Yesterday we started our journey from Riga to Georgia where we plan to make an extensive expedition and get to places where seldom has someone been.

Our first report from day 1.

At last the journey has begun! Faster to South, to warmer climate, sea and mountains!

From Rīga to Krāslava we are bothered by extremely cold Northern wind combined with rain drops and small technical problems – Andis’ bike has issues with tank’s ventilation and the fuel does not flow from one tank to another.

Around 9 pm, when twilight dominates over daylight, shortly before Krāslava we notice the road sign to Skērškānu guest house right at the coast of the river Daugava. We are lucky because the owner Jānis was already packing to go to the city. We accomodate in comfortable house warmed by fireplace. Bikes we leave in the yard, where they are guarded by Tyson (a dog not the boxer).

In the morning we find the bent air tube, fix the the problem and prepare breakfast. 30 kilometres to Belarus border.

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Weather forecast doesn’t impress us – rain, strong Northern wind and 13-14C air temperature. We prepare our rain equipment and got to bordercrossing point Pāternieki. No queues. At the Latvian side our documents are checked, boxes are not tested and we are blessed to go to Belarus, where procedure takes around two hours – we need to declare bikes, to compare frame numbers and to unpack our boxes to check the content.



Right after border we realize that we have made mistake regarding our fuel calculations. Because the closest gas station from the border is 50 km away. Andis’ bike is the first to run out of „soup”, after five clicks Normunds is next. Luckily Oskars reaches the fuel station on two wheels.



We ride through Vitebsk to Gomel. Culture of traffic is in much better level than in Latvia – truck drivers upfront move to the right to let us pass, greet us and informs about police posts. Belarussian law enforcers stops us once – check our documents and insurance, but let us go without any delays. They warn us to be careful in Ukraine and wish us good tailwind. At the fuel station next to Vitebsk we meet Alexey from Ukraine. He comes from Kiev. The guy is dressed in chemical defence combinezone and he warns us about rainshowers further up the road.



Around 8 pm 60 km before Gomel we find the motel at the side of the road. There is a spectacular church right next to our accomodation. 500 km ridden today.

We can’t stop being delighted about Belarus. Despite the country is quite poor, everywhere around us is in perfect order. Road quality is not the best, but we see no holes on them. Riding with bikes would not be enjoyable but enduro bikes feel wonderful here.

At the fuel stations you need to fill the 95th, which seems to be of a good quality’s, because engines sing songs of praise. Anyway it is at least two levels above fuel in Russia. As a supplementary bonus is the price – it is cheaper by one third than in Latvia!




Border control point from Belarus side to Ukraine is named Novaja Guta. We are first in the line, but process of document formation takes us two hours. Ukrainian borderguard’s first question is – are we related to Russian “Night Wolves”? Our surnames are checked and after a brief moment we enter the terminal. Improvised interrogation continues. We are helped by the fact that we have printed the ferry reservation from Illichevsk. It is being accurately scanned and copied. Unlike in Belarus in you don’t need to fill the declaration for motorbikes. Custom’s officers don’t even come to our bikes and let us in their homeland.



Few kilometers away from Chernigov we are stopped at the blockpost, where heavily armed officers and soldiers of Ukraine’s army start conversation about social topics. Attitude is favorable and positive. We wish them to have a peace as soon as possible in their war plagued land. Ukrains don’t need much time to reply wishing us never to run out of songs and liquor. The roads are totally different in Ukraine as they were in Belarus – quality is a lot worse, chaos everywhere. We understand – the state has other priorities at the moment.

Not far from Chernigov we encounter local police for the first time. Attitude is hard to understand – brutal and shameless money recketeering scheme forcing us to pay for exceeding speeding limits, which we did not, and threatening to revoke our driver’s licenses. We already had an unpleasant experience with Ukrainian police two years ago when we rode to Romania. Conclusion – situation is still the same.


20 km before Kiev at the side of the road we find a hotel. People on streets come to start conversations, when they hear we are from Latvia. Everybody is in patriotic mood.

From Kiev to Odessa we are separated by 500 kilometers. We are going down the E95 highway which is beaten up and in bad shape. Of course we on our enduro bikes are not affected by it. Traffic on the main road to the South is tiny and we can enjoy riding through blooming rapeseed fields glowing in electric yellow colors.




Fuel is not as high quality’s as in Belarus. It is being imported from Romania and Greece, but on the other hand the gasoline is better than in Russia and cheaper than in Latvia.




It seems like this is the wonderland for the gourmets of vareniki and chebureks as huge billboards appear on the side of the highway.



At 5pm 20 km before Odessa we meet up with members of local motoclub “Motor-Live”. They were eager to greet us and show the city, and also provide accommodation.



Many news to follow. Our comrades from Odessa are very friendly with interesting stories to share. Don’t have much time to write them down. When we will be on the ferry, i promise i will catch up with sharing the fascinating events.

Ferry that provides cargo, vehicle, motorbike and passenger movement between Ukraine (Illichevsk 30 km from Odessa) and Georgia (Batumi) has an irregular schedule around once a week. The biggest load comes from railroad cargoes that dictate the ferry’s schedule which is published approximately one month before. Delays from one to three days are possible, so tourists seldom choose this opportunity. Cabins are limited and you have to book them early like we did more than month ago. Crossing of the Black Sea takes more than 50 hours. Ticket for one passenger costs 2800 grivns (120 eur). Price for one motorbike is 5900 grivns (260 eur).

This is the one and only ferry line that is possible to go to Ukraine from Georgia. (More information can be found http://www.ukrferry.com). Our first reservation for the ferry was planned on May 19, but day before it was moved later for 24h. We are not saddened by this fact and accept it like a gift, because we are in love with Odessa from the first sight.




Leader of motoclub “Motor-Life” Ruberoid and his comrades have greeted us like old childhood friends. So the myth about Odessian hospitality is true and definitely not exaggerated.

Olga who works in the tourist sector is a walking encyclopedia, enlightening us with fresh and unheard stories about city’s history and events.

Chief Ruberoid has found two juvenils Jura and Ksjusha – diggers, who today will show us the famous Odessa’s undergound catacombs – one district 20 km away from the city. Tourists usually are not allowed in there.




Below city’s buildings are 2,500 km long catacombs, which are cut in limestone. First known catacombs are made at the beginning of the 17th century. Most of them are cut at the beginning of the 19th century, when excavated limestone was used to build the city. Shortly after that catacombs was the hideout for criminals, eccentrics and rebels. During World War 2 despite the fact that Soviet army had fled the city in the catacombs were hiding dozens of guerilla groups. Right before Nazi noses they were hiding for 13 months.




Nowadays in Ukraine there is a special subculture with tens of semi professional groups who explore the catacombs and its history. They go on expeditions for days to create the maps of catacomb system. Weapons and grenades are often found in the caves. Once in five years dead bodies of guerillas are discovered. Sometims those remains are in perfect shape - like mummies because of the cold and dry air.




Temperature outside is 20C, but our two guides recommend to wear the jackets when going underground, because the temperature below varies from 10 – 15C. Entrance to the cave is located next to steep cliff hidden by bushes and grass. It is easily predictable that there is little to none movement on daily basis. Random wanderer has no chance of finding the entrance to the catacombs. Jura before going down under calls his friend, gives him our coordinates and tells approximate time of how long we will be gone. The friend has contacts with MCS (rescue team), who in case of... can try to help us. Satelit and mobile phones, GPS and compasses are not functioning in the caves. We crawl through half ruined pathes and pits for two hours, listen to interesting stories. Air is fresh and it is easy to breath. Even at the moment when Jura gets lost in the labyrinth, i am not scares one bit, because strangely i have the feeling that the guy knows his business. It would be madness to go down to the caves without a guide, because orientation without experience and knowledge is impossible down there



Dirty and sweaty but in great mood we crawl out and get on our bikes to go to the Odessa city.

Two days in Odessa dominated by blooming akacia trees are way too short time, but you can try to feel its spirit, flavor and special energy.
If before visiting you have had a chance to read Petrov’s and Ilf’s novel „Twelve chairs”, it will give additional value and reinforce the feeling of the place.



Odessians say that Ostap Bender was a real person and a prototype for the novel’s main character. Interesting part for us is the fact that he has a connection with Latvia – at the Jekaterinovskas street building, where was Ostap’s gymnasium, in 1910 was a union of Odessa Latvians.



Odessa has to thank Catherine II for its place on map. Right from the start she wanted to make the newfounded city the pearl of the south.

There are many versions about Odessa’s name origins, but the most popular and also the interesting one is quite simple – before the city was built, there was a small fishing village „Hobuchej”, and Catherine II did not like it, because the pearl had to have tuneful and beautiful name. It is known that in teritorry of Bulgaria was a place with similar name and it had some kind of connection with Greek mythological hero Odysseus. So Catherine II accepted it with minor fixes.

The city grew rapidly thanks to the port and trade. Colorous style of architecture is inspired by many nations of Odessa. Greeks, Italians, French and Jews all had a share.



We try to feel the true Odessa charm by parking our bikes next to the cafe „Vienna sausages”, where local bikers usually meet up and go walking in the city’s old districts, streets and special patios, where laundry is being dried by hanging it on laces. Walking down the Deribasovkaja street its really easy to imagine how the smuggling took place here for more than a century by using underground catacombs and pathes, which were used to smuggle the cargo to the port. In the eighties 90% percent of the jeans „Montana”, popular and illegal in the USSR, were manufactured here. We were sure back then that the jeans come from across the sea.



At the moment Odessians are worried about struggling economy and uncertain future because of the warfare 300 km away. Complicated relationship with Russia also does not help. Georg ribbons can’t be seen on cars here and Russia’s Night Wolves are not welcome.

Ruberoid, president of the motorcycle club „Motor-Life Odessa” says: „I personally know the Night wolf leader Hirurg (Surgeon), we have taken part together in some events. Three years ago at the memorial day of 9th May i also had Georg’s ribbon attached to my jacket, but now, when two good friends of mine are killed by separatists, whois guns are decorated with those ribbons, my attitude has changed. We can’t accept the philosophy and ideas of those people. We just hope that common sense will win and life will go back to normal.”



Olga, who relentlessly participates in motorclub’s social life and who is determined patriote of the Ukraine, is worried about different problem: „Since the beginning of the warfare i often get involved in fundraising campaigns for Ukrainian soldiers. I have noticed that people tend to donate more if the funds are asked for Odessians at the front. If we raise money for Ukraine, the responsiveness is much lower. Of course you need to be the city’s patriot, but when we are talking about nation’s future we all have to be united.

Odessians keep smiling and having fun in their lives with humour that only they are blessed with.