Its excellent, well done. I have been many places in the world, but not SE Asia, closest was Hong Kong. All being well, its a place I would like to go and see.
I am uncertain about Vietnam, one of my friends brother had a very bad allergic reaction to anti-malarial tablets and died in Hanoi, and I feel a bit uneasy by the event, it was rough, but I suppose part of real life, sometimes it doesnt go well.
Anyway, take care and be safe and kind regards.

It was indeed a fun trip. And yes I had also noticed earlier on, especially during my 30 day trip all through Laos in 2015 that gas stations were far and few. But that had really changed a lot. Nowadays even remote gravel stretches had gas stations with no huge distances inbetween....

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 7 - riding from Phongsali to Nong Khiaw.

This was a ride of around 350 kms and the first 95 was backtracking to Boun Tai, then further to Oudomxai and then to Nong Khiaw.

It had again rained heavily that early morning and the fog hang low over the province of Phongsali. So I had to ride slowly and just a few kms out of town I ran straight into a landslide that blocked the road totally. And excavator had already started to clear the road but it was huge so it would be some time until the road was passable. Some bystanders pointed me up a goattrack over a small hill. It looked dubious, where would I end up taking that track? Then a couple of local scooters came and rode straight up the hill and disapeared over the top of the hill. Ok - if they can I can too. So I set up across the hill and the steep descend on the other side led me straight through a village so that chickens, dogs, ducks, geese, kids, pigs and goats jumped aside as best they could - and voila I was back on the main road. Unfortunately I didnt take any photos of this incident, something I regretted afterwards.
The roads on this stretch in unbelivably winding and curvous. Its one hairpin bend after the other for tens and tens of kms. It makes the more famous Mae Hong Son loop in Thailand look like a straight racetrack in comparison.
So 350 kms might not sound all that much - but even with an early start (to be me) at around 9 am I didnt arrive at Nong Khiaw before after dark.

Pic 1 - It was a misty morning riding out of Phongsali
Pic 2 - And the road wasnt all that much to boast about further down either
Pic 3 - A truck that didnt make the last hairpin turn
Pic 4 - Just a pic of dusty screen of my GPS to illustrate how winding this road stretch is
Pic 5 - Local bus transportation

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Ouch - he died from an allergic reaction to anti malaria medication? Thats very tragic and sad. Must he RIP...

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 8 - a mountain hike in Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw is a pleasant small rivertown who lies at a bend of the Nam Ou river. It has a tiny traveller/backpacker scene but one are not going to be overwhelmed in any way by the amount of tourists in town. Its maybe not even correct to call it a town, a village would probably be more correct. Prices are not inflated, I had a simple bungalow for 80 000 kip a night (~ 7 €/8,5 $) and slept like a log there with a frog choir lullabyed me to sleep.

There are many tours and activities one can spend time on in Nong Khiaw, jingle treks, river trips, trips to waterfalls and hike up to surrounding mountain summits. I spent 2 nights and one day in Nong Khiaw and decided to do a hike to the nearest mountain summit and viewpoint of Phou Padaeng. There is a relatively conveniant hiking trail made up the mountain side thus its a tiny little fee to be paid. The entrance to the hiking trail is in the southern outskirts of the town. The altitude climb is 460 meters and average time up is said to be ~2 hours and down ~1 hour.
Some pics from the hike to Phou Padaeng summit and viewpoint...

Pic 1 - No, not this mountain - but it made for a good photo.
Pic 2 - The entrance to the hiking trail of Phou Phadeang viewpoint
Pic 3 - The first part of the hike isnt too bad and had a nice rest area
Pic 4 - One start to get a glimpse of Nong Khiaw
Pic 5 - Half way to the viewpoint

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 8 continued - mountain hike in Nong Khiaw

Pic 1 - The trail gets steeper and rougher
Pic 2 - But soon at the summit...
Pic 3 - I made it to the Phou Phadaeng viewpoint/summit
Pic 4 - Magnificent view over Nong Khiaw
Pic 5 - Oh well, I wasnt the only one who made the hike that day

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 8

Some pics from Nong Khiaw

Pic 1 - The Nam Ou river upstreams
Pic 2 - Sunset over the Nam Ou river
Pic 3 - Riverlife in Nong Khiaw
Pic 4 - Ditto
Pic 5 - For dinner I treated myself with a meal of delicious indian food

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 9 - Riding from Nong Khiaw to Xam Neua

This is a stretch of around 325 kms through some amazing scenery. The road is again incredibly winding with hairpin bend after hairpin bend for a big part of the stretch. Starting late meant that I arrived late too, and the last 1-2 hours I rode in complete darkness. But fortunately I had mounted some extra headlights on the Crf and they were good to have that evening.
Didnt take much photos that day but here some of the few I took...

Pic 1 - Great Laos scenery
Pic 2 - Ditto
Pic 3 - Crop terraces
Pic 4 - Some parts of the road were good
Pic 5 - Other parts were more bumpy

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

An interesting observation - it was broomstick making season all over northern Laos in January/February...

Pics from different locations

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 10 - Checking out the town of Xam Neua

Xam Neua is situated in the northeast of Laos, not far from the Vietnamese border. Its also the provincial capital of the Houaphan province. The town has almost 50 000 inhabitants and the whole province has approx 290 000 persons living there.
This area used to be the stronghold of the Pathet Lao communist movement and the town still have a Sovjet-ish style on the government buildings etc. In nearby Vieng Xai the old HQ of the Pathet Lao movement can be seen in a labyrint of caves. However I had been there last time I was here and this time I had something totally different in mind. However it was a cloudy day and it looked like it was going to rain, and I was also a bit knackered after a long day in the Crf saddle the day before - so I decided to stay in town and have a look at sights there.
Wikipedia about Xam Neua: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xam_Neua

Pic 1 - This monument is the first that greets you when you arrive in Xam Neua. It is called Suan Keo Lak Meuang and supposedly its an indipendence monument.
Pic 2 - And this mural must be something of a victory monument I suppose...?
Pic 3 - The government buildings in Xam Neua was a bit exaggerated
Pic 4 - Tourist information building
Pic 5 - Government building

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 10 - Checking out Xam Neua

Some more pics from Xam Neua

Pic 1 - The Nam Xam river that runs through Xam Neua
Pic 2-5 Random photos from Xam Neua

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

Day 10 - Checking out Xam Neua

Some more pics from Xam Neua

Pic 1 - The Nam Xam river that runs through Xam Neua
Pic 2-5 Random photos from Xam Neua

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

One of my favorite activities in farflung places is to check out the local markets. There are always something interesting, strange, obscure and surprising things to be found there. Xam Neua didnt disappoint in that matter. Viewers discretion warning!

Pic 1 - What about some delicious toads for dinner? Cheap price for you sir!
Pic 2 - Can I tempt you with some rice paddy rats?
Pic 3 - So youre a vegetarian? Ok - fresh bamboo shots/roots anyone?
Pic 4 - This berry I could never find the name for....
Pic 5 - Poor Fido - little did he knew at dusk that he would end up on the local meat marked later that afternoon. RIP Fido!

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....

I rode from Long Khiaw to Xam Neua a couple of years ago. Like you, the last hour was in full darkness. Unlike you, I did not have auxiliary lights. I was totally exhausted by then, and it was a bit hair-raising, but survivable.

Best thing I did in that area was ride out to Phou Pha Thi, where the CIA had a "secret" base, totally impregnable, for guiding bombing runs into North Vietnam. Of course everyone knew where it was, and of course the Path Lao overran it without much difficulty once they decided to do so. As an American it took a lot of finagling to get permission to wander around the remains of the old base, but it was a good glimpse into a different perspective on the era of my childhood. Unlike the tunnels, I was the only one there (along with mandatory military escort), and perhaps the first American.

Thanks for the photos and narrative!

Mark

Thanks for the memories Kurt, it was nice to see some pics of Laos, it's been a long time since we were both there.

Wayne

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The Balkans
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