Hey all it is that time of year when we ask for a vote for our hard earned photo for the HU calendar (only one in this year for us), this year the competition is extremely hot with some magnificent photos, so on that note well done to all other entries too.

Just log in and like it ....cheque will be in the mail

Here is the link and our is pic is #hu16_16 post No 17

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...inners-81042-2

Take a look through the other entries guys and feel inspired to take photos from a different perspective.

Cheers Andi & Ellen
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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

We had been given the name of two hostels, the first one Backpackers Paradise, well it was anything but and a shithole, dirty, smelly and noisy bastids till 4 am, we were there with Noah and Lucy and none of us really got any sleep to speak of so we all agreed to bail and get something better.

Independencia was the next one so we moved there and yes it was a nice place and warm, we got the last two beds, Noah and Lucy luckily had sort-of decided to head north and this was the kick they needed to get going, much to see.:clap

There were moto riders, cyclists and some backpackers, a pretty cool mob all round.

The following day was the big wind day, 130 km / hr …yes very strong, we rode into town to find oil for Maya and were blown all over the place …..unreal.

On the way to the cafe with Ellen, I was on a two lane one way street at the traffic lights, Police beside me on my left, the wind blew up and behind from the right hand side standing the bike upright and high and me on tip toes trying to foot/hop the bike and hold it up, I got closer and closer to the Police car, they are both looking at me and I am trying to avoid hitting them (all at less than walking pace :eek1), I brush past their bumper with my left leg footing/hoping it across the RED light in front of the Police rofl

They didn't know whether to hop out and help or watch so they watched with amusement, either way I went across the intersection and ended up pointing up the other one way the wrong way and finally met the kurb which allowed me better footing amidst some Bridget Jones maneuvers trying desperately to hold Maya upright with arms and legs in all directions :lol3

The Police giving me the “are you ok “ thumbs up and me breathing deeply ok’ed them back with the thumbs up, they carried and I rode the wrong way up the one way..…everyone was happy except my undies. :huh

A moto rider arrived that night at the hostel, he biffed his bike after being pushed off the road by the wind hurting himself and his moto, also a road marking truck was blown over, the moto rider and 6 men huddled behind a small building for shelter for 5 hours waiting for the wind to subside. :eek1

We had contacted Salvador, a local ADVer to meet for a coffee in town which was cool, we got a lot of local information that you don’t get on maps, he is true moto head and has a KTM 990 Adventure fruited out too.… as well as a lineup of other lusties.

P1240231 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Having planned to go down to the end of road nine and there is a light house out there which would be a 5 km walk each way…perfect, thanks to Salva for good information. :clap

Setting off on our merry way a concrete paved road, turning to gravel then narrowing to one lane, potholes, puddles, some smaller river crossings and so beach work.

P1240251 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

This one too deep and soft so we went around it on the beach

P1240250 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Making to the end of the road were the old road disappears onto the beach we left Maya and started our hike.

P1240254 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Observing the tide I had noted earlier the line of the leaves etc on the beach, some soft river crossings too deep for us (note 1 meter plus) meant going down on the beach below the leaf line and back up…..:huh

Lunch call saw us stop in a nice and sheltered place so we set a marker in the sand to see which way the tide was going and yes as you guessed it the tide was coming in as our marker got washed away.

Our destination that we didn't make on the far left of the pic

IMG_6735 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6729 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Deciding to turn at that point we hightailed it back on foot to Maya and get back past the last point of no return at which we had to cross the beach or we would be stuck there.

The last crossing proved interesting and Maya decided to check out China, 100hp, new Heidenaus, soft beach = dig fast, we made it ok with both of us pushing and we got to back up onto the track …..no sand was hurt, Maya didn’t explode into flames and kill everyone (despite being US plated) and we were at least free.

Softening

IMG_6741 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Power

IMG_6744 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

China --> stop :evil

IMG_6743 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Getting back to a Unimog we saw on the way in we went and said hello, they are Austrian (the home of Maya) and they had a seriously cool setup truck.

IMG_6745 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6755 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

After a few minutes of chats he advised us of a nice campsite behind the road and river so we checked it out … ouwh perfect, flat, sheltered, grassy, water, a creek crossing to get there and no one else …a perfect adventurers 5 * hotel.

IMG_6753 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

There was some road works being done and a lot of trees over the road, 10 minutes of lifting and flinging saw the entrance almost clear, enough to sneak through.

The entry in the back ground

IMG_6764 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

That night the Unimog guys joined our camp fire giving us some home baking and fish which we duly swapped for fire grilled pork and 7 year Flore de Caña rum…fair trade and good times.

The head chef bar b qing the pork clap

IMG_6763 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Surviving the night we headed back to the hostel and after getting good information as to where to buy oil we managed to give Maya a blood transfusion of Motul in the hostel yard, everything accomplished in Punta Arenas now.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Punta Afreezeus To Puerto Nofeeling To Torres Del Pain .. that sums it up rofl

Our last night in Punta Arenas we spent at Salvas and uploaded pics and did some ride reports as the wifi at the hostel was not even enough to open gmail.:huh

On the way back to the hostel we stopped at a supermarket to get some wasabi, Ellen could not find any so she lovingly bought 1.75 liters of Flor De Caña … onya chica, much more important than wasabi. :rofl

IMG_6770 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Mission accomplished it was time to head to Puerto Natales and onto the famed Torres Del Paine.

The day to Puerto Natales started nasty, wet and cold, although the clouds dispersed it left us freezing commanding all our warm and wet gear to fend of the elements.

We stopped at a bus stop shelter for some lunch to get out of the bitter wind then hit it to Puerto Natales.

P1240284 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

After battling bitter side winds we arrived at Puerto Natales, fueled up, got chased all around town by two black dogs that seemed to want a piece of us and would not give up until I cornered and cut one off booting it in the head and sending it flying which knocked its enthusiasm and left us alone.

We found a cafe, got a hot coffee and wifi, checked the weather forecast which for down here is somewhat of a joke then carried on to the park entrance.

IMG_6793 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6778 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We meet Emily and Adam, Sierra and Colette who are travelling in a VW van, so cool to meet them, we discussed some camping options because hotels and hostels being way over priced due to the famous park.

P1240328 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Our first glimpse of Torres Del Paine, riding loaded with 7 days of food ...and the rum

IMG_6798 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We found our sneaky camp site, leaving the road we managed to turn Maya onto Stealth mode and sneak in quietly disappearing into the bush cleverly disguising ourselves as trees…..dodgy....in fact so stealth was our camp we could not even photograph it rofl

As evening fell the mountain popped out of the cloud and a sunset unfolded ….wow ….

Sunset

IMG_6818 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

That is where we are going :clap

IMG_6814 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

It is hard to know when to stop taking photos, this majestic set of formations and rock taking our breath away to a silence of serious appreciation.

IMG_6809 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Tomorrow was a promising day regardless of the weather .....cos we were there!!!:clap

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Hi Andy, Ellen, just caught up again & gotta add me congrats, well done you two,

Super trip & loved the photo shoot at the end, though seriously doubt that there was no helmet .... mmmmnnnn not even on little

Now the last bit, would be interested in your shipping arrangements.

In the mean time take care & keep the rubber side down, keep on & have a on me. .......

Stay safe Vince

Hitting the park early from the south entrance first off was to Grey Lake for breakfast then on north around inside the park to come along to our next wow.

The wind was beating us around badly from all angles and the rain wofting in and out as we cruzed.

IMG_6827 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

On getting to Lake Nordenskjold the wind was unbelievable and making riding extremely difficult.

IMG_6831 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Taking some photos was testing my ability to hold Maya up as I was getting smacked from all sides from the wind changing its mind in direction every second.:eek1

Stopping at a lay-by we watched in awe at the abrupt rock faces looking down on us and the incredible wind ripping water from the lake making massive mobile sheets ….to say the conditions were ruff was an understatement, although 20 degrees still and sunny would be nice this was simply awesome with the aggressiveness and the anxiousness of knowing mum nature can throw us off the bike at any second.:huh

IMG_6854 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Vulnerable, excited, scared and wowed, what a feeling of knowing you are in the thick of it and you have to make it work or suffer, scary but cool. :evil

The new bridge to Las Torres, the spires hidden in the background

IMG_6865 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Making it to Hotel Las Torres we felt like we had cheated death, I have to admit in the heaviest of wind I was a little concerned.

We had made great time getting there, so we decided to get to the camp so we could view the three spires.

Talking with the hotel guys we could store gear at $2.00 per bag for the night …. we said to the dude well we have a heap of gear, jackets, boots, helmets etc so he gave us a massive plastic bag and said use this … it was huge and no way we could put all the stuff in and lift it or it would tear the arse out of it.:rofl

He let us fill it up in the store room so it did not burst … he was good to us so I gave him a coffee toffee lollie …dude was stoked and made his day. :clap

After strapping Maya down literally so she would not blow away (there was a small moto laying on its side) we headed for the hills, the weather partly playing with us, spits of rain, wind, sun, wind , still, wind, blowing and wind…could not make its mind up.:eek1

Stringwork 101 "How to stop your moto blowing away", add two straps and one cable and tie to timber work :rofl

IMG_6869 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Undeterred we hiked up to the cafe and Chileano camp site, our free camp was another hour up the valley, the weather caved in temporarily so we took shelter in the cafe where you can have a coffee for $7 if your pockets were too heavy, it then cleared so we headed up to camp.

IMG_6871 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

From the cafe, the weather was playing with us

IMG_6874 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The spires visible for a while

IMG_6875 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Torres the free camp turned out to be much better, more sheltered and right at the bottom of the base summit assault.

IMG_6890 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Turns out we were probably twice everyone elses age there which was kinda funny, we set the camp then headed to the top for the view of the spires.

The climb up was ok but ominous weather pushed us around a bit with the top part being extremely exposed.

IMG_6895 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The rock in the middle of the photo is the size of a house :eek1

IMG_6892 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Cresting the ridge at the base of the spires at the lake was breath taking, it was a quick set of show pony “we were here” photos before mum nature pulled the curtain over the display, we decided to sit it out and wait for the spires to reappear but todays show was over and aggressively over.

IMG_6897 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6901 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6903 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

After this it was game over

IMG_6906 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Mum nature was erratically throwing rain in all directions propelled by winds that were swerving more than a drunk driver and despite us sheltering under an overhanging rock we all started very getting wet.:cry

Coupled with a wind chill factor that was ugly enough to bring on hypothermia to the unprepared many others huddled knees to knees with us hoping it would clear, one by one everyone peeled off heading back down at a brisk pace.

My final face, I even used my brow wiping clothe to stop the wind chilling my forehead down....time to go

IMG_6910 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We waited for a break in the weather, we didn’t get it, another large rock looked appealing but the appeal was short lived, the weather was setting in for keeps and the rain laden air starting to carry snow cloud, the temperature dropped like a stone so we had no choice but to bail and get down.

The driving rain and big winds soaked us and all we could do was battle it back to camp, the unfortunate thing is we are NOT allowed a camp fire thanks to an Israeli guy who tried to burn his shitpaper and set the whole ****ing park into flames, now NO fires end of story.:huh

The fine for a fire is $16000 USD and 5 years in prison, they are serious about it, however we were soaked and cold so free accommodation in jail seemed like a nice warm option :rofl

As we had started at 5 am we had a big day so were in bed by 6 pm cos it was pissing down and cold, we did however meet another Kiwi dude and chatted for a while which was well cool.:clap

We had travelled lite up to the camp so made the most of our gear we had which was not much, although enough to get by it was not enough to be comfortable not having a spare set of dry clothes to change into, given the supposed forecast we should have been ok but the forecast here is a bad joke and you simply can not rely on it.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Heya Vince

Thanks man, yeah there was a helmet .....although small in the

Shipping, yes we are in the process now, finding out the finer details at the mo so when we have all the info we will post it up as current to this point in time anyway.

Will take care, we have to in the wind here, a moment lapse of concentration can end in tears quickly

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Day 2 Kinda Relaxing :clap

A semi solid nights sleep saw us wake up and get down the valley at a reasonable hour, on getting back Maya was patiently waiting like a mistress tied up waiting for some action (so I have been told cos I am a virgin) happy to see her standing upright unlike the other small moto that went to ground.

Time to dry everything out in the sun while it lasted

IMG_6914 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Adam had seen the Maya and thought she might get blown over so was gonna tie her down only to find we had already tied her down tight, nice to know other travellers have your back and are on the same page.clap

Emily spotted us drying everything out and came over, they invited us for lunch so we took some tucker over and a feast was had at the van, onya guys real cool to say the least and we were extremely lucky with an uncanny warm afternoon.

IMG_6915 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Finally we cruzed off to an unknown possible camp at nearly 5 pm ….usually not a good idea but if no good we could at least return.

The spires in the background giving us a hard time appearing as we left :rofl

IMG_6919 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

On the way to our new camp we found another creek

IMG_6929 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Guanacos everywhere in the park backed by the beauty wherever you look

IMG_6931 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The top of the park at Laguna Azul (Blue Lake) is relatively unknown by most so we went there, we were greeted by another nice yogi bear who gave us the rundown of the place and advised the camping was free (the correct wording we understand)

Heading down to the lake

IMG_6947 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We had the use of the CONAF building with gas cooking and seating, cold showers and flush toilets, the shelter building had glass to watch the bad weather and our camp site near enough to sheltered…perfect …well almost….could been hot showers.

The weather in the distance making its presence felt after the warm afternoon, another vent and dry before putting everything in, we also had to put our food indoors so the foxes didn't break into our food and eat it.

IMG_6948 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Setting down for the night we ate indoors in the warmth, rum in hand and life was good and easy, the yogis bears (park rangers) joining us a for a small drink which was neat.

We had the place to ourselves, quiet but cold, the tapping of rain on the tent sending us off to sleep..... what a great day clap

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

I voted for you the other day Andi....so just a cool thousand for me please
It will pay for my flight back to Bangkok in a few days.

Great Pic, great RT, keep it up

All the best
Wayne

PS. Don't forget to sign the cheque

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The Balkans
https://new.horizonsunlimited.com/poi_entity/8417

Heya Wayne, thanks man.

I have been trying to pay you but the internet is down, the post shops are closed and my pen ran out of ink

Bangkok, you lucky man, big trip planned?

Cheers Andi

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Day 3 .... and lovin it.

The ranger said the following day would be nice and we were hoping it would be, true to his word after a very wet rainy night we had a glorious day with Torres Del Paine out on full show, although we were not at the base our view was not to be scoffed at, actually it was world class.clap

IMG_6949 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

IMG_6950 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Get you fellas up close and personal to the middle spire

IMG_6952 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

This is the crap we have to go through so you guys have something to read :evil

IMG_6969 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Our plan was to climb Sierra Masle a small hill only 999 meters high which would offer us great views and it did, sitting on the top we watched the world go by enjoying peace, quiet and only lite winds from our sheltered lunch spot.

IMG_7028 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Laguna Azul (from the first photo) beneath us in the background with the spires starting to take cover

IMG_7010 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

We had a great feed of Berries too, very nice and quite sweet, these ones in the picture about 6 - 8 mm round

IMG_7019 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

By mid afternoon mum nature again showed her darstally evil intentions with snow cloud gathering over the spires, such was the display it prompted us to shake a leg and get moving off the exposed tops, this turned out to be a very good idea, we snuck in under the cover of sun with a few stray rain drops.:clap

It was not too long the wind really picked up again with rain laden clouds shrouding the valley and invading camp with gusto, this time we were behind glass with a hot chocolate in our hand saying "bring it on" .… such a nice feeling….”softy core” to the max.

The afternoon then spent in the shelter updating all the stupid shit we had been up too while enjoying the comfort of seats and hot chocolate etc.

Dinner tonight worth a mention, the Eco Camp people do lunch for people here and today they had a group of 8 who left a considerable pile of food untouched so the yogi bear Paulo who runs this camp gave it to us, beautiful salads, potatoes and a wicked sauce, some grated carrots and beetroot so we swapped some lollies and rum in return of his goodwill towards us.:clap

The chef at work preparing what turned out to be our tea in the end :rofl

IMG_6982 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

It is now 8.05 pm, Monday March the 16th (as at writing this) and I have just realized that this day in two months time we are home, seems such a world away but so close….not quite sure how to take it but the 1.75 liters of Flor De Caña is helping.

This little fella live near the camp, nice we dude but don't leave anything edible outside

IMG_7030 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

As at writing this I felt pretty much the same way

IMG_7031 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Meeting up with Juan and his girlfriend on our last night was a surprise, we meet them in Ushuaia and they had driven out to the park end to see the spires but to no avail the weather had packed it in completely with snow and rain and of course the signature strong Patablowia winds, unfortunately for them the night remained the same as did the morning so no views whatsoever meaning we escaped Torres Del Paine in bad weather.

...back to Argentina now.

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

Having enjoyed Torres Del Paine and hiked the L routes (Losers ), seen the spires, enjoyed the sun, wind, rain, wind, snow, wind and wind it was time to leave, we had done everything we had wanted too and the weather was bad and had settled in, good timing to go, thank you Torres Del Paine and the yogi bears for your help.:clap

Too much wind for this little car!!...glad we were not riding here when this happened

P1240367 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

P1240369 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Further up the road was another damage vehicle that has slide out and smacked into harder things too :eek1:eek1

Heading out we say goodbyes and left through the small Cerro Castillo border, very calm and quiet, very easy, the way it should be.

As we exited Chile and Torres Del Paine we exited the rain, this was welcome as we had been camping with four night of varying degrees of rain at night and during the day but there was a price to pay…

Destination El Calafate, nice for a change but back to siestas and petrol ques or no petrol.:huh

Today turned out to be a our epic wind day (our price to pay for no rain), bloody unbelievable and even more unbelievable we did not go to ground, on several occasions we were blown over the centerline, across the road and into the gravel, on a gravel road section we went right across the road and left it, lucky Maya is an Enduro based machine as we did some unplanned off-roading, bush bashing and back out up and onto the road.:rofl

272 km complete, the last 40 odd km I am just hanging on, my helmet cheek cushions making me do fish face impressions and my sunnies digging into my nose due to my helmet trying to corkscrew my head, it was uncomfortable but the end was in sight.

So windy here and bitterly cold, no trees to show the force, just me holding onto Maya so she didn't have a rest

P1240375 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

For a day of this length of ride I am spent, we are supposed to be meeting Juan and his girlfriend however on their 250 I don’t think we will see them today, we have plans to do the Perito Merino Glacier together which would be cool. :clap

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

The famous Glacier, heading outa town we back-roaded it to our campsite some 30km from the park entry, Laga Roca was our destination, not the expensive camp but the free one just along a bit.:clap

IMG_7053 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

The camp, your ticket to a stunning free camp space

IMG_7057 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

I can't believe why they won't let red motorcycles in around here ... some weird shit in this place ... just as well ours is orange and brown rofl

IMG_7054 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Arriving at the site we picked a camp that had some wood as we had a big mofo piece of beef to do an asado

Having time to go for a walk we took the opportunity to look around and take the place in, the weather although meant to be fine was cutting in with snow laden cloud....ouwh yes and the temperature plummeting fast :eek1

Making a fire and getting organised for our cookup I found some more wire so made our asado net smaller in the openings so the sausies wouldn't fall through to an ugly death :rofl

For the first time in nearly three years we finally got to use our tarp as the rain set in for keeps, making the most of our new found shelter fud was consumed and rum drunk...quite a bit too of both.:wink:

In preparation for loose skywater

IMG_7060 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Check it out bro we even got a picnic table!!!

IMG_7063 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Waiting for the fire to burn down a bit

IMG_7061 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr


For this clap ... half a mammoth :evil

IMG_7062 by twomotokiwis, on Flickr

Some neighbours moved in and were speaking english so we went over and paid a visit, turns out they were neighbours...Ozzies so chats all round, their firewood supply was skinny so we grabbed the big piece we had and bought it over like good neighbours do...good times in front of a warm fire.:clap

Good times again around a campfire.....you can't be good old cavemanism and grog rofl

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere

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Cheers Andi & Ellen .... https://twomotokiwis.blogspot.com/ Two Moto Kiwis Alaska - Argentina - April 2012 -> Somewhere