Sometimes you get more than you bargained for. And friendliness can change your day. So it happened to me today.

Currently I am sitting in a cheap hotel in Wukro. AU$1.80 per night in a clean room with electricity is not too bad, is it? The area I am travelling in at the moment is in Tigray Region in North-Eastern Ethiopia. It is an area full of churches hewn deep into the rocks. These churches are old, almost as old as Christianity in Ethiopia. According to unofficial counts there are 140 churches around here. The most fascinating feature for most is their locations.
The Tigray area is basically a dry desert plateau of 2000m elevation above sea level. Rising out of this plateau are huge red sandstone rocks in their elevation beyond 3000m. It is not a mountain range, just some big singular high peaks. And it is there where almost 2000 years ago keen monks or even saints chiselled churches into the sand stone rock. In the most remote locations high above the plateau or often right on top of the mountains. Even today it is not easy to visit some of these churches. They are masterfully camouflaged into the rock, often all you see is a door on the rockface. Completely invisible from the ground. They are also very hard to find. Far away from any road, hardly ever signposted. Once you found the best stopping location on the road the real adventure begins. Getting to the church involves long walks through rough terrain, sometimes climbs up onto the cliff face or even someone to pull you up on a rope.
While Martin is still travelling by bus (we're still waiting for his new fuel pump to arrive) I used the freedom of having my motorcycle to visit a few of these remote churches during the past few days. Locations like the Debre Damo monastery, a big monastery of 150 monks living up on a mountain top. The only access being an old weathered leather rope. Or Maryam Biznan, one of the rock hewn churches far from any civilisation. Maryam Biznan is a 23km ride from Hawzien, the nearest town. A ride along a lonely sandy road. And then a more than one hour climb up a mountain, traversing a tunnel through a rock wall up on the mountain top and more climbing on the other side. The scenery here is just breathtaking. The whole scale of the landscape is massive. A flat plateau with red mountains sticking out of it. From up there you can see the mountains around Axum and Adwa, more than 100km away. And everything in between. What's best is that I usually book into some cheap hotel before going to those churches. And leave all my luggage there, all but my small backpack for camera and water. So I can ride these awesome lonely dirtroads without luggage. That is so much fun! Even my old enemy sand is now heaps cool to ride through. Incredible what a difference in the fun factor it makes to have no luggage! I just love riding here, every minute of it. And my little Suzuki seems to enjoy this part of Ethiopia just as much. The two of us. Searching an endless landscape for tiny churches hidden up in the mountains.

However, today was my most remarkable day in this area. As so often if you have time for people it will change the course of the day.
I was to visit the Abuna Yemata church today, a church described as one of the hardest to get to and one to be located in the most impressive setting. It is pretty expensive to get there, it's usually a 100Birr entrance fee plus a 250Birr for a compulsory guide plus tips for the priest and the guy to watch your vehicle etc, much more money than I was prepared to pay. My strategy in these cases is to overwhelm the others with friendlyness and play the poor guy at the same time. Playing the poor guy is not even that hard. Because after all this travelling without having any job the money drains away much too easily. So when people ask me for ridiculous amounts of money I tell them exactly this story. That I am travelling for one year without earning anything. And I am here to learn about THEIR country. Ethiopians are very proud of their country and when you show interest in them and their place they really appreciate it. And it changes the mood very quickly into them trying to help you to get the most out of your visit without having to pay high tourist prices. Win-win for all.
So this morning I just showed up at the end of the road to climb up Abuna Yemata. Right there a couple of people already waiting, happy to see a tourist. And offering me to guide me up to the church. Me telling the usual (true) story and showing the empty pockets of my dusty pants had an unexpected effect. These guides no longer asked for money but explained me the way. One guy tasked to guard my little Suzuki with all the luggage said he would be happy with whatever amount I would be happy to give him. So I left my little Suzuki there and started making my way up. One of the guides walking with me saying he is happy to come with me. 'Money no problem'. Just like that. And I was happy to have some company too, why not.
Shortly after we run into the priest of the church. Usually you give him a 100Birr tip and he goes with you to unlock the church. The priest looked pretty old. Later I learned he was only 55. Orthodox priests enjoy a lot of respect from everyone here. My guide kissing his golden cross and his hand and bowing down for him many times. The priest apologised that he could not come with us today because he had a strong headache. He did not speak English but in his gestures he was a very friendly guy, calm and concious of his status in the society. At this stage part 2 of my strategy came into effect, 'overwhelm them with friendliness'. After respectfully greeting him I offered to give him some painkillers. After completing more than half of my journey I still have not used any of my Panadols. So I have heaps in my panniers. And these are incredibly hard to come by here in rural Ethiopia. I unpacked my old cup and filled it with fresh water for him to flush down the big tablets. So needless to say that the priest was heaps happy, thanking me many times and promptly halving the money to receive the key for the church. Instead of him the dean would climb up with us. So the three of us, the guide, the dean and me made our way up. And what a path it was. One hour to reach the church from where my little Suzuki was happily parked in the shade. One section, probably 10-20m high involved climbing up a perpendicular cliff face. With a 200m drop underneath. All there was where tiny little recesses to put your toes or fingers in. No shoes here. So all three of us climbed up there barefeet to maximise control. If you ever needed an adrenalin rush, hanging on your toes and fingers above a 200m void is a sure way to get one. No ropes, no security. All I was assured of was 'god's blessing'. Maybe I am exaggerating here but I am not a climber. Never was one. Never interested in being one. And this was way out of my depth and easily the scariest thing I've done in Ethiopia so far. And at this stage I surely was very happy for my two helpers guiding me up that cliff wall. They patiently showed me where to put my toes and fingers. I must say just me, by myself, I would not have made it. But determination brings you further. Now I WANTED to see this church. Hanging on that rock wall I really wanted to. And slowly but steadily we achieved new hights. Up there, on a tiny V-shaped section was the centre of this area's orthodox world. First we came past a cave full with bones. Bones of the priests who devoted their life to this church many centuries before we could climb up there. Since the fourth century AD. Some white sun bleached skulls curiously watching us from their cave. The rock walls up here had many writings and orthodox crosses chiselled in. There was another cave used as a baptising chamber (How the hell do they get these babies up here?). And then there was the main church. Just a door in the rock wall which noisily swung open. It opened a large man made cave to us. Three rockpillars left standing to support the remaining 200m of rock above the ceiling. The floor was covered with straw mats. And the walls were covered with incredibly colourful paintings. These paintings were done in the fifteenth century. But they still look as if they've been done last week. An amazing display of colours showing saints and other important persons linked to the long history of Abuna Yemata. The atmosphere in there was truly intense. My guide explained every bit of painting. Slowly and calmly and obviously with a lot of respect. This is the place where, for centuries until now, the village would meet to pray. The priest, hidden behind a curtain of colourful cotton would preach in the ancient language of Geez. In front of the curtain the dean would translate to the village people. In the dim light of a church hewn deep inside the rock. Watched over by the colourful faces of all saints of importance, looking down from the ceiling or the walls. A procedure unchanged for centuries.
Back then churches were built far away from villages on purpose. High up in the mountains to make the journey to them as tiring as possible. Because when you arrive there after a long hard journey your mind would be clean and free for focussing on religious matters. Also these remote locations protect from any disturbance. In fact, deep inside the rock of Abuna Yemata it was absolutely silent. The rock shielded us from all outside sounds. And every word we spoke inside could be spoken quitely and calmly and was distributed through the entire church by the echoing from the rockwalls. An atmosphere of calmness I rarely felt anywhere else. Truly a place to relax.
Every Sunday midnight (!!!) and on many other occasions people from the surrounding villages come up here to attend a three hour service. Old people and young people. One apparently 85 years old. Decades of weekly climbs kept him fit enough to continue to climb up there in the dark midnight hours in his high age. The devotion of these people to their church is really incredible. But it is also this belief, this church, which keeps the village together. As I would soon learn. The village of around 50 people sticks together like one family.
During our climb up and the even scarier climb down I could really well connect to my guide. So once back at my little Suzuki he was happy with the little money I could afford to give him and even invited me to his place to eat lunch together.
Let me tell you a little side story here. In orthodox tradition, if you marry, you celebrate for 4 months and 2 weeks. There is usually a large room in the house of the husband's parents reserved for this. During these 4 months and 2 weeks the husband and wife together with the five best friends of the husband will live together in that room. Other friends and family will occasionally drop by for some slice of this 'celebration'. 'Celebration' here means eating together, drinking together and playing music and dancing and also playing traditional games together.
Well, destiny had it that my guide was one of those five best friends of one newly wed husband. So he did not live in his home but in a 'celebration room' some three km away. Unable to take passengers and luggage on the bike we parked my little Suzuki safely at someone's house near the church and walked through the harvested millet fields to his temporary 'home'. A long walk through a sunburnt countryside. Once there the celebrants started celebrating us. Ethiopians are very hospitable. And having a guest from far far away is seen as a big honour. Which naturally made me feel a little bit awkward. When they started thanking me for 'sacrificing my time to visit' them I was really puzzled because it was actually me feeling thankful for being invited to their home. There were many people. Also the priest, now free from headache and smiling. What followed were many hours of celebrating together. The traditional way. Someone always explained the tradition to me and asked if I was okay with it. Who am I to decide anyway? Of course I was okay by default. So we ate Injera together. The traditional way. Using our fingers to feed each other Injera into their mouth. Strange feeling to feed the beautiful bride next to me with my hands. Then we played games. Games involving four small carved timber sticks and hitting each other with them. Or card games. We played the drum. And we danced around a timber pole. Dancing around a timber pole to the beats of a goat skin drum really hypes you up and feels good. My skills in traditional Ethiopian dance (lots of shaking your shoulders to very repetative music) are, quite frankly, not so awesome. But they provided good entertainment for sure. So we really had a fun time. And I learned a lot, really a lot, about Ethiopia in these hours. Feeling incredibly grateful for this opportunity I couldn't believe the guide thanking me on our way back to my little Suzuki. For showing interest and making time.

Cool hey? Starting with competing for my business to hire a tour guide. Diverting through a friendly talk and walk. Ending up celebrating the wedding of a best friend together. And all people involved getting much more out of it than just doing business for money. These are the days I live for here in Africa.

Again it was one day full of emotions. Unsure expectation, will I struck a deal to visit? Deep fear when nervously looking down from that rock wall. A sense of achievment upon reaching the top filled with adrenalin. Calm relaxation and sheer astonishment inside that beautiful church. Forming friendship on the way back down. Happyness when sharing the fun of the wedding celebration. And a really good feeling going to bed after such a great day. Again, memories which will last on for a long long time to come

I suppose this experience at Abuna Yemata church would be hard to repeat at the other churches. Again, it's people much more than places to provide the memorable moments. So I am very reluctant to visit other similar churches in the area. And might just see the most impressive ones from the outside. It's the location, the walk and climb to get there in this huge environment, that impresses the most anyway.

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no risk - no fun

Maryam Bisnan, a rock hewn church high up in the mountains. It took me more than one hour to get here from the road. All you can see from the outside is this.


The sandstone rocks in the vicinity of Maryam Bisnan are decorated with religious symbols.


The view from Maryam Bisnan down into the endless landscape of northern Ethiopia.


Leaving tyre tracks on a typical gravel road. Near Hawzien.

__________________
no risk - no fun

The view while walking up to Abuna Yemata. We have not even reached the steep cliff face yet.


Up there we have to go. No rope. No security. God's blessing alone helped in this case.


That's me at the top, happy to be alive.


The inside of the Abuna Yemata is incredibly colourful. These paintings are almost 600 years old, on the walls and ceiling of a 1600 year old church. The entire church is chiselled deep inside the rock. The cavelike flair, being surrounded by paintings of faces looking down on you and the total silence make for a really intense atmosphere.


The dean who climbed up with us to open the church. During the hairy bit of climbing up the rock face he helped me a lot guiding my hands and feet and by taking my backpack.


Trust is everything. Underneath this 'bridge' is 250m of nothing.


Safely back at the bike. You can't see it but Abuna Yemata is high up inside the right rock finger in the foreground of the big mountain.

__________________
no risk - no fun

Long shadows in the evening twilight. The church of Abraha Atsbha in the background. The actual church is dug inside the rock behind the building on that hill.


View from Abraha Atsbha down into the valley.


It is a very pleasant change to be able to ride without luggage. The dirt roads in this area are heaps fun.


Mikael Imba church. It is hard to believe but the entire church was carved out of one monolithic rock. The church building is one with the surrounding sandstone, the interior was simply hollowed out.


Inside Mikael Imba church.


The orthodox church has earned a huge importance in the village life. Procedures are strictly followed and people highly respected.


Villages in this part of Tigrai Region consist of houses quite far apart from each other. Houses are built as closed circles with all windows and doors towards the inner courtyard. Almost like medieval castles. Each of these circles consists of many houses, one for each generation of the same family. Building material is usually bare rocks, put together without the use of any mortar.

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no risk - no fun

Time is flying by and so are my km. I am still in Ethiopia, currently in a small town called Sekota. Martin is still travelling by bus and we should meet again in Lalibela tomorrow or the day after.
There were not too many highlights to write about since leaving the area of the rock churches. First I stayed in Wukro for three days. There was no particular reason for staying for three days except that I really liked it there. There was a cheap hotel, cheap but clean and good. I sort of became part of the family who owned it. We shared our meals, they let me take part in their coffee ceremony every evening. There was satellite TV. But for some reason everyone in Ethiopia loves to watch Wrestling. So that's what was shown on TV all the time. However, there were two small but lovely dogs as well. Really playful ones. So it was fun to stay there.
When I arrived in Wukro I had no idea about the place. So when I asked a random person for advice on a cheap hotel I met a young guy called Alex. He showed me the beautiful hotel I quickly learned to love. And he also showed me around town. He had no family, no mum or dad, but earned a little money from washing cars to afford his own room (AU$1.75 rent per month) and his own simple but happy life. We became good mates during these three days and I met many of his friends and girlfriends as well. And took part in the local Tshat chewing session. And shared cheap food with them. So it were three days of a simple life but three really cool days.
Tshat is quite interesting stuff. Strictly speaking it's a drug. But not a powerful one. It's green leaves which you chew and chew and chew for hours. People say it makes you happy and keeps you focussed and awake. To be honest, I could not feel any effect apart from it making me a bit less tired, similar to a cup of coffee.
But the procedure to consume it is pretty cool. Because it's really social. You sit together in a group of friends. And while you're chewing you talk about the world, the universe and everything. A typical share of Tshat lasts for around two hours of chewing. So plenty of time to talk.

After three good days in Wukro I moved on to new places. Going South the road was just fantastic again. Beautiful tarmac meandering up and down the mountains. With views that just make you stop and say 'Wow!'. The road takes you up to elevations of beyond 3000m. Whereas my little Suzuki seems to have no issues with this height (I thought carburator engines have trouble at heights???) I certainly have my problems with it. Because it's freezing up there. I mean, I'm in Africa! I don't want to wear four layers of clothes. But I had to. Man was it cold.
That night after a happy day of great riding I stopped tired and cold in a town called Maychew. Still at an elevation of more than 2500m it was cold, so cold. So first priority was to find a place selling hot coffee. And from that moment on things took their own turns.
What I did not know was that right at this time Maychew hosted the Tigray Region Athletic Championships. So the whole town was filled up with over 5000 young hyped up athletes from all over the state in party mood. Before I even had a chance to order my coffee I was surrounded by a big group of them. Three of them automatically took over my case and before I knew I had my coffee. And a cheap room. And dinner. And personal guides for the town. No one asked for anything in return, people here are genuinly, honestly friendly. And that is a really cool feeling. Funnily enough the three guys 'adopting' me are part of the team representing Wukro. Of course they also knew Alex. So in the evening we sat together and watched a few of my many photos. Photos from Ethiopia, places of their country they have never seen. And photos of Australia.
After a freezing cold night I went for breakfast the next morning, keen for something warm. At the time my three friends were competing in the 100m sprint race. But anyway, I entered the restaurant and immediately was invited to sit on the table of a group of maybe 5 other athletes. Chairs shuffled aside to make room. From somehwere a clean spoon appeared and I was invited to share all their food on the table before I even had a chance to order my own. Man, that stuff had a lot of carbs and protein. But hey, they were athletes. As I learned their speciality was martial arts. Better take care with these guys. But we had a lot of fun on this table, communicating with broken English and a lot of excitement while drinking cheap but hot tea. One even offered me his sister to marry! On the photo she looked really cool. But however, I decided it was time to go. So I left Maychew, buying some black market petrol in plastic bottles on the way out.

The beautiful road continued South. Now mostly downhill into much warmer elevations. Really cosy actually. Past Lake Ashange and into Korem town. From there I opted for going West onto a dirtroad to Lalibela. Lonely Planet decribed that road as 'rough and dusty'. But to my surprise it wasn't. It was a wide and perfectly graded smooth gravel road. Once more winding it's way through a stunning landscape of brown mountains, high and cold mountain passroads, deep valleys and far horizons. I just kept shouting 'wow wow wow!!!' into my helmet, really awesome to ride along there. Every now and then I found a small village to enjoy one of the excellent Ethiopian coffees before riding on again, riding west towards Sekota, shouting 'wow wow WOW' at every corner that opened a new view deep down into another valley.
Arriving in Sekota I was really surprised that out of all places it was here that petrol was available for normal prices at a petrol station! Quickly I had two new friends as well. Two young guys in clothes I would describe as 'rotten'. But really friendly again. They helped me finding a room. Although most places were booked out ('rooms finished') we finally found one for me. Which made them almost more happy than me.
Guest houses in Sekota don't have water. Water is a really rare commodity here. So when my two friends decided that I need a shower (if two people in dirty rotten clothes advise you to take a shower it surely means something...) we tried to find water. There are 'shower houses' in town where you can go with your soap and towel, pay two Birr ($0.30) and take a shower. But nothing is easy in Ethiopia. Most shower houses had 'water finished'. Soon I was frustrated enough to give up but my friends insisted I need a shower (can't imagine it was so bad). And finally we found a shower house with water. Finally. And I must admit that shower felt really good.
Afterwards my friends showed me a good place for dinner. But refused to let me buy a dinner for them. Instead, while I was eating a fantastic Enjera they started scavanging food scraps and unfinished meals from the other tables. But would not accept anything from me. Them being more happy than me for finding me accommodation, shower and food we went back to my room together and chatted for a while longer.
My two friends were 16 and 25 years old. The 25 year old going to school in grade 9. The 16 year old never went to school. They make some tiny amount of money by washing cars and helping out in a restaurant as waiter to earn some food scraps.
After a while they said good bye and got ready to leave. When I asked them how long they have to walk home they said they don't know. With some obvious embarrassment. I soon learned they were on their way to sleep on the footpath. Their parents are divorced and both only have a mother to go back to. But the mothers live in a rural area far from here and in such poverty that they can not support the family. So these two sons went out to town to support themselves.
Quite frankly I was shocked. These guys, super friendly and helpful all day long. Happily laughing, chatting with me while showing me around town. Now leaving the hotel room which they organised for me. To sleep on the cold footpath. They would not accept anything from me. No food. No money. Not sleeping in my room. Nothing. The only thing they asked for I did not have: exercise books for school. What can I do? What a weird twist of things?

I decided to stay one extra day in Sekota and to spend one full day with these kids. And there are more of them. I instantly met two more. One badly limping. It's an injury on the sole of his right foot that happened seven months ago. Hoping I could do something using my little first aid skills I had alook at his foot. Removing the old bandage there was this stench of old puss. And what a horrible picture it was. The underside of his foot was wet, dirty, black and full of puss. It's a miracle he could walk at all. I really felt the pain by just looking at it. Not much we could do here apart from thoroughly washing the foot clean and put a new bandage on.

Out of the four kids three never went to school.

Finally at least they accepted that I buy some cheap dinner and share it with them. As bad as their state might look, these kids are really proud people. They would not accept any food for lunch from me. And even dinner was hard work of convincing them.

Africa keeps shocking me. In positive and negative ways. Quite often it is a world I truly do not understand. Full of processes that make no sense. Until someone explains the background and opens my eyes to give the 'Oh sh...t, of course!!!' effect. I guess that is one major reason why I still, above all else, find the most impressive thing in Africa to be the African people. Their sense of community, of belonging, their friendship and hospitality, their way of looking after each other. If you make time to learn to know them you will often be shaken in your foundations for how they live. And for how happy they are. I feel now how learning their stories changes me. And it changes my view of life. I don't know into what. But, I guess, this is what will be the longest lasting heritage out of this journey.

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no risk - no fun

Marco,

thank you for sharing your trip report and your experiences with us. I find them very touching. Your genuine respect for the people you are meeting on your trip is nothing but impressive.

I don´t think this world will become a better one if everybody lives the life of the Western societies. Living in Germany, where we can enjoy such a high living standard and still a very good social system I am constantly asking myself why the heck the people make such an unhappy impression to me. It can´t be because we are lacking in material things, healthcare or food. Maybe what you are experiencing is vital for the future of mankind. The persuit of wealth it sure is not.

If someone knows how to do it, it would be great to set up a little help fund via Paypal so that you can give a little bit of support along your route. I would be willing to pitch in. Maybe you still have a German bank account, I am definately willing to donate to the cause. Even if it only is enough for a wool blanket and a plastic tarp for your Ethiopean buddies, or payment for first aid, whatever. Shoot me a PM if this is OK for you.

Whatever, let your friends know they have our utmost respect and admiration on how they are living their lifes!

As far as I am concerned, even though my life has been pretty rough the last few years, your posts make me feel the priviledge to live in one of the wealthiest countries on this planet.

Thanks so much for sharing. I am glad I found your story.

Gute Reise.

Thanks Pete, thanks for your very nice reply. As you can read from my posts, travelling in Africa gives you a lot of reasons for thinking. I was thinking about the issue as well as to what is the best way to help. For that reason I am sure I will come back to Africa one day, better organised. Your idea with PayPal is good. But here in Africa due to lack of internet and bank accounts still difficult.
As for my journey now I am able to make a lot of contacts. Let me go back to Australia first and then use these contacts to do something.

So I guess I will meet you in Germany sometime!

Bis spaeter!

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no risk - no fun

One of my new favourite dogs guarding my little Suzuki at the guest house in Wukro.


My new friend Alex and me in Wukro.


The perfect road. Serpentine section between Wukro and Maychew.


Riding at elevations over 3000m. Bloody cold up there.


My little Suzuki being truly 'little' in this environment of giant valleys.


My two street kid friends and me in Sekota.

__________________
no risk - no fun

One of the must-do destinations in Ethiopia is undoubtedly Lalibela. A small town high up in the mountains which is known in the world for it's rock churches. It is only a 128km ride along a beautiful gravel road to get to Lalibela from Sekota. At first I was a bit hesitant. After the good times I had in the local towns during the last few weeks Lalibela would be the Mekka for tourists.
But when I arrived there, I was surprised. Instead of the expected touts following me around or people begging for money or inflated prices Lalibela offered many 'Welcome to Lalibela' greetings. Most restaurants served local food for local prices. And kids were more interested in me playing soccer with them then in money. Who would have thought?
I arrived in Lalibela just after lunch on a beautiful sunny day. From other travellers back in Addis Ababa we got the good advice that there is a cool restaurant with amazing views into the valleys around and they would accept campers. And to my surprise they did. The 'Ben Abeba' is a real upmarket restaurant offering good quality food for a pretty upmarket price. It's design is amazing, very modern. You could compare it to a space station out of the Star Trek movies. And it's location high on a hilltop (elevation 2500m) offering 360 degree views around is even better. Ben Abeba is co-owned by an Ethiopian guy and a Scottish lady. Both are really friendly and welcoming and allowed me to camp for free anywhere on the property. And also for Martin who was still stuck in Sekota waiting for transport.
To visit the famous rock churches you need to buy a rather expensive ticket. Which is valid for five days. So I bought one straight the next morning and started visiting some churches by myself (no bus on Sundays for Martin between Sekota and Lalibela). There is eleven of them in Lalibela. And they are all awesome. If you imagine you find a big rock. Then you start from the top, digging a deep hole into it but leave a big cube standing in the centre. So looking from the top you see a rock cube with a deep trench around it. And then you start hollowing out that cube. Like a cave. But inside you leave pillars, arcs, steps, walls. Into the walls you carve doors and windows. And into the pillars and ceiling you carve beautiful ornaments and crosses. You don't build anything, don't add anything. Just take away the rock. And what's left standing is a church. Made of massive rock. Which is one with the rock around it. A church that will last forever. And this is Lalibela. Times eleven. And one thousand years old. In short: it's awesome.
For the fact that it is number one tourist destination in Ethiopia these churches give you heaps freedom for discoveries. There is no railings, no prohibited signs. So you can climb up onto the roof, explore some dark tunnels and see where some paths carved deep into the surrounding rock will lead you. There is absolutly no signposting. And the tourist information run out of maps long time ago. So it's all up to you and your imagination.
On my first day of church exploration I found a great place to relax during mid day. Up on the rock edge, right next to where the churches had been carved out. And by coincidence this was also the favorite lunch spot of one of the security guards for the churches. An 80 year old skinny man whose main task was to check tickets of visitors. He was joined by his 18 year old grandson and two other family members. Ethiopians are friendly people and the old man insisted I share his lunch with him, some Enjera with goat meat. So I had to. And we sat there together with his family during his entire two hour lunch break chatting. His grandson translating. We connected so well there that I was even invited to come to their home for dinner later on.
When people invite me I usually accept. And either leave them a tip afterwards or a little present. I find this way you can experience local life as genuine as possible.
That evening I met a big family of uncles, aunts and many many happy kids. We had fantastic Enjera and great coffee. The grandson then offered me to show me another rock hewn church high up in the mountains the next day. Which I gladly accepted.
Funnily enough Martin sent me a SMS that he managed to secure a ride in the tray of a truck from Sekota and would also arrive in Lalibela that evening. So after dinner I waited at the Ben Abeba restaurant. There is literally no traffic around Lalibela at dark and from the high location of the restaurant we could see Martin's truck slowly moving through the night from kilometres away. Finally, for the first time since leaving Axum we managed to see each other again!
Martin and two other traveller friends now also camped at the restaurant and joined us to climb up to the Asheton monastry the next morning. After one and a half hours of climbing, up at a breathtaking elevation of 3300m, we found a church even older than the famous ones down in Lalibela. But it was the view which was the most impressive thing. I guess we could see for hundrets of km into the valleys. Down towards Lalibela, the river Jordan and the mountains around us.

There is alot of history in Lalibela. But it's also the people who make you want to stay for longer. I ended up staying for five days. While Martin started his journey to Addis Ababa in order to pick up the parcel containing his new fuel pump, my new back tyre and other spares for us. During these days people literally competed against each other as to who will invite me for coffee and who for dinner. And with whom I spend the morning and with whom the evening. It's a really welcoming folks up there. Consequently during these five days I drunk as much coffee as I normally would in two years. And had a lot of good food. And made many new friends. And we had long nights of drinking Tej (some strong local honey wine) or , we tried traditional Ethiopian dancing (mainly moving your shoulders and neck), listened to traditional music in small local bars and played a lot of Pool.
It was a fantastic time and I really loved Lalibela. For it's churches. But even more for it's people. The old guard and his grandson. The crew from Ben Abeba. And the people from the street who made me feel so welcome to their town.

Now I am in Debre Tabor, a big town along the road between Lalibela and Gondar. Still at an elevation of 2700m it is pretty cold here. Debre Tabor is not famous for anything but seems to be a nice place to stay for a day. On my first night I was already shown to some local traditional music place and had a lot of fun trying to dance Ethiopian style. And was invited to more good coffee.
Tomorrow night Martin will (hopefully with the local bus system) get to Gondar where his Africa Twin is still parked, waiting for the new fuel pump. We will meet there again, install all the spares from the parcel and then continue our journey together towards Sudan. Once again two friends on two motorcycles.

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no risk - no fun

One of the eleven rock churches in Lalibela. It is hard to imagine but the whole thing is carved into a huge rock. First a hole was chisseled into the rock with a big cube left standing. And then a church was carved into that cube. The original rock is still there as steep walls surrounding the curch.


Meeting people while relaxing on the rock next to the churches. The old man works as security guard in the church compound, his grandson (on the right side) would later be guiding us around Lalibela.


St George Church is one of the most beautiful ones. Also carved deep inside a rock.


We were very lucky to be allowed to camp at the Ben Abeba restaurant, a pretty high standard restaurant on a hilltop. The setting is just beautiful and the views are amazing. You can see the rather modern building of Ben Abeba in the distance.


People in Lalibela are very friendly and we got many invites for coffee or enjera into people's homes. This picture was taken inside the livingroom of a family. Standards are pretty poor, walls are bare and the floor is usually just dirt. But hospitality is rich and these people happily welcome you to their home.


St Gabriel, another church carved out of the rock.


Inside these churches you find a pretty intense atmosphere. It is dark, cold. You smell the burnt incense. And it is usually very quite. Except when a big group of tourists arrive with their guide.


Me with some new friends.


Ben Abeba has a very special design. When we arrived the restaurant was still in construction but already open for business. It provided one of the best campgrounds we have had in Ethiopia so far.

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no risk - no fun

Unfortunately it looks like these will be the last pics for a while. It's hard to believe but in the security guarded campground of our hotel in Gondar my backpack and my old motorbike pants got stolen out of the tent. Unfortunately my camera was in the backpack. And my passport and Visa card in the motorbike pants.
Police is confident they will find the perpetrator soon. But this confidence might not mean much in Africa. So I might be stuck in Ethiopia for a while longer.
I keep you posted..

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no risk - no fun

Sorry to hear about the theft. Hope things will get sorted out soon.

Enjoy your trip, after all, it is about travelling and meeting people.

It would be nice to meet you, Marco. The is on me!

Okay Pete, we´ve got a deal!



On another positive note - even the thiefs here are nice persons. One day after the theft a plastic bag mysteriously found its way back to my tent. Inside the bag my passport, motorbike keys, credit card, driver licence ...

The camera is gone though. But I still have a small little point and shoot. So dont worry, there will be more pics!!!!

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no risk - no fun

Biking Marco

Can you give an idea of what this has cost $$$$ so far.

and as you leave Africa, What you expect the European Part of the journey to be.

Marco,

Sorry to hear about the theft of your stuff, including your camera. I have a Canon G9 in very good condition you can have if I can get it to you. As unpredictable as your itinerary is that might be difficult, but I can mail it anywhere you'd like. I'm in Hawaii so I think perhaps a week or a week and a half to get it to East Africa.

Chris