ANGOLA- CERVEJA OBRIGADO!

You only have to know these two words to have locals crack a broad smile and even hard ass police officials won’t be able to keep a straight face. Beer and Thank You are the Portuguese words you need to know when visiting Angola.


MILE MARKER



The last time I visited Angola was with Metaljockey more an off road ride, this time round it is to show Elsebie, Harold and Linda this wonderful country and to try and mix it up with some of the locals. Angola and it's people really have a way of creeping into your heart.

After years of war and unrest these people want to go on with their life's and make something for themselves.





ROAD SIDE BEER STOP

But Angola is a fickle mistress! This time she gave me a hard time coming close. Let me give you the absurd before I get to the good stuff. We were supposed to enter Angola at Ruacana border post but the more we talked to the locals at Ruacana that used the route to Cahama, the more we were advised to stay away and use the main border.
It’s the rainy season and the roads are so bad that we won’t be able to get to Cahama in a day. Despondent, we decided to crossed at Oshikango, the only major border between Angola and Namibia. Major bloody mistake!!!!!!

We gave the Angola embassy in SA the “Letters of invitation “Jose our friend in Angola sends to us for the issue of the visa. Now these numb skulls at the border wanted a copy of it! How in hell must we get them now!? They only issue the visa on having this letter, why does this numbskull now also want to see it while he sit with the visa in his hands?


MANY RUSTED UP WAR RELICS NEXT TO THE ROAD.

We tried to explain but the officials, who could quote from their system the name of the person who issued our invitation, but still they would have none of us. In the end a local fixer sitting behind us under the tree said he will go fetch the fax on the Namibian side at the local bank. Thanks to Moses, who helped us the rest of the way, his fee of about US$40 and 6 hours later we entered Angola!

The border officials also did not know what a Carne-de-passage is, nor an International driver’s license and topped it off by telling Linda not to sit on a bench that is under the tree as it is only for officials!

This fickle mistress Angola had my blood pressure at boiling point and it was also bloody 40C outside. Angola is not a tourist friendly country. The bureaucracy is mind boggling and the communism shows through now and then. Sounds stupid but that is why we are drawn to these countries, a lot less rules and still not besiege by tourist, you get to taste the local flavour of the country. It is damn expensive to stay in lodges or hotels and restaurants are equally expensive, at least and petrol are cheaper than in SA.


click on the picture for a bigger size






Our destination was Lubango the place of Jose the man that fought against us South Africans in the border war in the 80's and the man that entertained us 3 years ago on our Foz du Cunene trip. We were greeted by Jose at his restaurant (under renovations currently) with a huge smile although he only placed me about two days later due to the long hair. We were planning a trip to Namibe for a stay over, instead Jose would have none of that.

He escorted us to Namibe for a day trip and that evening arranged a braai and entertainment by the old band that performed for us on our previous trip. Josef the Louis Armstrong look-a-like wood saw artist.


THE TRUCK IS NOT PHOTOSHOP INTO THE PICTURE, LINDA AND HAROLD IS BUSY PASSING HIM. WHICH WAS THE MAIN ROAD IS NOW UN DRIVE-ABLE BY CARS AND TRUCKS THEY REVERT TO DRIVING NEXT TO THE ROAD.


I HELPED THIS MAN, HE ASKED ME TO BORROW HIM A JACK, YE, FOR SURE WE CARRY CAR JACKS WITH US ON BIKES! PLUGGED AND PUMPED HIS TYRE WITH SOME WORMS HE HAD 4 DIFFERENT HOLES AROUND THE TYRE, PUMPED IT AND HE WAS ON HIS WAY. MILES FROM ANYTHING WITH NO MEANS OF CHANGING A TYRE? JUST INSANE.


IF YOU DRIVE AROUND WITHOUT A SPARE AND A JACK THEN AT LEAST MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE MAN UP THERE FOR HELP.


FRIENDLY FACES




PLAY IT AGAIN SAM

The generosity, warmth and friendliness of these Angolans know no bounds. We felt it everywhere we went. People do not look miserable and unhappy in fact they look quite content with their lives in this recovering country. Adults and kids wave to us, no stone throwing or outstretched hands– begging, so unlike the Himba's in Namibia and Lesotho kids. Maybe that is the trade mark of a tourist country versus a non-tourist country. They jump up and down with excitement when we wave back or stop for some photos.


BEER STOP


WE GOT TOLD LOVERS LIKE TO DEFACE BAOBAB TREES WITH THE GRAFFITI.


PIKIPIKI'S (small motorcycle) ROAD SIDE REPAIRS. SKILL FULL PEOPLE THIS, NOTHING IS A PROBLEM.


COLOURFUL HOUSES


MORNING COFFEE AT JOSE'S PLACE WE STAYED IN LUBANGO.

Angola also features jaw-drop beautiful landscapes and now in summer it’s even more so. You can go from tropical to desert in 170km and the sea water temperature at Namibe is close to 25 degrees. I understand why so many people immigrate to this country even though it’s is hell hard to do business in Angola, even the locals have a saying “nothing in Angola is easy”.

Jose, our host since our first time in Angola was very persistent the day before.We had to do a separate trip to Namibe with the bikes. Obviously we were not in the mood to ride the 300km round trip to Namibe in two days. One thing that was a bit of a refresher on this suggestion were that we were going to be able spend some time at the famous Leba pass.

We left our luggage at the house and set off with Jose and his wife on his Varadero. There's quite a bike following in Lubango and they often have races in Lubango.

We set off with Jose in the lead first stop Leba pass. I can not say why I like Leba pass so much. Maybe it is because it goes back to army time, I don't know, maybe the mystery around it from that time. It's such a great feeling standing on the opposite side of the pass taking in the jaw drop beauty of the place.

Second time this Dakar get the pleasure of riding Leba


View from the top of Leba pass with the road meandering down to Namibe in the distance

At the bottom of Leba pass there's a row of small stall selling food stuff. The lot sell the same stuff, at the same price. Jose spoiled us with his favourite, chicken stomachs and hearts, a bit on the tough side but very tasty.




Local Pikipiki's

We left to meet up with Jose's friends in Namibe at the beach front. It's a happening spot with Portuguese elders sitting around sea facing restaurants drinking espresso and grappa the entire Sunday. We met a fisherman that's been in Namibe for 20 odd years and owns the only Harley in the town. It's well looked after bike and it's evident the man loves his Harley more than his kids.
The food at these cafe's are the best, fish and chips or local lobster.


Yes it's dead Harry!


The reason we came to Angola was for my wife to also experience some of the fun we had on this trip. Angola, it's not like they said And here we were treated to the same hospitality we had from the guys at our previous trip.
That evening it was party time at Jose's place with all his friends and their band that got together to play for us. It went on till 3 that morning. The band played anything from Abba to Creedence Clearwater. These people know how to party properly. Their warm hearted friendship was unbelievable we were treated as if we were part of the family for years.




We meet again after 3 years

The next day it was back to Namibe to Jose's beach house. The road took us about 20km North of Namibe. We had to turn off well before the town onto a real shit road. It's a desert waste land and gave the idea of a small Fish river canyon. Unbelievably beautiful vistas.
The riding in the desert was mind blowing, well for me, Linda struggled a bit but took it well and kept her head high. It was difficult for her in the sand but this woman's heart is in the right place for riding. *
The tracks run all over the place, and then come together again in a sand track just to split off again into several directions.



Fooling around in the desert.






Linda had a bit of a hard time, but she came out head high!


Jose's beach house....eeerrmm, shack more that you can call a house.

Bias dos Pipas, Namibe is where the beach party will be. It’s a colourful small little community that resembles Hentie’s Bay (no shops though). Funny the water is hot but it is next to a desert, I always thought warm coastal water ensures a tropical landscape.

We spend the day with Jose and his family, they are a lively active bunch. Jose and his family left at about 8pm for Lubango but we stayed behind to enjoy a night on the beach. How many places can you still park your bike on the beach and sleep there without a worry in the world. This place is a paradise, in fact, worth dealing with some of the bureaucratic nonsense, this country offers maybe even more free living than South Africa.
You can trust on Angola to get some tough chicken and we were not disappointed the chicken were tough but tasty, the chips as always good.


We went on till late that night finishing off the Carlsberg's they left us. Sorting out Africa's problems is hard work.



The morning after!




We met up with Agusto in Namibe the next day, he is a friend of Jose and a 40year old fisherman who owns fishing boats with his dad and to our surprise rides a Harley he bought into Angola with him 20 years ago. He was waiting for 4 of his friends from Portugal. They shipped their bikes from Portugal to Mozambique and then rode all the way to Angola and will be shipping the bikes back to Portugal again. They were apparently inspired by our previous trip report written by Metaljockey (Erik) One of them has never ridden a bike and not to miss out on this epic expedition decided to try it on a quad.





Agusto invited us to his parents’ house for a local fish braai. This is the strangest darn thing, and maybe it’s because dual purpose riders are sort of cut from the same cloth. Yes, yes it’s a generalisation but to date all these bike riders we have come to meet have become friends of Elsebie and me. These guys felt like my friends from school I have seen 20 years ago, not as complete strangers that only met 30 mins ago.








Having lunch at Agusto's parents place.


Our new friends!

I love this and I know I will see them again in the near future even if we have to fly to Portugal or them to SA. This is what it is all about, meeting people making friends and seeing new places……….life is great!


Spoiling ourselves with a night in a banda on the beach.


Heavily protected missile site in Namibe *:imaposer:


Zooom in
On the outskirts of Namibe and barely 1km out of town we saw these missiles pointing south towards SA, as per urban legend. The local story is some of the missiles are pointing towards the USA and others to SA but for some reason I doubt when they hit the button these missiles will go further than the town’s municipal border.

This is even more bizarre than the Custom procedures. I rode up to the gate where the officials sat and asked whether it is possible for me to take pictures of the awesome fire power………noa, NOA!! No,no, they said.

Back into Namibia from Angola we headed along the border towards the Caprivi strip. Harold and Linda decided to ride back from Oshakati via Tsumeb and then Rundu. For Elsebie and myself sitting on tar that much after all the stunning dirt roads we have done it was pure torture.




Sun down in the Caprivi after the rainsi

We headed East towards Rundu and would meet up with Harold and Linda near Pupa falls. The diversity in Namibia is mind blowing, there's deserts, grass lands, Damaraland and the Caprivi which offers some off the most beautiful sunsets and abundant wild life you can imagine.




SOME MEAN ASS FLIES ROAMING AROUND THE CAPRIVI



Life is great especially wen it is raining in the Caprivi


Tracks4Africa listed some community camp sites which were all empty. We stayed at one just before entering the Caprivi strip. Cost us about nothing, was safe and had a cold shower and clean toilet. Camping at these places always offers that bit more and is a bit more special to stay over with them. Most of the times you can have a good chat to the locals and sit and enjoy a with them. They just love to talk to these funny travelers.

The old Pupa falls campsite is now a run down dump. Luckily next to them other private lodges with really cool campsites have open up and offer cold s and even a workshop to work on a BMW. Pity these lodges got such difficult names, Tuna Mutambura lodge.






Camping in Namibia the best in the world!

We spend two night there relaxing, and I had to fix the Dakar's steering head bearings for the first time. The lodge owner was really helpful and gave me space behind his workshop and some tools too fix the bearings.
For the rest it's easy to find peace here, sitting on the deck for hours watching the hippo's drift past and see how the sun die slowly over the horizon in a deep red glow.





The last night there we over indulged on the wine a bit, luckily our new destination was only 300km away at Mazambala island lodge. We raced there, it was damn hot and the thought of more s and relaxation next to a river and a pool was just what was needed.




We had to pack in the luxury camping while we can, from Zambia going up, camping and nice to haves will be a thing of the past.

This is one stunning lodge, you camp next to the river and the lodge is on a island. They use boats to ferry people to and fro. We were lucky it was out of season as we had the campsite to our selves.

Super long water flower thingamajick


This feels the same as the Everglades in Florida






Time was running out for Namibia, Zambia was next.

Murphy you bloody basted! PART1

They say when things go too well, Murphy will end it soon enough. Much did we know that when entering Zambia from Katimo Mulilo Namibia border post.




ZAMBIA BORDER POST

It's a small border post and things went quick on the Namibian side. However the Zambian side was a laugh a minute. Chaos and run down dirty buildings with hordes of people standing around. Everything paid we were out of pocket around 100USD for all the stupid taxes the Zambian charge. The one tax was payable in a old caravan wreck that had no seats and only a box and table for the man to write down the stuff.

Then if that was not bad enough, his stamp was warn down and the ink pad was dry, eventually I made him lick the stamp to get something visible on his tax paper.


FAWLTY TOWERS BACKPACKERS IS THE ONLY PLACE TO STAY IN LIVINGSTON.


We ended up at Faulty Towers backpackers in Livingston the small town close to the famous Victoria water falls, a vibrant hip happening spot. Across the road from Faulty Towers in the main road on the way to the falls is a restaurant The Spot.


The owners are a South African born woman and a Zambian woman, they make the best Piri-Piri chicken in Africa and at very reasonable prices. They will also make you any local dishes if arranged before the time. They really are a friendly bunch of people.


FOOD IS EVERYWHERE AND CHEAP


IMPORTANT THINGS FIRST

The idea was to head for Kariba Lake and take the dirt roads that run along the lake up to Siavonga. We knew they had plenty of rain but thought we would go that way and if stuck just turn around and take the tar road up to Lusaka. *None of the Livingston folk could give us any indication what the roads along this stretch were like.

Livingston is a best experienced for two or more days. It's a small happening town with friendly folke and a busy town centre. Famous name hard liquor cost on average 30% cheaper than is SA. Obviously we stock up on Johnny Walker Black and other expensive stuff we normally don't indulge in when in SA.
There's quite a few private game reserves around Livingston that offer camping for cheap.

When at the falls on the Zambia side you can ask the customs police at the bridge to walk over to the Zimbabwe side to get a look over the falls from that side.




FAMOUS VICOTRIA FALLS

Harold and Linda did not feel up to dirt at that stage and set off for Siavonga via the main road, we would meet up again in a day or two. *As we rounded a bend on our way to Kariba Lake near a small town called Sinazeze, Elsebie’s bike suddenly became a low rider. *The top shock bolt sheared off and the shock moved out of its bracket and, well ………………… the top part of the shock broke off dropping all the oil on the tarmac.


SHIT HAPPENS SHOCK TOP BOLT SHEARED OFF.

As we were standing there still trying to make plans how to get the bike to Lusaka or Livingstone an ex South African farmer pulled up next to us offering some help. He farms for Zambeef close to where we got stranded.

He immediately phoned his workshop manager, Servaas, to come and collect the bike and take it to their workshops. From there their farm compound was 12KM further located next to the lake. We could stay there and try figure out how to get the bike going again.




RELAXING NEXT TO KARIBA

The entire compound consisted of ex South Africans working for Zambeef, according to them, Zambia is South Africa 20 years ago with regards to ease of living. Everybody is safe and crime is virtually zero. A beautiful spot with very generous people.
That evening we were invited to a braai with the farmers, that turned into a party that lasted well into the early hours of the morning.

They say booze don't solve your problems, it sure as hell helped with the shit feeling I was sitting with. The entire night I was mulling it over how to get this bike out of there and the bloody time it is going to set us back with. The only thing I could do was to get the shock out the next morning and see if there's any thing I can do to get us out of the place.


WE LOVED EATING AT THESE FOOD STALLS, CHEAP AND TASTY

The biggest problem was the farm is so remote, it's nearly 400km back to Livingston and 450km to Lusaka. The previous day when we offloaded the bike the spring unhook and the bike stood as if everything was okay.
We decided to pack up greed the friendly farmers and try and ride the bike as is to Lusaka. As long as the spring work we will be fine. At this stage I still did not know what exactly broke.

Elsebie insisted on riding her own bike and like on a pogo stick unceremoniously hopped her way as we road on to Lusaka.

FIXING THE DAKAR'S SHOCK

I got hold of Kurt our friend in South Africa and he was able to get us a new (2nd hand) shock flown into Lusaka within the next few days. We ended up in Lusaka at Chachacha backpackers.

As we rode into the grounds Neill aka Jenson Button was sitting on the floor with a despondent look on his face motorcycle tube in one hand and a knife in the other contemplating cutting it up as a liner for his front tyre. Nice surprise to see him and the XT made it so far. **** it mate, lets drink and then I will help you sort it out.


CHRISTMAS CAMPING AT CHA CHA BACKPACKERS IN LUSAKA

There’s not much to be said about Lusaka it’s a big busy African city. The big South African companies are all represented there together with China taking over with big gusto.

MALAWI'S "NEVER LEAVE DISEASE CALLED BONGI FEVER" part1







In short, Malawi turned out to be this warm exotic paradise people told us about. Golden sandy beaches with clean water, super friendly people, cheap and food, and the best snorkelling. It's easy to understand why so many people get such a serious infection of Bongi fever. The local term when referring to over landers or travellers that get stuck in Malawi and just never leave.




FAT MONKEYS, MONKEY BAY

Lake Malawi is not your average dirty smelly dam, the water is crystal clear, it's clean and the most beautiful coloured tropical fish swim around the rocks in the shallow water. Why Lake Malawi is this way I don't know. It's not a typical lake *as with Kariba for example.



It's a small country with not much industry other than tourism, and some tobacco exports. Their money is not worth much and you look like a drug dealing gangster with all the cash you have to draw at ATM's. Driving around Malawi is slow as most people live next to the road nothing more than 80 is about the max for safe driving.


DRYING RACKS FOR KAPENTA FISH


DUGOUTS, BOAT CAN LAST FOR AROUND 10 YEARS.



The land is cultivated and worked by old people the hard way. For the rest it's a dirt poor place. South Africans have made this a popular holiday destination and some locals can utter a few funny sounding Afrikaans words.




ANY TOY WILL DO


THEY ARE WORKING COPIES, THE DETAIL IS AWESOME. ROAD SIDE SHOP IS CALLED TOYS'R'US

As we drove into Fat Monkeys in Monkey Bay Cape Mclear, Plottie as appointed head of the local welcoming committee promptly shoved some s into our hands as we climbed out of the Kombi. Elsebie rode her bike from Zambia as the Kombi could only take the one Dakar. Unceremoniously we parked the broken Dakar under the Mango tree to be fix after the new year and we wasted no time setting up camp. Linda and Harold have decided to stay over in Lilongwe for a few days before meeting up with us again.




DRUG DEALER AMOUNT OF PAPER ONLY PAID FOR FEW BURGERS

There is no other place near the Southern side of Malawi with the same island style feeling. Loads of young people from all over the world frolic around on the beach with golden brown tanned bodies. It's hot and humid, even at night it's hot and the mosquito's are the kind that can drag a small kid out of it's bed by the legs.


FAT MONKEYS BAR, GIN AND TONIC'S AND BEERS, FOR THE REST READ THE DAYS AWAY.

The water is a comfortable 25"degrees and perfect for sitting around at the shore with friends consuming copious amounts of s. The clean water had the kids spend their days in the lake. It's a very cheap holiday, camping cost around R50 per stand per day. Breakfast at the lodge cost around R80 for two people. Beers go for R8 and soft drink cost cheaper. *


SHA NANA
The first thing the next day was to go swim at a secluded beach not far from the lodge. The boat's name is Sha nana and it's skipper is Jumbo, a super friendly chap with a huge white smile. The man and his crew got this cool laid back attitude to them. Noooothing is a problem.







Just after Christmas many of the South Africans that holidayed their left to spend New Year in South Africa. The next day the camp was empty and only Metaljokey and family stayed over to enjoy the New Years party. Around the same time two bikers riding from the UK to CP arrived.


HAROLD AND LINDA TRYING TO GET RID OF BONGI FEWER WITH WATER MEDITATION THERAPY

It's really great meeting up with people doing the same kind of trips, exchange ideas, news, places to stay and avoid. We still had the difficult part in front of us and they are on the holiday side of things going down to SA.




*SUN DOWNERS AND SUNSETS *

Ted also came down the East Coast and also quit his job to do this trip. He did South America and Europe before trying Africa. He insisted a DRZ is the bike to do this trip and it is still going strong. Some of us disagree but with the Dakar breaking all over the show we can’t argue. All with soft luggage.


TED AND HIS DRZ400



As things go, we scribbled on each others bikes for good luck.

Malawi really crept deep into our hearts, it’s a wonderful country with equal measures of friendly faces and colourful people, Malawi people are a laid back bunch there’s not much that upset them. *It is different to a sea vacation the water is clean and makes for easy swimming compared to sea swimming, no tides or currents when snorkelling and we spend more time swimming than normally when having a holiday at the coast.


kIDS DO THE DARNEST THINGS


EXCHANGE ROUTE INFORMATION AND DRINKING BEERS....WHAT A LIFE


It was time to get going, we have spend a good 3 weeks hanging around there, the fewer was getting to us.


TIME TO GET OUT OF THE WATER AND GET GOING