Yes, I recommend you read the Bradt Guide to Kazakhstan by Paul Brummel, by far the best guide to the country.
And regards roads, the following website is pretty useful
Kazakhstan Travel and Tourism | Caravanistan
Regards self-driving:
Driving in Kazakhstan | Caravanistan
I've spent over three months over five visits exploring Kazakhstan and found a lot of interesting sights and wonderful scenery. But many people just drive through and call it boring. Admittedly, north-western and the far north of Kazakhstan is pretty flat and dull, but there is lot worth visiting elsewhere. See pictures (of mine) here:
Western, Southern, Central, South-western Kazakhstan:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1136194...heKazakhSteppe
Northern Kazakhstan - Picture 13 onwards:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1136194...EurasianSteppe
North-eastern Kazakhstan, Altai Mountains - Picture 52 onwards
https://picasaweb.google.com/1136194...AltaiMountains
South Kazakhstan - First 8 pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1136194...anTheSilkRoad#
What you get out of Kazakhstan depends on how much effort you make to see stuff. If you are one of those bikers that just wants to ride in a straight lines as far from home as quickly as possible, then Kazakhstan will be boring.
A few personal highlights:
- Altai Mountains, just stunning, no tourists at all, in the far North-east, forming the Russian border:
- Petroglyphs at Tamgaly, Eshkiolmes and other places, some of the best in Central Asia
- Dzhungarsky Alatau Mountains between Tekeli and Zharkent in the South-east:
- Camping and hanging out with fishermen at the Kokaral Dam, North Aral Sea
- Magnificent Timurid Mausoleum at Turkestan, (and nearby abandoned Silk Road city of Sauran)
- Watching a rocket launch from Baikonur, just standing at the main road at the right time
- Mausoleums and beautiful steppes (Saryarka, a UNESCO WHS) around Ulytau and Zhezqazghan in Central Kazakhstan. This mausoleum is said to be of Jochi Khan, first son (unless he was not the real father...) of Chinggis Khan):
I'm going back this year again to check out the last part of Kazakhstan which I have not seen - the South-west.
Now don't just tell me you want to ride Uralsk - Qarabutaq - Kostanai -Astana - Pavlodar.
Daniel