Absolutely a catch up .... Antarctica you say ... hmmmm how did you get there, a dream, ambition and want of ours .... will have a chat to you about that if we may!

Like you we have been experiencing Nicaraguas finest, this is a a great place

We cross Drain with Ludwig on 12th August then sorta south from there, let keep in touch.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

In the middle of lake Nicaragua, the lake is more like a sea because of its size.

This is where we went



We caught the ferry just in time, an anxious local was busting his nuts to get us on the boat for no real reason and creating some confusion with the loading guys which was a little frustrating, he said we have to pay him $10 US .... we say what for? loading ...HA nup, then it went down to $5 then $1, with the confusion and stuffing around he caused I should have got $1 from him....HELPERS are NOT helpers.

Once we ignored him and loaded with the guys organising things everything went smooth, we were second to last on so Maya was right at the ramp, the cars were packed on as tight as sardines in a can but it all worked.





Reaching the island we headed off to our recommended accommodation, arriving there was a 500 meter climb to the hostel with our moto and gear being left down by the road ... wrong, that ain’t gonna happen, too hot to walk up with all the clobber and no way were leaving Maya down by the street to who knows what.

We carried on and found another place, not to bad, secure parking, clean room shared with two Canadians so we checked in stayed there for the two nights, given we had plenty of time left we took the luggage of and circumnavigated one end of the island which is formed by two Volcans, most of the road is unpaved and rough in places with some mud thrown in so an interesting ride.



The being loaded with watermelons, we had to squeeze around the outside



The road was narrow in places and just wide enough for the trucks



Only a few km before the hostel and just after we hit pavement again we stopped at a small cafe and had a great coffee and relax...then back to the hostel to get cleaned up for tea.



On our return we had some butterflies playing to the camera, Ellen managed to get a closeup



Day 2, time to check out the other side and circumnavigate the second volcano, the first part of the cobbled road is great condition then it turns into shingle and rock again, we followed the main cobbled section to the end to find we had to ride up a creek bed for 1km before getting back on to the main dirt road.







Ellen hoped off in a few places to help me out which was great, less work to handle the mighty Mayan.



Once back on the main dirt road it was plain sailing for the most other than some rocky lumpy sections but by all account way smoother than the previous day.

We stopped at Altagracia for some lunch, in the town centro there is a cool volcano model of Ometepe Island



We then carried on back to the hostel to get swimming gear and head back to the natural pools, we swam for a while and relaxed.



We headed back to the hostel as I wanted to get some ride reports out however the wifi was dead, a cafe some 5 km away still had wifi so we opted to go there for a coffee, on opening our email we had other pressing stuff to get sorted so once again ride reports went to the back of the line .... which is why you are reading this a week out instead of two - three days.

While at the cafe we met a couple from Turkey living in Costa Rica, Can wanted to know about riding in CA so we had a chat for an hour or so.

The weather had caved in so we set off back to the hostel getting a little wet on the way back, mum nature was leasing hell fury on the Volcan with flashes of lightning lighting up the sky like a football stadium at night, spectacular to say the least.

Back safely at the hostel we had just ordered tea, there was an epic flash of lightning followed by a heart stopping thump of thunder, the lights went bright then dead then came back on at about 1/4 strength for 5 minutes then dead, total dark, total silence and total defiance, the bar staff grabbed torches, cellphones, candles and anything that would glow in the dark.

I made it back to our room, grabbed out sonim phone with a big LED light on it and our headtorch which was freshly charged luckily.

As tea was being cooked on gas it was still all go so we had tea with a candle and my headtorch in the restaurant so that was something new.:rofl

Looking out across the island was spooky with not a light to be seen, it was an early night which was needed anyway.

Our final morning arrives after an unusual night of lights on lights off, I switched all the lights off so that took care of that but both fans were left on in the hope the power comes back on, it did at one stage for around 20 seconds ... the fans started up WOHHOH ... bizt gone.:huh

So our final morning we packed up, the volcan had popped its head out of the cloud for us and unveiled a beauty of epic proportions so out with the camera it was, what a treat to see it so clear.:clap





Heading off to the ferry was funny, it seemed to be a “take your cattle and horses for a walk“ day so our plenty of time got skinnier quite quickly although we still had plenty of time.



A different view of the volcan was offered from here and the scars were unreal, the camera can not do it justice.

Parking in the middle of the airport runway ... as ya do





A closeup of the scars



Leaving the island we headed back to Granada as Ellen had left her shorts there, we also had some repairs to do to gloves, zips and walking polls so a fixit session again.

Slightly more relaxed fitting things in on this ferry



Maya tied up



Bye bye Ometepe

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Mate sorry about the man flu, excruciating pain beyond belief (worse than child birth I have heard) requiring naked nurses and bourbon

Gotta smack those Auckaloafans when you can

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

lamps.
Sometimes in NZ, we Aucklanders stroll out at night, and stare down into the Southern Territories, South of the Bombay Hills.
We hear the lowing of cattle, and see the fitful guttering of moss and lambfat lamps.
And sometimes, if the wind is just right, we smell the turnips boiled by the serfs as their staple diet......

And then finish our canapes and chardonay, and chat .......

Rob

Argh another one gazing down to where they wonna be, tell ya what Rob since we are mates, I will put in a good word at customs and immigration for you then you can grab your passport and come down to New Zealand from Auckland

Seriously, I enjoy Auckland and I even have friends there that are human, great cafe scene and above Auckland at Tane Mahuta tree is spectacular, we will come up again just to visit.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Put the cat among the pigeons there,thought Wellington would be more of an issue to you kiwi's?

San Augustin

Leaving the Finca was slippery after some heavy rain during the night and the puddles had grown big...none the least we made it out to the main road with only a few wobbles in the stodgy stuff :clap

Encountering the usual roadworks stops and a heap of trucks was the norm when on main tar roads and today was no exception but it was a smooth run through beautiful farms lands.

Arriving with a bloody barb from a barb wire fence stuck into the tyre we carefully examined it before puling it out, I must be the luckiest guy alive as it has chosen a deep knobbly and had gone in sideways .... WOH HOH escaped!!:clap





We clocked in and took in town as we had arrived with plenty of time, no landslides or epic accidents today ...boring :rofl.

We had planned to look at the archeological sites which San Agustin is known for, we opted to do a “jeep” tour which meant we didn’t have to faf around with our gear, it also came with a bonus parque pass for Ellen which made it more attractive and we got to see some extra shit on the tour.... our rig a clapped out Isuzu Trooper POS that rattled and clunked badly ... but it worked.

The hotel owner said part of the road was EXTREMELY dangerous and no good on the motos ..... pift turns out to be a great sales tactic, so we showed him what we had been riding ..... it was funny, nonetheless we wanted a hassle free day where I could sit back and enjoy too :deal.



This fella is 7 metres high





All in all a great day was had, I think we have seen every tomb in the district, I was waiting for Lara Croft to pop out but she never did (I had the camera on boobie mode too), I think she was at lunch or something.

There is the highest waterfall in Colombia there, it is also the second highest in South America at 400 meters high, Angel falls in Venezuela in numero uno although not much rain meant our view of the falls was minimal.



Another claim to fame in the Magdalena River which narrows to just 2 meters wide at one point, it is however 10 meters deep, the bigger thing it is Colombia’s largest largest river and travel south to north 1528 km so nearly 1000 miles into the Caribean sea.





So for those who know what sort of rains Colombia gets you can understand to size of the monster.

We also met Dave, an Ozzie on a Wee Strom travelling north so chats about bike, travel etc again WOH HOH, his bike with Maya



Destination Cali next to the famous Hotel Casa Blanca run by Mike.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

The wee strom seams to becoming a very popular bike quite a few at the HUBB meeting in Queensland.How many times did you bring up underarm bowling?hahaha.Nice shots as always.

Sold that bloody house yet

Yeah Weestrom is a great touring option but just not quite there at least for us who venture a little further into the sticks, we would have pummeled the bashplate, oil filter and headers to pieces by now as they sit just a little low.

Mayas tummy has some good rashes now from angry rocks

Underarm bowling .... that is like asking the Germans about the war ...he seemed like a nice guy so I didn't wonna beat em up

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Having had my rock and tomb input more than satisfied we set off on the back road up and over the national park, some said their was no road and some said too dangerous so it immediately took our interest

This is the road for those interested



Not only was it a heap shorter but it was so beautiful and was the closest thing to riding the Milford road in New Zealand :clap

The local Police were leaving to do their thing too so they all took off past us like a shower of shit two up on 250s and hangin it out around the corners ... the boyz were havin fun



Their race finished as they lined up to do their daily stuff



Much like a lot of roads here it started on tarnac then to shingle but the surface was reasonable although rough in places, nearing mid point at the top at just uunder 3300 meters there was a 10 km stretch of new concrete which was a treat, midway along this part was the military checking every vehicle (not that there were many), they stopped us just for a chat with much interest in Maya but only curious as to the orange alien





It started getting cold and ominous black clouds were looming and it wasn't too long before they caved in, the road surface was clay as well so we dropped our pace before we dropped the bike.



Managing to keep the team upright the rain chased others and left us a damp road this being a bonus for no dust until we dropped down to about 2500 meters then back to normal





Over the changing heights the moonscape around us changed offering all sorts, again we stopped just to take it in (and have a leak) :rofl



Making it through to Popayan without getting killed was good (or I could not do this writeup) and it was hot as, a quick bite and onward to Cali and a tarseal cowboy blast up the pan-am .....something we try and avoid like the plague ormally but the road condition was great so it made for a relaxing hoon up the main drag



Into Cali to Casa Blanca with Mrs.Garmin taking us to the door sucessfully, so nice to have prearranged accomodation rather than having to hunt it down

Mike had very kindly taken delivery of a pair of replacement boots and our new fuel pump at his Motolombia office which was bloody good, thanks mate really appreciated that.

Next mission was to swap over the fuel pump, should 3/4 hours work b u t the replacement was totally different meaning new brackets and hoses etc and some fabrication work needed

Again Mike to the rescue and he pointed us down the street to a laced called Astrurias and the owner Jorge who let me build some brackets, also did a couple of trips to the hardware store to get clamps etc



Sorry for the shit photos but you get the picture



The result



Mission complete we were ready to ride, because I blew 3/4 day in Jorges man cave and talked with some of his mates and customers we stayed another night at the casa.

We meet Alain as well who is a wealth of knowledge and has many contacts in the motocircles throughout south america

We first got our atention caught looking at his bike seeing Gus and Geoffs sticker as well as Dan and Saras so immediately we had a comnnection.....their stickers now joined by TMK



Alain, Ellen and Jorge and the sticker window



Prior to this we had been contacted by another Jorge, a couchsurfer in the moto community in Cali so he and his friend came and visited us at the casa which was cool, he invited us to have lunch with his family the next day and to stay the night

Plan A was one night in Cali, Plan B redo fuel pump so one more night, Plan C stick around a little longer ...... why not .... no plans, no prob :clap

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

"mentioned the war once think i got away with it"
Nice little bit of fabrication on the fuel pump ,a weakness on africa Twins and Varadero's too.
Looks like a beautiful city you are now in.
And NO i'm still the owner of the house.we need the sentiment to change and people to start spending again.

13 km, that is all the tarseal we got from Caraz then back into it, rough, gravel, mud, deep shingle etc.....perfect :clap

Destination Chacas we proceeded up to the park entry gates, this time $10 Soles each, this time the road up to the lakes was maintained and very nice, this was short lived tho and turned very rough very quickly.

Park entry



Joining the crew



New Zealand, here we are again, huge glacial cut valleys with daunting vertical faces steering at us with an unforgiving smile.





The lake at the first crest



Cool trees previewing the icy clay laden waters



Once past the lake we hit the zig zag .... awesome, the climb in front of us and taking us to the base of a glacier then zig zagging up and up, getting rougher and narrower, at 4000 meters we adjusted the fuel screws in as Maya was losing it, at 4400 meters we took the fuel screws in even further as it was difficult riding the tight switch backs with little power and trying to accelerate, this made a huge difference and she starting running much much better.



Adjusting the fuel screws at 4400 meters (14500ft)



Part of the road



Lakes in the distance we had past earlier



Sorry for the washed out colours but the poor ol camera was struggling with the glare from the snow etc.

Lunch, open air cafe, not much coffee but c h e c k o u t t h e v i e w :clap



A reflection of our past



Topping out at 4710 meters we were pleased to hit the summit and started heading down as oxygen is thinner here so wrestling Maya in and out of big rocks, switchbacks etc with our gear was a mission.

The crest and the monster long downhill, just as awful on this side :rofl, this was at 4710 meters (15500 ft)



Further down the valley the day got warmer and slightly easier although some of the villages we rode through had had heavy rain causing muddy boggy ‘tracks” in the towns which proved interesting.







Between the elevational changes and the amount of gnarly gravel roads we had ridden the last few days it was starting to catch up on me, 3/4 the way down to our finish line I had to stop for a drink, breather, stretch and a few toffees for a sugar boost.

Unexpected we were greeted for the last 6 km to Chaca by tarseal sent by god, it was smooth and beautiful and a seriously welcome sight after thumping around in the sticks.

Yeah a nothing photo other than the welcoming road :clap



Chacas, cool wee town with no wifi ... perfect, we decided to take a much needed rest day, do a small walk and catch up on some writing etc.

The timing of the thunder storm coming, we got in with good time, Chacas main square (plaza) donkeys and all.



A local lady selling baskets, she was very nice, in fact Chacas now holds the title for the most friendly town so far in Peru, the people were smiling and very welcoming which made us feel very homely.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Hi Andi and Ellen,

Fantastic pics and journal. Thanks for taking the time, I know on my recent round Oz trip, it's often easier to keep going than to stop and get those shots, and for each shot taken, there are 100 missed!

I'm following in your footsteps soon, just organising flights for me and the bike from OZ to LA before heading into Mexico. I'll scour your earlier posts for route ideas!!

Happy Travels

PN

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When you come to a fork in the road…take it!

BLOG: paulnomad.blogspot.com.au

FaceBook: www.facebook.com/PaulNomadRTW

Heya Paul

You are welcome and I envy you at the start ..... the excitement and thrill is great and only gets better!!

PMed you with info and stuff, just sing out if you want more info or have a question.

Then, let us know we you are into it so we can follow you.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

The day after yesterday ... tired. :huh

Welcomed in by Tobys amigos and friends (at 1.30 am) we enjoyed Pucallpa very much which is seated on the Amazon and this my friends is one massive mofo of a river, bearing in mind we are ONLY at the headwaters or beginning....its gota go right across the island before hitting the sea, the Amazon is 200 km at the mouth!!!.

Our awesome hosts Hugo and Meche



The river ... or at least a very small part of it



We were taken out for lunch to a very nice local place, as they had us as guests at their beautiful home we covered for lunch, we were then taken to the lake house for a relaxing afternoon overlooking the water which was just spiffing after our previous big day out.:clap



The lake



Toby and I relaxing on the swing chairs



Maya also got a new belly full of Belray full syn oil, I did this with the help of my assistant who was a 13 year old boy eager to help. :clap

Two drain bungs, 2 magnets, three filters later his eyes were bulging at the seemingly endless pile of “stuff‘ compared to the simple motos he was used to, all the same he was into it. ... (like this fella -> :eek1)

We developed a crowd of about 15 onlookers which was cool, one fello even talked partly english, very nice guy.

With my KTM apprentice at hand it wasn’t too long and we had Maya back together and filled her with fresh Belray Blood, my apprentice had the honours of starting Maya ... the shock horror look on his face with the initial cam tensioner rattle while filling was funny. :eek1 :eek1

With her going quiet in about 1.5 seconds his face lit up with a grin of accomplishment (like this fella -> ) , then his reward, with Maya up on 4 bars I said to him twist the throttle, this was met with HUGE enthusiasm, a coupla small flicks his hand was shaking.

With approval to give her a big flick the gathered crowd got bigger, a quick bounce from the top end of revs saw a large blue flame shoot out about 300 mm, this set the new level of excitement and laughter, by this time cellphones were out and vids were being made.

Who would think an oil change could generate such a crowd and create so much laughter and fun.... but there you have it.:clap

Want a moto taxi, there is one or two around so they can be found :rofl



We also visited the KTM dealership to get some rear disc pads, again Maya bought the people out of the shop to take photos, even the security guard was in on it :lol3, I was lucky enough to get my photo taken with the hot chicas while Toby talked business, I felt guilty tho cos my T shirt stunk however this almost added to the foreigner adventure biker with a dirty 950 moto grande, so kinda cool in a weird sense. :rofl

World records, this man is into them and has set them, Richard is his name, really neat guy and inspirational with him accomplishments and upcoming attempts



Time to head back to Huanuco we hit the road with ominous clouds watching us from a distance.

We fueled up on the cheap petrol, Maya full with 38 liters on board and cruising one up and no house and contents she did 5.3 liters / 100 km which gives us a theoretical range of 695 km ... not to bad.:clap

Given Maya was seriously dirty from the previous days shenanigans of bog holes etc the rain was welcome .... then in true Amazon style it just caved in seeing us drop to first gear in places from serious lack of visibility.... talk about a water blasting!!!

Stopping in the gorge on the way back we saw what we had missed at midnight on the way through, it was raining lightly when we arrived then really set in while we were there so the weather was chasing us.



See the truck at the bottom, see the size of the waterfall!!



Sorry for the outa focus but rain on the lens ... excuse for a bad photo



The rest of the ride was pretty uneventful, even when we came back upon the washed out bridge the digger was there cleaning up and it bared no resemblance of the mayhem we encountered that night.



Two young fellas were there “helping” so Toby gave them some bread each which lit up their faces.

The last POI you won't find on Garmin



Home James ... from there easy as apart from seemingly every truck in Peru on the road that night.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere