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Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #721  
Old 31 Mar 2014
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Santiago - Large As Life

Moto servicing, tire shredding, piss drinking, riding, coffee, new amigos.

Leaving Lorraines this is everything we had to look forward too, having been corresponding with Jaime for nearly a year on moto stuff we had organised to meet up.:clap

Taking the coastal road rather than the Ruta 5 mum nature was having an off day and provided a layer of fog stealing our views of the ocean, never mind can’t win em all.

Making our way into Santiago it progressively got hotter and the traffic thickened very quickly ...as it does in a city of 5 million people.

We were very lucky to be invited to stay at Jaimes brothers house which is close to the KTM servicing guys and Jaimes riding amigos, Jaime has a one bedroom apartment so bit tight there.

We rocked into town following Mrs.Garmins good advice who in this instance on this day was 100% correct.

With warm welcome and greetings we followed Jaime to our new home in Santiago, a quick trip to the supermarket and some nice food we cooked up some tea for Jaime and us, in the afternoon we went for a cruz to the main KTM shop lotsa orange goodies everywhere.



Oranges .. not really edible :evil



Having good services etc of a big city we soon had sushi seaweed in hand complimented by rum and wine..... yay.

Being a Sunday, the boys went for a ride, Martyn, Jaime and me, Martyn on his 990 Adventure R and Jaime on his 990 Adventure, me on our 950 SE, Orange it was.

High sun and a Kiwi squint and a stupid grin from Martyn .. looks kinda dodgy and it was



The three ladies ... a rose between two thorns :evil



Our tire had some life left and I did not wonna give anything back, a fist full of fun riding for three hours took care of that.... and yes that is canvas in the middle, prolly only 1000 left in this one Salvi :rofl



After match function was at Martyns home complete with Moto GP in Qatar on TV and serving on Peruvian food, great day out :clap

Maya, second hand, scrubby, stuffed tires, knackered chain and sprockets and black oil we took her to Claudios shop to get the monster round completed.

New shoes front and rear, new chain and sprockets, new oil, valve adjustment done, new rear shock from Alex at Konflict Motorsports, air filters cleaned and oiled, horn fixed and the bike cleaned, apart from that there was nothing to do. :eek1

Also while we were in town Geoff (Icerider on ADV) arrived in town, very nice guy, a wealth of knowledge and great stories of work as a Helicopter Pilot in the Faulklands, Geoff treated us to pic of the Faulklands and his "flying company car" ... WOW what a weapon, this thing carries 20 men plus cargo :clap

A real pleasure meeting you Geoff, catch up next time.

While Maya was at the health professionals getting a makeover we took in Santiago town, coffee with legs was recommended by a dodgy Colombian so we had to investigate .... nothing to see move along please ...well almost, while we took our work seriously we did enjoy a nice coffee.





With Maya serviced and sorted bike night was on and one of Jaimes friends on a txt message said “bring the Kiwis” .....so he did.

The mob we enjoyed the company of



We had a great night with the local lads with a mixture of bikes including Adventures, SE, Tenere, KLR, BMW 700 etc, great cross section with one interest .... takin shit about bikes!!!

Not a bad lineup of lusties



A huge thanks to Jaime, Martyn, Geoff and the local Santiaghoons for havings us around :clap
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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Last edited by Two Moto Kiwis; 29 Dec 2014 at 02:46.
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  #722  
Old 6 Apr 2014
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G'day ,nice to catch up ,good the bike is sorted ,shame about the rubbish in Peru ,this part of Queensland is bad for road side rubbish ,too ,have no clue what goes through such peoples minds.Any how carry on i enjoy your posts as always YDF Noel
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  #723  
Old 12 Apr 2014
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Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
G'day ,nice to catch up ,good the bike is sorted ,shame about the rubbish in Peru ,this part of Queensland is bad for road side rubbish ,too ,have no clue what goes through such peoples minds.Any how carry on i enjoy your posts as always YDF Noel
Heya Noel

Yeah that part of Peru is not good but there are plenty of other places the same too unfortunately.

Wee gap in the writing through lack of wifi but some more bedtime reading your way sir.

YDP Andi
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  #724  
Old 12 Apr 2014
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Santiago To Malarque To San Rafael

Having got our big service and things sorted we left Santiago, with good advice from some fellow riders we avoided the main drag.

Leo had suggested a route through Paso Vergara then turning left over a shortcut pass.

The first part of the ride we railed down the main road turning off into shingle towards the border, this is a mining road so pretty good nic allowing good speeds.



Reaching the Chilean border we clocked out per usual, with the weather looking unusual and the wind picking up we rode the 17 km to the Argentine border only to have the beady eyed customs guy saying we did not have the paperwork we needed??? WTF????:huh



The Chilean guys had taken our paperwork so we were told we had to go back to the Chilean post to get the correct papers, I was unhappy as it was full of sandpits and the wind was horrific making riding bloody hard, the wind was ripping up sandstorms and twisters with speeds that were fast enough to pick up stones and throw them at us bouncing off us and Maya.:eek1:eek1

Making it back to the border and chatting with them they said no we do not need the paperwork and the Argies were wrong, to be fair I was starting to get agitated, in the end they gave us a photocopy and wrote to the Argies saying they don’t need it but here it is with our stamp. :deal

That night we stayed at the border in the bottom building which was droughty and cold ...but dry.



As the evening progressed the weather tipped with very heavy rain, as the rain slowed down ... the snow settled in .... ouwh no.:eek1

We listened on wondering if the road was going to be washed away or passable, the temperature dropped like a stone testing our sleeping bags...which passed the test.

As morning appeared it was clear that the weather storm had created a few issues for us.



The pass up and over to Argentina was looking ominous with smatterings of snow which were slowly getting thicker and more drifts.



It wasn’t long and my riding ability was being tested with 100 - 300 mm snow on the racetrack, being we were climbing the pass it was as slippery as an eel and very hard work.

We ended up cleaning off nearly two km of road down to dirt to gain traction, I did try and play the snow off but the snow won .....Maya tumbling to the floor and me “I spray the snow with heidenau and walk away”



Yes this is the moment of the get off, I just wanted to check the snow on the left :rofl



House and some contents off to reduce the top weight we picked her up.:clap

The method was to clear the rest of the road at least where the steeper parts were then ride the middle in the fresh snow as the traction was good there.



The top nearly in sight



It was easy sailing with fresh snow and almost flat



Cresting the pass was good however we had 2 - 3 km along the top before heading down .....this is where we got stuck in a 300 mm deep section about 100 meters long and slowly but surely we ran out of traction and we started to head up the last dreaded section.



We had almost decided to turn back when a Landy Discovery turned up and said we had clobbered the worst and there was less.

The road started improving which was a godsend





Although the raod was still 200 - 300 mm deep in places without vehicle tracks etc it was easy enough to get through



Managing to wrestle Maya to the crest we decided to take there good advice and continue on into Argentina making it to the border building again less than impressed with them... they knew this and were being a little less obnoxious, for me it was a lesson in anger management as I was want to smack the beady eyed idiot however I wanted more our paperwork so we could continue.

Finally getting our entry stamps and the piece of paper was still useless to them (and they knew it but sensed I was NOT riding back again) they let us pass, turns out the aduana is not there so it would have made no difference if we had ignored them and carried on.

In order to calm nerves Ellen fed me to keep me “out of their way”, lunch over we carried on playing bulldozer, at one point the drifts were half way up my my boots on the footpegs, we bashed through them one by one with Maya getting in at pace and chugging out the other side.... so much for less snow however to be fair the guys in the Discovery had stayed at the thermals so did not know the snow depth where we were heading.

Eventually we made it out of the snow laden ground, our new found challenge was the sodden clay from snow melt which saw some scary tank slapper moments and us weaving across the track.



Finally we got down onto dry ground and corrugations ( I will never whine about corrugations again) which made life easy other than the usual teeth chattering but not from freezing conditions or snow this time.



All bar one bad sandpit with wind it was nearly plain sailing



The valley down was a cruze to the aduana with some stock moving moments, the aduana normal and friendly, TVIP and stamps we set off to Malarque, the road getting better and better turning to tar ... almost felt like cheating!!!!

Arriving in Malarque we found a hostel with a bed, pillows and hot shower..... very nice I have to say.

With a good kitchen we knocked up a good feed and quit the night early.

After a big sleep we wondered off to destination Finca Rita, John and Annettes in San Rafael.
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  #725  
Old 13 Apr 2014
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Awesome landscape & photography
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  #726  
Old 13 Apr 2014
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G'day guy's loving the snow shots ,incredibly vibrant .if i do not catch you up in the mean time have a wonderful easter.YDF Noel
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  #727  
Old 16 Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drwnite View Post
Awesome landscape & photography
Heya Drwnite

Thanks man, pretty cool (cold actually) place.
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  #728  
Old 17 Apr 2014
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Originally Posted by Noel900r View Post
G'day guy's loving the snow shots ,incredibly vibrant .if i do not catch you up in the mean time have a wonderful easter.YDF Noel
Heya Noel, back atcha mate, scoff yaself senseless on chocolate and have a great weekend.

Cheers Andi
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Last edited by Two Moto Kiwis; 20 Apr 2014 at 04:07.
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  #729  
Old 20 Apr 2014
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San Rafael ….. Hotel CalifincaRita

John and Annettes, Finca Rita, San Rafael, ex travellers settling down into an un-normal life, we had written to them days prior warning them of our invasion, Bevan from Phoenix had done the same and for some unusual reason Lorraine gave them the heads up saying good people, we believe her email was hacked.rofl

Arriving to the Finca we were welcomed in with open arms and shown to our room (and never let out) :eek1:lol3, we unpacked Maya as we were planning a canyon ride during our two night stay….well we told them two nights as that is (WAS) the plan. :huh

Settling in we went into town with John and on the way back we visited one of their friends who sells wine, we bought a box of 6 as Ellen had decided that we would probably be there longer …best be prepared. :evil

2.30 something am we finished chatting over a coupla wines (Mr Duval I believe we are in the same trouble makers camp ) … next day was work …. hmmm cruzey start then eh, in order to stay at John and Annettes they like to get help on the farm, this saves travellers money and helps out big time on the farm with many hands makes lite work.

The weather had been a little off and the grapes sugar level too low thus harvesting was off the list at this point, weeding, everyone's favourite job was on tho.

Sugar testing the grapes amidst piss taking and coffees :wink:



Sounds bad, no, bit of grubbing and pulling out of the stringy bloody thingys ready for collection to the fire heap, good exercise.:clap

For me it was a time to exchange muscle group use and get some exercise having a good sweat with exercise other than picking Maya up outa the snow.

Ellen and Annette were picking up the Walnuts so everyone was busy and reuniting at lunch stops for an energy top up of good food and some good ol BS.

Now John and Annette take things at a leisurely pace not burning out knowing there is a big job on hand so this makes for good fun, chats and a chance to fix the world. (if it is not done overnight with wine) :rofl

During our stay I had a tussle with three big guys out on the farm, every one of them looking down on me the odds were gonna be interesting and I knew it would be a fight.

I took the first swing and got a good strike bringing the first one to the ground while the other two looked on, there was a tussle over the second one followed by the third, next thing I know all three were on the ground and the victory was mine, I felt triumphant with that David and Goliath thing….then Ellen said come on man they are only weeds ….:huh

They were big tho :evil



Back to the tractor work we loaded all the defeated weeds onto the trailer, not just the three big guys but all his mates too, this was done over 15 - 20 loads, we always took the time to wave to the girls when we passed them which we thought was quite friendly like.

The Canyon, Canyon De Atual

We were unchained and allowed to play, Canyon De Atual and back our ride for the day. We confirmed it was the same one that Martyn and Jaime from Chile had just ridden and one point in the canyon there was a rock fall, the rocks however the size of a car, given they had seven bikes but more importantly seven blokes they manhandled the big girls over the trials course and carried on.





The colours did not disappoint



Not knowing if the road was blocked or clear we prepared to turn around if and when it would be required.

Taking in the canyon we were served jolly splendid views (in John and Annette English accent), reaching the last power station the Peligro tape (danger tape) was up across the road …so we rode around it and sure enough approx 1 km up the rock fall was still there less maybe 2 rocks, still no way for us to pass, lunch stop then, that was our turning point.



There was a rude guy there doing the fingers ... he was dressed like me :eek1



We were here



Photo shoot and return to home base admiring the canyon from the new perspective which did not let us down.

Bit of rock climbing too...all a bit easy without snow on it



Cool views



A play in the puddles on the way back



Back to the farm to shower up and wine up ….good times. :clap

San Rafael is a nice town with all the services, the screws had fallen outa my sunnies (note Paso Sico) so an optics shop took care of this with two new screws, we also wanted a fuel filter for Maya, this again was easy to get and with enthusiastic help from the moto shop all of who were very keen looking at the orange mammoth parked at their shop.

4 nights on the first box of wine and it had gone ….. very hot here with the snow and rain, Annette went back to the wine seller, he said but the Kiwis bought a box only 4 night nights ago… yeah says Annette, at least we are supporting the local economy.:wink:

1 Week On

Well our two nights have long past and we didn‘t leave cos we weren’t allowed to (actually by choice), finding ourselves banned from the gate it is like Hotel California here where you can check out any time you like but you can never leave, John and Annette appreciating some bloke help getting the weeding done and some chic help picking up the Walnuts with the Asian contingent doing an excellent job.:clap

Ellen per usual made sushi and Chinese pies all going down a real treat, nice to share her skills with Annette so she can make the same if we ever get to leave. :rofl

Sushi expert at work



Forward planning for Moto GP if we can get in, with prices looking spendie I might have to settle for a big TV at a hotel somewhere … time will tell.

In between Charlie that we met at Lorraines arrives, he was on his way down south and wanted to come back up to John and Annettes on Thursday, it was explained to Charlie that yes today was indeed already Thursday ...Charlie's plans changed slightly and he ended up staying three nights with us, wine, chats, ride, good times.:clap

Laural, Hardie and their trusty Asian sidekick :lol3



With Charlie’s help on the farm we loaded the rest of the weeds onto the trailer and took em to the heap, onya Charlie great to have the extra manhands.

Me driving the tractor, John and the two dogs relaxing, Charlie practicing being Japanese and taking photos :evil





Now the favourites, three Kittens, the dodgy one that is the shit stirrer trouble maker has been called Kiwi ... right on!!!! :lol3



The final day came, we had finished the big part of the weeding so set to for destination La Falda to meet up again with Dan and Sara.

So we ended up leaving 14 days after our intended two nights, new amigos and lots of work done to help Johna and Annette, sampling of local wines, good times, talked BS, fixed the worlds problem and named a cat ....mission accomplished.

Busy fixing the worlds problems



The sustenance we used to fix the world



So if you want to do this, help your budget, help John and Annette on the Finca, help sort the world out and just generally enjoy yourself while earning your keep contact them, as ex travellers they know the needs of us homeless buggas, also John has a good dose of tools and contacts, they are running out of kittens to name tho so get in soon.

Thanks John and Annette, San Rafamily ... we are looking forward to coming back in a few months :clap

Link to contact them,

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...716#post465800

A poem written by Annette abut the Finca

High on a snowy highway, It’s so cold I wish I had some hair
We were on our way to Hotel Finca Rita
Recommended by Bevan and Claire
We saw the farm and heard the ringing of a bell
This could be heaven or this could be hell
Greeted at the gate by five dogs, three kittens and a cat
And some strange woman wearing a cowboy hat
They all showed us the way.
As we heard voices around us say
Welcome to the Hotel Finca Rita
There’s a lovely room at Hotel Finca Rita
Such a lovely place
With loads of camping space
There’s no such thing as television or internet
You don’t Google, you just have to ask Annette
John and Alana filled up the food cupboard with Asian spice
And all the homemade dinners are very nice.
The alarm goes off at 6.00. The barn opens at 7.00
I lay in bed thinking “I hope I can stay here until eleven“.
Asadon in hand, we are just clearing away weeds that are higher than me
Oh how I wished I had not stayed up drinking all night until 3.00!
Ellen helped harvest the walnuts during the day and cracked them at the night
I had a dream she had my nuts in a cracking device and awoke with a fright
The day it rained Johnnie and I sat watching the Isle of Man TT and much more
But relaxing was not on the cards, cracking of the walnuts was in store
At the sound of the church bell
She really had to tell
I had asked Annette to just bring me some wine
She replied that Ken and Carol had drank it all back in 2009
And still we heard those voices say
Welcome to Hotel Finca Rita
There’s a lovely room at Hotel Finca Rita
Such a lovely place
With loads of camping space
The first weekend we killed the duck
Oh boy was it bloody hard to pluck
Ellen made Peking Duck, Sushi and Chinese dumplings
Next things for the pot are the poor goslings
George and Mildred oversees that the goslings come to no harm
So next time you see me I will probably only have one arm
After two weeks we found ourselves running for the door
Had to find our motorbike, but it was not parked where it was before.
Relax said Johnnie Green, your motorbike is not around for you to retrieve
You can check out anytime you like but she will never let you leave.
Welcome to Hotel Finca Rita
There's a lovely room at Hotel Finca Rita
Such a lovely place
With lots of camping space.
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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Last edited by Two Moto Kiwis; 19 May 2014 at 14:40.
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  #730  
Old 28 Apr 2014
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Congratulations on the win with the calender ,i always thought it a great shot.
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  #731  
Old 30 Apr 2014
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Congratulations on the win with the calender ,i always thought it a great shot.
Heya Noel

Thanks man, we are stoked, neat to get 1 in but to get 2 in is well cool indeed.

It is just a little icing on the cake for us.

Cheers Andi
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  #732  
Old 3 May 2014
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2 Years On The Road Today

Good afternoon all

Well, today is May the 3rd which means two years ago today we set off on our 1.5 year trip from New Zealand.

What an interesting two years with moto fails, accidents, fantastic times and huge downs all making up what we call adventure riding.

Wouldn't swap it for a minute even in the bad times cos the worst day on the road is still far better than the best day in the office as long as no one dies.

Thanks to all who have supported us along the way
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  #733  
Old 5 May 2014
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Thanks for sharing your trip with us office dwellers

It is a joy to read.
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  #734  
Old 9 May 2014
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Great photos and good to see you made it through the snow guys, shame about the graffiti on the Mano, but life goes on. Too many beautiful landscapes around the world tarnished by garbage, Peru is one of many countries where they need to do something differently and look after the land they have, the onus to educate and introduce recycling must fall on the shoulders of those in power though, not people who often have very little money and no incentive, there's no overnight solution unfortunately.

Over 2 years on the road now ? Congratulations to you both from Lisa & me!!!

Doesn't seem like 5 minutes since you kids were here watching the Bambi's jumping around out the back of our place. Keep on going for as long as possible for us lot pushing out 40 hour work weeks to pay the mortgage, your ride reports are much needed!
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'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
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Old 10 May 2014
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Thanks for sharing your trip with us office dwellers

It is a joy to read.
Heya troos

Thank you so much, we are enjoying writing about it too
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"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




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