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15 Jun 2018
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We retraced our route to Mount Ebenezer for gas and a free shower! It is another 56 km to the turn off at Erldunda. From here it is 487 km and 5 hours to the next town of Coober Pedy and we will not reach there by dark.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.13.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We drove on an almost straight road thru pretty much nothing for 380 km and then pulled off into a free camp 100 km north of Coober Pedy. The ground is red red dirt and it gets EVERYWHERE. There is no one else here and we had tons of dead fall for a nice fire. We had arrived at 530 and had to hide in the van until well after sunset and the flies were HORRIFIC! If you stepped out you had 30 on your face and ears in seconds and they are aggressive. Luckily as soon as the temperature dropped a few degrees they completely disappeared. AHHH the relief. We had another almost cloudless night for star shots. It was getting chilly by 9 pm and so time for bed. The guys stayed up with the fire and a large bottle of scotch!
 South Australia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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15 Jun 2018
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Contributing Member
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We had to pack up ASAP at 8 am as soon as the temperature started to rise and the flies were early risers. It was coffee and go. It was an easy 100 km to Coober Pedy.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.17.17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We have slowed it down a bit as at 90-100 we get 150 km more range then at 100-110. On the way to town you pass acres of opal mine fields. There are shafts dug down with huge piles of dirt beside them. In town we asked some locals and were told the best place for breakfast was the Shell station and they were right. This is a weird town with opal fever. It has an amazingly well stocked IGA and with very reasonable prices (for OZ). Like the Big Mac index we have the Magnum index of prices here in OZ( 4-7$ each). There are a few odd underground stores and hotel in old mines and quite a few opal shops as well. I would describe it as weirdly weird.
 Coober Pedy Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road south from here is incredibly straight. We did see a number of Emu, but only a few road kill kangaroos until very near to Port Augusta where we saw a number of big greys. The terrain is flat mostly, with the occasional rolling hillock. There are a number of dry lakes along the way as well. There are absolutely no real services between Coober and Port Augusta. We really wanted a hot shower and so we were motivated to drive the 45 min after sunset to arrive at a caravan park at 615. We had a cold night here as it id fully cloudy and might even rain.
 South Australia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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15 Jun 2018
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Today we may not go that far, but as it is inclement weather it is not fitting with our plan to head to the beach at Streaky Bay or onto Smokey Bay for 2 nights.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.18.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It is extremely windy especially in this high top van. We drove west on the 1 towards Wudinna and then took the cut off road to the coast to meet the B100 at Port Kenny. Here we did a small side trip to see the Murphy's Haystacks.
 South Australia-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We continued to Streaky Bay, which is not a bad little town with the caravan parks on the sea, but it is blustery and not very nice out. We continued 73 km father to Smokey Bay that is famous for their oyster producers. We stopped by one and bought 2 dozen. We then needed to get to the store for chardonnay and a shucker! It is cold and there are a few drops of rain at times and we are glad to have the van. the local here shared their advice on oyster shucking as well as some of their fresh caught grilled squid!
 South Australia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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We realized this morning that they have a clothes dryer here and so laundry day it is! We had it all done and were still on the road by 10.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.24.48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We headed back north to join the A1 and then west again. In Ceduna we found the first real shopping for days and we stocked back up, but bare in mind we will hit the WA border quarantine tomorrow and can not have any fresh fruits or veg. Then it is on the LONG STRAGHT Nullabor Highway. Between Ceduna and Ecula for 493 km there are basically only road houses with small shops, camping, and gas pumps. We planned to end our day about 30 km from the border at the Bunda Cliffs. Today we saw quite a few Emu, but no Kangaroos dead or alive.
 South Australia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The exit to the cliffs looks nondescript. You drive 500m thru the dunes and park between them out of the wind. From here it is 150 m to the cliff side that are sheer and very high. It was a bit windy and rainy and we did not have the fire we planned and had collected wood for.
 South Australia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 South Australia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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Setting out today it is cold and cloudy again on the long road west.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.25.24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We are back on the Eyre Highway for 30 km until we reach the “border” of Western Australia where we will enter our final OZ state. This is really just a quarantine station. You can not bring any fresh fruit and veg. They show you a plasticized card and ask you if you have any of the prohibited items like garlic or potatoes. Then they “search” your vehicle, but come on if you really wanted to smuggle grapes it would be pretty darn easy unless they were in your glove box, fridge, or van kitchen cupboards. They did not look in any of the placed you would actually hide anything.
 South Australia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
At Ecula we met Jax who has been riding her postie bike around Australia for the last 3 1/2 years. She is friends with our pals Todd and Chantelle in Darwin as they are Posties too.
 Western Australia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There are only road houses, fuel pumps, and a few stations with RV parks in the 710 km from Ecula to Norseman. The road today even flatter and straighter. We are trying to push as far as we can today in order to have a shorter day tomorrow to Esperance on the beach.
 Western Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We managed to get to Fraser Range Station by 5pm and checked in just before sunset. There are a huge number of Emu and kangaroo munching on the fresh grass in the camp ground. They have a great camp kitchen here that is warm and cosy.
 Western Australia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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Today we make for civilization in Esperence in a short 326 km!
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.25.44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There is not much at Norseman where the roads meet, but we did get some lunch items at the IGA. There is still a whole lot of nothing all day on the way to the coast.
 Western Australia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We chose a small RV park a block off the beach. They have free unlimited wifi and so we could all catch up. It is sunny and warm here for a long walk up the powdery white sand.
 Western Australia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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From here we have a bit of a long day and 483 km to Albany, but all of us have friends there that we want to see.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.26.16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It is cloudy and quite cool today and we are all wearing jackets. The scenery today is much more farm land and we did see quite a few Emu with even one herd of 20 or more. We arrived to Albany at the Middleton beach RV park and though the beach was nice it was blowing a gale and 12 degrees at 230 pm. It did get a bit warmer later and enough so that we could walk the 4.5 km to town to meet our friends. Antoinette and Ronnie we had met in Franz Josef glacier in New Zealand. They had arranged for us to meet a few of the people from their motorcycle club. Wow these people have ridden in a lot of places!
 Western Australia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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For our last day of touring in the van we will head north west on the secondary roads towards the wine region near Margaret River.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-15 at 20.56.44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
This is a very scenic windy and perfect motorcycle route! There were maybe a dozen other vehicles all day.
 Western Australia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We arrived to Pemberton after 2 for a lunch of pies at the “award winning” baker and then we booked it to Pierro Winery by 415 to taste their chardonnay said to be the best of the region.
 Western Australia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It is warm in the sun today, but we still need a sweater. After the tasting we rushed back to Gracetown beach (famous for the 2 recent shark attacks) to enjoy our wine and the sunset.
 Western Australia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We had checked into the small RV park here with lots of kangaroos hanging around. We all snugged in the van to warm up.
 IMG_2757 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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16 Jun 2018
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We have just 265 km to go on our trip to Freemantle, but we backtracked back to Margaret River for a fab smoked salmon benny.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-15 at 20.57.05 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2764 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2765 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We managed to finally hit the road after 1030. It is basically straight up the highway all day and we arrived to the Rv park about 330. We are celebrating the end of our road trip with some Margaret River Shiraz and some T bones.
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16 Jun 2018
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We headed to the car wash to clean up our ride and then dropped our luggage at our rental for the next 3 days. The van drop off location is outside the city, but is just a few hundred meters from the metro station. We then took the train into Perth city to do some shopping and sight seeing.
It is an easy transfer to Fremantle via train as well. This is nice tourist town to hang out in and it is full of cafes, chic restaurants, and bars.
 Western Australia-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Western Australia-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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21 Jun 2018
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We had an Uber pick up at 645 am for the 30 km trip to the Perth airport, a 3 hour flight on Qantas to Darwin, a 2 hour layover, and then a 1 hr 1 5 min flight on Air North to Dili.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-21 at 15.31.56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Screen Shot 2018-05-21 at 15.32.20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
You change time forward and then back and so we arrived at just before 5 pm. The air was hot and humid and we walked down the stairs to the tarmac. They have an efficient Visa process here on arrival. It is 30 USD (the local currency) and they just put a visa sticker in your passport. It was then a s second line up for passport control, but this was also efficient and easy.
 Timor-Leste by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The taxi’s here are fixed rate and so no problem as well. It is 10$ to the city and most of the area around. Our accommodation is in a traditional Timorese home, that is actually the Mexican Consulate as well. We were greeted by the security guard who gave us a key and said that we could check in after 7. It is Timor Independence Day today and everyone is out at celebration events. We went for a walk in the neighborhood and had dinner at a local hotel on the beach. The people here are friendly and smile and wave. The driving is calm and courteous. YEAH! We returned to the Casa Sandalo to find the owners who warmly greeted us an d told us we had been upgraded to an apartment with a kitchen! We were in bed and asleep by 10 and woke up 12 hours later! We walked over to the ATM for some USD! Then around the corner to the grocery store frequented by the expats and NGO workers. Here you can get a decent coffee and croissant!
 Timor-Leste-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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21 Jun 2018
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Outside it is 34 and humid and the sun is a laser. Our mission first is SIM cards and data! We managed this easily just a few blocks away and got an email with the bills of lading and confirming the ship left Darwin 2 days ago at 430 pm. This means it should be in tonight.
The SDV is actually 3 blocks from out Hotel, but when we stopped in today they are closed until tomorrow. Bad news for Orvar we got an email from SDV in Darwin with the way bills they also sent an email admitting that when they loaded the bikes in the container on the 15 th (its the 21 st) They dropped his bike and smashed the windscreen!!! Bit late to tell us now since we can not replace it here in Timor Leste.
 Timor-Leste-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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21 Jun 2018
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We arrived at SDV at 10 and they drove us over to Customs to get the carnet signed and then back to the office. The ship is being unloaded as we speak and our container will be off and available after 3. So we are to come back then, pay out port fees (120 USD each) and then we can go and get the bikes. To kill a few hours we walked into town for lunch and then toured the Museum of the resistance. This chronicles the history of their fight for independence, the genocide by the Indonesians, and the collusion of the USA and Australia with Indonesia to obtain sea oil rights.
 Timor-Leste-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2789 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2790 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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21 Jun 2018
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At 3 pm we get our way bills payed and hop in a taxi to the port. Here we are met by a SDV agent and walked back to the container. They cut the seal and then unload the boxes in front. The 3 bikes are all upright at least and only OV’s is damaged. We unload them, get the batteries connected, and head off to get gas.
 Timor-Leste-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Frame-04-06-2018-21-11-01 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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21 Jun 2018
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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