Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/266.html



We've been on the move, gallivanting all over Europe for a month now, and while it's been amazing to spend time with friends, it'll be nice just to stay in one place for a while. Since we sold Neda's mom's apartment last year we don't have a place in Pula anymore. Iva's dad has an apartment in Medulin, which is a sleepy town less than 10 kms outside of Pula, so this is where we've settled in ever since arriving.


Carolyn, our friend from one of the motorcycle forums, sent Neda a cross-stitch pattern of one of our pictures from the trip.
Because of all the free time we've had in the last while, it's coming along nicely!

We've remained stationary for over a week now and it's so satisfying just to unpack everything around us and relax. Neda's friends realize that we're locals now so there's not as much of a mad rush to plan get togethers. The weather is absolutely gorgeous, which is surprising for this time of year. We were in Pula exactly one year ago and I remember how cold, wet and miserable it was when winter drove us out of Croatia. Now, it's 20C and sunny every day. If the weather continues to stay like this, we may be able to linger here for awhile longer to recover before we're forced to head further south once again.


Neda is so happy that she has a kitchen again. We're eating great home-cooked meals every day

It's a good thing we have transportation, unlike last year when we were waiting for our bikes to arrive from South America. Neda is able to ride into Pula and go grocery shopping every morning to get fresh food for us. Being from the coast, Neda loves seafood, so she's been buying a lot of fish from the markets in town, straight off the fishing boats. She's preparing all her favorite Croatian dishes from her youth.

Me, I've basically gone into hibernation mode. All I do is eat seafood, sleep and watch TV. I have zero motivation to do anything else. I can't believe how tired I am. It's been so draining just moving from place to place and I'm soaking up all of this downtime like a sponge. It feels like I could do nothing for months and not get sick of it.

We're still figuring out where we're going to end up, but one thing is certain: it doesn't make sense to go back to Canada in the wintertime. I think the plan right now is to follow the warm weather, stop moving when the climate is tolerable and put off any decision-making until the spring when there are more options available to us.

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

It's my fourth birthday on the road. These annual milestones make me think back to where we were on each anniversary. We celebrated my first birthday on the road in San Jose, California. Then the next one on the Stahlratte between Panama and Colombia. Then last year we were in Switzerland. Amazing to recall all the places that we've been!

For my birthday, Neda organized a day ride around Istria!


Our first stop is to see a kazun

In the area around Pula, there are these little circular, stone huts everywhere in the fields. They're called Kazun (Ka-joon) and were originally built as shelters for workers in the olive gardens to take a break from the elements, but these days they're basically tool sheds or ornamental structures. Actually, these days you'll see more kazuns as tiny souvenirs sold in the tourist shops as a symbol of Istria. When Neda and I first started dating, she gave me one of these tiny souvenir kazuns and I kept it on my desk at work to remind me of her.

I've seen many kazun in the fields outside of Pula, but this is the first time we've stopped to actually pose in front of one! I like the word Kazun because it sounds like you're sneezing. Kazun! Kazun-Teit!


Making our way to the east coast

Neda's route for the day hugs the rugged eastern coast of the Istrian peninsula. It used to be the primary eastern route traveling north-south to the mainland before the highway was built. These days it's just local traffic and vehicles out for a leisurely cruise.


We're going to start our coastal tour at the town of Rabac


Unfortunately we couldn't find the coastal road. Turns out it doesn't start in Rabac, but further north


So back to the mainland, up north and then cutting back to the coast. But first, more pictures in pretty Rabac!!!

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

We stop for a Kitteh-petting break in the town of Plomin

The coastal road starts in Plomin. There is a beautiful inlet where cruise ships and cargo ships come in. This is also the site of the Plomin Power Plant, a coal-fired power station which supplies 13% Croatia's electricity requirements.


I walk out to the cliffs at Plomin to get a shot of the inlet


Behind me, the Kitteh follows me looking for more hugs (or probably food). Sorry Kitteh, I'm allergic to you!!!


Also in Plomin is the Hotel Flanona

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Before the highway was built, when Neda used to take the bus from Rijeka to Pula, it would always stop here. She would see tons of bikers in the parking lot suiting up to tackle the twisty coastal roads that start and end here. Now we're part of that action!


Lots of bikes taking advantage of the beautiful late fall weather. Neda's old transportation in the background...


From the deck of the hotel/restaurant you can get a better view of the inlet


And then, back on the road to do some twisties

We passed dozens of bikers going up and down the coastal road between Plomin and Opatija, which is at the top of the peninsula. It's about a 30km stretch of very twisty asphalt with an amazing view of the coast constantly at our side. Sportbikes zoom past us, sticking their right leg out to say hi (that's how they do it in Europe). Actually, not just sportbikes, all bikes pass us and wave their right leg out as if to say, "Wow, you guys are slow." A minivan also passes us, the passenger rolls down her window and she sticks her leg out at us.

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Krk is the largest island in Croatia, a popular tourist destination because of the beaches and the old walled city

Surprisingly, Neda's never ever been to Krk. So this was a first for both of us. We had to ride over a 1.5km bridge to get to the island which took us high above the Rijeka Bay of the Adriatic Sea.

My favorite part of Krk is its name. I like that it has no vowels, so when you say it it sounds like you're clearing your throat. Basically if you make a lot of involuntary noises, you're already well on your way to learning Croatian!

There are a whole bunch of Croatian words that rhyme with Krk that have no vowels. Neda and I make up a silly rhyme for all of them: Srk, Mrk, Brk, Trk, Krk... Helps pass the time when we are in our helmets...


Like the true Istrians that we are, we have a nice seafood dinner at Krk


Neda orders squid! A classic Istrian dish.


Marina at Krk

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Our tour leader, Captain Krk, sitting outside the walls of the old city


Marina pictures. Sun is setting so early, we have to get back to Medulin


Packing up to go home


Going back over Krk bridge, I stop to snap a nice picture before sunset


Merging back on to the traffic on the bridge

Another wonderful birthday on the road! And totally enjoying our R&R in Croatia!

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/267.html



We've been in Croatia for over two weeks now. The apartment we've been staying in in Medulin is getting well lived in. Neda is out all the time with her girlfriends and I am relishing all the time I have to sleep and do nothing in between sleeping. I even manage to get some blog posts written up!

The weather has been holding up very nicely. Everyone here remarks how unseasonably warm it is for Istria. This is good news. It means we don't have to pull up stakes and ride the bikes to some place warmer. I think Neda could stay in Istria for a very long time, she's very comfortable here. However we both would like to avoid the winter, and I'd like the option of staying mobile. Having the bikes snowed in for months is not too attractive a proposition for me.

But it looks like we don't have to worry about that for quite some time.

Rather than another "Didn't do anything. Life is good" blog post, here's a fun Istrian road trip we did recently:


The cast of characters for our road trip: The Pula Girls!!!

Yes, you can place the blame for the amazing weather we're having on the Pula Girls, Iva and Tajana. I remember just how sunny our Spanish tour with them was and how much fun it was to hang out with them on their vacation. They've offered to take us on a short tour to show us some other places in Istria that I haven't seen before. So on one fine sunny day (they're all sunny these days), we all jumped into Iva's car for a mini road-trip.


Our first stop of the day, the town of Roč

Roč (prononced "Wrotch") is about an hour's drive north of Pula. It's located in a area called the Glagolitic Alley, where artists have erected several monuments to celebrate the origins of the Glagolotic script, the oldest Slavic alphabet.


Walking through the gates of the walled city of Roč

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Pumpkins everywhere tell us we're late in the harvest season.



Roč is the geographical centre of Istria and the town has been set up as a shrine to the Glagolitic alphabet and its inventors, two Byzantine monks who traveled to this area to do missionary work.


A statue commemorates the Saints Cyril and Methodius, the two brothers who came up with the Glagolitic alphabet

Saint Cyril and Methodius transcribed the Bible into the Slavic language, devising the Glaglotic alphabet, which is the precursor to the Cyrillic alphabet that countries like Russia and Serbia still use today. Neda told me that she studied all of this in her history lessons in school. When we first started dating, she transcribed my name in Glagolitic on a beautiful card that she had made up by hand.

Remembering this and the kazun she gave to me when we first met really made me realize how connected she was to her Croatian heritage. We had met each other during her very first few months in Canada.


"RideDOT.com" in Glagolitic. Not a phonetic translation, just the keyboard alphabet transliteration


Enjoying the beautiful weather up on the stone walls of Roč

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Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

After walking around Roč, we hopped back in the car for a very short drive to Kotli, just a few kms away. There's a small waterfall there where we could go hiking around and then sit at a nearby cafe overlooking the water.


Hanging out in old familiar haunts

There's a watermill at the falls in Kotli. Neda told me how when she was a kid, her dad used to get called out for field work in this area. She would accompany him and they'd pack a ham sandwich for lunch and eat it here out on the rocks by the falls. She told me that she remembered thinking that those were the most delicious ham sandwiches ever.

I could listen to Neda talk about her childhood all day. Her stories about the memories she made in all of these places are way more interesting than any wikipedia article I could cut and paste.


Tajana and Neda hanging out at the waterfall


I made a new friend!


Autumn leaves collect on the water

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

After the waterfalls, Iva and Tajana took us to the nearby town of Hum


Hum bills itself as the smallest town in the world. And also proudly boasts being part of the Glagolitic Trail


Walking through the gates of the medieval town of Hum




Hum is pronounced "Hoom". Population: 20

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Childhood friends just chilling out

I'm a bit mystified by female friendships. They lack the common bonds that typify male friendships, like burping, farting and making jokes and laughing about burping and farting. Also, I've noticed female nicknames are more endearing. Usually they're a cutesified version of their real names. Tajana's nickname is Tayo. Iva's nickname is Zoof (for her last name).

Men's nicknames are usually bestowed after the least attractive part of their body or the most embarrassing thing their friends have seen them do (most often while drunk). They can get so insulting and demeaning that if anyone outside the circle of guy friends were to use that nickname, it would be instant grounds for a fist fight.

Neda and I have pretty much been each others sole source of companionship for over three years, literally joined at the hip for all that time. We're husband and wife, and each other's best friends. But it's difficult to fulfill the other's need for same-sex friendships. Actually, it's only difficult for me, since I've got a million nicknames for Neda (she's still not too happy about "My little Smartie") and I constantly make burp and fart jokes around her anyway...

I can see that being back in Pula with her childhood friends is really filling that need for gals-only time that she was sorely missing while being on the road. I suppose I could learn to paint toenails and talk and talk and talk for hours and hours and hours. And not burp and fart so often... No, that last part's a dealbreaker. Not gonna happen.



I see how Neda is when she's here and happy and laughing and enjoying herself. That makes me so incredibly happy myself.


Talking about girl stuff. And then minutes later, they broke out the toenail polish...


In comparison, men just like to hang out with each other and be dogs,
chase bitches around and sniff each others butts. Well maybe not that last part so much...

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Watching the sun slowly move across the sky in a familiar country, the NedaLands


Thanks Iva, for the great picture of us!


Half the population of Hum live in the buildings in this picture


The other half live here...


What a great day, hanging out with old friends!


Smell roses

You can travel for years and years, turn miles and miles beneath your wheels. You can chase every burning sunset to the ground of a different country every night, lie awake till morning to breathe in the foreign sky of a brand new day. Laugh at how funny these new words feel when they're rolling around in that same old mouth that you use to smile at strangers and talk and drink their wine until nobody's strange anymore. Or until everybody is. Fall in love with this, and leave. Fall in love with that. And leave.

And then sometimes you can stay awhile. Laugh with friends. Tell stories that you've told a hundred times to people that have heard those same stories a hundred times before. Because they're in those stories. You can watch the same sun fall to familiar ground every night. And you can smell roses in your own back yard.

You can stay awhile. Laugh with friends.

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

I have been following your adventures since you left toronto. over the holidays i saw a movie miracle of the bells. Guess what the actress alida Valli was in the movie with Fred McMurray and Frank Sinatra. She is also from Pula. Thought I would throw that in for Neda. You guys take care and hope to continue tracking you.

Thanks! Appreciate the encouragement!

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com

Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/268.html



Wow! Almost a month in Croatia and the weather is still amazing, which means that there's absolutely no reason to leave.

Here's a bunch of stuff we've done in the past week or so:


Putting around downtown Pula in the last few weeks of Fall

__________________
Gene - http://www.RideDOT.com