Kids out trying to earn a few bob picking up bottles and cans.



Not much in the way of School equipment..



But still they smile.



Great people

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Onwards up the HM trail..





We had off’s, mechanicals, and moments of utter amazement I was really enjoying being up the front and felt a sense of responsibility especially as the Gizmos reputation was at stake and therefore mine and England’s.

Lets go


One of many crossings.


This was a nasty one with lots of big rocks and deep water in parts.








This next one was spectacular, as I went down the ramp I knew it would be a big crossing due to the angle of the slope, when I hit the bottom I couldn't believe my eyes.


270 Meters of bamboo, once the traffic cleared I shot across it and waited for the others.










All across lets go.


As we rode the ramp up into the Village there was a toll, but once inside the village gates it really was a step back in time.



Cold.












After some rocks,mud and jungle.




Look what I found


Then onto the next one, this would be a challenge as the centre of the bridge was missing, the water was to deep so we had to bridge the gap. This guy was on the bridge as we arrived.





We helped him a cross and then tried to work out how we lift them over.





Then a guy turned up from the local village, he said he could fix the bridge and we could cross for a small fee, we agreed and he ran of into the bush and came out with a metal plate, placed it over the hole and across we went, he then removed it.



Then on the way up the ramp we have our first problem.




Team work required, the throttle cable has snapped and he doesn't have a spare , Oh dear


Lucky I have one.


As we fixed the bike Doug had a rest.






An old Russian army Vehicle.






The Group.


This is fun


More water?, down the slope to find out, think we had to pay for this one as well.


The old bridge was gone, perhaps bombed, view from the other side.












And back on the trail.


A couple more hard bits and little chain trouble




We arrived at our destination and it had taken 10-hours to do little over 100k's it had been a brutal day, a few more injury's picked up but we made it what a brilliant day the sense of achievement was brilliant.

Cheers Fellas.

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great blog mate keep it coming!!

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Great report

Just added to my bucket list

Fireball, I have buckets as well as flip flops, large or medium??


Our residents for the night were not much no shower just a big bucket of water and a scoop; think we all passed on that as we did the toilet. We found a little place to eat up the road, Craig broke out his bottle of ouzo and we got a little pissed, Doug was sorting out tomorrows route, I had told them I was heading for Paxse and they decided to head that way to, no need to go alone.





Just a hard bed and a mozzie net.


The next morning we where up before the sun and waiting for the Café to open, it was a beautiful morning so we had a little look about, no rush today which was nice. We where hoping to get to Paxse tonight.





The Moon was still out.


Here she comes.






Village life is under way.


Kids of to School.


We went to have a look at the school, very basic, but lot's of happy children.


Although they seemed a little scared of us and run away

And hid, we can see you.


Or not bothered.


Doug had panned the route, I was already fed up with management style and today I would reach my limit, this is why I travel alone. These sort of ride tests more than your machine. We arrived at the left turn described by the man in the Bar last night (Telecom Tower) my Gps says straight on, we go left and 10k’s later the road splits, left or right? Doug ask’s me what way the Gizmo said, I told him “back to the Tower and turn left”, “going back was not an option” he barked like it was my fault, F**k off was my reply and with that I dropped the bike into gear nodded at the others and f****d of, jeez man don’t talk to me like that.

Back on my own again emotions where high and I was free, no more problems in my life until I started to feel bad about leaving Sam behind, he been trying to stop me as I left the group waving his arms at me, aaahhh shit. I decided to wait at the Tower for 20 mins; if they didn’t show up I would carry on regardless. As I waited I heard the sound of bikes coming up the trail, Doug was first and he made his way over to me and told me that they had voted 3-1 to go with what the gps said, it had not let us down so far.

Turned out to be a little stretch of graded sand then some tarmac, it was a welcome break from the trail.


We ambled along until we hit a town and started looking for somewhere to have lunch, this wasted a lot of time as well.












Tensions where high that day we got about half before we all had enough and decided to park it for the day, later that evening we all hooked up to see what was going on, for me it was easy I was going to Paxse. Sam had reached his limit and wanted to go to Paxse and rest up, Craig wanted to buy a GPs card of my friend Doug and Graham would go to Attapue and then go onto meet the other’s in Kong Island in a few days, no problem, off to bed.

Hope tomorrow is better

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Its nice to hook-up with others occasionally, but I prefer to ride alone

btw the flip-flops arrived, now my girlfriend wants a pair

I think alone is more challenging, but it can be fun with others...

Flip flops in the post for the GF...

Back to the Trails...


When I got up in the Morning Doug and Graham had left, the mutineers and myself set sale on a little route I planned the night before, bit of sight seeing.



I had looked through the GPs and found 2 places of interest, they both had good written in brackets next to the name, no idea what they where, lets go have a look.





We headed of for Tah H Namsai, it was off road the hardest bit was the last climb, nobody had been up here for a while the track was over grown and very slippery in the rocky sections, it was more like a trails ride with no place to stop until you got to the top. On arrival there was a small clearing it was as hot as hell, well worth the effort.





The view was stunning













We had about 1hr here and headed back down the climb, it was harder than coming up but we had to take the same route back to the road, then it was onto the next place the Tad fan overlook. Sam had a small of and twisted his ankle but was fit to carry on, we travelled well as a team, me waiting at any turns for Craig to catch up, then I would go off again and he would wait for Sam, clockwork.










We stopped for some food on route and got one of the best meals I had had for days, these little food places can be gems.



We arrived at the next place and new it was another waterfall, once again we where blown away with the views.









After a little look around we headed for a Hotel I picked from the Menu. We arrived about 6pm, it had been a fantastic days riding and this was our hotel. Fantastic looking place with great views, Doug phoned to say that there where on the to Pakxe and could we book some rooms. I had already decided that tomorrow I was having a day off, my thumb was still pretty useless and other battle damage was taking it’s toll, time for a rest.

Our hotel.


Hot shower...yes..






After a clean up I contacted Midnight mapper and invited him and his wife up for dinner, we dined like kings. Craig got his Gps card and also got a lesson in how to use it



A splendid evening was had by all, tomorrow the Aussies would leave and I would go of with Midnight. It had been great riding with the guys, thank you fellas.

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Great ride report so far. Thanks for all the pictures. I find I need to ride solo or with one other person or I don't enjoy my time.

Thanks Rob it was a fun ride, I always travel alone and dare say I will again, but sharing it was a great time, I liked the parts when you had to work as a group to help each other, but then I hated all the indecision that comes along with a group, I suppose it ways up in the end.... for me it's the ride...

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Been meaning to finish this report for some time but I've been so busy planning the next trip I never got round to it, now I have time I plan to finish it.

The Aussies I was riding with have headed of on their own and I have met up with Don AKA Midnitemapper. Don's been mapping Laos for the last 10 years and has produced a GPS map with so much detail it's a real riding companion.

The map below is the route from the next 4 days.



This would be a great incite into how a mapper works...meet Don


We spent the first day just poking around (yellow route)



An easy day, I think don was warming me up for what was coming over the next few days, here is a few shots of our day. Don takes pictures and waypoints of everything of interest. His passion and drive for what he does is remarkable. Wish I had met him 20 years ago.

First up need to fix a puncture.



Beauty and the beast


Nice bike


Old truck




Over the Mekong and onto the trails.







So many great things to see



Irrigation.



View from the cockpit



Back on the trails



The next village was spectacular lots of picture opportunities







Time for a spot of lunch, time to treat the kids.













These people where so nice, so happy..

We rode until night time, I don't like the Laos roads at night...not safe.

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An early start was required, I didn't know what Don had in store for me today, it wasn't until we got close that he said we would be looking for an old Temple ruins, this would be our route (green).



We where up before the sun and ready to move, a beautiful day was breaking







Don was up even earlier planning the route



Today would be hard Don doesn't hang about, the heat today would be immense and I really struggled with it. We stopped at a couple of school to have a look, the children are so happy.





Some nice Buddha statues, so well kept



Then we got into what I would describe as a desert with trees, damn hot and my first real taste of riding on sand, which made me even hotter.



Don new we where in the general area of the ruins, we just had to find by riding along the old Khmer ancient road it was at this point that I realised how lucky I was to do such an adventure, these tracks where 100's of years old and nobody had been in here for a long time, the excitement was mounting as was the heat.

Finally about 3 in the afternoon we get a break and found the Berry (waterhole, not sure about the spelling either)

Don told me that these always East of the temples



Park the bikes up have a quick look around the area





Into the Jungle to try and find the Temple's

Bingo



Man I feel like Indiana Jones, you could be 10 feet away from this and not see it




We found the wall and start to follow it until we find an opening





The happiest man alive




I've never done anything like this before, it's fantastic to see what's been done here and you really get a feeling of going back in time.






More to come...funmeteryes:

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This is the point where my camera started playing up, when we returned to the Baray (is a man made waterhole, used for cleaning oneself and irrigation as well as allowing the Animals to drink)

So this is how It looks today.


Don walks the perimeter logging it on his gps




maybe this is how it looked back in the day.




My Camera has given up at this point, we spent some time at the site looking around but time was getting on and we had a bit more poking around to do. It was back on the sandy trails, we would encounter a few problems along the way.




No chance, so we double back and look for another crossing it's getting dark as well when we did find another crossing it got my attention as the boards where loose

Camera is working again!




Safely across we start looking for some where to eat and sleep, it's pitch black by the time we hit a small village but we find what we think is a Cafe. We enter asking for food, which was no problem the lady knocked up us a bowl of chicken something and noodles, it done the job.

We had done some riding today





Our arrival in town had caused a stir and people where dropping in to have a look at the ting tong falang, a rather large chap plonked himself down in front of us and fired a few questions into Don. I found him a little bit intimidating but that subsided, turns out he was asking Don what where we doing around here. We decided to stay and get the s in, buy now we had the head of the village and his right hand men all around the table, out comes the and invitation to sleep at the police station.....




Laos hospitality is great, thank you.


We slept on the balcony and it was damn cold, didnt get much sleep and tomorrow would be another dusk till dawn ride.

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After a cold night and not much sleep we are woken by the PA playing Laos music, it's 5.30am and it's time to get up. We are told to go to the little cafe and get some coffee...I need this and after about 3 cups of it Dons chomping at the bit to get going, me I want to sleep more.



We say good by to the Boss (Benson)



And we are off, heading south, (Dark red route after the green)



We ride along here for about 10ks then hit a village check point where we are stopped, a young man tells us that he is our guide and we should follow him, seems Benson made a few calls, this would knock hours of the journey, now I'm awake and getting excited again...



We turn of the main road and into the tree desert! The sand is deep...



We arrive a huge clump of trees and it's time to go on foot.





Then it's of into the trees..





Is that it?


After about 15 mins of going through really thick jungle.





We find the outer wall




Our guide had done a good job, he didn't need gps



The Temple





Don get's to work straight away; I'm just blown away and wander round taking as many pictures as I can.











I really wanted a souvenir but thought the gods may curse me if I take some thing from such a special place, the body laying over the wall told the story of the last tomb raider who was here..




Looks like he nearly made it over the wall before the gods struck him down

Don at work







A fantastic morning, Don want to go have a look at another trail, I'm not liking the sand so I head back to the checkpoint to make some new friends.....

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Once I got back to the checkpoint there was a little shop so time to refill with fluids, already I have drunk 4 litres up to this point and it's not even midday. I talked to the lady in the shop in my simple Thai and we had a little chat, she was Beautiful but would not look at the camera.



She was a little shy, perhaps she thought I was trying to chat her up, which of course I was 5555, she was not married and the child was not hers, surely I'm in



Think she's thinking about it.



A few more people turn up to see the Falang



I buy the Children some sweets and everybody has a drink, we having a party now!



Now I go mad with the camera, this young lady was very curios



This one a little shy



I think the whole village is coming













I love this one



Then Don turns up and a few more people turn up



Beautiful child



Then the captain turned up



We stayed a bit longer but we needed to move on, we where going to head for the Border of Thailand to check out a trading route...


This didn't go so well for me I ended up with heatstroke in the middle of no where, I ended up in a village shop badly overheating, the kind lady took me around the side to lay in the shade.

I was feeling really weird, my arms had packed up working my heart was pumping hard I was worried, Don wasn't he left me there to die 55555(I'm Joking).

It was quiet surreal laying there listening to Don ride of into the distance, there were chickens and pigs running around but no other noise...I think I fell asleep for about 20 mins, I had cooled down and was feeling fine, it was 40 in the shade.

I had reached my limit that day...

But it’s not over...

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Don wanted to have a poke around on the way back so I headed back to the crossing and waited for him, nice smooth road and no sand.



After about 15 mins Don turned up and we crossed the river.





Ferry was not working so it was a small boat.



I'm on now it's Don's turn



All aboard lets go.








It's so damn hot, check out the new sunglasses 3rd pair this trip



We landed the other side and set of for Pakse, Don was poking around so I took 15 mins to cool down.



The heat is really getting to me, I just can’t seem to cool down, the animals seemed to have the right idea!



I had a chat with some locals, they think we are mad.



Don arrives and we head of, on the way we go look at a UNESCO site, another temple ruin Wat Umo





Not much of it left, lots of History mind you







Dons mapping everything.





Me, I'm to hot and feeling a bit weird again. I'm on my last legs

I wander of into the shade towards to river.



it's not long before I'm smiling again, some locals are down there fishing having a ball




Cheers me up



On this note we decide to leave, Dons gives me a waypoint in town and I'm gone as fast as I can get some breeze. Once in Pakse I cant believe how badly they all drive, people just pull out without even looking, damn right scary, the junctions where just a big free for all.







Safely back in the Hotel and get cleaned up and cooled of that's it for me. I have been pushing myself to the limit, I was ready to throw in the towel after the HM trail, my hand is still really sore after a couple more off’s in the sand, I'm limping, my heads cut and I'm finished.

Myself and Don went and had some nice food and a bottle of red, it had been a real eye look into a mappers world I had enjoyed and made a new friend in Don, he's great company and a trail riding king, he wasn't even sweating.

Don agreed I had earned my Bronze trail-riding badge, which means a lot to me, is it in the post Don?

Sleep....

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