It's not really a direct response to your question, but the bits I saw in Western China back on my trip were Dali and Lijiang. Mostly internal tourist destinations, but still fairly interesting places. Took the overnight train from Kunming to Dali and a bus from Dali to Lijiang - my understanding is that they've since built a fast rail line out of Kunming to both of them.
If I had a motorcycle and the freedom to travel around? I guess Tibet would be the obvious choice, but also the karst areas in the center.
But yeah, out of all my Asia travels, China is the country I am least drawn to return to.
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