We arrived back in lower Manhattan, after a long day of walking around the city, to a delicious meal. Wayne, who is originally from England, served us a traditional meal of Yorkshire Pudding, potatoes and vegetables. Even Theresa, who is the cook in the family, was impressed.

We spent our last night in New York City getting ready for our flight to Iceland that we were to take the following morning. We had a great time visiting Theresa and her family, and we can't thank them enough for sharing their cozy Manhattan apartment with us for the week.

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

August 5, 2013 - August 19, 2013

We arrived at the airport just shortly after 12am. I was surprised by the amount of light still left in the northern sky. Without a motorcycle it felt strange, almost a little lonely. Rocky searched outside the airport for a place to pitch our tent but I had doubts that we'd be ok to camp on airport grounds. It seemed there was no place to hide, the land was flat and there were no trees in sight. Apparently, only 1.4% of Iceland has trees. Just outside of the parking lot exit was a small area of planted bushes. I'm not sure how Rocky managed to find the narrow path of patio stone that led him through the bushes and into an open area just large enough to fit our tent. It seemed kind of random, but I'm guessing that a patio was created with a bush garden around it and nobody ever trimmed the hedges. Regardless, it was a perfect hiding spot for our tent.



Early the next morning, we packed our bags and created a sign that read Keflavik. Rocky nominated me to hold the sign and stick out my thumb. Had I shaven, I may have stuck out my leg, but to my surprise, it only took 10 minutes before a man named Tomas picked us up. The town of Keflavik wasn't too far, it only took us a few minutes to get there. Tomas dropped us off on a main road in front of a Subway Sandwich Restaurant. Can anyone guess what we ate for lunch? At least we would begin searching for a cheaper way to eat, that sub cost almost twice the price we were accustomed to paying.


We knew we would be waiting at least five days for the bike and that kind of sucked. We chose the type of luggage we have because it is easy for the bike to carry, not us. It would be awkward and difficult to travel by foot and carry all of our belongings. Besides, I'm far too lazy for that. We decided to stay in Keflavik and work on trying to catch up on our website. Rocky found an open Internet connection at a library and we pitched our tent in the park across the street so that we would be able to keep an eye on our stuff as we sat inside. We just hoped that nobody would say anything about a tent being pitched in the center of town in a public park.

Our first night went well and we heard no complaints. We kept the tent pitched and walked across the road to the library in the morning. Still tired, I decided to take a walk to go search for coffee. I approached a man and asked him if he knew where I could find good cheap coffee. He laughed and replied, "Nothing is cheap in Iceland" and then continued walking. I approached the second man who walked past me, and again I asked if he knew where I could find good, cheap coffee. He laughed and replied, "My dear, nothing is cheap in Iceland". I became sad and slightly crazy with the thought that coffee in Iceland might be out of our budget. I continued walking up the road until I reached a restaurant. I asked the girl behind the counter how much for each cup of coffee and she replied, "They come free with a combo, just take some." Things might be expensive in Iceland but kindness makes up for it!



After another night in the park, I was shocked that nobody had asked us to leave. After all, we were visibly camping in the center of town. Once again we went to the library to work on our website. To my surprise, I could hear two ladies behind me speaking Portuguese. Maybe it was the familiarity that comforted me in this foreign land, but their words sounded like music to my ears. I immediately introduced myself to Angela and her mother Laura. They are originally from Angola in Africa and have been living in Iceland for many years. Angela was in the process of opening up a coffee shop in the area of the library we were sitting at. That excited me. I asked her if I could purchase two coffees and she made me two Cafe Lattes. When I asked her how much, she told me that she could not legally sell anything yet because she was supposed to receive her business license that day, but was having difficulties. She refused payment and seemed happy to give us complimentary coffee. But, we weren't the only ones to receive special treatment. As she cleaned and organized her shop, many customers asked to purchase coffee and she politely continued to serve it for free. Her kindness was not typical of a business owner but I believe that because of it she will be very successful.

After a few days, Angela hadn't got her license yet but continued to insist on giving us free coffee and food. She said it was because we were her first (none paying) customers and we were going through some troubles waiting for something important as well. She also told us, numerous times, that if we needed anything not to hesitate asking. I'm not sure she knew how kind she had already been. On the Friday of that week, she invited us to join her and her parents, Amandio and Laura, for dinner at her house. We left our belongings with the tent and went to her house. Dinner was delicious and the conversations were great. Amandio taught me a lot of history about the Portuguese people of Africa and the civil war that took place. It was history I was never aware of, interesting to know. I really enjoyed getting to know this family.


It was almost 10 pm when we had returned to our tent and our things had been left untouched. Never-mind, I take that back. As Rocky lay in the tent and gazed at the stars, he wondered why he was able to see the sky. There was a tare on the top of our tent. It was an odd location for the tent to be cut, unless it wasn't cut but torn instead. As I cleaned the area to attempt a patch job, I noticed a bit of dirt. I'm pretty sure that one of the many drunken kids roaming the street on that Friday night may have thrown a rock, which would cause the tent to rip. To make matters worse, we didn't have our patch kit with us, it was in the side bag of the motorcycle. I had no choice but to use what I had, to patch the tare. Electrical tape and bandages was going to have to do the trick. Luckily the rain wasn't much that night and we woke up dry.

The day before, we had been approached by a man who had introduced himself as Gylfi Jón. He is the director of education and works above the library, beside the Mayors office. Oh yeah, by the way, we were camped in front of the Mayors office all week. Hah! Anyway, Gylfi Jón invited us to have lunch with him and we were happy to join. We packed up all of our bags, because we no longer trusted leaving our belongings unattended, and we went to a place that Gylfi Jón called his Hut. Located on the southwestern coast of Iceland, the Hut is on farmland called Hafurbjarnarstadir. Good luck trying to pronounce that.




Gylfi Jón was a very polite character with a smile that suggested he was much funnier than he was reserved. He had a very gentle, calming effect, and he seemed really sincere. As he seasoned a plateful of lamb-chops and prepared some veggies, I got the impression that he was also a good cook. My thoughts were proven correct shortly after. I have never been a fan of lamb but it was absolutely delicious. Actually, those lamb-chops were the tastiest meat I have ever eaten.

After a full tummy, Gylfi Jón invited us to walk down to the shore and visit the lighthouse. The hut was surrounded by farmland occupied by gorgeous Icelandic horses. They appeared different from what I consider typical. Probably because the Icelandic horses remains a breed known for its purity of bloodline. It is the only horse breed present in Iceland because law prevents horses from being imported into the country, and exported animals are not allowed to return. Icelandic horses are short and stalky with beautiful wild manes. They display two gaits in addition to the typical walk, trot, and canter/gallop commonly displayed by other breeds. Tölt, the first additional gait is known for its explosive acceleration and speed. It is a comfortable, ground-covering ride. The breed also performs a pace called askeið, flugskeið or "flying pace". It is used in pacing races, and is fast and smooth, with some horses able to reach up to 30 miles per hour (48 km/h). It is not a gait used for long-distance travel. I kept imagining that one of them would let me jump on their back and they would Tölt me around the country.


The ocean was approximately 200 meters from the Hut. We followed the shore, decorated with arctic flowers, until we got to the lighthouse, more than one kilometer away. We immediately fell in love with this place. When we returned to the Hut, Gylfi Jón invited us to stay there until we received our motorcycle. Rocky and I were ecstatic. It was great to have this cute wooden home all to ourselves. It was well equipped with everything we needed to feel comfortable, but the best thing it featured was the shower. Located on the outside of the hut, was a showerhead poking out of the wall. Gylfi Jón warned us that the area was popular for bird watchers with their fancy binoculars. But, I imagine that bird watchers deserve some sort of excitement in their lives as well. Once the fireplace was lit, I was ready to run out in the cold to test the waters. It already felt great to feel hot water splash all over me as the cool wind blew past, but, to experience this as fields of horses grazed and the sun set below the oceans horizon, was extraordinary. I can't describe a more peaceful moment in my life.

Gylfi Jón showed up the following day and invited us to visit a geothermal area located nearby. He brought with him his friend Baldur, and a five-year-old girl named Anna, who is his girlfriend’s daughter. We visited an area that I could best describe as burnt earth. Steam rose up from the cracks and water bubbled with heat. In Iceland, history is told with magical stories. An extremely large percentage of Icelanders believe in trolls, ferries, ghosts and other things alike. Gylfi Jón wasn't one of them but he was a great storyteller as he expressed all of the tales. We walked along high cliffs that met the oceans shore and as we walked through a field, Anna grabbed for my hand and gestured for me to sit with her. She showed me a patch of Cow Berries and began picking them to eat. We sat there for a while staining our lips and fingers. After a great day of site seeing, I was thrilled that we had the opportunity to wander even though we had no motorcycle. It was also nice to make new friends. When we arrived at the Hut, Baldur asked us for our permission to be interviewed. He is a journalist for the newspaper DV and wanted to post an article about us, our travels and our time in Iceland. We awkwardly agreed with blushed cheeks. After interviewing us, he also offered us a vehicle for the following day. It was a very kind gesture and we were obviously excited to be able to explore some of Iceland. Iceland has been on top of our list of places to see in the world. Being there, but immobile, was such a tease.


The next morning, we hitchhiked to the bus station and took a bus into Reykjavik. The whole country of Iceland is only made up of 318,000 people and 200,000 of them live in the capital city of Reykjavik. We met up with Baldur at his job and picked up the car for a road trip. We had been experiencing a lot of rain but that day had been perfect for us. It felt strange to be touring around in a car but there were a few conveniences I really liked. It was much warmer and it was great to be able to sit back comfortably.




Baldur recommended that we visit a popular tourist route in South Iceland called the Golden Circle. The area covers approximately 300 km looping from Reykjavík into central Iceland and back. We first stopped at Þingvellir National Park. Iceland is situated on the Eurasian and North-American plate boundaries and the Þingvellir area is part of a fissure zone that runs through the country. Both continents are gradually moving apart from each other by an average of 3 mm each year and the cracks or faults, which traverse the region, can be clearly seen. From there we visited the geothermal active valley of Haukadalur. It is home to the geysers Strokkur and Geysir. Strokkur continues to erupt every 5-10 minutes and although Geysir has been inactive for a long time, its name has continued to be used to describe such a fairly rare phenomenon. Our last stop was to visit the waterfall, Gullfoss, meaning golden falls. It was large, powerful and absolutely gorgeous.

The day was almost over and we were about to drive to Baldur's house to drop off the car. But first, it would make perfect sense for us to offer a couple of hitchhikers a ride since we've hitched a few rides ourselves. Andreas and Melanie were heading in the same direction about half of an hour away. They were from Bavaria in Germany and were traveling through Iceland for a few weeks. Many people hitchhike in Iceland, it is very common. On route to driving them to there next location, we continued to enjoy the scenery of Iceland's fantastic landscapes.




When we arrived in Reykjavik, Baldur invited us into his home for dinner. He lived with his girlfriend Hulda and young son Emil and they spoiled us with a delicious, fresh Cod fish dinner. Yummy!!! Cod is my favorite cooked fish! After constantly meeting so many amazing strangers along our journey, people's kind and friendly nature continues across the world. Baldur and his family treated us as though we were lifelong friends and that is what we will continue to be. We were very fortunate to have met such caring people.

We spent another cozy night at the Hut, and the following day we finally received an email from Iceland Air Cargo. But, the news wasn't good. Our motorcycle was stuck in customs and would not be shipped until at least the following week. Kindly, Gylfi Jón welcomed us to stay at the Hut until the motorcycle arrived. For the next few days, Rocky and I would walk through the fields of horses to get to the lighthouse. Rain or shine, and it was mostly rain, we enjoyed the fresh air and the beauty that surrounded us. We really grew attached to theses beautiful creatures. A group of seven females lived directly beside the Hut. After spending many days with them it became natural to have names for each one. Eh was a black horse with a crimped mane, she got her name from the letters EH bleached onto her coat. I want to take her back to Canada, EH! Blackie, Brownie, Blondie where named after their colours. Blondie was Rocky's favourite, she was a great model for his photo sessions. I was happy that she stole the Paparazzi attention off of me. Little one was the smallest, I'm pretty sure that she was still a pony. Timid was the only one that didn't fully trust us. She could barely be bribed with food. Jerry was named Jerry because we didn't know what to name her. Everyday rewarded us with a sense of fulfillment as we were greeted by our new friends. This place was magical.


Throughout the week, Gylfi Jón would stop by to visit. Each time, he would surprise us with a delicious treat. First he brought us "hangikjöt" (smoked lamb cold-cut) on "flatbrauð" (thin rye flatbread) a traditional Icelandic treat. A couple of days later, he came by with Sole filets. A couple of days after that, he brought us Salmon. He even took us to meet his mom, Guðrún at her house to drop off our laundry. She was as kind and nurturing as he was. I was beginning to wish that Gylfi Jón would just adopt us and we could live at the Hut forever. He is one of the kindest men I have ever met.

By the end of the week, we finally received news that our motorcycle was ready to be picked up. Rocky and I hitched a ride to the airport and waited politely for our documents to be accepted. We walked over to the docking station and the cargo employees all circled around as the crate was delivered to us. It turns out that they had read the article about us in the DV newspaper, and were excited for us as well. After assembling the bike, we finally had the chance to introduce her to this beautiful land. For the first time after being in Iceland for two weeks, I realized how cold it was. My chin froze numb as we rode back to the hut for our last night there.

Usually, to be stranded somewhere would imply a negative experience. In our case, being stranded was awesome. A part of me was excited that the motorcycle finally arrived. But, I knew that I would deeply miss the little Hut by the sea.

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

On our flight to Iceland on Monday, we flew over Greenland and got a great view of massive glaciers and icebergs.

Our flight to Iceland arrived just before midnight on Monday. We camped out at the airport that night and the next day we decided to head to the nearby town of Keflaviík. There was no local bus service and we didn't want to spend $20 on a 4km cab ride, so we (I) decided to have Paula hitchhike. I knew that having her (instead of myself) standing there with her thumb out would drastically increase our odds of getting a ride. It took less than 10 minutes for someone to stop.

We had been camping in the town of Keflavík, in the park across the street from the public library, waiting for the motorcycle to arrive from New York. To get out of the rain, we spent the days sitting in the library, using the internet and working on the blog. On our second day there, Paula heard the familiar sound of someone speaking Portuguese, and introduced herself to the woman who was opening a coffee shop in the library. Angela was her name, and she had lived in Iceland for almost 20 years. She was setting up her new business of selling coffee and treats. Like us, Angela was also having trouble with getting her paperwork processed, so she was unable to legally sell anything. For the remainder of the week, she offered us and everyone who came into the library free food and coffee.

On the Friday, four days after arriving in Icleand, Angela invited Pala and I back to her home for a wonderful dinner and a nice, hot shower. There, we met her mother, Laura, and her, father, Amandio.

While hanging out in Keflavík Library that first week, we also met a man named Gylfi Jón. Gylfi Jón was the director of education in the area of Reykjanesbær. Gylfi Jón approached us at the end of the week while we were sitting in the library, and invited us out to his "hut" the following day for lunch. Gylfi Jón picked us up in front of the library the next day and cooked us a delicious dinner of lamb chops and potatoes. He also offered us a place to stay at his hut, which is a small cottage next to the ocean, complete with electricity, a fridge, a stove, a bbq, hot water, a wood fireplace and the best outdoor shower we have ever seen.

Gylfi Jón & Paula

The Hut By The Sea

Rock carvings done by a local artist

The area in which Gylfi Jón's hut is located, called Hafurbjarnarstadir, is home to many Icelandic horses roaming and grazing in the fields.

Feeding The Horses

Paula At The Beach

The following day Gylfi Jón, his firend, Baldur and his girlfriend's daughter, Anna ,arrived at the hut to take Paula and I to do some sightseeing in an area along the southwestern shore of Iceland.

Gylfi Jón & Paula in Southwestern Iceland

The Geothermal Area In Reykjanesbær

Shifting Plates

Anna & Paula picked wild berries growing in the area.

While visiting the area, Baldur asked many questions about our travels. Baldur was a journalist for a popular newspaper in Iceland, The DV. After returning to the hut, Baldur conducted a formal, recorded interview, which was rather awkward for Paula and I. Baldur planned to submit a story about us for the following week's paper.

The shower at Gylfi Jón's hut was on the outside of the building. The combination of the hot water, cool breeze and the view of the sunset over the ocean and the Icelandic horses in the fields is why Paula and I have deemed it the greatest shower on Earth.


Grazing Horses

After conducting the interview, Baldur offered Paula and I the use of one of his vehicles. Since we were stranded waiting for the motorcycle, Baldur suggested that we take his car for the day and drive around The Golden Circle to see some of the beautiful nature that Iceland has to offer.

Paula In Iceland

We visited Þingvellir National Park, which is just outside of the capital city of Reykjavík.

Paula At Þingvellir National Park

The Mountains of Iceland

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

We also visited Geysir, an active geothermal area in central Iceland.

Paula At Geysir

The Beauty of Iceland

Paula & I At Gullfoss

After spending a full day of sightseeing, dropped off the car off at Baldur's house. When we arrived, Baldur and his wife, Hulda, cooked us a delicious supper of cod fish with mashed potatoes, traditional Icelandic rye bread, cucumber salad and . Baldur and Hulda lived with their 3-year old son, Emil, in a suburb of Reykjavík.

Paula and I met Gylfi Jón's mother, Guðrún, who offered to wash and dry our dirty laundry. We were very grateful to her since we had run out of clean clothes and Iceland doesn't seem to have any laundromats.

With the hopes of receiving the motorcycle this weekend in Iceland, we said goodbye to Gylf Jón, who will be gone on a fishing trip for the next four days. After he left, Paula and I enjoyed the delicious salmon he brought us. We had it raw, with some soy sause, wasabi and pickled ginger.

Along with the horses, there was also a little bunny that called this beautiful place home.

The Horses of Iceland

On our second Saturday in Iceland, Paula and I walked to the grocery store and picked up the paper to find a two-page article about us.

The Article In The DV


After two weeks of waiting, the motorcycle had finally arrived in Iceland. Paula and I hitchhiked to the airport where we finally received and reassembled the bike.

The Greatest Shower On Earth

Though happy to finally have our motorcycle back, we were saddened to have to leave this magical place that we called home for our first two weeks in Iceland.

We spent our last night in the hut and, the following day, packed up out belongings onto the motorcycle and were on our way.

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

Hello guys!!

Excellent trip photos, as well as details!! It's heart warming to know you just took the plunge and hit the road!... A new and wonderful journey awaits you both!!

If you want help in India, and updates on the road, let me know. Will be more than willing to help anyway I can.

Cheers! And keep the posts coming!

August 20, 2013 - September 3, 2013

We got up early in the morning and packed our belongings. With tears in my eyes I said goodbye to all the horses. Everything was ready to go. Rocky sat on the bike, turned the key...and nothing. The motorcycle wouldn't start. We spent a few hours trying to wiggle wires and charge the battery, but still, nothing. I eventually ran over to the neighbour's home, a few hundred meters away. He had a lot of old vehicles and machinery collected on his yard. I thought that there would be a good chance he would have cables and or even an old battery we could briefly borrow. I didn't want to bother him, but I did. He opened the door, and then slammed it shut. That didn't work out so well. Maybe if he kept his door open more often, the view wouldn't allow him to be so miserable.


I ran to the next closest place, which was a golf course, a few more hundred meters away. The lands keeper was quickly willing to help. We drove out to the hut and attached the cables to the batteries. The motorcycle quickly came to life with a roar. We hopped on her and rode towards the horses on our way out, but that didn't intimidate our long mane friends. They curiously peeked at the odd creature we rode away on, as we waved goodbye, one last time.

It was a beautiful day but we had our winter and rain liners attached to our riding gear. I was also wearing my balaclava to protect my neck and chin from the crisp air. We rode to the library where Rocky and I had spent our first week in Iceland. Angela was behind the counter at the Radhause Kaffi shop, open for business. I was extremely happy to see her glowing with pride.

We were supposed to meet Gylfi Jon there and take him out for lunch. When I asked Angela if she had seen him, she said that she had last seen him in the kitchen eating. I felt horrible for being too late. When Gylfi Jon found us, he joined us at our table. I felt emotional as I tried to come up with the right words. Nothing I could have said would have expressed how much I enjoyed meeting him and staying at the Little Hut by the Sea.

We were officially back on the road and on our own. We planned on spending the day at Iceland's most unique and popular attraction, The Blue Lagoon. In 1976, a geothermal power plant was new to the area. Superheated water was vented from 2000 meters in the ground near a lava flow. It was used to run turbines that generate electricity. After going through the turbines, the steam and hot water would pass through a heat exchanger to provide heat for a municipal water heating system. All of the wastewater outputted from the geothermal power plant formed a pool. In the years that followed, people start bathing in it.

It wasn't long before the natural geothermal seawater became known for its healing power from its active ingredients, minerals, silica and algae. The Blue Lagoon Spa was created soon after. Absolutely breathtaking, the Blue Lagoon is one of the most intensely beautiful places I have ever experienced. It was so perfect, that until I walked around the inside of the lagoon, I had no idea that man had anything to do with its intense natural beauty. It is the most compatible relationship between nature and technology I have ever seen.


Just as we were about to leave, the bike refused to start again. Luckily, we were in a very busy parking lot and finding help came easy. We left Keflavik and rode to Reykjavik. Just as we approached the city, the sun was beginning to drop towards the oceans horizon. The sky was a mixture of light pink and baby blue with wisps of translucent clouds. It was such a pretty sunset that I had to force myself to look away to check out the landscape around me. I turned my head to the right but the sky stole my attention once again. It was a pretty purple and the mountains in the distance were navy blue. But, prettier than colors, was the largest white moon I have ever seen. It dominated the sky like something I have only witness on an Anime cartoon. It is during moments like those, when I wished Rocky and I had communication devices.

Once we were in the city, it began to get late and we decided to camp out in a huge field near the University. The wind blew hard that night and we woke up to a lot of rain the following morning. Packing in the rain is definitely on the list of things I almost hate. We found a nearby Subway restaurant, and we decided to go there for a few hours. Once we were dry, our tummies were full and we googled a few addresses, we stopped at a camping store for some water proofing spray. I had already sprayed the tent while in NYC. I had also glued all the seams and patched all the tears while we were staying at The Little Hut. But, there was still a little bit of water finding its way in through the material we lay on.

We also stopped at a KTM shop for some advice. Rocky wasn't exactly sure why the motorcycle was experiencing troubles, but he suspected that we may need a regulator. Unfortunately, none were in stock and we were told that it could possibly be at least a week for one to be delivered. We didn't want to wait that long. Especially since we weren't positive that it was the regulator causing us bike problems. Instead, we left with some chain lube and cleaner.


We had spent all day in Reykjavik, and then we searched for a place to camp along the coast. The sky threatened more rain, so we hoped to find a place that would provide us with some shelter. Right along the beach was a tiny facility with an overhang that could keep us dry for the night. There was a set of stairs to its side that led to the top of the overhang, giving us a beautiful view of the arctic waves. Sounds perfect? It could have been, if it wasn't a sewage plant. Even the shittiest place in Iceland was awesome. What made me laugh more, were the two employees that showed up for their shift in the morning. They asked us for pictures because they recognized us from the newspaper!

We began our way out of the city and my hopes of the weather getting better were quickly diminishing. It was cold, really cold. Rain was pouring down on us, but worst, was the wind. When we stopped for gas, the attendant warned us that the road ahead was known for very strong winds. I was told that it would get better once we reached the top of the hill but I couldn't help having doubt. The wind was pulling and pushing us all over the road. After driving for about 20 km, we reached the top and I was shocked to see some blue sky and sunshine in the distance. We stopped for a photo and noticed another rider was doing the same. Tam was from Whales he was exploring solo on a KLR. I really enjoyed seeing other riders. Most adventurers we saw were in huge Unimog campers. These things were massive. The wheels were more than half my size, and seeing them made me feel brave.

We continued towards visiting a waterfall and we must have rode past at least half a dozen of them on our way. We spent the rest of the day riding in and out of rain, and fighting the wind. The weather was very temperamental and seemed to change frequently. I felt a strong sense of relief once we entered the Hvalfjörður tunnel. I was so cold that I honestly wouldn't have minded staying in that warm pocket of exhaust fumes. Even though the tunnel is among the longest underwater road tunnels in the world (5,770 m or 18,930 ft. long), we were back into the cold much too soon. All I could do was close my eyes and imagine the heat of the fireplace in the cozy, Little Hut by the Sea. We continued driving for a bit but we finally found a park that we thought would be a good place to camp. We set up the tent under a tree, and finally warmed our hands and feet.


With everything ready and packed to leave in the morning, the motorcycle refused to start, once again. We were becoming very frustrated. I walked up and down streets asking everyone for help but nobody had cables or understood what I was saying. We were in a small town and English wasn't as popular. I found it very difficult to communicate and resorted to inventing my own sign language. I was relieved when it worked and I finally found help.

For the rest of the day, we rode around gawking at the scenery. Iceland is a very mountainous island with a strange landscape. It was so ridiculously beautiful that we were constantly stopping every few minutes to take another picture. I thoroughly enjoyed every stop. Because Iceland is a volcanic island, there are many beautiful lava fields covered in moss and lichen. To my surprise, they were also covered with wild blueberries. Every time Rocky was taking pictures, I was filling us up bags (and my mouth) full of deliciousness.

We eventually arrived in a town called Grundarfjörður and stopped at a gas station for a cup of coffee. We discovered that N1 Gas Stations have free WiFi and good, cheap coffee. We were especially happy when we also found out about unlimited refills. After warming up and relaxing for a while, we tried to come up with a plan for the night. We were continuing to have problems with the motorcycle starting and we were afraid to camp too far from public in case we needed a boost.

Adjacent from the gas station was a small Viking hut. It looked as though it was placed there as a type of attraction or selling booth. I had asked one of the guys working in the store what it was used for and he said it had been recently built for the community and occasionally used by the locals to perform skits and plays. I encouraged Rocky for us to stay there for the night. I thought that, not only would it be a perfect place to keep us dry and warm, but it was also a super awesome Viking hut!!


As I set up the tent, Rocky searched outside of The N1 Gas Station for an electrical plug. He hoped that if he plugged in the battery and let it charge for the night that maybe, just maybe, the bike would start in the morning. As he was looking, he met a lady named Silla. She worked at the grocery store that's attached to the N1. Silla offered to take home the battery and return it charged the next morning. The first thing we did when we woke up was check the electric and cable connections. With the fully charged battery installed, the motorcycle still refused to start. Unsure of what the problem was, we decided that we wouldn't pack up our belongings because we would be staying in Grundarfjörður for one more night. We spent the entire day sitting in the N1 Gas Station as Rocky searched the Internet for any help he could find.

Later that day, Rocky was approached by a guy demanding rent money. His name was Hjortur and he was kidding of course. Along with some help, Hjortur had built the Viking Hut. We apologized for staying there, we didn't realize it was private property. We told him that we were experiencing some bike troubles and we planned on returning to Reykjavik in the morning. Hjortur was very understanding and gave us permission to enjoy another night there. When we asked him for a picture, he said yes but asked as if we minded waiting a few minutes. He returned momentarily, fully dressed in his Viking costume. That made my day. I absolutely adored him for it!

We asked someone for a boost in the morning and rode back towards Reykjavik. It is the only large city in Iceland and we were afraid to continue north and around the rest of the island without figuring out what was wrong with the motorcycle. When Gylfi Jon heard that we were coming back in his direction, he invited us to join him at his home for dinner. I'm not one to turn down a meal, but I was especially excited to see him and Anna again. I was also happy that we were going to have the chance to meet his son Sveinn, and his girlfriend as well. The moment I met Ingibjorg, I immediately noticed the strong resemblance between her and Anna. She is extremely pretty, intelligent and funny. Her and Gylfi Jon make a lovely couple. They also make a fantastic meal, but I wasn't surprised. I already knew that Gylfi Jon was passionate about cooking. It was nice to spend time together with everyone.


After a few hours, it was getting late and we exchanged hugs for one last time. Baldur didn't live far and had mentioned that we could camp out at his place while him and Hulda were visiting the West Fjords. It made it much easier for us to take apart the bike to try and figure out what exactly might be wrong with it. The following day, we purchased some contact cleaner and soldered the electrical connections we had previously repaired. That seemed to have helped because the motorcycle was starting at every attempt. Baldur and Hulda came home that night and brought with them the most blueberries I have ever seen in my life. They said that the West Fjords is the best place to pick them because they are everywhere. We all sat at the table sharing stories and eating many bowls filled with blueberries and cream. No matter what troubles we had faced in Iceland, Gylfi Jon and Baldur were always there for us, bringing smiles to our faces.

The motorcycle started in the morning and we took that as a good sign. Once again, we headed north. Everyone in Iceland says that the weather is very unpredictable because it can change drastically, very quickly. I began to believe that the weather was very predictable - high winds, rain and a chance of sunshine. Repeat. But it really didn't matter, it made the world around us look like as if it was sparkling. All of the colours surrounding us were intensified as the hydrated earth was kissed by the sun. We were even rewarded with a full rainbow as we rode past fields of wild horses. I was mesmerized, absolutely captivated by every kilometer we passed.

It was late and the sun had already gone down by the time we stopped in a town named Dalvik. The groceries stores had all closed and the only place open was a gas station. Luckily we had arrived just before they closed because we were really hungry. The ladies working behind the counter must have assumed that because they were kind enough to keep the kitchen open to serve us. We ordered a large plate of french fries to split between us, but we received a heaping platter. It was literally a platter. Rocky and I couldn't stop giggling. There were enough french fries to feed a party. We tried our best to eat as much as possible but we had to give up at approximately 2000 calories each. With a very full tummy, we slept well that night.


We rode to Akureyri in the morning and stopped to check out Godifoss, another very beautiful waterfall. We then headed to Lake Mývatn where the surrounding landscape was dominated by volcanic landforms. For the first time since arriving in Iceland, there were, what I would consider, many mosquitos. I just found out that they were actually midges. Tiny little fly like bugs that were creepily trying to get at my eyeballs. It was the first time I had noticed insects. I hadn't even seen a single ant during our entire time on the island.

Our plan was to visit another waterfall by the end of the day. Dettifoss is said to be the largest, most powerful waterfall in Europe. We rode down a gravel rode for what seemed like forever and finally arrived at what I considered a eerie-looking place. The area was very grey with many rocks and the water was dark with sediment. It was so powerful that I felt as though the earth was vibrating my entire body. We considered spending the night near by but we decided to camp closer to the main road. It was another long ride on a gravel road. Even once we reached the tarac we rarely saw anyone drive past. We continued riding through the barren land until we had just enough sunlight to set up camp for the night. I truly felt as though we were in the middle of nowhere, but we weren't alone. Sound asleep during the middle of the night, I woke up counting sheep. Bhaa, bhaaa, bhaa. It was the cutest sound I have ever awoken to.

During our ride through the northern regions, we had seen sheep everywhere. They roam around freely in the fields, infusing themselves by eating wild thyme and blueberries all day long. It is no wonder why they are so irresistibly delicious. But how could I ever think of sheep like that ever again? I grew a deep affection for them after realizing how extremely adorable they were. They often wandered their way along the roads but they would quickly panic and flee the moment they heard the motorcycle approach them. It was really funny to see them transform from calm, cool and collected grazers, to frantic, little maniacs, running on their skinny little legs as their chubby butts waddled. I just love them!


We had made our way past northern Iceland and headed towards the town of Egilsstaðir, on the Eastern side of the island. For the next few days, we would stay relevantly close to the area because our ferry was waiting near by. We ventured on a thin gravel road that led us up a mountain of rock and silver moss. The wind frightened me as I starred down the steep edges. We continued riding and eventually found a soccer field to pitch our tent. We set up the tent on a wooden deck that was attached to a sports shed, and I was glad we did. It rained heavily all night and into the morning. Even though I had sprayed some protection on the tent while staying at the Viking hut, I didn't trust how well it would work to keep us dry.

It was my birthday and we planned on visiting one of the coolest places I have ever seen. Located on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park, situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, is a large glacial lake filled with luminous blue chunks of ice that were beautifully streaked with black sediment. 10% of Iceland is covered in glaciers and the are quickly melting. We spent hours starring at the floating, icebergs. A few of them had drifting onto the shore. I didn't care how cold I was, I felt that I had to sit on one. Not many people can say that they've sat on an iceberg for their birthday.

A music video was being filmed a few feet away from us and I felt bad for the artist who was under-dressed and shivering cold. The sky was covered in clouds and I could see snow in the distance atop the glacier. Rocky and I decided it was getting late and much too cold to be hanging out much longer. A few of the locals also approached us as we were preparing to leave and warned us to get out of the weather. Rocky got on the motorcycle and I shouldn't have been so surprised when it wouldn't start. The crew that was filming the video came over to offer their help and they brought us hot cups of coffee from the large trailer they were traveling in. Alfred, Raggi, Villi and Simmi were extremely kind. While Villi showed Rocky how to bypass the start relay with a screwdriver, Alfred, Simmi and Raggi brought me birthday cake and everyone began singing to me. It was very unexpected! It completely warmed my heart and made me feel all fuzzy.


It was already dark and we were trying to ride as far away from the glacier as possible. It was too late to bother finding a room for the night, so we rode east to the town that we stopped in earlier that day, and found a small field to camp in. The next morning was sunny, and we rode back to the town of Egilsstaðir. We decided to have a relaxing day to work on the blog and we camped out in a nearby field, that night. When we woke up in the morning, we planned to visit a Dam, located in the highlands. It was freezing cold and extremely windy. The area was beautiful and desolate but the wind was so ridiculously strong that we were riding on a forty-degree angle. When we finally reached the dam I was worried that Rocky was going to cross it. Imagine dark grey water, thrashing violently. Waves were splashing on the narrow road that separated the raging water from the ridiculous 193 m (633 ft.) drop. I was super scared but Rocky was apparently feeling very adventurous. I was clenching my mouth shut even more than I had that entire ride. It felt as though my teeth were all about to crack. Once we actually made it to the other side, I was relieved to be alive. We stopped for a minute so that I could prevent from peeing in my pants, and then Rocky decided to turned back around. I felt like I was going to have a heart attack. The only comfort I had was in knowing that we were turning around and exiting the highlands.

Half way back to Egilsstaðir, we turned down a gravel rode that led us to a guesthouse. We decided to stop there for a warm drink, and also to relax our cold bones. We met a few other travelers doing the same. They were shocked that we arrived by motorcycle as they complained of the drive they experienced on their trailer homes. My jaw hurt from all the pressure but my tongue was feeling strange. I ran to the bathroom to look in the mirror and I was shocked to see that my tongue was swollen and purple from sucking on it so hard. I was really glad when we finally left the highlands and returned back to the same spot that we had camped the night before.

We had two days left before our ferry was scheduled to leave. We decided to relax all day and work on the blog. We were hanging out at an N1 when we were surprised to see Tam, our friend from Whales. Even though it had only been less than two weeks since we had met him, it felt as though it was so long ago. It was great to hear about Tams journey. He had ridden through Iceland’s interior, where the roads are all gravel and the terrain is difficult to traverse. Sometimes I feel guilty for having joined Rocky on this trip. I know that if he was alone he would love a challenge like that. I don't crave that same excitement while riding passenger.

It was our last night in Iceland and we were camped at the same spot as the past couple of nights. We were sad to be leaving this magical place but Iceland wasn't letting us leave without one last surprise. As I stepped outside of our tent that night, I was awarded with something I had always wished to see, northern lights. The sky was glowing green as it danced above me, and I immediately screamed for Rocky to come outside. It was the first time that either one of us had witnessed such a an astronomical phenomena, it was a real treat. I stared at the sky and took a moment to reminisce all the beauty Iceland possessed. What a fantastic country! It is definitely a place that we will have to visit again in the future.

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

Having problems starting the motorcycle, we flagged down a local and got a boost and were finally back on the road. It was August 20th, the already cool and wet summer was drawing to a close, and we still had much of Iceland so see.


After saying goodbye to our friends in Keflavík, our first stop was the blue Lagoon. "The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland. The spa is located in a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, southwestern Iceland." At roughly CA$110 for two people for the basic package, it was an expensive attraction to see, but it turned out to be well worth the cost.


After spending a few nights camped out in Reykjavík, we decided to visit a popular waterfall in the southwestern part of the country, called Seljalandsfoss. Just outside of the capital city, were ran into an intense rain and wind storm. The winds were so strong that I pulled over at a gas station to decide whether or not to push through it. Not wanting to miss this waterfalls, I opted to continue, and, 20km up the road, the wind eased and the rain stopped. We parked the motorcycle at a rest area with a panoramic view, and met Tam, a fellow motorcycle rider who was from Whales.


The skies cleared up and we rode for two hours into a strong headwind before reaching Seljalandsfoss.


Seljalandsfoss


After visiting Seljalandsfoss, we turned around and rode back towards Reykjavík with the wind at our backs.


There are beautiful waterfalls everywhere you go in Iceland, so many that, eventually, you get use to seeing them and almost tend to take them for granted.


In the morning, we encountered more electrical problems with a bike that refused to start. Paula flagged down some locals for a boost, and we eventually headed north, along the western coast of the country. The day was filled with scattered showers and fog. In the afternoon, Paula and I stopped along the road near a lava field to find wild blueberries growing everywhere. While stuffing our faces, we filled up a few plastic baggies so we would also have something to snack on later.


We stopped several times that day, but, since the morning, the bike didn't have any problems starting.


Later that day, we stopped at gas station in the town of Grundarfjörður for coffee and to warm up. After a few hours, we decided to head out. Once again, the bike refused to start. Since it was late in the afternoon, we decided to find a place to camp so that I could have some time to try to figure things out. Conveniently, right across the street from the gas station, we found this Viking hut to camp in. It was right in the center of town, but it seemed a perfect place to spend the night and keep dry from the rains.


That evening, a gas station employee, named Silla, saw that I had hooked up my battery charger to the exterior gas station electrical outlet that supplied power to the air compressor. Silla, whose husband is a motorcyclist, offered to take our battery home and charge it through the night. Silla brouhgt a fully-charged batter back the next day, but, the bike still refused to start. We spend that day in Grundarfjörður working on the motorcycle and trying to figure out what the problem was.


Later that day, a man arrived at our hut demanding rent money. He was kidding, of course. Hjotur was his name, and the hut we were staying in was his. He was a member of a group that perform Viking re-enactments. I asked him if I could take his picture. He told me to wait a few minutes, then rushed off in his car, only to return ten minutes later wearing full Viking garb, wielding and axe and holding a shield.


Paula and I spent another night at the Viking hut, and, unable to find the source of the starting issue, we decided to get a boost and return to Reykjavik to look for a new motorcycle battery. Upon hearing of our return to the area, Gylfi Jon invited Paula and I over for dinner. Gylfi lives just outside of Reykjavik with his girlfriend, Ingibjörg and her daughter, Anna.


Paula and I spent the following day in Reykjavik, working on the motorcycle. Looking over the wiring diagram for the bike, I found that the wires that melted against the hot exhaust when we were in Canada were involved in the battery-charging circuit. We carefully re-spliced these wires, this time adding solder to the connections. This seemed to do the trick. We were camped in the yard at Baldur's house. Baldur was the journalist who we met through Gylfi Jon when we fist arrived in Iceland. After two nights and a day of working on the bike, Paula and I headed back on our trip around Iceland.


The Sun Setting On Northern Iceland


Full Rainbow


Sunset Over Skagafjörður


Skagafjörður Panorama


Paula Near Skagafjörður

__________________
not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

That night, we camped in the town of Dalvik in northern Iceland, and the following day we visited Goðafoss.


After leaving Goðafoss, we rode east to Lake Mývatn, and then north.


Near Lake Mývatn


Asbyrgi Canyon


Late in the day, we rode for almost an hour down a gravel road to the eastern shore of Dettifoss.


Dettifoss is the waterfalls featured in the opening scene of the movie, Prometheus.


Dettifoss


Paula At Dettifoss


After leaving Dettifoss, we traveled another hour down the gravel road to the main road. Witht he sun setting and nowhere near a town, we decided to stop at the side of the road and camp for the night. During the night, Paula heard sheep roaming and grazing just outside of our tent.


In the middle of nowhere


We packed up our camp and rode to the eastern part of the country.


Paula In Eastern Iceland


Later that day, we took the mountain pass from Egilsstadir that leads to the southern part of Iceland. We stopped along the way to pick more wild blueberries, and discovered a beautiful waterfall.


Riding Over The Mountain Pass


The winds in Iceland were some of the strongest winds we had ever ridden in.


Befufjörður Mountain Pass


The following day, we rode along the southern coast of Iceland, battling extreme winds. We were in the area near Iceland's largest glacier.


Riding Towards The Glacier Lagoon


Near the end of a long day, we arrived at The Glacier Lagoon.


It was Paula's birthday, and we thought that being in this place wasn't a bad way to spend a birthday. Leaving The Glacier Lagoon, the bike, again, refused to start. This time, it was different. When I pushed the start button, the engine didn't turn over at all. I suspected a problem with the start relay. The was a film crew nearby shooting a Japanese music video. Seeing that I was working on the motorcycle, a few crew members came over to help. After hearing that it was Paula's birthday, we were invited into their trailer. Paula was given a cup-cake with a candle, and everyone sang her happy birthday.


In the end, we found that the motorcycle's start relay was dead. We had to start the bike using a screwdriver to jump the start relay and apply battery voltage directly to the starter motor.


Since we no longer had a motorcycle that could be properly started, Paula and I decided to head back to the eastern part of Iceland. We were scheduled to sail from Seyðisfjörður in four days, and we thought that it would be a good idea to rest for a few days, and do as little riding as possible until we could replace the start relay, which we would have to do when we arrived in Germany.


Riding Back Over The Pass


Paula and I spent the days before sailing from Iceland camped outside of a gas station, behind some bushes in Egilsstaðir. While there, we were surprised by Tam, whom we had met ten days earlier. Tam had recognized out motorcycle parked outside of the gas station and stopped to say hello.


On our last night in Iceland, we were surprised and amazed by the show the northern lights put on for us. The following day, we packed up our belongings and rode to Seyðisfjörður, where we would board the ferry to Denmark.

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

September 4, 2013 - September 14, 2013

It was a short, beautiful ride, to the small town of Seyðisfjörður, in Eastern Iceland. We had booked a one-way trip on Norröna, a Smyril Line Ferry traveling to Hirtshals, in Denmark. I wasn't looking forward to the voyage. The only thing that excited me was that we would be making a stop at the Faroe Islands.

It takes three nights and four days to reach Denmark from Iceland. Since I am very susceptible to motion sickness, I was terrified. The thought of being trapped on a boat, while traveling through the vast Arctic Ocean, feeling dizzy and nauseous for that long gave me anxiety. I usually make an effort to avoid taking medications, but there was no way that I was about to even consider that option. I took a pill as soon as I was supposed to, and continued doing so every 12 hours. For the next few days I would feel heavily medicated. My ears would feel slightly plugged and I would be very sleepy.

All sorts of vehicles were waiting to get on board. After parking the motorcycle, and securely strapping her in, we grabbed our bags and began to squeeze our way out of the parking area. After going down a few floors, the air felt damp and limited. It also reeked of chlorine. When we found our room, I was glad that we were the first to arrive. Six beds were cramped together in 10ft. x 10ft. area. After some thought, we took dibs on two of the top bunks. They didn't feel as enclosed. I was a bit more relieved once I found out that we were sharing the room with only three others. We would have a bit more air to breathe.


After a short tour around the ferry, I felt exhausted, and my brain welcomed the shut down. Our beds were nothing but a thin plastic mat on a steel shelf. Luckily, we had a blanket with us, as well as our sleeping bag. Otherwise we would have had to share a bed to keep warm. It wasn't what most people would consider comfortable, but I fell into a deep sleep, quickly. A few hours later I awoke to a loud, deep snore. I tossed, turned and struggling to stay asleep. The repetitive snorts and groans tortured me until I envisioned slightly extending my foot to kick the stranger into silence. Instead, I used my energy to find a pair of earplugs, buried deep inside my purse. The ocean must've been rough because I felt us sway back and forth. Luckily, the medication worked its magic and I was rocked back to a deep sleep.

The following day took some effort to adjust. We were given a free meal at lunchtime but I found it difficult to eat as the ferry tilted from side to side. I was surprised that I managed to keep all of my food down. We spent the day wandering around the ferry and watching stuff on the computer. Even though I slept at least 12 hours the night before, I could've slept all day. A coffee would have helped to wake me up a little but a tiny cup was being sold for 16 Danish Krone, which converts to approximately $3.25 Canadian dollars. I shouldn't have been surprised. Everything was expensive on the ferry.

We had another early night, and once again I woke up to loud snoring. I should've known to put my earplugs in earlier, but I'm not accustomed to dealing with that sort of situation. Thank goodness Rocky isn't a snorer! I don't like any noises disrupting my sleep, but snoring doesn't just wake me up, it awakens an insanity inside of me.


The ocean was much calmer that night and continued to be so in the morning. Breakfast was much easier to swallow. It was early afternoon when the ferry came to a stop at the Faroe Islands. We docked in the Capital, Tórshavn, on one of the larger Islands, named Streymoy. Since the ferry wouldn't be departing for five hours, Rocky and I went exploring. We were immediately greeted with a colourful display of architecture. Many of the houses were painted in red, black, blue, yellow, and some of them had turf roofs. The Faroe Islands are known to be one of the cloudiest places on earth, but the sun decided to shine bright that day. We walked the streets past many boutiques and overpriced shops in searched of a coffee shop. It was very disappointing to find out that the coffee was much cheaper on the ferry.

When we got back on the ferry, we found a few friends outside on the deck. We joined them under the overhang, and enjoyed the fresh air. I didn't drink because I was heavily medicated and to scared to puke. But, everyone else passed around a couple of bottles. After a late night, we woke up early in the morning, excited to arrive in mainland Europe. Getting off the Ferry was a nightmare. All of the vehicles were packed together like sardines in a can. It was nearly impossible to squeeze through with our bags. There were times when I had to lift my bags over my head or kick them under hitches. I did the limbo under mirrors and maneuvered around as if I were in a maze. If that wasn't tough enough, a bunch of morons who had already found their vehicles, were waiting inside of them with their motors running. It shocked me that so many people could possibly think it's ok to have their exhaust poisoning the air inside of a tightly confined ferry. By the time we had finally found the motorcycle we were sweaty, tired and lightheaded. We still had to load everything on and change into our gear.

Getting off of that ferry was a complete relief. I was worried that we would still have to cross some sort of customs, but borders are invisible between European countries. I had arranged for us to stay with a guy named Bo, from Couchsurfing. He lived with a woman named Tove, her husband Jens, their niece Rebecca, and Bessie, a sweet black Labrador. Unfortunately, we didn't get to meet Jens, he was traveling for work at the moment.

When we arrived at the beautiful countryside home, in the town of Selling, near Århus, Tove welcomed us inside. We weren't the only foreigners visiting. Mayuko was a girl who had traveled in from Japan. She was hilariously adorable. We arrived in perfect timing. Bo had hot tea and baked treats prepared, the moment we arrived. Everybody was really nice and very welcoming. After we were given a tour of the property, we rode down the street to pick up some vegetables from the local farm. Bo and Tove prepared a huge delicious meal and we were introduced to Rebecca and her friend Frederikke. A Danish dish named Frikadeller, accompanied by a few different vegetables, was made for us. It was fried ground meat in the shape of a thick hamburger patty, but it tastes a bit different. Dinner was delicious.

After eating, Rebecca and Frederikke invited us to a street party, in the city of Århus. We gladly accepted the invitation. Tove dropped us off in the city and our first mission was finding a convenience store. Rebecca and Frederikke wanted to pick up a bottle of rum and pop. They said that we could drink as we wander. Really?! In Canada, it is only legal to purchase liquor or in stores that only sell liquor or . And, drinking it outside in public without the confines of some sort of barrier isn't legal either. I was really enjoying the freedom of walking through the crowd, enjoying a stiff drink, and checking out the sites.


Århus is a very pretty city, built around a wide river that was once a port. We found ourselves a place to sit, along cemented steps that faced the water. The area was lined with bars and cafés. There were people everywhere, either sitting in a patio, or by the river. They even had big, clear, plastic bubbles that float in the water. People would pay to go inside the bubbles to roll, jump around in, or try to crash into each other with. It looked like a lot of fun. The entire area was a fun place to be, and I imagine it would be a great place to spend an evening even if there was no street festival.

The following day was nice and sunny. Rocky and I walked with Bessie around the property. The country home was located on a great piece of land, beside a stream. We followed the water until we reached an open field with horses. These three gorgeous creatures were massive. I don't believe I have ever seen horses that tall in my life. Bessie got frightened and ran back home while Rocky and I attempted to feed them some grass. I have to admit, I was a bit intimidated. I felt like I was a small insect as they surrounded me.

Before evening, Rocky and I picked up some groceries and prepared a meal to share with our Danish friends. We spent our last evening in Denmark, indoors, sharing stories, photos, and chunks of chocolate. Staying with Bo, Tove and Rebecca was a perfect introduction to the hospitality in mainland Europe. We all exchanged our goodbyes that night, because we wouldn't get the chance to see anybody in the morning. After a comfortable night sleep, Rocky and I packed up motorcycle and rode out in the rain.

Our next destination was in northwestern Germany! We were on our way to a town called Hude, in the state of Lower Saxony. Since it was a far ride, it was a perfect excuse to use the A1 Autobahn.

Germany's Autobahns are more than 12,000 km's of road that are famously known in the world for having no speed limits. Cars were flying past us at speeds exceeding 180 kmh. At one point during our ride, a car drove past us so fast that the wind pressure it created against my body gave me a good shake and quickly woke me up. Yup, I must've fallen asleep on the back of the bike. I don't understand how it is possible, but it wasn't the first time that I caught myself sleeping while riding. What the heck?! That's so dangerous.


We finally showed up in Hude, a peaceful town of gorgeous farmland. I had arranged for us to stay with a man named Paul and he greeted us at his door with the best introduction ever! Paul wasn't sure at an exact time we'd be arriving. He had just applied a thick mask of clay on his face just before we rang his doorbell. I was confused at first glance and wasn't sure what I was seeing. I didn't want to rudely stare at what I thought might have been a skin condition. My curiosity was finally satisfied when he giggled with embarrassment and told me he had just applied the mud to his face.

Paul was a very interesting character. His home was filled with fragrant scents and much laughter. He was silly, kind and very laid back. We spent the following morning with him, picking up some groceries. The cost of food is incredibly cheap in Germany. Later that afternoon, Rocky and I drove out to a KTM dealership, located in Bremen city. Paul offered us his car so that we didn't have to ride in the rain. Rocky had ordered a couple of parts for the bike, to try and fix the problem we had been facing throughout Iceland. We needed a start relay and we were also picking up a clamp for the right side mirror. We had gone without a mirror since it broke off when we were in Canada.

When we arrived back at Paul's house, he prepared us an authentic German dish. I have always thought Schnitzel was delicious, but it seemed to taste better in Germany. A piece of boneless meat is thinned with a meat tenderizer, coated with flour, salt, pepper, beaten eggs and bread crumbs, it is then fried. If you've never tried it, I suggest you do. It is a quick, simple but tasty way to prepare a meat dish.

We had planned on leaving the next morning but the weather was cloudy and rainy. Paul invited us to stay another night. Rocky and I fixed the motorcycle and once we were done, Paul drove us to the grocery store for another good meal at a great price. Staying with Paul was great. We spent our last night hanging out in his living room, listening to music and taking turns playing different instruments.

Early the next morning, the weather was perfect, and we prepared to leave Hude. We rode through the flat German land, past many dairy farms and fields of sunflowers. We eventually stopped at the edge of a huge parking lot and decided it was a good spot to sleep for the night. We rode past many small towns the next morning, and we took a ferry to cross the Elbe River. The Rathen Ferry is a small passenger/vehicle cable ferry. It was a very short ride but we both found it interesting to ride on a ferry that is propelled by the current of the water. The ferry is attached to a floating cable, which is anchored firmly in the riverbed upstream. The ferry is then positioned into the current, causing the force of the current to swing the ferry across the river on the cable.

It was a very pretty drive towards Dresden, Germany. When we arrived in the city, we searched for free WiFi but failed miserably. We spent the entire day riding through heavy traffic, unable to park near any place that may offer an Internet connection. We eventually discovered that because of certain laws in Germany, it is nearly impossible to find an open connection. German law holds the operator of a public hotspot liable for everything its users do online. Even once we found a McDonalds, free internet is given only if you have a serviced telephone. You must provide your phone number in order to receive a text message that contains a code. My service was disconnected after leaving Canada. We rely heavily on the Internet, as most travelers do. It is used to keep us in contact with friends/family, we use it to post/write the blog, and we send out Couchsurfing requests and or respond to messages. It was a huge inconvenience that made Germany an annoying country to travel through.


Too late to do any site seeing, we rode out of the city of Dresden. We bought dinner at a grocery store and noticed that the outskirts of the parking lot offered a beautiful view. We decide to camp at the far corner of the lot, where we could stare past a cornfield and see the city in the distance. Later in the night, we discovered it was a popular place to hang out, as many locals parked nearby.

We were about to cross into Czech Republic and I felt like we were rushing. Had the Internet been accessible, I think we would have stayed in Germany much longer. There were many things I liked about the country. It seemed to be very well structured, organized, engineered and controlled. I couldn't help but notice a resemblance between Germany and Rocky. I think that Germans might even love adventure as much as him. People (men) were very enthusiastic about our travels. We were constantly given the thumbs up by other motorists. Every time we stopped at a grocery store, Rocky would go inside and I would keep an eye on the motorcycle. The attention that it received was constant. Most men would start examining the bike from afar. They'd check out its heavy load, and then peek at the license plate. By the time they got around to noticing me standing near by, every one of them looked intensely confused. Most used different sounds or gestures to question my ability to handle such a large bike and heavy load. I tried my best to let them know I wasn't alone. It always made me chuckle.

In the morning we packed up and parked out front of the grocery store. A few patio tables were set up beside a BBQ truck and we decided to grab a bite before getting on the road. I approached the man behind the counter and after discovering he didn't speak English, I used gestures to ask for permission to see what was under the container lids. Since I didn't know what the German names signified, I figured it was easier to visually see what was being offered, and point to my choice of options. That didn't work out to well. He responded by rudely raising his voice while reading the menu list at me. The German language already sounds harsh, but to be yelled at in German, is super scary. Instead, we opted to eat grocery food that morning. Although I really liked Germany, I was glad to be leaving the country that day.





Leaving Iceland

Docked At The Faroe Islands

Arriving In The Faroe Islands

Tórshavn

The Faroe Islands

Lighthouse

Paula In The Faroe Islands

Dinner With Friends

Street Party In Denmark

Danish Horse

Rebecca, Tove, Paula & Bo

Grocery Shopping With Paul

Paula & Paul In Hude

Camped In Dresden

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not all those who wander are lost | two earthlings ride around the world

Hi
When will you be in Spain?