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2 Jul 2018
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We left here at 130 and backtrack to the Y in the road. Here we are headed 25 km to Cassa and the road is in terrible condition where it was paved.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.22.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-64 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It was paved once long ago. The worst is the sharp edges of the remaining pavement. There are some washed out area and some mud of course. The road heads west and up into the mountains and from the top there is a panoramic view. The down slope was steep loose gravel, but ended at perfect pavement.
 FILE5833 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5843 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5856 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5858 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5859 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5880 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5897 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jul 2018
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Once we hit the main road again it was paved and smooth. This lasted a few km and then the road was intermittently paved and destroyed. We finally had some views of Timor's highest peak Mt. Rameleu. About 15 km from the main road we hit road construction again for 5 km and it was quite muddy especially in one section where we had to wait 15 min for a truck to be loaded with dirt. From here the road bed was prepared and smooth for the last 12 km to the other Y in the road home. Then we backtracked to Maubisse to arrive at 530. We were all tired an hungry.
 FILE5907 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5914 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5958 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-62 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-63 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5971 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5984 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE5996 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6012 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6024 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6026 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6030 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-67 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6034 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6040 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jul 2018
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Contributing Member
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We were up with the roosters again today, had breakfast, and were on the road by 9. We have not decided where we are headed except to get near the Indonesian border.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.25.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We had 2 km of muddy construction to get out of town and then 32 km of good curvy road to back track to just past Aileu. There is a circle route from here to the coast thru the coffee region towards Gleno instead of going back to Dili.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.23.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The turn off is about 6.5 km past Aileu. The road is good for about 1 km and then disintegrates. I had put my memory card in the camera, but did not click it in perfectly and unfortunately I don't have pics of the more challenging parts!
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.25.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The first 4 km are gravel with some old pavement, but the next 10 are deeply rutted dried mud, steep rocky section, and very dusty. This was quite challenging on Lulu who is very low and the bash plate hits a lot of things and the panniers in the deep ruts can be a challenge. It is hard to believe but we did meet some small trucks on the route. Then suddenly 5 km from the main road there is a beautiful paved 1 lane road.
 Timor-Leste-72 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-73 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jul 2018
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Just north of here on the way to the coast we stopped for a brake at a fruit stand and then had an amazing curvy paved road down.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.26.28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-74 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-75 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-76 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We had some not great gas yesterday in Same and at the coast found some premium to top up. Here we had 99 km to go to the Indonesian border town of Batugade.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.27.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road is newly paved in section, but others are washed away or falling apart. There are a few “tourist” sights, but the one prison ruins we stoped at was boarded up. The views are stunning along the coast and often the waves crash on the rocks right beside the road. We arrived to Batugade and as we had seen nowhere to eat all day and lunch was bananas, cookies, and chips! The desperation meal of the adventure rider!
 Timor-Leste-77 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-78 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-85 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-83 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jul 2018
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Here we decided to ride the 14 km up to Balibo where there is supposed t be a hotel in an old fort.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.27.40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The road is good for the first 8 km and then is destroyed. The town is not much to speak of and neither is the fort. The hotel here is very expensive (95USD) for nothing special and she then offered us 120 for 2 rooms, but they do not even take in the spectacular view. There is a guest house in the grocery store in town, but no way! You walked thru the ramshackle store and then the even worse store room that smelled of rotten meat, thru the garage where for some reason a truck was running with the doors closed, up a rickety rusted spiral staircase past the owners outdoor living quarters to the rooms (24 USD no fan). The rooms were not that bad it was all the rest.
 Timor-Leste-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Timor-Leste-71 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It is 330 and we decided to make for the border, which is !18 km away. This means a back track the way we came and then 4 km past the town.
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2 Jul 2018
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Well that is it for Timor Leste!!
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.39.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
When you pull up to the Timor Leste border area there is to the left before the actual border a covered area with 2 desks. Both have police sitting at them, but one desk has a crumples paper sign that says Timor Leste to Indonesia and the other the opposite. Here the officer checks your passport and carnet and sends you on to the real border where you park under the cover.
Here you fill in an immigration card (they have them in English). You then walk 30 m across to the customs officer. She was very nice and stamped the 3 carnet asap. You then walk back 15 m to the immigration to get your exit stamp and hand in the immigration card. We were all done here before 430.
 Timor-Leste-87 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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2 Jul 2018
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You then drive across the bridge to the massive elaborate Indonesian border. Here you pass the first police check and then take the second left to customs (there are no signs for directions and no one directing you and so we went around the round about and straight to the border complex. Here the very nice guard said we had to go back to customs first).
 Indonesia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There you park and go into the customs office. They also hand you a Customs declaration card in English. We had to wait a while for the head man to return to stamp the carnets. By then it was 450 and the border closes at 5! Now instead of just going forward you have to turn left down a dirt alley and then back track to the other border buildings.
Here we parked again and rushed into the office with our passports. You have to fill in an immigration card and then you go to the officer at the border port at the left. Here they were a bit confused as we had visas, but they called in the boss who spoke English and he told them just to process the entries. He advised us on a choice of hotels and gave us his cell number in case we had any issues. The last step it to go to customs declaration and hand in the card. Here they wanted us to put out riding jackets thru the X-ray and “your luggage”. We just grabbed the seat dry bags and came back in. No one told the poor X-ray guy (who had shut down the computer and the X-ray machine and was already walking out the door) and he had to restart the machines to scan the last 2 bags. We where out of there by 520 and into Indonesia.
We were treated to perfectly paved road and until the city of Atambua no traffic.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.29.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
They do not follow the rules of the road like in Timor Leste, half are not wearing helmets, all drive like mad men, and in the city in under 20 min nearly all of us could have had an accident if we were not being aggressively defensive. The worst is the scooters on your right who come up beside you and then want to turn left right infant of you.
We made it alive, starved and tired to the hotel. 40 $ Canadian for a very nice huge room with bath and air con. We pigged out in the restaurant and it was 11$ for 3 of us! Nice not to pay the Dili price for things that have been so inflated by the UN and other groups. We also had a walk about the morning market in search of SIM cards.
 Indonesia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2018 at 23:32.
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6 Jul 2018
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We were woken at 430 am by loud talking and people walking down the hotel hallway. Then 15 min later the bellow of the call to prayer. We have not heard this for a long time. The Muslim population here is not visibly very large, but the entire city is woken at 5 am anyway.
We have been unable to get the Indonesia maps on open street to load or function and so we are running of of Google and maps.me for an exit route from the city. We do have some map overlapping from the Malaysia tile for the Kupang area.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.30.06 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We set out just before 9 with the plan to just get as far at So’e in 167 km since we do not know what to expect from the road and traffic and can not predict the travel time. The road smooth as silk and very curvy. There is not much traffic, but it was still very slow going and we made the city after 4 hours.
 Indonesia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6045 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6078 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2018 at 23:39.
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6 Jul 2018
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We stopped in So’e and finally after a lot of searching found a restaurant. This is a bit of a challenge here as most eating places just have precooked food that they serve up. The cold fish and chicken sitting our with the flies is less than appealing. We managed to find a spot with a hot fire grill and had some amazing half chicken meals and a coke for 3.50 each.
 Indonesia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
It will be a long, tiring, and hot day, but we decided to go for Kupang so we can stay 2 nights in the same spot. We are headed to the hotel recommended by the riders we met in Darwin. With a good location, underground parking, and a value price. The day went well with major curves and several mountain crossings.
 FILE6084 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6093 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There was almost no problems until the last 35 km with the heavy truck traffic and the ADV moron (first rider we have seen) on a V Strom who was passing on a blind corner and was head on in Dan’s lane. The scooter riders have not been as bad as expected either, they are pretty chill and school like fish. They obey the signal lights and most use their turn signals. They are much better than in Atambua.
 Indonesia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We arrived very hot and very tired and happy to find the hotel nicer than expected. We did a bit of a walk around and then ended up in the hotel for dinner.
 Indonesia-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We were please to see a real breakfast buffet with Asian and Western choices. They even had pancakes! Today is errand day.
1. Get new SIM cards this is 1 month 17 GB for under 10$. And stickers!
 IMG_2837 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
2. Get a GRAB taxi the 11 km to the port to confirm the ferry will go to Larantuka on Flores tomorrow and at what time (web says 1300, concierge called the office they say 11, guy at the port say 12??) We we be there at 830 and get the tickets (265,000 R for 1 bike and rider or about 25$). The ferry takes 13 hours and usually leaves at 1300 and arrives at 0200!
“quote”
 IMG_2832 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
3. Get to the car wash….Amazing wash job, air hose dry, and plastics polish.
 Indonesia-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2836 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
For dinner we had found a pork BBq place on line and a Carefour! We set off the 1.3 km to the store hoping to get some great snacks for the ferry, but when we got there it was mostly clothing and some fruit and NOT a real Carefour supermarket. From here it is another 1.5 km to Aroma! We had a pretty good all meat meal! Luckily there was a grocery next door, but really all they had was water and cookies that would be suitable. We got a GRAB home for 10,000R =1$.
 Indonesia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 4 Aug 2018 at 23:53.
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8 Jul 2018
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We had our breakfast and were on the road at 8 for the 11 km ride over to the ferry dock.
 FILE6114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We arrived at 830 am and were directed to the right to a covered lane filled with bikes.
 FILE6119 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6131 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There were 2 other ferries going this morning. We were told the Larantuka tickets go on sale at 11! Well that is good news that it is actually going.
 Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.31.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We had fun during the wait chatting to the other riders. Promptly at 11 the ticket man called to Daniel and told him to come buy his tickets.
 Indonesia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
At 1130 we were told to board. This meant ride thru the gate to the next gate where they check your ticket and your destination.
 Indonesia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6139 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6146 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 5 Aug 2018 at 00:09.
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8 Jul 2018
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The trucks are all lashed down. We had our tie downs and set to work fixing the bikes to the 1 deck point we had for the 2 bikes. An unorthodox set up, but it worked and passed inspection of the crew who came to check. Sara had go up on deck to try and get some seats as dozens of people had loaded after us. I did find a table and seats on the top deck, which is open to the air, but not comfortable and would be cold after dark. The boat left at 1220. The deck crew said we could climb the ladder beside the bikes to a small utility deck. This was very clean and quiet and we set up our chairs. We could lie down for a nap on a huge coil of rope.
 IMG_2838 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 IMG_2840 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Indonesia-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
The only issue was at dinner time the people throwing garbage and half drunk coffee off the upper decks flew in at us. So we moved down as it was cold anyway to the car deck itself. We had purchased some ramen noodles for dinner to add to our fruit and cookies. Sara managed to sleep most of the way!
 IMG_3466 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Last edited by saralou; 5 Aug 2018 at 00:15.
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8 Jul 2018
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We made good time and actually docked about 2330 an hour early. They let the foot passengers off with the bikes so it was a bit of mayhem. We got stuck behind some dork not at his bike, but the crew was great and got one of the trucks moving so we could get past. We met the Swede just a few minutes later and then rode east towards the town.
 Flores-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We had looked up a few places online and stopped at the first. It was clean and with partially working aircon, but cold water. We did not expect much after midnight, but this place was not too bad for 300,000R. They also had secure parking under the hotel.
We actually gad a pretty good night sleep, except the call at 430 am. We were also surprised the rate included breakfast!
 Flores-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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8 Jul 2018
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The plan is to ride the supposedly wildly curved roads to the western end of the island for the diving, snorkelling, and the dragons! How long could 665 km take anyway.....4 days!
 Screen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.39.43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
We set out quite late at 930 for the ride 133 km to Maumere.
 Screen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.40.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6193 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 FILE6231 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
 Flores-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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