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23 Jan 2014
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Pucallpa To Huanuco
The day after yesterday ... tired. :huh
Welcomed in by Tobys amigos and friends (at 1.30 am) we enjoyed Pucallpa very much which is seated on the Amazon and this my friends is one massive mofo of a river, bearing in mind we are ONLY at the headwaters or beginning....its gota go right across the island before hitting the sea, the Amazon is 200 km at the mouth!!!.
Our awesome hosts Hugo and Meche
The river ... or at least a very small part of it
We were taken out for lunch to a very nice local place, as they had us as guests at their beautiful home we covered for lunch, we were then taken to the lake house for a relaxing afternoon overlooking the water which was just spiffing after our previous big day out.:clap
The lake
Toby and I relaxing on the swing chairs
Maya also got a new belly full of Belray full syn oil, I did this with the help of my assistant who was a 13 year old boy eager to help. :clap
Two drain bungs, 2 magnets, three filters later his eyes were bulging at the seemingly endless pile of “stuff‘ compared to the simple motos he was used to, all the same he was into it. ... (like this fella -> :eek1)
We developed a crowd of about 15 onlookers which was cool, one fello even talked partly english, very nice guy.
With my KTM apprentice at hand it wasn’t too long and we had Maya back together and filled her with fresh Belray Blood, my apprentice had the honours of starting Maya ... the shock horror look on his face with the initial cam tensioner rattle while filling was funny. :eek1 :eek1
With her going quiet in about 1.5 seconds his face lit up with a grin of accomplishment (like this fella -> ) , then his reward, with Maya up on 4 bars I said to him twist the throttle, this was met with HUGE enthusiasm, a coupla small flicks his hand was shaking.
With approval to give her a big flick the gathered crowd got bigger, a quick bounce from the top end of revs saw a large blue flame shoot out about 300 mm, this set the new level of excitement and laughter, by this time cellphones were out and vids were being made.
Who would think an oil change could generate such a crowd and create so much laughter and fun.... but there you have it.:clap
Want a moto taxi, there is one or two around so they can be found :rofl
We also visited the KTM dealership to get some rear disc pads, again Maya bought the people out of the shop to take photos, even the security guard was in on it :lol3, I was lucky enough to get my photo taken with the hot chicas while Toby talked business, I felt guilty tho cos my T shirt stunk however this almost added to the foreigner adventure biker with a dirty 950 moto grande, so kinda cool in a weird sense. :rofl
World records, this man is into them and has set them, Richard is his name, really neat guy and inspirational with him accomplishments and upcoming attempts
Time to head back to Huanuco we hit the road with ominous clouds watching us from a distance.
We fueled up on the cheap petrol, Maya full with 38 liters on board and cruising one up and no house and contents she did 5.3 liters / 100 km which gives us a theoretical range of 695 km ... not to bad.:clap
Given Maya was seriously dirty from the previous days shenanigans of bog holes etc the rain was welcome .... then in true Amazon style it just caved in seeing us drop to first gear in places from serious lack of visibility.... talk about a water blasting!!!
Stopping in the gorge on the way back we saw what we had missed at midnight on the way through, it was raining lightly when we arrived then really set in while we were there so the weather was chasing us.
See the truck at the bottom, see the size of the waterfall!!
Sorry for the outa focus but rain on the lens ... excuse for a bad photo
The rest of the ride was pretty uneventful, even when we came back upon the washed out bridge the digger was there cleaning up and it bared no resemblance of the mayhem we encountered that night.
Two young fellas were there “helping” so Toby gave them some bread each which lit up their faces.
The last POI you won't find on Garmin
Home James ... from there easy as apart from seemingly every truck in Peru on the road that night.
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23 Jan 2014
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Huanuco - Toby And Saras
The Central "Zona Do It"
Back safely at Toby and Saras Ellen had to get some dental work done and I had been putting off some work on Maya until we had the right place and services, Huanuco is it.:clap
The town square
The view from opposite their home, see the hill picture on their B&B site
I wanted to get the Dr Bean board into our fuel pump, redo the mudflap which had been attacked and torn, clean out indicators from mud (the insides), clean air filters etc so just a big tidy up round.
The board was easy done however the guy did a less than ideal job on one soldered joint so we got that sorted the following morning, all good.
For a while I have been wanting to fit a bigger foot plate on the side stand and this was also accomplished $6 Soles (about $2 dollars), my exhaust baffle I had extended too $5 Soles (about $1.70 dollars), all in all my entire list of goodies to sort was sorted with a little local help from Toby.
Ellen and Sara did the icecream thing ... dunno how I missed this out :huh
A free Plug Here,
Now Toby and Sara are volunteer workers and spend much of their time helping the community for no gain for themselves other than satisfaction so our hat is off to them big time.:clap
Toby runs Around The Block moto tours and has a selection of machines from 250 to 650, both touring capable with KLR650s and offroad capable with the XR250s and XR650L .
We stayed at their B&B for a week and enjoyed ourselves although I was completely set up on a board game coming last .... hmmmm :lol3
Tobys site is
Moto Tours - adventure motorcycle tours in Peru and all South America
...and their B&B is
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1835398?s=9669
Wonna find em on your GPS, this will take you to the front door
We had hearty breakfasts, comfy bed, REAL hot water, wifi that is probably the fastest we have had in Peru, that was the paid part.
The non paid part is local knowledge from Toby and Sara, stuff you don’t get on GPS and maps.
With Tobys local knowledge we got Maya sorted (as noted above) and Ellen got her dental work done, done well and very economical.
Now Huanuco itself it not a total tourist town but has great shops and services, it is also close to Lima if you are flying in to start a trip or if you are lucky enough to be RTWing their place is a great stop over to get parts ordered etc, Toby can source stuff as he spent most of his childhood growing up in Peru and knows the locale, also speaking fluently in the local tongue cannot be matched for getting stuff sorted and the "not what ya know but who ya know" plays a huge part.
Huanuco is also a great gateway to the Amazonas to the east, the Huascaran National Park just north and of course south to Cusco and Machu Picchu so pretty well placed centrally, all in all for RTW travellers they have a great place stop, sort out and breath, sort our any moto stuff with a lock up garage and undercover place to work...ouwh and they are just good honest people helping ADVers and Hubbers alike.
I have just realized that all "us" photos are on their camera, so will have to get these .. that is an epic fail on our part!! :evil
Leaving Huanuco we headed off again with good advice from Toby (well sorta ... it snowed:rofl), onto harass some other unsuspecting people
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23 Jan 2014
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Saying goodbye we hit the road south, the day was stunning and warm, total tar so a relaxing ride apart from dodging the usual Peruvians who like our lane better than theirs.
For the most of it getting up onto the plato the twisting tar gave us a nice rhythmic ride winding our way up the valley.
Stopping at a waterfall we layered up a bit as we were at 4000 meters and just cool enough, across the road was a another cool waterfall .. well at least half a waterfall anyway with the water pouring out half way down the cliff, something we had not seen before.
Cresting the plato there were very ominous looking clouds, being right on lunchtime we fooded up on hot tucker preparing for some rain, wet gear on too in advance.
A small mining town
As we approached the bank of angry clouds there was a huge flash and the big fella took our photo followed by a large bang/crack ... we knew then it was gonna get ugly.
See to the left pf the picture Ellen just caught the lightening :clap
Up ahead it appeared white but through my now wet visor I thought it was sandstone .... that would have been easier.
Hail, yeah, bouncing off everything every which way in all directions .... classic, at least it is dryer than rain.
The hail got heavier and heavier, the road was white with some wheel tracks creating a narrow safe-haven at least for a while.
A car was off the road and being pulled back on by a truck under the guidance of the police, one policeman looked at us like we were crazy .... I think he was right.
Our spot would not send any messages to the orange dot gods as the air was electric stifling any signals from spot, (we now have a straight line on our map) lightening was striking to our left and ahead of us giving us booms in stereo, this also meant that we would be riding into the stuff ahead.
Forced to first gear at one stage with about 50mm deep of hail on the road and no wheel tracks it was a game of lets try and stay upright, I won this game.
The storm veered right and our road veered left which was a welcome reprieve, however the hail then turned back to very heavy rain again, bike got another good wash.
We had visions of stopping in Junin but Junin sits at 4200 meters and it was bitterly cold, given it was only 1.30 we continued on with the last section to Tarma easy as just with lots of roadworks.
Small vid for fun :clap
Ice Ice Baby - YouTube
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25 Jan 2014
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G'day Andi and ellen, great photo's always .i think you were more charitable about the peruvian Drivers than i would have been.Glad you got through the ice /hail ok looks treacherous.YDF Noel
P.s some more lookers this week so here's hoping
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25 Jan 2014
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Never seens trees so red before. Grt pics. Really enjoying you travel like this.
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25 Jan 2014
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Wonderful pic in the warm waterfalls
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25 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis
Waterfalls ...common as rice in China :rofl
Our plan started as heading to Chachapoyas however meeting Oliver and his girlfriend by chance at the hostel he suggested some alternate ideas, being a local we took it on.
We hit the road at 6.00am to avoid upwards of 8 hours delay on the road due to massive roadworks, again great advice from the hostel dude saying get past the roadworks prior 7.00am when they start or it will take all day to cover about 60 km.
Riding through the roadworks and being wet the base binder they use it stuck to Maya like concrete, we wanted some good rain to help wash this stuff off but that did not eventuate despite ominous looking clouds, we did have treats further on tho where the road has some cool overhangs through the gorges.
We took a wrong turn ... ooops
This boat was gonna take us across the river but we decided against it wanting to keep Maya a little longer
We hoped this went somehwere .. in Peru we have found many surprises on the road
Old bridge new bridge
Cool rock into under cut rock
So, between paper maps and Mrs.Garmin we made it however Mrs.Garmin has us in a different place to where we are ... as do the paper maps......must be the Japanese earthquake eh.:huh
There is one Hostal here in the main plaza (only plaza) so we based ourselves there, you won’t know it is there unless someone tells you ... so here it is, the GPS coords and what you are looking for.
GPS coords
Cool wee tranquil town up at 2000 meters so easy to sleep and quiet, secure and enjoyable, no wifi tho.
As far as a quiet hangout it ticks the boxes well and we thank Oliver for the local information :clap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayjay
Wonderful pic in the warm water
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Sent from my GT-I9082 using Tapatalk
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27 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noel900r
G'day Andi and ellen, great photo's always .i think you were more charitable about the peruvian Drivers than i would have been.Glad you got through the ice /hail ok looks treacherous.YDF Noel
P.s some more lookers this week so here's hoping
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Heya Noel
Yeah Peruvians are a different breed of people when they get a steering wheel in front of them.
Good news on the punters mate, fingers crossed.
YDP
A
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27 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayjay
Never seens trees so red before. Grt pics. Really enjoying you travel like this.
Sent from my GT-I9082 using Tapatalk
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Heya Kayjay
Yes there are some amazing colours and creature in this part of the world.
Many thanks for your props.
Andi
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27 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayjay
Wonderful pic in the warm waterfalls
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Heya Kayjay
... they were NOT that warm
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27 Jan 2014
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Tarma - The Cave, Gruta Huagapo
A relaxing start as sleeping beauty stayed under covers till 9.00am :evil.
No rush, today was a local day to the caves and surrounding area.
Flinging the cases off Maya we set too only to find a massive market outside our front door, so people, please make way, there were stalls and stands everywhere, the only free bit of concrete was the footpath ... foothpath it is. :rofl
The caves are only 26 km from town and the dirt road takes you through small villages and up a valley, the caves sit at 3600 meters and the 5 minute walk to the caves seemed like a 5 hour trek.
A torch or headlight is essential, if not you can hire a guide who had a 1 candle power LED torch.
A guide and customer came in just as we got in too, so we all went in together, I had my LED lenser (made in USA and BLOODY awesome).
So here is a few photos to enjoy, not much to write about.
This waterfall greets you on arrival :clap
Caver extraordinaire
Ellen got a dirty bum sliding down one of the slopes
It is like the temple of doom with little bridges :rofl
The entrance from the inside out
Couple of llamas on the way back, you can sit on this fellas and get your photos taken, I still prefer KTM.:evil
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27 Jan 2014
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Tarma - Camino Inca (Inca Walking Trail)
Not as famous as Machu Picchu but a nice walk, to be honest you can ride probably 90% of it ... just a problem getting down the last 10% intact.
Just to give it some authenticity ....the old guy on the right gave us directions and we gave him two toffee lollies ....he liked them
In true form from the Peruvians who didn’t have a clue they guided us completely astray, Peruvians will never say they don’t know and they will always give you directions to somewhere.
The soil at this point was very red and very orange ....mineral rich of something.
There are a couple of crazy trees with S bends
There was few ruins along the way but to be honest without sounding like a bastid sometimes it is hard to tell the difference between ruins and someone house.
These are inhabited residence, no power, no running water, they are as genuinely old school as you can get.
The crest of the valley f i n a l l y ...with ominous clouds to go
Highlight of the day, an old man took a shine to Ellen and picked her some flowers which was duly thanked with a kiss ... he was not expecting that
Total surprise from him with Ellens reaction and thanking him, he was delighted despite the look on his face (which changed after this photo) and I know she made his day
This was our collectivo taxi that picked us up, there were 8 adults and 3 children in the car , just a small Toyota station wagon .. could easy squeeze another dozen in
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28 Jan 2014
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28 Jan 2014
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28 Jan 2014
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
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Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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