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Route Planning Where to go, when, what are the interesting places to see
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #1  
Old 20 Mar 2016
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Caucasus - June 2016

After the Around the World in 83 days (October to December 2013) and the serious accident in the Canadian Rockies (head-on collision on a motorcycle against two deer at 150 km / h), this year I began again to travel "seriously."
In June I will be in the Caucasus.
I programmed a maximum of 29 days, but probably will be less.
He will start as usual from my house (Lecce-Italy), through the Balkans, Turkey and I will arrive in Georgia.
I will cross, in order:
1) Georgia
2) Abkhazia
Georgia
3) South Ossetia
Georgia
4) Armenia
5) Nagorno Karabakh
Armenia
Georgia

6) Azerbaijan
7) Russia
After Russia, to return to Italy, I will pass Ukraine (have already passed several times from Belarus and I want to travel a new road), then Hungary, Slovenia., Italy.
Total about 12,000 km, 15 States., 20 boundaries.
Draft of the path in the Caucasus.


The Caucasus is a "hot" area and are aware of the risks. I have different information (other travelers, consulates, internet ...), but the situation is constantly changing and it is best to check again.
The critical components are especially some borders and visas (remember that I am an Italian citizen), in particular, this should be the situation:
1) Georgia-Abkhazia. It is only allowed through Zugdidi (entry and exit).
2) Georgia-South Ossetia. Is only allowed through Gori (entry and exit).
3) Armenia-Azerbaijan. Closed.
4) Nagorno Karabakh - Azerbaijan. Closed and Azerbaijan does not see signs of the passage in Nagorno Karabakh.
5) Azerbaijan-Russia. Open, but there are no offices for insurance and for currency exchange.
6) Russia-Ukraine. Closed in the south for the war in the Ukrainian separatist regions of Donetsk and Lugansk, I plan to cross the Russia-Ukraine border in the north, near Sumy and Hlukhiv (so north of Kharkiv), on the main route to Kiev.

"Hot" is also the Russian Caucasus, particularly Dagestan (there will come from Azerbaijan) and Chechnya (which will cross quickly).

So you will need a visa to:
1) Abkhazia (consulate United Kingdom, Germany, Greece)
2) Armenia (to be done at the border or in Italy), multiple inputs
3) Nagorno Karabakh (Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Nagorno-K.)
4) Azerbaijan (in Italy)
5) Russia (in Italy)

The problem, I think, are especially seen for Nagarono Karabakh and Abkhazia.
- The visa for Nagorno Karabakh me procure alone in Nagorno Karabakh (at their Ministry of Foreign Affairs). The visa for Nagorno Karabakh will give me on a separate piece of paper, because, if the Azeris see it in the passport does not let me in. After visiting the Nagorno Karabakh (avoiding the bombs), I shall return to Armenia. I think I'll be as if I'd never come out from Armenia, officially, so do not put me a second stamp in the passport, or when I go out from Armenia to the Nagorno Karabakh conflict, or when returning to Armenia from Nagorno Karabakh (could cause problems when within Azerbaijan).
- The other problem, according to me more complicated to solve, is the visa for Abkhazia. I understand that the issue of diplomatic representations abroad, but can not find a consulate / embassy in Italy (because it is not recognized by any state, except Russia); There are representatives of Abkhazia in the United Kingdom, Germany, Greece (and a few other states). I understand that the consulate in the United Kingdom also accepts email request. How to do?

I also have some doubts about the practicability of the roads in some regions.
1) The mountain area of Svaneti, Georgia: dirt road maybe not entirely feasible, even for Snow in June (I drove my Gold Wing also on dirt roads and dilapidated, but it's still a half a ton of motorcycle road ).
2) The Georgian Military Highway, from Gori to the Russian border, often subject to landslides or snow.
3) In the north of Nagorno Karabakh: if the military will allow me and if the road will be passable.
4) The mountain villages in Quba (Azerbaijan): if the road towards Xinaliq will be viable.

I ask you if you have recent news that confirm or modify those that I have about the "hot" areas of my trip, in particular Abkhazia, South Ossetia, Nagorno Karabakh, Dagestan, Chechnya, Russia-Ukraine border. And for the practicability of the roads indicated before
And confirmations regarding visas, in particular how to achieve what for Abkhazia.

Thank you
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Old 20 Mar 2016
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Good luck, is it your challenge to look after the most difficult border passages, or just you're interested in those areas. I am myself, but I'm also a bit withholding: I want to travel and no problems.
You can find an interesting american TV-reportage about those countries somewhere on the Hubb. Both sides opinions!
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Old 20 Mar 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horserider View Post
Good luck, is it your challenge to look after the most difficult border passages, or just you're interested in those areas. I am myself, but I'm also a bit withholding: I want to travel and no problems.
You can find an interesting american TV-reportage about those countries somewhere on the Hubb. Both sides opinions!
I do not trouble me I go to look for them, but the reasons are these:
1) I was with my Gold Wing motorcycle in 82 States http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/stati.htm I've been all over Europe and then the Caucasus is the only place near where I was not. In America I will go there next year.
2) If there is a ban, I want to overcome it. I can not stand the access prohibitions; I think all travelers should be free to go anywhere, with reasonable permits. So if a site is forbidden without reasonable cause, and I want to go there, I will find a way to go. Likewise I was all over the Middle East (in 2010), although Syria forbade those who had been in Israel to enter Syria.
3) With proper planning, the situation study and travel experience, the danger level is acceptable; but no more than to cross the Pakistan alone, as I did in 2013.
4) The Caucasus is interesting to visit, like nature, history and people.
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Not sure where you have been getting this information from, but a couple of points:

You cannot enter South Ossetia from Georgia.You can only enter from Russia. I did this in 2010 in my car and it's a very nice trip.

Abkhazian embassies in the UK, Germany, Greece?? Where did you get this idea? None of those countries recognise Abkhazia as a country, so of course there are no embassies there. In 2010 I got an entry permit over the internet from the Abkhazian Foreign Affairs Ministry and then got a visa in Sukhum (Abkhazia). You can only enter Abkhazia from Zugdidi, or from Russia.

There is a new asphalt road to Mestia (Svaneti). Beyond is dirt tracks which I doubt are really suitable for such a heavy bike.

Nagorno Karabakh is great to explore with your own vehicle. Many areas are officially off-limits, but I found that nobody checked and I drove all around the area without problems. Many of the roads are in quite poor condition, but nothing too bad. The road along the Iranian border is a very interesting (shocking) drive.

Ingushetia, Chechnya, Dagestan are some of the most interesting parts of the Caucasus, I highly recommend visiting.

The road from Quba to Xinaliq is asphalt and fine for a bike.

Perhaps you are interested in a write-up of some of my trips in the Caucausus here:

Azerbaijan, Georgia, Abkhazia:

Stage 19 – Azerbaijan, Georgia & Abkhazia: The South Caucasus | EurasiaOverland

Adygeya, Karachayevo Cherkessia, South Ossetia:

Stage 20 – Russia & South Ossetia: The North Caucasus [1/2] | EurasiaOverland

North Ossetia, Ingushetia, Chechnya, Dagestan:

Stage 20 – Russia & South Ossetia: The North Caucasus [2/2] | EurasiaOverland

Good luck.
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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From 2015 it is possible entry in South Ossetia from Georgia. It is wrote on internet site of italian embassy in Georgia. I wrote to italian consulate and they answered: ok, no problem.
Other things, tomorrow.
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Hi. According to the recent information you cannot enter Abkhazia from Georgia using personal transport because the crossing bridge over Inguri river is closed for auto/moto traffic.
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by rsapovsky View Post
Hi. According to the recent information you cannot enter Abkhazia from Georgia using personal transport because the crossing bridge over Inguri river is closed for auto/moto traffic.
And it is possible enter in Abkhazia from Russia using personal transport (motorcycle)?
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Russia recognized Abkhazia as an independent state, so it makes things a little easier. Yes, it's possible to enter AB from Russia using private transport. However it's better to double-check the issue because all official information concerns Russian-registered vehicles (Russian registration plates, Russian driving license)
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by rsapovsky View Post
Russia recognized Abkhazia as an independent state, so it makes things a little easier. Yes, it's possible to enter AB from Russia using private transport. However it's better to double-check the issue because all official information concerns Russian-registered vehicles (Russian registration plates, Russian driving license)
I have no other way to control. For this I ask information here.
I ask you for help to know if, as a "foreign" (Italian) I can get into Abkhazia from Russia with my bike (Italian), with international driver's license (Italian).
You're sure I can not come from Georgia? Have you heard how recent?
Obviously, if I have to get into Abkhazia from Russia, I'll make a Russian multiple-entry visa, because I'll have to enter Russia 2 times.
I have no trouble making 1000 kilometers more to get into Abkhazia, but I have to be reasonably safe.
Thank you
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Old 21 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland View Post
Not sure where you have been getting this information from, but a couple of points:

You cannot enter South Ossetia from Georgia.You can only enter from Russia. I did this in 2010 in my car and it's a very nice trip...
On the website of the Italian Consulate in Georgia (Disposizioni georgiane sulle restrizioni all’ingresso e alle attività imprenditoriali di cittadini stranieri nelle regioni separatiste dell’Abkhazia e dell’Ossezia del Sud ) and the site of the Italian Foreign Ministry (Dettaglio - Viaggiare Sicuri) is clearly written that (I translate from Italian): "the entry of foreign nationals in Abkhazia and South Ossetia (including the airspace, territorial waters and the exclusive economic zone in accordance with the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea) it is only allowed through Zugdidi (for Abkhazia) and Gori (for ' South Ossetia)."
Maybe your information is out of date (they are of 2010, the year of your trip?). I would be grateful if you had other updated information. Thank you.
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Old 22 Mar 2016
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I'm skeptical that the 'border' between Georgia and South Ossetia has opened. I don't trust information from embassies. Try, but be prepared to go via Russia. In 2014 I was at the Georgia - South Osstia 'border' and spoke to a border guard, who assured me itwas not possible to enter. If you really have a chance to enter, you will also need permission from the South Ossetian authorities (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) to enter. The drive from Russia crosses the Transcaucasian highway and is a very beautiful journey, worth it if you have a multi-entry Russian visa.

For Abkhazia, it is fine to enter from Russia, but you cannot go further into Georgia proper, so you need to return to Russia.
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Old 22 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland View Post
...
Abkhazian embassies in the UK, Germany, Greece?? Where did you get this idea? None of those countries recognise Abkhazia as a country, so of course there are no embassies there. In 2010 I got an entry permit over the internet from the Abkhazian Foreign Affairs Ministry and then got a visa in Sukhum (Abkhazia). You can only enter Abkhazia from Zugdidi, or from Russia.
...
There are no official embassies, but there are diplomatic representatives: Министерство Иностранных дел Республики Абхазия I know that Abkhazia is not officially is not officially recognized almost anyone, but I do not care the formality, but the substance.
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Old 22 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland View Post
... If you really have a chance to enter, you will also need permission from the South Ossetian authorities (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) to enter. The drive from Russia crosses the Transcaucasian highway and is a very beautiful journey, worth it if you have a multi-entry Russian visa.
...
I have no problem to get a multiple-entry visa russia, but the permission of the authorities of South Ossetia, to those who ask? In Italy, in Ossetia, located where the office? I may ask from Italy before I leave?
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Old 22 Mar 2016
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Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland View Post
...
There is a new asphalt road to Mestia (Svaneti). Beyond is dirt tracks which I doubt are really suitable for such a heavy bike.
...
How bad is the road? Worse than these roads or better?
My travels in Kazakhstan


and Nepal, always with my Honda Gold Wing 1500.
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Old 22 Mar 2016
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Bongiorno again.
Regarding border between ABH/Georgia and AB/Russia. From Georgian side you can enter ABH only as pedestrian. Period.
They allow transport traffic only for local ABH cars with permits.
From Russian side you can enter ABH using own transport. Border crossing name is PSOU. You will need bike registration papers, driving license, travel passport. If bike registered on somebody else you would need notarized power attorney letter stating that you can ride the bike and can take it out of Italy.
When you cross the border they will charge you some money for crossing and medical insurance (numbers always changing, amounts are small).
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