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The Dempster Highway (Canada) Report The Dempster Highway (Canada) Report
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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 31 Jul 2009
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Montreal, Canada
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The Dempster Highway (Canada) Report
Hi There,
I completed the Dempster Hwy on July 27th 2008, reaching Inuvik at 2200hrs, as the initial leg of my PanAmerican Adventure next year. It was a fantastic adventure however was dangerous…at times extremely. I’m more than happy to give you information about the route so as you may better make a decision on whether or not to go. In my personal opinion, the Dempster should not be attempted without an Enduro or MX motorbike, and some degree of Off-Road riding. Although the highway can be a very clean gravel road, deteriorating weather conditions turn this route into absolute HELL. I prepared this report for HU a while ago but forgot to upload it. I had perfect cold weather the day up and cold rain/hell the way back down. Email for anything!!

Road Surface:
The Dempster Hwy can generally be broken into two sections at the Arctic Circle, where a vast majority of tourists (mostly in RVs) turn back South. North of the circle is generally only commuted by locals (Fort McPherson/Tsillis…/Inuvik) and adventurers trying to reach the Northernmost point in Canada (by road). Due to the weight and sheer number of the RVs and such, the road surface is riddled with potholes. However, these are NOT city potholes…because of the suspension, anytime the wheels it a hole in the road it starts to “bounces” which literally creates lines of a series of progressively larger potholes that generally span about 3-5m but there are longer ones and the longer the stretch, the larger and deeper the holes will get. These “strips” are very frequent up to the circle.
The northern section is generally in better condition however the route through the Richardson Mtns. does contain steep grades and blind tight corners. After the Richardson’s the road levels and straightens out all the way to Inuvik. There are two ferries to use which are open early morning to about midnight. There is also construction crews along the entire route resurfacing the road…this means they use a grader to spread a new layer of gravel mix to fill any holes; this fresh surface can be slick. Also, larger crews are found at major problem points, like where the road as recently washed out. The road can washout quite frequently during the thaw and throughout the summer months (3 occurred 4 days before I went up). The information center in Whitehorse and the Dempster Hwy “Center” in Dawson City will provide road conditions and significant events.

Extremely important to understand the Dempster has two faces or moods…everything detailed above are under good weather conditions; more precisely, under DRY conditions. Be well advised, the Dempster Hwy is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS and seriously life-threatening under WET conditions…email for accident stories (too many!). Under wet conditions the road surface becomes extremely slippery especially where the grader has passed. Also, not visible under dry conditions, there are three depressions in the surface along the entire road where the tires are constantly passing (left, middle, right…both directions share the middle line unless passing)…these fill with water creating three 3” deep pools about 736km long…the potholes are all in there too. Larger pools of water can form and can be deep in addition to the washouts mentioned above. Do not travel this hwy under wet conditions with road tyres…70% off-road tyres minimum.

Weather
This is the most important aspect governing any motorbike travel along the Dempster. Current and forecasted weather should be constantly verified and is available at centers in WH and DC. Although forecasts are usually generally precise for the area, all bets are off when in the Richardson’s. This area is subject to unpredictable weather and rain/fog is often found as you exit the mountain range when heading north. Also, there are some strong crosswinds when traveling parallel to the Richardson range just before entering it.
Although definitely warmer than winter, areas this far North do not experience summer. The temperature in these areas are as predictable as the rain, and one must be prepared to ride in temperatures as low as freezing…especially in the mornings and evenings. However, that being said, temperatures can just as easily reach 20-25C during the day…it is very erratic (2 wks of 20C+, and then I arrived, and froze from Whatson Lake, North and back…8 days of max. 8-10C…all the rivers/creeks along the Dempster still had ice on their banks). Carry Cold Weather Riding Gear!!

Traffic
As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of tourists going up to the Arctic Circle in vans, trucks, and RVs. Between the Arctic Circle and Fort McPherson, traffic becomes extremely sparse as its mostly only vehicles heading to the top. Lorries are used to supply the towns with products and the construction crews with gravel, and can be found throughout the Dempster. Approaching and between the towns there are more local vehicles and RCMP vehicles are present in and around the towns.
Under dry conditions, 100-120km/h can easily and safely be maintained even through the Richardson’s however there are marked signs indicating upcoming curves and suggested speeds throughout the Richardson’s and Ogilvy’s…Pay Attention!! Although you can travel faster through these curves, be aware that there is a curve coming and use caution.
Under HELL (wet) conditions, 100-120km/h can still be maintained however it is Extremely Dangerous, especially through the mountains. One should be very well advised to travel under these conditions only at a comfortable speed…Do Not Rush!
It is also very important to slow when passing vehicles stopped along the road and to stop for anyone asking for or appearing to require assistance…remember you may brake down as well!

Special Notes
Motorbike breakdowns do occur on this route with punctures being the main problem so be prepared with spare tubes and patch kits; and do not forget a pump and tire levers. When traveling behind vehicles, rocks do come up and can be very destructive, therefore headlight, radiator and vital components should be protected (I lost my entire headlamp…smashed). Also, when the road surface is wet, mud does slowly (sometimes rapidly) accumulate on the engine and does tend to clog the radiator...watch your engine temperature and be aware that air cooled engines are not properly cooled when covered in mud; mud is actually an extremely efficient heat insulator.
Bugs do get larger the further North one travels. Starting at about the territories boundary, the mozzies are the size of quarters…literally!
There is a hotel at the halfway mark (Eagle Plains) and in the northern towns. There are a few campgrounds along the route but they are well spread out. Backcountry camping is allowed however there are several problems with this option; to protect the road and the permafrost, the road surface is 3m above the ground and the banks are steep and loose…the other problem is the wildlife; bear in this area include Grizzly and Kodiak Grizzly in addition to the black and are high in population…wildlife viewing tours are present everyday in the Ogilvy’s. In 2007, a viewing group found a Polar Bear on the Dempster!!!
Firearms are permitted for protection against attacking wildlife, however hunting required permits and permission from first nation authorities (I brought my 300 riffle)
Everything is unbelievably expensive so have money…banks only in Inuvik; I think. (Gas: 1.85CAD/Ltr, Poutine: 11CAD on my trip).
The sun does not completely set starting at the Territories boundary however everywhere north of the Circle experiences 24hr Daylight. The sun literally goes round and round in the sky. Although seemingly unimportant, the 24 daylight does have pronounced effects on the mind and consequently the body. In addition, the Arctic itself is home to very different and strong magnetic fields. (I left Inuvik the day after arriving…the stress was too much and I literally felt the need to get out of the Arctic)
Travel time to complete one direction of the stretch is a minimum 1 solid day. I left Tombstone (km 79) at 0900hrs and arrived in Inuvik at 2200hrs...picture stops are plentiful throughout and many breaks are required to revive your butt as the vibrations are quite intense. However it is important to remember that due to the 24hr sun, one could ride all night and could therefore complete both North and South runs within 24hrs. An early start is required as the ferries stop at midnight...you must reach the Southern ferry before midnight or you will be stuck in the Arctic. Also, the distance between the ferries is quite significant (at least 1hr), DO NOT get trapped between them...you will be on your own with only the bears until morning (about 0700hrs). I was going to head right back south after dinner but I would have never made it to the second ferry...so spent the night (day) with the locals, who apparently don't sleep.
Enjoy your journeys.

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