DAY #3

Yesterday was going low to sea level; today is going high into the Andes. The objective is the border with Argentina at a 15,000ft. pass -- Paso Del Agua Negro. Heading east and going higher I found a nice road. An empty road. Towards where I am going, with the last vineyard hugging the slopes...


Towards where I came from...


Pavement ends shortly after the above pics. I see no one coming or going. No more towns, no more structures. Just me, the KTM, dirt/rock road, and accompanying -- a glacial mint green stream and electrical lines -- my guess... power for the higher border crossing. But one begins with vague thoughts as the ascent continues, then the vagueness finds clarity as one begins to consider what happens if something happens. Crap. I left the tire puncture repair kit at home. I haven't seen a soul. I'm alone. It is winter in the Andes. No cell coverage. What if the bike has a problem. What if I get distracted and have a brief but crippling excursion into the rocks. Anything preventing a way back on two wheels and I'm hosed, marooned. From vagueness, to clarity, to decision. I stop. Gonna turn around. I take a pic...


But I purposefully stop where it looks like some form of distant habitation. I walk across a wooden bridge crossing the glacial stream and perhaps it is a goat herder's camp...


Inside this structure one can see smoke stained rocks from a fire...


On the descent back to faint civilization a pause when seeing these goats, like cattle following a leader, they're all heading up the rocks. Thus, perhaps a goat herder's camp seen up higher...


Down lower I pass through the town of Vicuna, coincidently the namesake for the animals seen yesterday. Have developed an enjoyment of small towns, regardless of country. Bravely, or foolishly, I record a two minute ride through the center of town. The cam isn't mounted yet and I'm lazy, so I take the gloves off and press record while sitting on the gloves, holding the cam in one hand, riding with the other on the throttle...

Passing Through Vicuna - Video

The video starts after watching a game of football/soccer. No net in the goals. If you're scored upon you go fetch the ball. What incentive...


I pause at a small store for a snack lunch in Vicuna...


The owner makes pastries and this one is excellent as I stand and eat out of my makeshift table...


An image while munching away, looking one direction...


And looking at the store I'm parked next to...


Following the kind of lunch I like, I find a section of pavement I like west of Vicuna. The mount is placed. The cam is attached. Four minutes of a delightful road is here:

A Chilean Curvy Road Scoot on the KTM - Video

You know, I'm seeing serious roadside memorials throughout Chile. I mean, some are absolutely dedicated if not monumental to a deceased loved one. I can't figure out if they are placed at random along a road of if they mark a spot where an unfortunate accident happened. In the States one will find a small memorial where there was an accident, but I'm seeing these elaborate displays on the loneliest of roads with no traffic, and if traffic, road conditions prohibiting any kind of lethal speeds. Any ideas? Here's an example...


And then peering inside we see a photograph, fresh flowers, burnt candles, etc...

Maps show me another route to La Serena. The sun is lower, clouds are thickening, and we have a route from Las Rojas to Altovalsol. Some pavement, mostly dirt. Two minutes of a ride video in a rural Chile...

A Rural Town Ride - Video

A day of riding to remember.

DAY #4

I'm on a mission. 500km to Santiago. I want to get back. I want to navigate the big city, find the KTM dealer, unpack, get a taxi, get to the airport, relax, fly home.

Here's the last pic. The beach at La Serena before the return...


Some thoughts...
- Being a longtime GS owner I thought the KTM was outstanding. Loved the engine and stock exhaust note. Oooozed character. Got a kick out of just accelerating the thing. Handled all conditions superbly. FWIW, still adore the GS as well. Nice to have choices.

- This is another self-guided adventure/tour. More personal evidence after exploration rides in other places one can do this without a hand-holding tour. Can certainly see the benefits of a tour, but going it alone or with friends is certainly a very fine and attractive alternative. With the costs of some tours nowadays one could easily fund the airfare instead and save some serious cash. Plus there is a flexibility of going where and doing what when you want.

- Chile is a friendly place. I left my international power adapter behind at the KTM dealer with the unneeded luggage. When I asked the cabana owner if he happened to have one, he didn't, but left that night to buy me one!

- Chile is not a populated place. Extreme remoteness and desolation between cities. I went north out of Santiago to gain a few degrees of warmth. Can see a great ride south during their summer where things really get picturesque.

- Rural Chile gives one a much different perspective of culture and life versus the big city. True for many other places.

Good riding everyone.