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5 Aug 2015
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It wasn't all plain-sailing from there since Dam's car had a flat.
And as Daniel rode into Ulaangom alone, he discovered that the truck had got stuck in the sand.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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X-rays at the local hospital show, as suspected, nothing was broken and I'm prescribed an interesting cocktail of supplements and painkillers.
Whilst I'm at the hospital, Dam's brother, Baathar appears with two large gentlemen and escort me to the dispensary and then to a hotel. It's the State Festival in Ulaangom and no hotel rooms had been available but they have found us a room in a guest house. One room, two beds, shared toilet, no shower.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
Last edited by Wildman; 5 Aug 2015 at 17:28.
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5 Aug 2015
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Dam tells us that he'll return at 10:00 the next morning. We enquire at midday and he messages that he has a busy day and can't come. The challenge that we have is that we don't know where my motorcycle is. Baathar texts at 14:15 that a driver will be with us within the hour. The driver never arrives. We chase at 18:00, resigned to spending another night in Ulaangom. No response.
We go for dinner but, due to the Festival, no restaurants are open. We discover that the bike is at Autoservice Badaa but there's no addresses or street names in Ulaangom and no one, not even the police, know where it is. We buy Kimchi and eat at 21:00. A frustrating day but these people wouldn't let me pay for anything yesterday; their hospitality knows no bounds.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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166 miles from Ulaangom towards Burgaasatyn Ortoo (only 23 miles from each other)
At 00:47, there's a knock on our hotel room door. It's Dam. He says, "We get motorcycle now". And we did. Autoservice Badaa was less than a mile away.
Dam had been racing that day as part of the Festival and Daniel and I fully understand. He'd come back to his home town from Moscow, where he works, to participate in the festivities. He was beautifully dressed in white silk with a broad-rimmed hat and leather riding boots.
After we collect the bike, he takes some photographs and we hug and kiss (a local custom). I'm very grateful that this gentleman became a part of our life.
The next day we find pristine tarmac. Pretty soon I realise that my steering is not right. I'd noticed and commented to Daniel on a "clunkiness" over previous days but under heavy braking on a paved road, the bars wobble uncontrollably. Daniel takes a ride and it's clear that my steering head bolt is loose. I'd had new steering head bearings fitted immediately before leaving on the trip. Had the bolt shaken loose or was it not properly tightened in the first place? We'll never know.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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We got carried away with the paved road, in the hope that it was heading where we wanted to go which was south. It wasn't showing on any map or GPS being so new. Unfortunately, the road slowly turned east. We headed back and stopped at a great little cafe and met lovely people.
They showed us a shortcut to our destination. Just follow the telegraph poles was the clear message.
It soon became clear that whilst this was a great shortcut for lightweight bikes, ours were struggling as the terrain became more and more ... you've guessed it ... sandy! Daniel rode on to see if it improved. He returned to say that it got worse so we turned back after 5kms.
As we headed back towards town.
Daniel's first drop of the trip although, in his defence, he was now carrying my heavy bag and I, his lighter one. That's what good riding buddies do!
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
Last edited by Wildman; 31 Aug 2015 at 21:57.
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5 Aug 2015
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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116 miles from Burgaasatayn Ortoo to Khovd
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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135 miles from Khovd to Ulgii
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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We get our only, "Over the boots" water crossing.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
Last edited by Wildman; 5 Aug 2015 at 22:13.
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5 Aug 2015
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Ahem.
Believe it or not, the wind blew me over. Honest.
The last 60kms into Ulgii are paved.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
Last edited by Wildman; 5 Aug 2015 at 21:15.
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5 Aug 2015
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2 days, 715 miles from Ulgii to Rubtsovsk
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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Contributing Member
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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3 days, 948 miles through Kazakhstan to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan
We put in some big miles so as not be rushed at the end. Three days of dodging potholes, thunderstorms and the notorious Kazakh police.
We made it.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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5 Aug 2015
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Dropping off the bikes in Bishkek.
A group of Italian riders had just arrived to start their trip from Bishkek.
One of them was 80 years old. Inspirational.
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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand
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Next HU Events
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2025 Confirmed Events:
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2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
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Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
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New to Horizons Unlimited?
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Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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