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31 Aug 2014
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
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Gorgeous Gorge Riding
We're on the road and things are starting to get a bit more interesting as we enter a large gorge, with the road hugging the sheer cliff sides. Other bikes are also on this route.
A route that takes us past some shops
A typical Himalayan bridge
Barbara walks across it first with two young women who we'd been talking to
Take a deep breath, close you eyes and just go for it!
I do a demonstration ride
And mind the other traffic while you're on it
A cold drink stop is required after that riding
And then continuing along the gorge - it looks great and it is, just not particularly when there are blind bends with buses and trucks coming the other way, the food vendors pushing their carts along and of course the random cows wandering around
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31 Aug 2014
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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Manali
Our destination for the night is the town of Mandi and our hotel is on the banks of the river, a chance to relax and enjoy watching the river whilst having a chat and a cold on the hotel terrace
We take some unorthodox routes at times
which is all part of the fun in India.
Also getting up close with some of the animals
Typical traffic on the road - this trio on their bike
A lunch stop on the banks of the river, and Jill who rows for her village gig rowing team and is always interested in all things rowing poses with an oar
Another riverside activity is this
Hanging above the rapids suspended from a couple of cables and being bounced up and down into the raging water below - it looked a lot of fun and I'd like to give it a go sometime, just ran out of time on this trip.
We'd reached Manali, the start of the trickier sections of riding and a very picturesque town
Lots to see, particularly in the old parts of town, where there are many traditional buildings
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6 Sep 2014
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Manali Meanderings
Thanks folks, good to have you along on the ride - maybe next year Karen (duchess) you might join us for real - I've seen you in action with Si Pavey, I know you can do this
Meanwhile, in Manali, we're getting to the end of our sightseeing and I appear to be having problems with my camera
Maybe I need one of these for good luck - it's the chillies dangling from the front grille - I think it's called a puja and they're to ward off evil
Here's a close up of it
For decades, Manali has been on the Hippy Trail, and here was proof that they are still alive and kicking
A brief pause outside a hairdresser's salon - I loved the posters
We have an evening of relaxation, a meal at Chopsticks, and a wander on the streets of Manali which seem to really come to life after dark when the snow tourists are out and about.
A genuine Indian head massage is on offer here - though to be fair, it does look a bit more sinister than that.
My personal favourite were the rabbits
Kids were queuing up to hold them and have a picture taken (for a fee), though to my eye they looked a bit nasty - more General Woundwort than Thumper - I watched Watership Down at an impressionable age. They're angora rabbits which they comb and use the fur for knitting.
On the other side of the street, Barbara was in demand as a photographic model, being asked by lots of different families to pose for photos with them
off to bed early as tomorrow it's back on the bikes, as we head out of town on this bridge
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6 Sep 2014
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Introduction to Off-Roading - the Coates Way
It was time to get dirty- some off-road riding practice for my group - some of whom have only ever ridden on the smooth tarmac of the UK
we cross the bridge out of town and take to some quiet roads out of Manali
lots of concentration as I take them through gravel, sand, dust and small river crossings not to mention narrow tracks around the hillside
Past women washing clothes by the street
We arrive at Ride Inn
Just Ride Inn
A place that I'd stayed at on my way up. We parked alongside the other Enfields
where another group had just arrived back from Ladakh
We made our way up to the terrace café bar where everything is made from parts of motorbikes
Including the ashtrays
We found the map on the wall very useful
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there are various inspirational travel quotes on the walls
a chance for Barbara to relax and enjoy a cold drink
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6 Sep 2014
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Dirt Achieved
While at Ride Inn, we got a bit star-struck when we recognised Vinod who appears in the great bike travel film One Crazy Ride
Take a look here to see more about it - some incredible bridge riding.
Dirt Track Productions - One Crazy Ride
It was time to head back into town
More confident riding all round
Safely back at the hotel, I celebrate our off-road prowess with a bottle of and a sigh of relief - I know I can get them over the Himalayas
Then out to dinner, where we are joined by Moksha Jetley - local rider, bike guide and a legend, she has just completed the gruelling ride from Leh to Manali non-stop in one day, it took her 20 hours - an incredible feat.
She is also great fun and full of energy, we enjoyed chatting to her about life in India - as a female rider.
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6 Sep 2014
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Rohtang
Up early the next morning, we load up and off we head, this is the mountain that is in our sights - Rohtang.
As we leave town, the streets are lined with shops like these that cater to the snow tourists - hiring out snowsuits to those venturing up to see this strange white stuff at the top of the mountain
We start to ascend -safety barriers are an unknown concept over here
It's a beautiful ride
Then conditions start to deteriorate, we're above the tree line and the snow appears
This is when the riding really does start to get tricky
We're riding through slippery mud on the edge of a 200 foot drop with cars inching along next to us
There's a bit of a bottleneck ahead, you can see the queue of traffic waiting to get down and around the bend which is virtually snow covered.
And on the other side of the cars we hear some cheery Aussie voices
It's a honeymoon couple from Melbourne in Australia, who have chosen to ride across the Himalayas on a tandem bike.
We have time for a quick chat and then we move on, through the fast-flowing water on the corner and over the rocks and boulders that litter the ground. Far too dodgy for me to take a photo. But this is Barbara's face immediately AFTER she got through
I'm so proud of my riders getting safely through this first major obstacle.
At the top is a lot more snow
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6 Sep 2014
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SnowY Exploits
Snow everywhere
and snow tourists as well
We'd stopped close to the top- the worst was behind us (for the moment) and we wanted to get our breath back - a bit of a mistake at 4600m where oxygen is scarce. We were also fascinated by the snow tourists who flock up here from the hot plains . Above is a picture showing racks of fur coats for rent.
and here are some of the tourists, horseback rides and sledging being just some of the varied activities on offer
we took some photos and I get well and truly photo-bombed
Hmm, a bit over-friendly, not sure if it's the rather fetching balaclava that did it for him
we found some more normal people who wanted some photos with us
The woman in yellow is on her honeymoon, accompanied by not only her new husband but also various other members of the family.
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8 Sep 2014
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More Snowy Exploits
We'd entered a whole new snowy world and we were pretty excited at reaching the top of Rohtang, knowing that we would be leaving all the endless streams of snow tourist cars behind as we descended the other side. First we had to make the most of being in the snow
Some bike and snow pictures were called for - but first we had to get into position
Result!!
I attempted to ride on snow
with limited success.
A final hurrah - we've made it. Then off down the mountain
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8 Sep 2014
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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She'll Be Coming Round the Mountain
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20 Sep 2014
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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Great!!! Must get back and do this route again. The Leh to Srinagar via Zanskar is fantastic too. If only you could buy some sort of small dual-sport in India, but I guess Enfields are part of the experience.
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11 Oct 2014
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Still Coming Down the Mountain
We start to go a bit faster because we know there's a cup of tea waiting in the village at the foot of the mountain
Just a couple more water crossings
The track we're on starts to resemble more of a road
We know the village is down there somewhere, the ride is starting to feel a bit endless.
We made it, and stop at the first tea shop we spot
A welcome break with cups of tea in the sunshine and warmth - and phew, almost normal levels of oxygen in the air.
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11 Oct 2014
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Headlong to Keylong
Jackets and helmets back on, we get back on the bikes
Negotiating the narrow alley past the tea shop
We were pleased to see tarmac
there were even bridges over the rivers
some more modern than others
But we still had the occasional reminder of snow
That is a massive snow bank hanging over the edge of the road.
The final approach to the village of Keylong - and our destination for the night included squeezing past a bulldozer
One bike stalled as it passed and hit the bulldozer - but these are Enfields and we think the bulldozer came off worse. It did mean that the rest of us were a bit more cautious
and before we knew it, we were checking in
We sat out on the balcony of our third floor rooms, admiring the views
Life couldn't get any better...or could it?
A plate of the best vegetable pakora I'd eaten so far
We were still at more than 3000m, and at these altitudes, and after the riding we'd done, simple tasks are tiring - hence the lying down to clean teeth!
Phew, our group had made it safely over the first big mountain pass - I could relax...at least until tomorrow.
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