day and also stay in a bit larger town with more hotel options than the one we originally planned and is farther down the road.
 Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.34.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road is curvy most of the day and we had a few sprinkles of rain until the last 10 km when it was heavier. Sara was in the van today for the first 100 km and until the first traffic police stop. Unlike the checkpoints who could care less about the bike in the van the traffic police were very concerned. They were actually more upset that a foreigner was IN the van as our permits here are only for “riding on a motorcycle” and not riding in a car/van. They decided to let us thru with a warning, but as soon as we caught up to the guys she suited up and rode with Dan.
 IMG_0270 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
|
27 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Posts: 198
|
|
|
Amazing as always guys, sorry to hear about the issues. Looks like road fatigue is setting in big time now, be good to get some R&R in Oz methinks. Keep on keeping on!
Gino
|
27 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
|
Yes we are burnt! We have rearranged our schedule to take the pressure off. Also getting into Thailand was a huge relief.
We spent the day at YSS and they cheered us up with custom build front and rear suspensions for both bikes. A silver lining to the disaster. They were even personally adjusted for us by the head of their race division who flew in from Amsterdam today coincidentally for the Chaing Mai bike week.
Cheers.
SP
|
27 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
There were only 2 other minor stops the rest of the day and they were not concerned with the bike in the van PHEW! The other nice thing today was there was very little traffic and almost no heavy trucks. The views are mostly from the valley floor along the river except for first thing when we ascended one pass to 3000 m . We saw a lot of bicycle riders on their way to Lhasa and quite a few pilgrims as well.
 Tibet_-48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We arrived to Bome just after 4 and managed to get gas in less than 30 min. We of course had 1.5 l too much and they freaked out when we suggested the jerry can and so we gave it to the girl on the scooter behind us in line and she was thrilled!
The hotel is across the river in the new/Chinese part of town, but very nice. It started to pour just after we got here and it is pretty chilly. They have electric heating pads on the bed (which is still hard and like sleeping on plywood) We are getting closer to Sichuan and Yunnan and the food is spicier here for sure.
 IMG_0273 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We have heard from YSS Suspension and they will ship us the shock to Luang Prabang ASAP!! We have also been in contact with the riding community and have had advise and offers of help from Gt-Riders, Ride Asia, and Moto Laos! Thanks to you all for assisting us!
|
27 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
Today we have a whopping 410 km to Zogang and 2 passes with the first just over 4600 and the second at 5000m. This will be a slow day of switchbacks especially with the rainy weather predicted. The van is the limiting factor mostly because of the point to point speed cameras. It poured rain all night and it was still light rain at 715 am when we loaded up in the underground parking. It was light just before 730 and we set out. Sara opted for the van with the 5 degrees and rain, but it actually cleared up pretty quickly.
The road is very good and there is really very little traffic. There was only one real military check point today and they did not care about the bike. The rest of the day there were 3-4 police checkpoints, but none of them even looked at us when we slowly rode by. We made it just over 100 km and over the first pass to have breakfast about 945. It was still raining on and off until about 20 min later and Sara was able to finally get out of the van and pillion again.
 FILE2996 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3057 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
“Pillion’s view”
 FILE3055 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
|
27 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
The views are stunning as we ride along the river canyon.
 FILE3068 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3071 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3081 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3088 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3117 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE3121 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
|
28 Nov 2017
|
|
Registered Users
HUBB regular
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 30
|
|
|
Your ogoning adVenture
Hello your pictures are beyond description. You mention Shangrila in one of your comments (one of my required readings in junior high school.). Really empathizing with the things you were expierincing as you were getting close to Laos. Hope you made connection and got your shock replaced. You guys are amazing and I have adopted your moto. I'm sure destiny is favoring your future. I hope to meet you down the road. Have ridden all the lower 48 states.
|
28 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lectron
Hello your pictures are beyond description. You mention Shangrila in one of your comments (one of my required readings in junior high school.). Really empathizing with the things you were expierincing as you were getting close to Laos. Hope you made connection and got your shock replaced. You guys are amazing and I have adopted your moto. I'm sure destiny is favoring your future. I hope to meet you down the road. Have ridden all the lower 48 states.
|
Thanks the photos are Dan! Shangri La was a bit dissapointing actually, but that is OK since the places we had never heard of like Lijiang were not. Yes the brutal pace was taking its toll finally in the last days in China and we just wanted to get out of there! We were so lucky YSS shipped the shock to Luang Prabang for us and Dan installed it. We were blessed as well to visit their factory in Bangkok yesterday where they gifted us custom front and rear suspensions for both bikes!! Incredible silver lining to the disaster in Tibet. So you were so correct about our being favored! We will be back in NA in the spring and plan to make the moto GP in Austin. Cheers and thanks so much for the comments. SP & DP
|
28 Nov 2017
|
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: RTW, From Vancouver BC 2012
Posts: 3,491
|
|
There is not much to see from the summit itself and then it is all down hill for the rest of the afternoon. This was lucky as there were no gas stations for the last 200 km and we all had great fuel economy with the down hill finish.
 Tibet_-64 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Tibet_-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Getting gas today was no issue and we were the only bikes there. The woman in the office could not be bothered with all the paperwork needed to sell foreigners gas and so she said just go to the next window and pay. Normally they give you this pink form to get gas, but today it was a blank paper with the 100 RMB we had paid written on it. So easy. We still needed to use the metal cans of course.
 Tibet_ by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Then we have a 2 km back track to town and the hotel. They have underground parking again, which is nice. The beds here are like boards. We did have to pile several extra blankets under us to get any sleep. We had a pretty good meal in the hotel restaurant and our last dinner in Tibet. We did a lap of the town and it has a very Chinese feel to it. Poor Dan is having a hard time with the beds and his old disc problem is starting to act up. Trevor on the other hand is improving.
 Tibet_-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 8 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 8 guests)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
|
|
|
helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
Linear Mode
