Holamigos,

I just arrived in Mexico City, thinking next stop Acapulco on Monday or Tuesday. I spent 413 pesos on road tolls from Veracruz today. Some online research suggests the Acapulco road will be over 500 pesos. That's more than I spent on gas and several times my daily budget. It's more pesos than kilometres!

I read that there is a free road taking the same route. Any idea if it's safe? Anyone with local knowledge care to share some wisdom? :-)

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Love & joy - Callum.

I think it is safe and much prettier. It will take longer and you will go through a lot of little towns. The toll road is sometimes in very badshape shape and very expensive. I would and have gone on that road on several occasions so don't worry.

A little while later, the trip report...

Wow, what a road. 8 hours of non stop twisting and turning. Switchbacks, double switchbacks, curves like I've never ridden before. Then hundreds of topes (speed bumps), villages, confusion, completely nonsensical signage, it was a great day's riding. :-)

Navigating was a little confusing. I remember at one point seeing a sign that read Acapulco 100km, then a few clicks down the road the next sign read Acapulco 102km. This is Mexico...

Leaving Mexico City I went south on Insurgentes. I whipped round the city on the Perifico and picked up Insurgentes on the south side of town. From there I followed signs for Cuernevaca, that part was easy. Once I got to Cuernevaca I took a wrong turn.

I was avoiding the road signed Acapulco Cuota (toll). That was my mistake. I had to get on the toll road for a few clicks. It seems like there's only one road leaving Cuernevaca going south. I didn't pay any tolls, and the exit for Acapulco Libre was well signed. From there on south, most of the signs were for Acapulco if I remember correctly.

There's a toll tunnel on the way into Acapulco. I think it was quite expensive. I turned right just before the toll booth and followed a road over the hill that landed right in downtown Acapulco and cost nothing.

If you're considering doing this route, I highly recommend the free road (libre). It took probably twice as long as the toll road, cost 500 pesos less, and was a whole lot of fun. I was exhausted when I made it to Acapulco, which was just fine, I stopped one night and got out of that place as quickly as my KLR would carry me! :-)

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Love & joy - Callum.