Heya troos, yeah it is a bit uncool but Ellen is ok, everything else we can replace although difficult, the icebreaker stuff will be a no go here which is a real bastid.

Life goes on, more good mind food to come

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya bigman73

Yeah normally we walk together but just not this day, let your guard down and shit does happen eh.

Never mind, onwards and upwards

Bolivias contribution, for me being on the ground here now for 2.5 months I can totally understand their backward thinking for the clock, for me it symbolizes where they are and where they are heading which is back in time, that article just proves to me I am correct about their neanderthal way of thinking which will see them stagnate or go backwards

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya Vince

All is good and all is starting to go forward, we are in La Paz today and trying to get a new camera, got to make sure it is genuine and not a genuine fake!!!!

More good stuff to come, death road tomorrow then out to Brasil.

Thanks for your kind words mate, appreciated.

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya Grif and Lisa

Yeap all good, moving forward and getting organised now, trying to get replacement stuff is hopeless here and a mission.

Onwards and upwards to better things for sure, death road tomorrow then off east we go, last place to see with be Noel Kemff National park then we hit Brasil

Love to you both and same gidday to Mike and Jing too

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya all, ok just went back 6 pages to find out where we left off, with the blockades ,strikes, Ellens robbery etc we sorta lost the plot back there then had no wifi for 8 days.

Cochabamba

We enjoyed our stay for a couple of nights at the hostel then found a couchsurf with a Costarican man with a Colombian wife that were moto travellers.

We moved to their apartment and talked about travel and motos and of course the world cup was on so Ellen and I made a stop at the super market to get some table goodies to munch on while watching the games.

We had a rattly cam tensioner and I wanted to deal with that as Jaime has an electric drill, I just needed a drill and tap to complete the equation from the tool we carry.:clap

The cam tensioners are oil pressure fed, not sure which one was the issue as there are two so I bought a drill and taps and did the mod which basically makes the tensioner pre tensioned with the oil finishing the last bit off....that was successful.:clap

I went upstairs to get some bits and pieces and that is when I found Ellen had just got back from her walk and had been robbed and beaten ...gut wrenching.:cry:cry:cry

No need to go back over that now but it was a shock and a half and after having had all the other crap previously I was ready to kill someone. Too much shit from one country and it was not getting any better.

While in Cochabamba I tried to buy a small oil cooler as well to help Maya keep her cool in the heat, I could not find one for love nor money and every shop was totally confused despite having the translation and pictures ... they acted as they had never seen one before despite nearly every small moto having one .....WTF...no....can’t be ****ed.

So, “come back tomorrow”, “my friend has one in his warehouse”, “no problem ring me back at 4 pm and I will have one for you” .....these we some of the good ol lies again so we gave up trying to get one there.

Staying with Jaime and Maria was good, nice people, we were going to stay 2 - 3 nights with them but after Ellens incident they said stay another night and get sorted which was very kind of them.

They took us for a drive in their suzuki jeep so we bought lunch



We also did our bike papers which was a needless nightmare, every other country issues 90 days, no Bolivia, 30 at a time and you have to go back and back to get it sorted, we did however meet a nice guy who had lived in the USA, talked english and had an XR650 with bike tank, Baya headlight setup etc which he was rightfully proud of.



Sorry we do not have any more photos as they are all in the camera that wrongfully has a new owner somewhere :baldy:baldy

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

After surviving Cochabamba .....just, we defiantly decided to hit the 25 back road to Coroico which is at the base of the famous “Death Road”

Jaime joined us for part of the way on his XR650L which is a very nice machine, leaving mid morning we ventured out into yes ... more protests and blockades, todays strikes are the public transport and taxis blocking as much as they possibly could.



The policemens wives were also protesting about something as well so pretty much Bolivia came to a standstill yet again.

The blockades meant some pretty unusual riding tactics to negotiate the vans and buses strewn all over the intersections, at one point we had a policeman on a KLR650 in front of us, he took a wrong side of a bus and ended up behind us, we mounted the kerb, up onto the footpath, around some fruit stalls, past a bus shelter and along some shop fronts only to have Mr.Plod think that our route was much better than his and he followed us.



Buses parked diagonally across the road to stop everyone



Minivans parked all over intersections ... some too tight for us to fit through meaning alternative routes like center islands and footpaths.



I wondered if he was gonna get grumpy with us so I was armed and dangerous and was ready to tell him to take a flying leap but he didn’t and just turned off his way.

Finally through the blockades, some 20 - 30 of them we came to our turnoff, we wanted to gas up but the YPFB (Petrol station) would not serve us, they said they didn’t have any petrol ..... sure.

Anyway, having the super tanker we still had enough to get to our lunch stop which also we could fuel up at Morochata but first we were sent to 4400 meters above stress level to stunning mountain top scenery, with the public transport and taxis on strike we had the road pretty much to ourselves which was so nice, thanks guys ... go on more strikes please.

Bit of a rough section here



The range we rode over, sorry for the lesser pics as they are all taken with the little camera which gets lost in the big long scenes.



Zig zag :clap





In Morochata we found two more girls that smiled, actually the whole town was friendly which was so unBolivia, although shy the two girls that were serving in the restaurant were genuinely interested in our moto, gringo faces and where we were from so we had a nice chat with them and yes I had my picture taken so that was three smiling people we found in Bolivia thus far, with the exponential growth in smiles this place has possibilities.



See in the background in the photo above the other faces looking around the corner at the aliens ... it was funny. :rofl

Two happy kiwis after a nice lunch and friendly people clap:clap



From Morochata the road opened it doors to an array of exciting scenery with spectacular backdrops, to be fair if there is one road worth doing in Bolivia it would be this one, I hope the death road is much more dangerous cos this one was a serious contender, in places it dropped 400 - 500 meters straight down with no stops except at the bottom which would not have hurt because you would be dead.





This made me keep my mind on the job, all the heartache and crap in Cochabamba pushed to one side and fresh mind-food put in via the scenic eye candy.:freaky

Destination Independencia, time to put our feet up for the night and lay the heads down.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

As you know Bolivians are the best at blockades and strikes, as it would turn out today was one of those days, as we went to leave town we found our first one, logs across the road and stones etc, they were not going to let us past, Ellen hoped off and went to shift one log and they all got upset so as quick as a flash I rode to the right and over the log, a big fat woman was angry and tried to stop me but her arse was too big for her to be agile and I made it over no problem, Ellen climbed on and we rode of amidst yelling at screaming at us .... not our doings....

Just up the road they had cut a trench across the road and left a part wide enough for people to walk across so we took Maya across no prob, more trees down, more branches down and small road blockades ... just when I thought we were home free we came a cross a truck, a digger and some big rocks and a bunch of angry men pushing BIGGER rocks onto the road.

They tried to stop us, there was just enough space to fit through the last hole before they closed it with a big rock which would have left us in no mans land trapped, again thinking quick I shot for the gap and one of the ****wits threw a rock about 300 mm round into the gap, as he through it it piled in just behind the front wheel, I had enough pace on that the rock rolled smashing into the bashplate and the back wheel going over it .. kinda rodeo style really but I got over, again amidst yelling and stone throwing Ellen got on, I cracked it opened and we took off giving them the ADV salute on exit.

Now I don’t mind if they wonna protest but to take it out on us ... no I don’t think so, not our doing, we made it out thinking it was going to be a long arse day of blockades and trouble, turns out that was the key entry point and we had made it through and had the rest of the road to ourselves.





All was well until we found a wee creek .... full of brown water ... and flowing...bridge pylons only ... no bridge, gezz the day was getting very exciting now.



We picked our way down to the river, picked our way onto the river then picked our way up stream, this all happens at the confluence of two rivers, after where they had joined into one there was no way we could cross so we had to try other tactics.



Now being a keen 4 wheeler for many years I used my river reading and crossing skills to try and get us across as dry as possible, the only other alternative was to go back 70 km into the blockades and bullshit ... no bloody way.



We rode upstream probably 1 km past the confluence so we only had to deal with one river at a time and pick the most braided spot, we made a few small crossings where the river had braided out, finally after 5 - 6 small crossings the main course was in front but river crossing tactics had paid its way, the main stream was an easy crossing only 500 - 600 mm deep ....the last bit had some bigger lumps called Murphy rocks hidden underneath the surface so Ellen came out to help with that section, thankfully only 10 meters or so.





Happy to report we made the main stream easy enough although boots were full to the brim, a small detour around the sinking sand stuff we made the second smaller creek crossings with ease, the last one deeper than we thought but easy doable.



There was a casualty of the crossing tho, our faithful glue bottle full of chain oil drowned never to be seen again, that trusty small bottle travelled 90450 km sitting in the bashplate .....R.I.P glue bottle and thank you for your service over the last two years.

River done and dusted we climbed up to Pucara for lunch and boot emptying much to the amusement of the locals, now some confusion was had with the GPS saying go left and a local guy saying go right, we decided to take the locals advice which sent us on a 65 km one road end goose chase...wanker, so 130 km later we return to the same village, quick retank of fuel and set off before dark encroached, we rode to just prior 6.00 pm to make lost time, Ellen spotted a soccer field so we found the track down to that and set camp for the night.



The video of part of the crossing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/PKpat1OLUts" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The rest of the road looked similar to this



Mushroom soup if you wonna know and yet is was nice.

Bed early, I was spent as the road was very greasy and we had a HUGE moment with a near highside at about 50 km/hr, the BIGGER worry was the side of the road and more to the point what wasn’t on the side of the road ....it was a long way down.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

An early start being in the tent, long day ahead so an early start a welcome.





Muesli and Coffee to kick start the session, packed camped up and set off.

Some traffic was moving, mainly big trucks so we had to be mindful on the tight single lane road.



All was going well until we came across a small creek crossing only 200 - 300 mm deep which we crossed with ease and out the other side where it was wet and greasy ... and the at was it.

1st, .....2nd, ....3rd then bang down we went, it was clay with a wet top and as greasy as a politician, lucky we were only doing 35 - 40 km/hr, there was however one ill placed rock that tested the integrity of the Jesse case and rack, well despite the impact the case hardly had a scar, the mounting system designed to give in an impact worked well.

It spun us nearly 180 degrees and pointed us back to where we had come from ... the dreaded creek as it would turn out :evil



Time to unload some gear as I had injured my shoulder in the crash



Things took a bit of a beating for sure



Oooops



The rack did get a tweaking but as luck would have it we crashed right beside a bunch of mum natures finest tools, a bunch of big sticks and a some rocks, we used these to get things at least remounted so we could carry on, 10 minutes work and we were ready to race.



As we were getting sorted to go a local man rode past on a Jawa twin stinky (they are everywhere here) entered the creek then ring ding splash and he when down and took an epic swing in the freezing water:eek1:eek1, as quick as a flash he was up and picking up the bike, we ran over to help but he waved us as ok, poor bugger would have frozen his nuts off and his moto was not happy either probably have water in at least one pot.

So within ten minutes the creek and exits had claimed two motos, at least we made it through the creek before we biffed it.:rofl

Mrs.Garmin wasn’t happy with where we were either and told us some lies, this time we did take local advice (from several to make sure they all told the same story) finally arriving at Chulumani late afternoon.

We called it quits there for the day as I have a weak left shoulder from smashing the front out of it in a snowboarding accident when I was a young punk and todays crash give it quite the tweak which it did not need.

Rest day, shoulder said no way so we decided to stay and relax a day, we had a swimming pool (bloody freezing cold water ,...even for Ellen!!) and access to a bar b que, off to town for some good steak and an epic lunch was brewed up over the coals.



Coroico tomorrow .....the base of the death road.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

We sat out the bad weather for one more day in Chulumani as it had crapped out and turned the place to mud.

The next morning was still grim but we made break for it, very wet and very slippery on the clay all I could think of was to keep Maya upright and look after my damaged shoulder.

Mrs.Garmin was also having a siesta and we were riding down a road that didn't exist, stopping to ask instructions we were sent off down a shitty boggy track, this lasted about 50 meters before I decided no way, it took us about 3 meters to stop sliding to stop and we were only just chugging in first gear.

When enough mud, clay, sticks, goats and little kids were jammed under our wheels we stopped by doing a two wheel drift sideways.

Ellen bailed and helped turn us around, with Maya pointed seriously straight up I feed it to her cutting a trench and sending rooster tails out the back.

Back on normal wet shingle and what appeared to be the village drunk merrily explained we could go the main drag we were on and it would cross a bridge and take us to the main dirt road, given that was our only option we did it and he was right.

A nice big bridge in the middle of nowhere



Coripata was the lunch spot with a local providing the entertainment on a Jawa, the cobbles being very wet, muddy and greasy he started up and took off completing a 180 turn in front of his mates, with typical Bolivian gear he cut his leg, ATGATT for me.

Our road then opened up, the rain stopped and the riding easy enough for me to see out the window and enjoy.



The last section to Coroico was crap, muddy and wet again.

While in Corico we spotted a 1200 GSA rolling around in the streets, I chased him, he disappeared, I ran up the next street and there he was, it was Gail who we crossed on the Stahlratte with, good guy so he decided to hang with us for another day, we then organised to do the death road together and go to La Paz, Gail needed his bike checked and we needed to buy a new camera.
The next day was wet and shitty again but we decided to hit it anyway, the road very wet and very very greasy.

This is what soggy looks like



Gail tiptoeing through



This is what a defiant smile against wet and cold looks like, it was very cold at 4000 meters with rain!! :eek1



That was the entry to the death road, we decided due to rain and lack of visibility we would do it on our way back.

Finally a glimpse of sun sprinkled hope to the sodden and cold riders with temperatures only a few degrees above zero.



More sun ... things are looking up, here is 4680 meters so bitterly cold.



Finally in La Paz it was warmish in the sun, very cold in the shadows



Gail got his bike checked out for a small oil leak and we purchased a new camera so we are back on board for long shots.:clap

Tomorrow is the death road with the forecast half reasonable, time will tell.

We head to jungle so we are going from -3 to 33 degrees, unsure of wifi and service so catch you fellas in a few days.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Leaving La Paz was manic, cars, buses, people traffic jams, this time riding with Gail on his R1200GS BMW who we met on the Stahlratte .

The crowded market outside our hotel garage :eek1, had to scrape and wedge our way through.



Nearing the edge of town we were needing to fuel up, in true form the lady (bitch) would not serve us and was quite anti, so she got it back and with some Kiwi love thrown in too. :rofl

Finally out of town and gased up we hit the road to the famous death road, crystal clear views and nice ride, on turning off to the death road it was foggy and misty but not raining this time so we were on a win.:clap





At the start of the road



Not long into it we stopped and waited for a digger to clear some rocks from the road, we left the bikes and walked about 100 meters to see the happenings for 5 minutes, on our return some wanker had stolen the drink bottle from the back of our case, you can’t leave anything here unattended for a minute cos some Bolivian retard will lightfinger it.:cry

Now for the funny part, this is my “piss tin”, when we camp I use it for a having a piss in during the night so I don’t have to climb out and back in so some Boliviano wanker has my tin tainted with piss, I seriously hope the ****er gets a sore guts and chucks his ring out.:lol3

Now the shitty part, there was a bus parked behind us and the driver was in it and did not get out so he would have seen someone steal it, when I asked him it was basically “see no evil hear no evil”, the buses were all tour operators for the mountain biking so he would know who did it but just covered for them. ...wankers :huh

Rant over (for todays shit) we carried on down to the famous corner then the famous cliff and waterfall.

While it was neat we have ridden far more dangerous roads in Colombia, Ecuador and Peru thus I felt it was a bit over rated.

We did the usual pics and returned back up to the main highway, pissed off about some wanker nicking the bottle and a little disappointed, at least that is ticked off and I am not wandering any more.





Gail on his 12 GS



Guess who



Now the road to Caranarvi was closed until 5 pm which would have seen us late to town, they road team people let us go at 4.30 so we got a jump on the rest of the rally driver taxis.





So, this to me is where the death road really is because it it tight, narrow and the chance of dying are greater with you fall straight into a rumbling gorge many meters below.





It was a cool ride apart from the taxi drivers (they must be from Peru).

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

I am rather late with this, but just read about your attack, Ellen. Hope you are fully recovered now.
Rob

That's right , the show must go on ,,
You go girl!

Heya Rob

Ellen is doing ok, and now we are staring to replace our gear.

We are insured with World Nomads and to be fair they settled our claim pretty promptly and fairly (always a bastid loosing money of depreciation when stuff is working fine tho)

So yeap, main thing is Ellen is good and we can continue

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya Joe

That's for sure sure mate, only one way and that is forward!!

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Wanting to gas up we discovered there was no gas in town or as it would turn out none of the next towns for 200 km and we already had 200 km on the clock, thankfully we both had good capacity

Getting away at 9.30 am they said 6 hours, sweet that is a nice ride time.

The first part was good, then it got progressively worse, then very then very wet and muddy with roadworks stifling progress every 10 - 15 km with up to 1 hours waits.

With rock falls across the road they had heavy artillery clearing rocks off the road all the time costing us time, Plan B was discussed about camping somewhere as progress was extremely slow.

Yes this is a WTF discussion



Then it really caved in, serious road works couple with serious mud and truck jams blocking the road, we were too far into it to turn back as we would not have enough gas so we stuck to Plan A and continued from one blockage to another and ruts deep enough that our cases hit the ground at times.





Gail was also hit by an asshole truck driver, Gail was completely stopped and the truck driver just drove into him from a few meters away on flat ground, luckily damage was minimal



I was very hard work to be fare and of course we were going down from 4680 meters to 188 meters so a huge elevational drop and the Amazon jungle heat with it, two days ago we were freezing and now we are sweating like a pig.

Things were improving :rofl





It is about 38 degrees C and sticky here, 100.4 F translated to USA language



The last part of the road had huge potholes and mud sinkholes although flat, we made it into San Borje just on 6 pm very dirty and very tired, low on gas, no food or water left....what a great day clap

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