And we're back!
First, what a fantastic place! There is only one criticism you can level at Norway, but we'll come to that in a second. Luckily we've had two weeks of literally unbroken sunshine. A few days spent meandering through the fjords, then the run up the E6 to the Nordkapp, midnight sun on the summer solstice, and back via the Lofotens. The scenery is stunning, turquoise fjords, snow capped mountains, endless forests, spectacular waterfalls, quaint fishing vilages, it just goes on and on. Everyone spoke English, was very helpfull and genuinely pleased to see us.
Now for the stats;
* We covered 5600km (3500mi) over 12 days, from Bergen to the Nordkapp and back.
* Speed limits are low, especially in the countryside. Our longest day clocked up 720km (450mi), but it was hard work. Work on covering 500km (300mi) a day and you'll have some time to stop and stare.
* Everything was expensive, period.
* We were staying in log cabins at campsites, and generally paid NOK 300 per night. They are plentiful, but you can phone in advance and book. We carried the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet, which had more than enough campsite suggestions. We didn't book any accomodation in advance.
* Fuel cost anywhere between NOK 8 and NOK 10 per litre of unleaded. Budget on NOK 9.25 and you won't go far wrong.
* Your fuel economy will improve drastically! I am used to getting 290km (180mi) to reserve on my Africa Twin. In Norway we were getting to 400km (250mi) on a regular basis. On one day we got over 480km (300mi) from one tank of fuel.
* Generally there are no tolls on roads, except in a few places. The subsea tunnel to the Nordkapp is one of them, expect to pay NOK 68 each way. (Then feel sorry for the campervans who pay NOK 480 each way!)
* Entry to the Nordkapphalen is NOK 185, and your ticket is nominally valid for 2 days, although if the weather is crap they'll let you back in up to 4 days later.
* There were only 2 days when we didn't take a ferry, although you could plan your route to avoid them. However the ferries run frequently and you don't book in advance. Costs varied between NOK 30 and NOK 50 for a 20 to 45 minute crossing.
* The ferry from the Lofotens to Bodo cost NOK 205 for bike and rider.
* Getting into Bergen on a weekday costs NOK 10 per bike.
* A loaf of bread in a supermarket will cost at least NOK 10, and usually closer to NOK 20.
* A 1.5 litre bottle of CocaCola, 7Up, Fanta, etc. costs about NOK 16.
* Beer cans and plastic bottles are recyclable. Take them back to the supermarket and get NOK 2.5 for the plastic and NOK 1 for the tins. Every little helps!
* A half litre of
in a bar costs about NOK 50. The cheapest we paid was NOK 39, which was a student deal.
* Eating pizza in a restaurant will cost from NOK 75 upwards. You won't struggle to find a simple meal costing NOK 200 each. Your basic meal in McD*****lds costs NOK 65.
* Don't speed! Your bank manager will hate you forever. Using a hypothetical example, cough, if you're caught doing 91kph (56mph) in a 80kph (50mph) zone, then you've the choice of a NOK 1700 fine or 5 days in jail. The speed traps are purely for revenue generation, not safety. Unless you've got X-ray vision you will not spot them.
* Bike shops and mechanics generally don't work on the weekend. However they will come out for fee. We picked up a puncture rolling off of the boat on a Saturday. Someone came out, took the wheel away and replaced the tube for a cost of NOK 1000.
* There are plenty of tunnels, many of which are over 1km in length. The tunnels are very cold, and in some it is possible for fog to develop. Most tunnels are lit, so wearing sunglasses isn't too much of a problem.
* Generally road surfaces are fantastic. There's very little overbanding, no manhole covers, no cats eyes, and no potholes. However bends frequently tighten in radius, so take care when keeled over.
* Make sure your tyres and brake pads are in good condition. If you're going for more than a week, take spare brake pads. It's a land of hairpin bends and steep mountain passes.
Okay that's all I can remember at the moment. I'll be putting some photos on the website soon, along with some route and cost information. I'll post back here when that's done so people can check exact costs for ferries and cabins and things.
If you're going to Norway, I wish you the best of luck with the weather. If it's not already on your list of places to do, add it now! Even with the enormous cost of a trip, there is nothing else to fault about the place. Enjoy.
Iain