Hi there
just came the road from Uyuni to Chile, now it's all closed because of snowstorm!
Okay, here are the details (we're riding 2 Transalp, not the best for dirt, and after 20'000km on this trip with some dirt, still not the most experienced riders either)
- Sucre-Potosi: 3hrs, nice curvy road, all paved
- Potosi-Uyuni: all paved until the last 20km, these are under construction for over 3months now, but the dirt road is in okay condition
- uyuni: stay at Hostal Maryth /Marith?, 3 blocks south of the Mainplaza, we paid 60 Bol each for a matrimonial, 10 extra for the bikes, then you can get free towls and toilet paper, hehe, nice tv and american breakfast included. It's pretty cold at night, so we slept in sleepingbags on the bed -
- salar de uyuni: 20km north, in cachani, is the entrance to the salar, bad dirt road, washboard-style, but once on the salar, feel free to get lose!! Pay attention to the few holes where even cars can break into the salt water, we road with a compas straight 20kms west, camped on the salar and it was just a surreal experience, no sound, no nothing, just the plain white , the sky and yourself; bring nails to tag your tent...
- uyuni-villa mar (ca.150km): we have 3 maps for that region and none is any good. ask the locals, but the best advice you get is from the tour guides, in uyuni alone there are 70 tour operators cruising the area daily! Uyuni -San Cristobal: great fast dirt, have lunch at the mercado, people are most friendly there! Last option for gas!!
San Cristobal-Alota, nice road, don't miss the intersecion to Villa Mar, 1km out of Alota there is a damadged yellow sign saying Sancrato (or something); on the way the the road gets pretty bad, some water crossings with rocks and tiny bridges, if crazy, take the bridge, we almost dropped the bikes twice! They're building bridges, i think, the concret thing is there already, but no one working... Bolivia. We camped on the way, 20km before Villa Mar, freezing cold!! But you can make a fire with roots and dry bushes. There is basic accomodation in Villa Mar, we sould have done that
- Villa Mar-Laguna Colorada (ca.110km): The road gets very bad, sand, washboard etc. There are often alternative roads, just follow the best one in the correct direction and ask the tour guides when passing. Right before the Laguna Colorada there you enter the parc, they want 150 Bol each. Ride around the Laguna for Logging, very basic, but warmer then outside. 30 Bol each, 15 extra for a hot shower, food just for the tours, basic shop, nothing nice anyway. (if you have veggies left which you can't bring into Chile, don't give them to the guys of the hospedaje, they won't thank you, high on coca anyway) :confused1:
- Laguna Colorada-San Pedro de Atacama (ca 160km): The road is very challenging, it was also freezing cold and started to snow somewhere halfway to Laguna Verde. There is a very nice Saltflat with a hot terma, but we didn't stop as we wanted to reach Chile badly. Some sand, a few washboard sections, we just rode in 1rst and 2nd gear. The bikes had problems with the oxygen so we couldn't go faster anyway. The following depended on the weather conditions: The wind was tricky, too. At Laguna Verde there is a slightly better hospedaje, people were stuck there (and sent back to Sucre!) because the Pass was closed. The guardaparque adviced us not to ride any further but it was snowing, nothing frozen yet, so we rode on.
Some real deep snow until the bol.border, where they told us to turn and get the stamp for the bikes at the Aduana in Achapata (or something, there is a sign on some point after the salt lake saying 5kms east). Well, after some discussion they asked for 15 Bol. and the topic was solved. I guess you can get this stamp also in Uyuni, but I'm not sure. Or pay, or wait till the price drops, or go back to get that dam stamp.
After that the road got even worse, we broke into holes in the middle of the street several times, due to the snow covering them. After 5km we reached the paved road from Paso Jama (that took us more than 1hr), where the busses usually ride to Argentina. Road frozen, and steep down. But ridable - - 40km to San Pedro where we were greated by sun and a pissed police officer, because, of course, the border is closed so it was his day off.
Because it's winter now, noboday can tell when the borders open again, they have no snow machines or anything to clear the way - I hope you get better weather if you ride that road! The officials don't give a sh** about that, didn't even ask us about the conditions, they say if you ride, it's your risk, so they don't even show interest on how it looks up there---
It's not easy, but if you get sun, enough cloths, fuel, cash and food, some wine for the nights
and good humour, it's definitly worth it!
Good luck, suerte!
.katharina.