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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 19 Dec 2011
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Lesotho 2011

Down, down, down….!
They say running downhill is much harder than uphill, during my time in the army we used to run up a hill in the Pentlands, Scotland affectionately known as ‘COs Hill’. Getting up it was a bitch and yet the return was worse, the strain on the knees, constant fear of a busted ankle whilst slipping and using your face as a brake should a trip occur. Time constraints were in force the morning we awoke in the Backpackers accommodation so an early start was necessary. The border opens at 6am and we needed to be away soonest in the hope of making Cape Town the next evening.


Making our way to the ‘start line’ at the top of the pass we noticed the cold biting due to the altitude, something I hadn’t noticed the day before. The KLR was giving off some rubbing noises which we found was the plastic chain guard against the chain itself, this was due to the sub frame bolt and it’s temporary fix making the chassis twist ever so slightly, a cable tie soon put that right. A white pickup driver informed us that the official who stamps the passport was still in bed after working a late shift and may only be available after 6am, so we had time to take a few pictures and chat to the local truck drivers. I wasn’t worried about the severity of the pass for if a truck can do it, I’m damn sure an enduro bike shall have no problems. After being bored for ½ hour I decided to check out the ‘Customs’ building, lo and behold it was occupied and I had my exit stamp in a flash..! Informing Al, who did the same and we were off.
The view at the top of the Sani Pass, especially in the early morning is a sight to behold, the sheer distance that can be seen is breath taking, ever decreasing shades of terrain in the distance reminded me of stage backdrops at the theatre showing the perfect view. The weather was dry and calm and perfect riding conditions in the knowledge that once we progressed down it would warm up and warm up it did!


I took the lead for Al had been on the pass before and riding the heavier BMW he took it steady with the extra weight. The famous switchbacks start almost immediately and rider positioning is all important, weight back, look up, don’t ride the brakes and use the engine gearing. The KLR is an enduro dual purpose bike and its gearing shows this. Attempting to use 1st gear to slow the bike downhill was a little too fast for me on the tight switchbacks so I applied slight braking to help, switching between front and rear so as not to overheat the callipers. This time I would have preferred a smaller bike, WR450 perhaps? The further down I went the more awesome the view became and a couple of stops were required to take it all in which wasn’t easy due to the sharp decline and the loose rocks that made the track. Occasionally looking back to see Al concentrating on the BMW, I could sense he was enjoying the challenge the extra weight gave him. The concentration required warmed me up to where I had a sweat under my helmet, I was thankful for having a flip-up helmet. I hate full face lids and only wear them at speed but this was slipping forward and annoying ‘look up Geoff, look up’. My shoulders tightening, neck straining looking up and forward, the previous days trek making my wrists ache. We hadn’t had breakfast yet, normally I’m a grumpy bastard when I haven’t eaten but at this moment, I couldn’t have been further away from caring as THIS WAS BRILLIANT..! It was like teenage sex, short, sharp, exciting and intense, banging a chick yet looking out the window at an ever better chick and after a couple of Km’s/ minutes it was over WAAAY too quickly! The track begins to level and more resembles a green laning exercise, the hard part done, time for the post coital cigarette at the SA border crossing and the slog back to Cape Town.
So there for me was the Sani Pass and Lesotho, one of the shortest yet most spectacular rides I’ve ever done in my life. I’m not a writer and never proclaimed to be, I’m a Yorkshire man and now my knuckles are beginning to hurt from typing. Yet for me it was an intense paced rollercoaster few days of disappointment and elation, failure and success, exhaustion and friendship, my riding ability tested more than ever and the companionship of a truly good friend and fellow rider with his unwavering ‘Maak ‘n Plan’ mentality. I owe my eternal gratitude to Al and one day in the future it will be my pleasure to return the compliment.
Daft yet extremely happy Yorkshire man..!!

Looking back, I would have loved to have turned around and headed back up, which was the original plan (I hate being pushed for time!) but it was not to be, did I truly ‘do’ the Sani Pass? To some, a resounding ‘no’ will holler but the pass isn’t going away for a long time and rumours of it being tarred soon sound pretty unreasonable as they have been spoken about for years. During our mad dash, we’d gained higher altitudes of 3,200m in Lesotho and done much harder technical riding further north of the country, The Sani was a ‘tick in the box’ and if I didn’t do it right, well………….. let’s put it this way, it’ll not be tarred by next year!!
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