Jurgen sent us down the old road which was very entertaining and great fun, virtually no traffic at all, in the distance it was started turning black, then very black and it started to rain so a quick stop to swing on the wet gear.





Well ... if we only knew what we were in for, as luck would have it we cleared the old road clay section prior the lite rain, entering into Managua all fury was let loose on us as mum nature threw her toys out of the cot.

We got torrential rain like I have never seen in my life before and the road turned into a creek then a river with pressure waves rolling down it.



At one point we were riding down the street/river and the water was over the front exhaust head pipe and coming up the tank, the front of our fuel tank is about 600 mm off the ground so we were in quite a torrent of water, even Ellens boots were under on her passenger pegs....no problem with overheating!!

This is a road!!!, note we are riding on the left hand side of the double lane as the right hand side would be a lot deeper due to road camber.:eek1



Shabby photo but you can see the front of the tank and the front exhaust header pipe under water



Once we had gotten through the shower we arrived at Aarons place (TeeVee on ADV) as he had kindly taken delivery of the pinlock inserts and bought them down for us with with him ... onya dude, really appreciate that!!!

Aaron had organised a hotel for us only a block away from his place, he also had some locals come around for a big bar b q and grogs, some nice steaks, more Rum and yet again good times a true entertainer.

Ellen and Aarons good lady



Sunday morning was the family day out to Laguna Apoyo, we were invited which was very nice, Aaron organised a large Toyota van and we all piled into that with the chilly bins, fud and I say most of a gazebo...which became apparent.

The start of the day was wet ... who woulda thought in rainy season!!!:rofl



Arriving at the lake it was raining pretty well, Aaron pulled out the gazebo to find that the cover was back at the house.... FAIL ...Aaron was gutted and took it hard, we said well hell we were not worried and we will go for a 5 minute swim while we were there anyway given the effort to get there.

Down to the lake



Aaron and his good lady





Two hours later we got out of the water and the rain had all but stopped so the bar b q was on again WOH HOH .... sans gazebo ... bonus ... one less thing to pack up!!!





Girls playing to the camera ... great kids!!!



Good fud, good rum, good friends, good times!!!

That evening we were supposed to go to Salcars but with the Nicaraguan festivities we didn’t leave the lake until after dark so by the time we arrived back in town we decided to stay at Aarons rather than ride at night....more rum

The following day we headed off to Salcars, I had a saw throat so we decided just to relax a little and take it easy.

Arriving at Casa Salvador



We spent two nights there taking in some local sites during the day and and relaxing at night, apparently we rode pretty close to some palace and the military wanted out passports etc as they wanted to know what two strange lookin people were doing riding a large alien......smiles, passports, chats, no worries bro, Kiwis havin fun.

A local lake



Time for a cold coke



Diving off the main drag we found some nice coloured trees



Maya parked with the little fellas



Salavdor runs Nicanotoadv and utilizes Yamahas and and F650, for anyone wanting to ride Nicaragua and there are dozens of reasons why to ride there the Salvador can set you up with a lite weight bike that is perfect for exploring Nicaragua.

Although I love the KTM 950 I would choose a 125 or 250 over it for Central America due to the diverse nature of the terrain, shingle roads and sandy volcanic back roads.

So thank you very much for hosting us Salvador, you have a beautiful home in a cool place.

Reyna, Salvadors mum relaxing outside, very warm and welcoming to say the least.



This is Salvadors contact, he can sort your needs out on Managua no problem or if you are looking for a rental ride he has a heap to choose from.

Nicaragua Motorcycle Adventures — Nicaragua motorcycle rentals and motorcycle tours

Next destination was Granada.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

An uneventful ride once out of central Managua then a short open road trip to Granada, arriving there it was hot and sticky, Ellen set to looking for a place to stay, seems to be popular place with a lot of hotels and hostel booked out.

We finally found a place that was a reasonable cost and had a swimming pool so Ellen was sold on that.



Getting Maya into the lobby was tight with about 5 -10 mm on each side of the cases, there was also a swarm of little bikes in reception too so there was some shuffling done.

The local market was in full swing and close by so we took my broken boot for a repair job and I bought a new shoelace for my hat as it had decayed and died, also my gruds are 15 months of getting a thrashing were getting thin so both Ellen and I bought two new ones each with the imminent biff out of the old one close.

One of the hostel owners with an employee



Ganada cento is very nice and much like Antigua, Guatemala



The Tree House

Leaving Granada we only travelled 9 km to our next destination the Poste Rojo (Red Post Hostel) otherwise known as the treehouse.

We found our way there and took the final 200 meter climb amidst a ball of sweat in riding gear.

We just got in and sorted and the regular afternoon thunderstorms chased us under cover, the howler monkeys sitting in the trees not thinking much of their afternoon wash all went quiet for a while, we have about 8 -10 of them in the trees above us.

For a small monkey they can make a lot of noise.

The access road in



The bar



Some signage



We met a Kiwi girl Lou at the hostel, although from Auckland which is not part of New Zealand she almost seemed ok, it was really cool to hear some Kiwi lingo and speak Kiwi lingo without get a blank look back at us.



The house


Sunset



The following day was our assault on Volcan Mombacho, Lou (nicknamed Kiwi) was heading to Masaya so we all walked together to her bus then we left to the Volcan, while walking into a tienda (corner store) a dog came running out and went for me, I had already prepped my sticks for the big walk so as quick as a flash I managed to swipe the dog clean under the chin and judging by the sound it made and the squeal that followed he was not impressed and backed off immediately which I was happy about to be honest, didn’t fancy a rabies trip to the docs .

Narrowly avoiding dog issues it was about 6 km to the top of the Volcan and the top section is very steep and quite a grunt so we both were dripping wet only half way up.



The walk around the top was the easy bit and like all of Centro America there was fud available at the top so we refueled us and continued, unfortunately with the cloud the views were somewhat restricted but that is the way it is.

It was windy at the view point



Stunning scenery in the rain forest



A rock crevase



Coming down I dreaded the long clunk down, we managed to score a ride down on the back of a ute gratis, they charge $15 US for a ride up and back so it should have cost us $7.50 each ... we spent that on Rum that night!!

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Guy's as i'm home with the man flu ,really enjoyed catching up again with your travels,Only a kiwi would get the Auckland jibe,Wonderful story /photo's as always.

Greetings from Antarctica!

It's great to see your ride report covering many of the areas that I experienced in 2009.

I loved Granada and other areas in Nicaragua. Enjoy.

Perhaps we'll run into each other in South America in October/November timeframe.

i'm bouldergeek on ADV, too.

Mate sorry about the man flu, excruciating pain beyond belief (worse than child birth I have heard) requiring naked nurses and bourbon

Gotta smack those Auckaloafans when you can

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Absolutely a catch up .... Antarctica you say ... hmmmm how did you get there, a dream, ambition and want of ours .... will have a chat to you about that if we may!

Like you we have been experiencing Nicaraguas finest, this is a a great place

We cross Drain with Ludwig on 12th August then sorta south from there, let keep in touch.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

In the middle of lake Nicaragua, the lake is more like a sea because of its size.

This is where we went



We caught the ferry just in time, an anxious local was busting his nuts to get us on the boat for no real reason and creating some confusion with the loading guys which was a little frustrating, he said we have to pay him $10 US .... we say what for? loading ...HA nup, then it went down to $5 then $1, with the confusion and stuffing around he caused I should have got $1 from him....HELPERS are NOT helpers.

Once we ignored him and loaded with the guys organising things everything went smooth, we were second to last on so Maya was right at the ramp, the cars were packed on as tight as sardines in a can but it all worked.





Reaching the island we headed off to our recommended accommodation, arriving there was a 500 meter climb to the hostel with our moto and gear being left down by the road ... wrong, that ain’t gonna happen, too hot to walk up with all the clobber and no way were leaving Maya down by the street to who knows what.

We carried on and found another place, not to bad, secure parking, clean room shared with two Canadians so we checked in stayed there for the two nights, given we had plenty of time left we took the luggage of and circumnavigated one end of the island which is formed by two Volcans, most of the road is unpaved and rough in places with some mud thrown in so an interesting ride.



The being loaded with watermelons, we had to squeeze around the outside



The road was narrow in places and just wide enough for the trucks



Only a few km before the hostel and just after we hit pavement again we stopped at a small cafe and had a great coffee and relax...then back to the hostel to get cleaned up for tea.



On our return we had some butterflies playing to the camera, Ellen managed to get a closeup



Day 2, time to check out the other side and circumnavigate the second volcano, the first part of the cobbled road is great condition then it turns into shingle and rock again, we followed the main cobbled section to the end to find we had to ride up a creek bed for 1km before getting back on to the main dirt road.







Ellen hoped off in a few places to help me out which was great, less work to handle the mighty Mayan.



Once back on the main dirt road it was plain sailing for the most other than some rocky lumpy sections but by all account way smoother than the previous day.

We stopped at Altagracia for some lunch, in the town centro there is a cool volcano model of Ometepe Island



We then carried on back to the hostel to get swimming gear and head back to the natural pools, we swam for a while and relaxed.



We headed back to the hostel as I wanted to get some ride reports out however the wifi was dead, a cafe some 5 km away still had wifi so we opted to go there for a coffee, on opening our email we had other pressing stuff to get sorted so once again ride reports went to the back of the line .... which is why you are reading this a week out instead of two - three days.

While at the cafe we met a couple from Turkey living in Costa Rica, Can wanted to know about riding in CA so we had a chat for an hour or so.

The weather had caved in so we set off back to the hostel getting a little wet on the way back, mum nature was leasing hell fury on the Volcan with flashes of lightning lighting up the sky like a football stadium at night, spectacular to say the least.

Back safely at the hostel we had just ordered tea, there was an epic flash of lightning followed by a heart stopping thump of thunder, the lights went bright then dead then came back on at about 1/4 strength for 5 minutes then dead, total dark, total silence and total defiance, the bar staff grabbed torches, cellphones, candles and anything that would glow in the dark.

I made it back to our room, grabbed out sonim phone with a big LED light on it and our headtorch which was freshly charged luckily.

As tea was being cooked on gas it was still all go so we had tea with a candle and my headtorch in the restaurant so that was something new.:rofl

Looking out across the island was spooky with not a light to be seen, it was an early night which was needed anyway.

Our final morning arrives after an unusual night of lights on lights off, I switched all the lights off so that took care of that but both fans were left on in the hope the power comes back on, it did at one stage for around 20 seconds ... the fans started up WOHHOH ... bizt gone.:huh

So our final morning we packed up, the volcan had popped its head out of the cloud for us and unveiled a beauty of epic proportions so out with the camera it was, what a treat to see it so clear.:clap





Heading off to the ferry was funny, it seemed to be a “take your cattle and horses for a walk“ day so our plenty of time got skinnier quite quickly although we still had plenty of time.



A different view of the volcan was offered from here and the scars were unreal, the camera can not do it justice.

Parking in the middle of the airport runway ... as ya do





A closeup of the scars



Leaving the island we headed back to Granada as Ellen had left her shorts there, we also had some repairs to do to gloves, zips and walking polls so a fixit session again.

Slightly more relaxed fitting things in on this ferry



Maya tied up



Bye bye Ometepe

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Getting a real geographical education,carry on,mostly over man flu,might even get in a ride tomorrow.

lamps.
Sometimes in NZ, we Aucklanders stroll out at night, and stare down into the Southern Territories, South of the Bombay Hills.
We hear the lowing of cattle, and see the fitful guttering of moss and lambfat lamps.
And sometimes, if the wind is just right, we smell the turnips boiled by the serfs as their staple diet......

And then finish our canapes and chardonay, and chat .......

Rob

Good to hear you are out of intensive care mate ... it was close

Good therapy to twist the grip. ... best medicine around!

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Argh another one gazing down to where they wonna be, tell ya what Rob since we are mates, I will put in a good word at customs and immigration for you then you can grab your passport and come down to New Zealand from Auckland

Seriously, I enjoy Auckland and I even have friends there that are human, great cafe scene and above Auckland at Tane Mahuta tree is spectacular, we will come up again just to visit.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Put the cat among the pigeons there,thought Wellington would be more of an issue to you kiwi's?

... nar just ribbing him cos we can ... say with you guys in OZ ... our brothers!!

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

With Ellen leaving her only shorts at the tree house we headed back to Granada.

Back one step, on the way down to the island I noticed a Police check point and it was on my mind when heading back to Granada, strategically I let a local go past in an old bomb of a car and we putted along behind him for about 5 minutes before coming upon the Police check point, giving him about a 100 meter lead and sure enough the Police flag him down and we sail through ..... WOH HOH...I love it when a plan comes together.

We picked up Ellens shorts from the treehouse, thanks Damon it was big help getting those back, we then headed onwards to Granada staying at a hotel/hostel that was owned by an amigo from the place on the island, great place, quiet, secure parking for the moto and right in the market area to get stuff fixed.

My walking poles got nailed back together, my gloves got patches put on them and my new rain jacket got a new zipper as that broke.

We bought some street fud totaling 80 C which is about $3.20 for both of us and it was too much to be honest, we also bought a large watermelon for 30 C which is about $1.20 so it was a kings and queens banquet night again.

We woke to a hell hot sunny day, I picked up my gloves which had been repaired wrong and we started to pack up, I went to put SPOT on Maya and the retainer clip just snapped off in my hand, looks like the sun had made it brittle.

Leaving Granada we headed back down the CA1 Pan Am very weary of Police and associated troubles that go with it again sneaking through unscathed with some tactical allowing of overtaking.

Our next destination was Playa Majagual were Moderndaydrifter (from ADV), Daniel and his good lady Megan run the Castaway hostel.

The road was good but windy which it seems to be as there are lots of wind turbines along the route.



On leaving Rivas we got stuck behind buses and trucks, a local on a 250 Honda overtook us and went around the centre island, seeing him do that we followed suit, we only just pulled back in and the Police came head on, we got filthy looks but they carried on luckily, I also stepped it up to get to our turnoff in case they radioed ahead.

It is the only thing frustrating about Nicaragua is the trucks can dordle along at 30 - 40 km / hr in and 80 posted area and no one is allowed to pass on the solid yellow line which there is a LOT of, but the trucks won’t pull aside to let anyone through either.

The rest of the trip was uneventful and we found our way easily to Daniels place.

These are the coordinates for anyone running a GPS ... too easy.



We got set up in our room, beach front literally, nothing between us and the ocean other than the beach, what a cool location and a perfect adventure rider quiet hideaway and rest spot.

The surf was up with lot of surfers out, just not right here



The weather was set for a great sunset and we were not let down at all, the colours on the beach were amazing and vibrant.



Beach graffiti





The early evening colours were very cool with shades and shadows transforming your view



A small boat tied up



Later on that evening we had a good thunder storm with heavy rain so we managed to refill all our water bottles with rainwater off the roof ... perfecto.

The following day was rest and relaxing, walk along the beach and some net stuff, again I wanted to get a ride report out, Ellen did hers first, I just started and the internet died, seems to be the way for me at the moment.

When we went to leave from Ometepe the SPOT mount died so that wa on my list to fix so I Kiwied it

I have remade the new Kiwi hold it using the electrical tester heated on a gas stove to make holes (we have no drill) for the new and improved strap courtesy of the china walking stick fix the previous day.

Auwh man....



Just a simple fix to melt the plastic outa the way for a new ring



Cut two new slots by melting the plastic outa the for the strap



Put the new strap in



Put the spot back in ......sweetas bro!!...c h o i c e eh. :clap



Now this is under strick international patent so it is a secret and I am only telling you guys :rofl

I managed to snap some shots of local pussy too .... though they didn’t seem impressed.



(sorry Mike no bunnies):evil

Later that afternoon we took a quick hike to the peninsula top that overlooks Daniel bay, this my friend is what he made us put up with.

The front of Daniels place







Now Daniel is offering free camping for ADVers for a couple of days, if you want a room as we did you pay for that (cos it is his livelyhood) but you get the room and a brotherly luv ADV rate and believe me all accommodation around the area is reasonably expensive so Daniel is really looking after the RTW/ADV community.

While there an overland vehicle turned up, nice machine it is too.



While relaxing a local was sitting in a tree just watching on, ... I think he needs a shave.



Ellen made a coffee in the morning, the coffee machine exploded ... literally, no one was hurt but yeah



I keep telling Ellen to use water like eveyone else rather than petrol :rofl

Saying goodbye to Daniel we set off for Costa Rica

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Leaving Playa Majagual the road was wet and very slippery, there was a 10 mm (3/8 inch for you imperialists ) on top of hard pack wet clay so it was take it easy time till we hit the tar again or at least dryer roads.

Getting to San Juan Del Sur we headed out to the beach for a quick look and the supermarket to stock up on fud and rum.

Once this part of our mission was complete we headed off toward the Costa Rican border where we were swamped with helpers in an instant so we politely rode through them to the real guys who couldn’t be bothered helping so we know we had the right guys.

Passports, TVIP, smiles and few larfs and they all changed in an instant, one guy tried cleaning the rego plate and got dirty hands so gave up and took our word for it. :rofl

Clocking out was easy for us but the TVIP was the highest and longest level of bollix anywhere in Central America, so when we got to the last point of exit we had to go back and get and 100 more stamps and signatures etc .... it was barmy.



After all the signoffs NOT one actually check our Vin or plate and we headed back to the exit with our now heavily gratified TVIP and they were all happy. :clap

Entering Costa Rica the line was probably 100 plus people long and we thought ouwh no but they had all booths going and were very efficient so Ellen was through in about 20 minutes while Maya and I sat in the car park.

Then the TVIP again, Ellen had to go back and forth 0.5 km each way each time they wanted something as the buildings are far apart.

Nothing difficult just time consuming.

Our chance to get the graffiti stampartists a run for their money, Phil and Jaynes sticker already there.



Once all the formalities were complete off to destination Play Del Coco to meet up with Can again, with no street names or number is makes things interesting so we did do a little round and round asking and narrowing it in before getting there but he has a house on the beach and it is in a stunning location.

We met Can and his good lady at Ometepe island in Nicaragua after headed spotted Maya and we had a chat about motos and trips.

So we stayed two nights there relaxing taking the place in, again chatting about bikes, gear, travel etc so that was great, CAn also has a kayak and allowed us to take it out onto the sea, most excellent and really enjoyable.

Play Del Coco is an awesome wee spot. one of many beautiful beaches in Costa Rica.

Can lent us his Kayak for a hoon which was cool.





Sunset from Cans place



Stunning orange colours come out right at the last minute, Ellen in the water swimming



A thunder and lightning storm was brewing ... I tried to catch the lightning but it was way too fast.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere