Back on a bike, and back in the USA! My TAT trip, 2018

[UKJeeper]

Hi. Brief back story: Used to ride, a long time ago (22 years), both for fun and for work (courier in Los Angeles) until I began to run out of luck, and into cars, several times in the space of 6 months. On my last trip to the ER I decided to hang up my helmet for the sake of myself and my young family.

Nearly a quarter century later, I took 'voluntary redundancy' from my job in the UK, and found myself in a position financially and timewise, to have an 'adventure'.

I'd always wanted to complete a trip from one US coast to the other, and have travelled the US, in part, several times before. I've piloted helicopters and light planes up and down various states, driven an RV from Connecticut to California (in 5 days), but always for someone else and on a strict schedule.

This time it was going to be for me, on my schedule, my term's. But how?

I considered options such as Route 66, but the idea of endless hours of freeway pounding didn't thrill me or fill me with enthusiasm. Then I read about the TAT. And that did 'float my boat'. It clicked.

Initially I considered doing it in my Jeep Wrangler. I had plenty of 4x4 experience both in the US and UK, having gotten into Jeeps when I got off bikes. But it didn't quite seem 'right'. Then my Lady suggested I do it on a motorcycle. That maybe it was time to ride again.

So, I signed up to take my UK bike tests and started to look around for which motorcycle I should use, eventually reading about the CB500X and how it could be turned from a mediocre commuter bike into an affordable ADV vehicle. Which brought me to Rally Raid and their various upgrade options.

My initial plan involved buying a CB500X in the US and picking it up at the beginning of the journey. Fortunately this became problematic due to the requirements to register the bike in my name in the US. I say fortunately as I realise now that jumping on a motorcycle, after 22 years with only 5 hours of practice for the UK licence, to ride 5000 miles, would have been a bad idea.

So I looked around for a UK CB500X, which is when Jenny (Morgan) told me about Rally Raid selling an ex demo bike. After a bit of back and forth over which parts to include and the price, I picked it up the day after passing my test!

I chose to take the Air Canada method of shipping the bike, as financially it is at least as good, or better, than sea freighting with the advantage that it flies with you and is instantly available on arrival (in theory anyway, I'll get to that) rather that the 6 weeks of no bike while it cruises the Atlantic.

So, booked the flight, for me and the bike and began the paperwork. Only to find that the only company who insured visitors and their vehicles to the US had pulled out of the market recently. Fortunately the broker I was working with found another option and the trip was back on!

After a couple of last minute panics over the EPA import certificate and the Canadian Eta visa, I rode the bike down to Heathrow and Air Canada cargo.



And the next day we were on our way! Arriving at Montreal I dashed off the plane and watched to make sure the bike was a) actually on the plane and b) still in one piece. Fortunately both were true. AC did a great job.




Once I'd successfully passed through customs I took a taxi to AC cargo on the other side of the airport. Only to be told that I'd have to go back to the terminal and convince customs to release the bike. Turns out the day after Canada Day is also a public holiday, so there were no officers at the AC cargo building and they are only supposed to sign off on perishables and live animals.

So, back to the terminal, and out with my best begging voice. Success! BACK to AC again with the all important stamped paperwork, and I was reunited with the bike!

As my phone provider had decided not to play nice with the Canadian cell service's, I had no Google maps to navigate my way down to the US border, but years of couriering had given me a good sense of direction and I was able to 'old school' my way south. Where I dealt with my second set of customs officers in 3 hours. Who, fortunately, were as helpful as their Canadian counterparts and I was on my way in 20 minutes!



By this time it was late o'clock, so I rode until my initial excitement (omg I'm here!) wore off and tiredness hit me. And stayed in Plattsburg overnight, where I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.



Early start the next day and with the sat-nag set to my friends house in Massachusetts I set out on my first full day of riding in the USA (after 22 years...). I avoided the main highway, instead picking route 9n. A very good choice as it turned out. It runs down the side of Lake Champlain and Lake George, providing spectacular views over the water along empty twisting well maintained roads .



Eventually finding my way to my friends house, in West Stockbridge, Mass.



The following day was July 4th, so spent the the day being shown around the area, going up to Mount Greylock, having a bbq at their cabin by 'Stockbridge Bowl' (the nearby lake) and making the colonials do a double take at seeing the British flag on Independence Day !





Back on the road the next day, with my sights set on my next stop, my Sister in laws place way down in North Carolina. I chose route 7 over the main highway, again a good choice as it passed through several iterations of 'small town America' on the way to White Plains, NY where I took time out to visit my Father in Laws grave and say "hi".





Then on into NYC, via FDR Drive into the heart of Manhattan, dodging the yellow cabs and hordes of Izombies to arrive at Times Square for a quick pic before continuing on Liberty Park where I tried, unsuccessfully, to convince the park rangers to put my bike on the waterfront for a pic with Lady Liberty. So I had to settle for an 'over the hedge' shot at spot down the road.






Leaving NYC I headed south, through New Jersey on fairly nondescript highways to Cape May and the ferry to Delaware, where I spent a pleasant 1.5 hours (and a ) with the other biker using the boat. He proclaimed he was taking "a long road trip", to Gettysburg... And was slightly amazed to hear my plans.



Off the ferry and yet more highway miles. Boring for the most part unfortunately as it was just monotonous highway pounding, but with not terrible views down through Delaware and Virginia. Eventually finding somewhere to crash for the night in 'nowheresville', getting a solid 9 hours of sleep.
Opening the room door at early o'clock I was hit in the face by yet another hot, humid day and resolved to find a solution to my being slowly cooked in the Alpinestar Andes jacket and thick gloves I'd been wearing. (and also realising my Vango Banshee tent had fallen off somewhere between Lewes, DE and the hotel
)

So I rode down to Norfolk VA, and found a bike shop, picking up a Bilt Charger MX (mesh and armour) jacket and MX gloves, along with some chain lube. SUCH a difference. No more overheating and not having to ride in just a base layer t-shirt (not safe). Breakfast at the pancake house next door, then more highway pounding to Arapahoe, NC, to find my In-laws and my base for the next couple of days.

[UKJeeper]

Long day. Left Arapahoe this morning and headed to the Cabelas just south of Rayleigh, to buy a replacement tent, freeze dried hiking food, etc. Then on the road to Boone, NC as I wanted to run the Blue Ridge Parkway down to Asheville. Had a great time on the 118 mile route. Loads of twisties opening up to views across the valleys. Plenty of other bikers up there too

After a long and frustrating evening looking for a campsite to plant the new tent and get some much needed sleep, I give up on 'under canvas' option and find a hotel instead.

Also, when the hotel only costs slightly more than the campsites crazy pitch fee (KOA, I'm talking about you!) why wouldn't you?!

Night all. First day on the TAT tomorrow.

[UKJeeper]

Checking in, after a day running through the mountains. Finally joined the ‘TAT’, at Mars Hill, NC. Every kind of road in the TAT so far, from smooth tarmac to deep soft cinder, often different around every corner! But stunning views to be found, and not enough traffic to be unable to look away from the road. Occasionally…



Strangely, one of the obstacles to look out for, after deer, rabbits and chipmunks (and the occasional snake) were box turtles. Who decided the tarmac was a great place to bask in the sun. Grapefruit sized 'organic' rocks, often just in the wrong place. Speaking of rocks, the Rally Raid engine guard earned its keep. Bouncing off a large rock that I couldn't lean round in time. An impressive ding in the metal, but not in the sump. So money well spent.

Bike has done fine, even with an inexperienced rider and a lot of weight up high. Got my left foot scraped a couple of times on the twisties. Not bad for TKC 80's!

Left the TAT at Maggies Valley, NC. Had a to cool down in town then headed up towards "Tail of the Dragon", with the intention of running it after all the 'yahoos' had gone home. But sense (and fatigue) won out and found a place to pitch up for night instead. Wasn't up for finding a place in the woods, but stumbled across the Iron Horse Resort Biker campsite and a good price (with WiFi though it very flaky).
Ended up next to a group of Australians who are travelling the US on their trikes that's they shipped from 'down under'.
New Cabelas tent went up. Quite impressed with it. Good quality and spacious. Plenty of room for my gear overnight if needed.

More pictures at some point, but the WiFi here is patchy at best.

[UKJeeper]

Just checking in. Currently in Collingwood, TN at 04:30 loading up on carbs n coffee ready for the day ahead. Had a late start to the trail yesterday as I spent a 1/2 day in Lynchburg TN doing the Jack Daniels distillery tour and walking round town.
Then ride down to Huntsville, AL to find a new rear tyre. Mine was totally done, but I'd had no luck finding a TKC80 at any store along the way. Fortunately Cycle Gear in Huntsville had one. But... they don't remove the wheel. So, I strapped the bike to a tree in the parking lot, shoved an old car wheel under the engine guard and pulled the bike wheel off!

As I started late, I ride on till sundown, and then kept riding. Rode 20 miles of the TAT, including 4 stream crossings, in the dark. Fortunately the £20 LED lights kick ass. Even got some good video, pics. But I really need to get my hands on a pc with a decent broadband. The WiFi I've used so far sucks.

Pushing on today. Had an invite to meet the fella who created the TAT, Sam. Should get to him in a couple of days.

Tracking site:

UKJeeper does the USA, on a motorcycle! - UKJeeper - Social Hiking

[ThirtyOne]

Just caught this thread. Wow, you were right in my neighborhood (Connecticut) while I was home visiting family.

Great RR. Keep us posted on the trip and safe travels. chug

[yaya]

Too bad i didn't saw it before i started my trip. Could add some nice roads.
I rode from NYC to Canada, and back south, now in New Orleans headed west.
BTW - it's not that hard to register a motorcycle in the us, especially in FL and CA. I got my bike and registered it in NY.
Be sure to do the Dragon's Tail if you still around. and gulf beaches roads in FL if you headed there.

[ThirtyOne]

How's the trip going?

[UKJeeper]

Originally Posted by ThirtyOne

How's the trip going?

Apologies. I've been updating everywhere else but here!

So, here goes:

29 July
Another long 'slab' today. 480 miles from June Lake, CA to Ely, NV via Reno and US Route 50. Which is billed as "the loneliest road into America". Probably because "400 miles of sweet FA to see" wouldn't have had the same draw.

Literally mile upon mile of nothing. I almost began to miss the 'scenery' of Oklahoma.







Almost...

There are about 3 small towns along the whole route. One at either end and one in the middle. All relying on the passing tourists to stay alive, so I stopped in Austin (the halfway point) and had lunch at the diner.



BUT, this was probably the last long 'slab' (tarmac only) ride of the trip. As of tomorrow I'm back on the TAT!

I was considering wild camping tonight, and had begun to check out potential sites by the side of the 50, until two decent sized coyotes strolled right through the most likely site.

So, came into town (Ely) and stayed at the Hotel Nevada instead!

[UKJeeper]

30 July
Back, on the TAT. From Baker to West Wendover, NV. Following the route of the Pony Express along its path on US Route 50 yesterday and now north on 180 miles of gravel road.



Signed the visitor book at canyon camp, but disappointed to see another TAT'er thought it would be OK to sign the box the book is kept in...

Stopped in Gold Hill, but don't think there's much gold there...





And found, by chance, a WWii German Panzer by the roadside!

[UKJeeper]

31 July
More TAT miles. Wendover to Tremonton, UT. Trail north of Wendover was rough. So much washboard! But eventually smoothed out leaving a very pleasant gravel, mud and occasionally sandy ride. Watched the forest forest in hills to the north east, but far enough away not to be concerned.





Eventually reached Kelton. Originally a main line station for the Trans Pacific Railway, now almost nothing remains, except the ruins of the hotel and graveyard. Along the trail after leaving Kelton there are small placards showing where the smaller settlements along the railroad used to be.



Finally reached tarmac, after about 300 miles of gravel!



Time for something to eat and a place to rest. Idaho tomorrow.

[UKJeeper]

1st August.

Hello, Idaho! Very nice ride up from Near Holbrook this morning. Stopping at American Falls for fuel and coffee (and one of the huge cinnamon rolls they make at The Ranch gas station!).

After I crossed The Great Rift and made it to American Falls, I decided to go and see Craters of the Moon national park. Definitely a good choice. A must see if you come through here on the TAT.









My campsite was picked a little earlier than expected, just as I got to Challis national forest, the CB felt 'off'. Pulled over and found I had a flat rear tyre. Found a huge fence staple right in the middle of the tread. So, out with the Safety Seal plugs and compressor. No drama.





So set up camp, right by the cattle grid entrance to Challis. There must be a fire somewhere nearby as there was ash falling all night, along with the ever pervasive smell of smoke.

Set off at 7am to climb over the mountain pass. Stunning views on the way up, and the trail wasn't too challenging. But the views all the way down the back, to Ketchum! Amazing!






Rode from Ketchum along the 227, passing the road closed signs, to Smokey Bar Cafe. Got an update from Rick, a local, to say it's still fubar, so played it safe and dropped down to Fairfield.

I know others have gotten through, in a group, to help carry their bikes. But I'm on my own and lugging 400lbs through washed out roads in 90f has ZERO appeal to me.

So I headed down the hill to the convenience store in Fairfield, downing Gatorade and Cliff bars, watching the swarms of crickets. Fortunately I decided to just chill here, as for the first time on the trip, I left my wallet at the checkout!

Rode up to Featherville, ID and found the only hotel in town. A very small town. I'd say a 'one horse town', but pretty sure even the horse has left. The heart of the town; the bar, hotel, shop and diner are all for sale as a job lot.

[ThirtyOne]

Awesome. Glad to see you made it safe and got to complete the trip as planned.

The TAT is on my bucket list. So care to field a few questions?

Favorite leg of the trip?
If you had to do it again would you wish for more time or was the 5 weeks enough?
Happy with the choice of bike?
Looks like you went with the tubeless option for the RR wheels. Like them?

[UKJeeper]

Originally Posted by ThirtyOne

Awesome. Glad to see you made it safe and got to complete the trip as planned.

The TAT is on my bucket list. So care to field a few questions?

Favorite leg of the trip?
If you had to do it again would you wish for more time or was the 5 weeks enough?
Happy with the choice of bike?
Looks like you went with the tubeless option for the RR wheels. Like them?

I think you can break it down into three sections: East, Oklahoma, and West.

East, and West both have their plus points, and sections that are just amazing to ride. Oklahoma you can just skip. Enter via Arkansas, and go straight through to Colorado.

Idaho surprised me, in just how nice it was. The Eastern part was flatter and more farmland, then up into mountains and long views followed by scenic canyon runs.

Next time, I'll go so much slower. I felt I rushed through, at least the first half, and missed a lot. I'll also do what I eventually did on the second half, which is NOT do all TAT, all the time.

The TAT is a great trail, and probably one of the most interesting alternatives for going coast to coast. BUT, I did find that you don't get to see much of 'America' as you'd think. It does become endless days of trees 'n gravel and not much else. Which, for some, is fine. However if you want to explore America, the small towns, the people, the history, it's not the best way to do it. Use the TAT as a fun way to travel between places, but then get off and so SEE those places.

In addition, getting on and off the TAT allows you to scoot ahead, creating more time to go explore, rather than plod along.

The 6 weeks I took, (minus 1 week in L.A) is plenty of time. Again, if you find yourself short on time, jump ahead ('slab it'). You can ride the distance on tarmac in a couple of hours what it might take you a day on the TAT.

Was I happy with the CB. Oh, absolutely. Slightly too heavy on places like Ophir Pass, but otherwise a good balance between tarmac muncher and dirt eater. Would slab all day at 80, or stroll through the woods at 30. And then just get up and go the next day.

The engine guard took a beating, but did it's job of protecting the engine. RR said they've not seen one quite that.. used, and want to me to go up to see them for a 'post mortem', so they can see if changes are needed in future guards.

Tubeless tyres were a good choice. Had to plug 3 holes while out there. Two at the same time (large staple). Much easier than pulling tubes out. Just plug, inflate, and go.

[ThirtyOne]

Originally Posted by UKJeeper

I think you can break it down into three sections: East, Oklahoma, and West.

East, and West both have their plus points, and sections that are just amazing to ride. Oklahoma you can just skip. Enter via Arkansas, and go straight through to Colorado.

Idaho surprised me, in just how nice it was. The Eastern part was flatter and more farmland, then up into mountains and long views followed by scenic canyon runs.

Next time, I'll go so much slower. I felt I rushed through, at least the first half, and missed a lot. I'll also do what I eventually did on the second half, which is NOT do all TAT, all the time.

The TAT is a great trail, and probably one of the most interesting alternatives for going coast to coast. BUT, I did find that you don't get to see much of 'America' as you'd think. It does become endless days of trees 'n gravel and not much else. Which, for some, is fine. However if you want to explore America, the small towns, the people, the history, it's not the best way to do it. Use the TAT as a fun way to travel between places, but then get off and so SEE those places.

In addition, getting on and off the TAT allows you to scoot ahead, creating more time to go explore, rather than plod along.

The 6 weeks I took, (minus 1 week in L.A) is plenty of time. Again, if you find yourself short on time, jump ahead ('slab it'). You can ride the distance on tarmac in a couple of hours what it might take you a day on the TAT.

Was I happy with the CB. Oh, absolutely. Slightly too heavy on places like Ophir Pass, but otherwise a good balance between tarmac muncher and dirt eater. Would slab all day at 80, or stroll through the woods at 30. And then just get up and go the next day.

The engine guard took a beating, but did it's job of protecting the engine. RR said they've not seen one quite that.. used, and want to me to go up to see them for a 'post mortem', so they can see if changes are needed in future guards.

Tubeless tyres were a good choice. Had to plug 3 holes while out there. Two at the same time (large staple). Much easier than pulling tubes out. Just plug, inflate, and go.

All good to hear and makes perfect sense. I've followed Jenny's TAT threads over on ADVr and she had said the same thing about the TAT. It's more of a rough guideline to go from one end to the other, but it pays to get off the trail and wander out in other directions.

Glad you're happy with the CB. If you had the L2 kit, do you think that the bashplate would have fared better? Or you didn't really need the ground clearance in that respect?

[UKJeeper]

Originally Posted by ThirtyOne

All good to hear and makes perfect sense. I've followed Jenny's TAT threads over on ADVr and she had said the same thing about the TAT. It's more of a rough guideline to go from one end to the other, but it pays to get off the trail and wander out in other directions.

Glad you're happy with the CB. If you had the L2 kit, do you think that the bashplate would have fared better? Or you didn't really need the ground clearance in that respect?

The L2 kit would have put the guard 2" further away from the ground, which may have helped, on occasion. Problem is, for me, that the L2 kit also puts your feet 2" further away from the ground. I've sat on a few L2 CB's, and they'e all just thismuch too tall. On the L1 I can easy get my foot to the ground, on and L2 I think I would have had trouble doing so. Especially when I needed to in a hurry.