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4 Jul 2013
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Gold Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 675
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Los Exonerados - a Trip in South America
It's me again, I know things have been a bit quiet on the Tiffany's Travels front, but my Dad was unwell over the last year and so I spent some time with him and my mum to remind them what a peaceful life they lead the rest of the time!
I'm pleased to report that he is making a good recovery and so once more I could look to far horizons.
First step was leaving Lands End
Yep, it's long distance travel with full bike gear and not a bike in sight as I took ferry, train and bus to get to Heathrow and flew out...my final destination being Antofagasta, Northern Chile (that's South America for the geographically challenged)
Hmm, Antofagasta, what can I say about it except that it's like Newcastle-Upon-Tyne with palm trees
and train loads of copper running through the city centre
It felt so wrong to be flying over the Equator, ever since I started this bike travel lark, I've only ever ridden across it, but needs must, I was heading out on a mission for World of BMW
The clues were there..nice riding gear and no Thelma (my R80GS who goes everywhere with me) instead a posh bike parked outside a nice hotel...
as I get transformed into...Tiffany Coates - Motorcycle Tour Guide
(As opposed to Tiff, the scruffy overlander on a battered machine)
I'm here in South America for World of BMW, riding the BMW R1200GS to lead a group of 10 riders through northern Chile and Peru.
The bike has just over 9,000 miles on it, and not a spot of rust anywhere. I had 48 hours to get my bearings, sort out my paperwork and then await the group.
and here are some of my lovely group
The bloke on the truck is Thomas, from Germany originally but living and working in Chile as a motorbike guide and mechanic for Motoaventura Chile.
And why is this trip entitled Los Exonerados (the exonerated or excused)?? Because of our manners on the roads we travelled- my apologies to those we came across, especially the toll booth staff attempting to do their jobs on the toll roads of Peru and who did NOT want bikes coming through. I'd ride through after the group and find people shaking their heads at the fact that these ignorant foreigners just don't know what the bike etiquette is in this part of the world.
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6 Jul 2013
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Registered Users
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Emerald Queensland Australia
Posts: 251
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Tiffany we like both Tiffany's!
Have really enjoyed your photo's on facebook,looks like you have a little catching up to do here.I have to admit to never hearing of the city either.Regards Noel.
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6 Jul 2013
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Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 675
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Salar de Atacama
WARNING This post could seriously change your life as you look at the pictures and dream of far of places that look as beautiful as this....
A somewhat jet-lagged group set off that first morning, following the straight roads that headed east under a clear blue sky
We're in the Atacama Desert, the driest spot on the planet and without a hint of greenery, I've crossed a lot of deserts in my time and it's often surprising how much grows there, but not at the Atacama - a dry, grey landscape stretched away in all directions.
breaks to enjoy the view and to grab some snacks,
and for me to change my hairstyle to summer riding (some people change their jackets, mine is my hair).
We're mostly on the BMW 1200GS with a couple of smaller bikes thrown in for good measure
our destination, San Pedro de Atacama a town in the foothills of the Andes, but first we had the Salar de Atacama to cross- a huge expanse of salt flat, not as well-known as its near neighbour the Salar de Uyuni but just as stunning.
To our relief, after over 100 miles of dead straight tarmac, the road started to get a few curves in it
and there was the Salar in front of us
bloody great lumps of salt mixed with hardened clay!
Luckily they've made a sort of road across the Salar, not surprisingly it's made of salt, and actually it's quite a good surface to ride on
The landscape and scenery is just spectacular
The rest of the group arrive and we all get busy with our cameras
it's not as easy to walk on as it looks

I look around at this amazing environment with its breathtaking views...or maybe that's the lack of oxygen, and I just think to myself how bloody lucky I am
The urge to travel and having a bike really can take you anywhere.
Last edited by Tiffany; 10 Jul 2013 at 08:51.
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6 Jul 2013
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Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 675
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Catching Up??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noel900r
Have really enjoyed your photo's on facebook,looks like you have a little catching up to do here.I have to admit to never hearing of the city either.Regards Noel.
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Good grief Noel, my whole life has a lot of catching up to do, never mind blogging for others to follow!!
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10 Jul 2013
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
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The Tatio Geysers
Having arrived at San Pedro de Atacama after a great day of riding, we set our alarm clocks for the unearthly hour of 4.00am. It's going to be a special day if a rather long one...
We’re going to see one of the Andes Mountains’ best kept secrets, sunrise at the world’s highest geyser fields.
The Tatio Geysers
As a side issue, I am also testing out the new BMW GS Dry suit, so it was a bit ironic that my initial ride with it was across teh driest desert in the world. however the geysers gave me a chance to try them in the wet as I wandered through
We’re up at 4250 metres, and feeling the effects of the lack of oxygen, it doesn't stop us fooling around a bit
We pose for pictures as the beams of light cut through the steam, giving an eerie look.
The Bolt somehow becomes our team look for the rest of the trip as you'll see.
There's some movement and we spot El Zorro...The Fox
I hear splashing and spot some pools
And although it's a bit chilly in the early morning and and we're at altitude, it doesn't take me long to get in the water as well
Followed by a few of my group...
The water temperature is like a warm bath with a hot end where the boiling springs enter and a cold end where the freezing snow melt seeps in.
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10 Jul 2013
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Gold Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
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Valle de la Luna
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14 Jul 2013
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lands End, Cornwall, UK
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Riding in Chile
Discussing routes, whilst eating crisps.
My meat-eating customers had no problems with tucking into llama kebabs
I have to confess this was the first llama we saw..
Roads were tarmac once more
No, it's NOT a sign for a brothel but one that indicates the location of the nearest Ladies' Loo.
Negotiating with Customs
Later keeping an eye on the customers whilst having a break from riding
the ghost town of Humberstone, first settled in the 1860's then abandoned virtually overnight 100 years later, the place is spooky to walk around, but fascinating.
The new Word of BMW Support Vehicle
There's so much to see in South America, not least the unusual wildlife, these are vicuna- wild cousins of the llama and alpaca and rarely seen, we were lucky to spot them.
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
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