Hi everyone,

Just a reminder about the crooked police just north of Lima, about 80 miles north of Lima if I remember correctly.
I had read about this place on the Hubb and was prepared. Sure 'nough they saw me coming. I was doing the rediculously slow 30kph (about 18mph) long before I entered the puebla of which I can't recall the name, sorry.
Anyway, my spanish is decent. They flagged me down yelling and waving their arms in the air "infraction! infraction"! They said I was speeding. Then they pulled out some 'official' book of infractions and fines. They said the fine was $1,000.00! But, if I paid on the spot I coould get by paying 'only 10%! Afterall, it was right there in the book.
I told them I wasn't speeding and had done nothing wrong. They then asked if I was traveling alone to which I stupidly replied that I was. I refused to budge. Then they asked for my passport. Again I refused to give it up, because then you truely are at their mercy.
They told me in that case I would have to leave my bike and all my gear there at the side of the road while we went 80kms back to the station house to sort this out.
There was no way I was leaving my bike on the side of the road, and they knew this. I was livid with anger. I told them i didn't have that much cash on me, they asked how much I had and I told them $30.00. They said the least they would except was $60.00.
Anyway, I ended up paying. I was furious and told them in spanish that they were crooked cops and that there was nothing worse than a crooked cop, this didn't faze them in the least.
I road away at 18mph, passed through the depressing puebla, and no less than ten minutes later another cop flagged me down as I was leaving the puebla, the same shit, running at me waving his arms so dramatically yelling "infraccion! infraccion"! I stopped, jumped off my bike, my 6'4" frame up against his 5'4" and proceeded to tear him a new asshole. He was totally taken aback and didn't know whether th shit or go blind. I called him a crook and told him if he wanted any money he'd better go see his friends at the othe end of the puebla! I then got on my bike and drove off, leaving him standing there with his lower jaw on the ground.
I don't recommend this tactic to anyone, in the end they've got the guns and you just know their superiors are getting a cut of the action so it wouldn't do much good to complain (I live in Mexico so I'm familiar with the mechanics of all this).
I'm just forwarding the story to relate my experience. I feel really bad for letting the side down. I know once one biker pays up it just makes it harder for the rest of us, but under the circumstances I fell I really had no choice. I later met a German biker who paid up $300.00!

Complain to there cheaf of police that you had to pay $1,000 fee 2 times and you did pay them on the spot in cash. This will get these con men fired or shot when they refuse to give there boss a 50% cut. At the vary least it will make them think before stopping another bike.

Greed is a wonderful weapon it can cut both ways.

No offence Jeff, but you have to wait the police out in my opinion. As frustrating as it is if you keep on hasseling them and lying to them (make sure you stick to your lies, (by telling them you had some money they knew you were willing to compromise)).

Tell them one really big lie and after every question they ask you tell them about the big lie again.

ie. I was robbed yesterday and the thieves stole all of my money and the pocket watch my grandfather gave me the day he died.


I am no expert and I know that every situation is different. Maybe paying a bribe is better than having a gun held to your head. (but not in my opinion)

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http://www.journeyrider.net Latin America blog (07-8)

Why did you pay?

Just wait them out. Tell them that you can all go to the nearest big city police station and sort it out there or otherwise nothing.

Refuse to give them your papers with the explanation that "you cannot be certain that they are real cops, so you will only do it at the station"

They will bitch and whine for a long time, but then they will let you go.

I agree with gg that you should tell that you have absolutely no money and that you wont get any till you meet your friends in the next big city.

Stand your ground and dont get angry...

Just dont pay, because now they will be even more persistent with the next traveller. You are making it harder for all the people who come after you by paying.

Next time better luck man.

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Peter Kongsbak
South East Asia, USA, Central and South America and Scandinavia.

I agree with gg that you should tell that you have absolutely no money

I disagree. Unless you've actually done something wrong, I would refuse to discuss the subject of money. If they persist explain you will happily pay down at the station where you can be issued a receipt.

I stick with "I've done nothing wrong...May I speak to the Comandante...Its wrong to pay here...etc. "

Saying you have no money implies you would pay them, is an obvious lie, and surrenders the moral high ground.

You can redeem yourself for paying the crooked cop by saying 3 Hail Marys and chewing out 2 more crooked cops.

I was livid with anger.

Sometimes anger works as in your second encounter but I would advise against it. Dealing with corruption is a chess match you always have to consider your next move. If you get angry and the guy is unimpressed then what? Try and steer the conversation to the subject of right and wrong. I'd even be hesitant to say "corruption" as it escalates the situation. I have waved down another officer and asked to be taken to the station. That worked wonders.

I feel for you man, I've been beaten a couple times by dirty cops. Bad feeling followed by bad vibes everytime you see a cop.

All the Peruvian cops I encountered South of Lima and in the mountains were great. Once they flagged me down to ask about road conditions and to find out if there were any accidents they should be attending to...Lol.

Methods for dealing with crocodile-smiling cops are like cures for hiccups - everyone has their own. After a West African masterclass, Peru was easy enough. But PD's right - if you lose your cool, splutter, and pay-up, then you make it exponentially harder for every traveller unlucky enough to follow in your tyre tracks.

I was stopped a couple of times on the Panamericana north of Lima, and the cops' attitude seemed speculative - bored, broke, looking for an angle. So I chatted, smiled, shared my smokes, treated inappropriate requests as lads' jokes, and made it clear that although I respected their toytown authority, I wasn't a chump, and never paid a centavo. A couple of times I flipped it - spotted a likely-looking cop before he spotted me and stopped, said 'hullo' and asked for directions. Makes it double difficult for the cop to swap heads from 'friendly' to 'predatory'. This double-bluff works especially well when you don't have the right documents, and got me through the Ecuadorean border with expired papers.

Maybe the best tip is this - never let on that you're in a hurry. If they are breaking the rules, they don't want to get spotted by the shift-change or by superiors. So stall. In Guinea, when I reached an impasse, I'd sit down by the bike with a book. Mates of mine in a Landy used to get the kettle on. And LaserJock's right - be very wary about using the word 'corupcione' - escalates, insults, and keeps it 'us and them'.

And as always, let's not get too disheartened by a couple of smalltown pigs running interference, let's not let a couple of irrelevant chancers stain a continent. These tales of wiggly tails shouldn't stop anyone enjoying Peru.

Suerte, Dan

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Que el cielo exista, aunque mi lugar sea el infierno...

Had the same problem, i think the name of the city was Huacho, about 200 or 300km north of Lima! They asked me for $300,- and i endet up paying 50,- Soles!

You shouldn't have paid him anything. If you were joking about the 50 soles, that was meant for all the other guys that broke and paid. I totally agree with Dan, make it seem like you've got all day if not days. I once started setting up camp. That did it. Sucked having to pack it all up in a hurry, but the feeling of winning the willpower contest was satisfying.

Honestly guys. STOP PAYING THESE DICKHEADS!!!!!!!!!

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Tacos Tyring Travels.com

My strategy for dealing with corrupt officials at border crossings or traffic stops, etc.:

I have used this procedure is a number of countries ranging from C/S Am, Central Asia and Southern Asia and in all but one situation, met with success. I payed a bribe once in Tajikistan, but this was largely due to the actions of my traveling partner (ignored a cop trying to flag us over).

I go through a series of demeanors in stages.

First:
Be respectful, happy and enthusiastic. Always start with a cheerful greeting in the local language. Introduce yourself formally. Ask for their names, and shake hands (as per custom). Enthusiastically, tell them how much you love their country and admire the people there. You can also compliment their town and ask if there is a good place to stay or eat. They will be much less likely to try for a bribe if they think you may be around for awhile. For borders and check posts, I learn some landmarks ahead and express my enthusiasm to see them. You do not need much in the way of language skills to communicate these things. Ask lot`s of questions and make small talk, directions, gas, weather etc. The longer you talk to a person the more they subconsciously begin to consider you as friend. This process happens very quickly, ask any car salesman. It also helps to offer any type of small gift, such as offering to share your water, a smoke, a small bit of food. Never leave a situation w/o your passport. Also, starting a digital photo session can help create a jovial atmosphere in many places. Don´t use an expensive, professional camera.

Try not to hand over your passport if you are not at a border. Some places you can offer a nice color copy, otherwise you can show your passport while holding on to it. Respectfully, explain that it does not belong to you, it is the property of your country´s government and you cannot surrender it w/o calling your embassy and getting their permission. This is indeed true and they will likely know it.

Generally, this will be enough to get you through. If not, and you get hit with refusals to continue or a bribe, apologize sincerely, and promise you`ll (slow down, fix your bike, get the right papers). Sometimes, if they have taken a liking to you, this will be enough. If not, many places you can try to offer a small gift, depending on the area, a package of cigs or a bottle of the cheap local liquor will be well received. Be explicit that it is a gift, not a payment for a fine (particularly effective in central Asia, where they will often reciprocate with a pen, photo or some such). Sometimes, it can help to act as if you have extremely little of their language or even English, in Asia I sometimes spoke in Spanish to make communication even more frustrating for them, they may soon give up.

Second:
If I continue to be pressed, I quickly change my countenance to very sad. I look at the ground and slowly shake my head in despair. This is particularly effective in in Asia, where they don`t like to feel responsible for changing someone`s mood for the worse. Tell them you have very little money and you are very far from home. Sit in a chair or on the ground as if you could spend hours pondering this terrible change of events. Don´t offer to go to the police station. If there are other people around, you can try asking for help. Pick older people that look local, especially well dressed businessmen. Attracting others attention, may make them uncomfortable and they may drop it. Don´t act as though you are in any hurry and be prepared to wait them out.

Third:
If it seems like waiting and sadness will not work, I will sometimes try to appear as though I am important and have connections. As a college professor, I have feigned that I am a visiting professor and need to contact the Chancellor at xyz University and he said to call if I have any problems. Real contacts are even better. Try to make them as you travel. If you meet any lawyers, important businessmen, community leaders, or government officials in your travels ask for their cards. This can be particularly effective in places like India, where someone of a higher class can truely wield some power others, but can be effective in other countries as well. Tell them you are going to xyz to teach, to volunteer, to visit a friend (that sounds somewhat important, an official, a professor, a large business owner). In any respect they will usually be more cautious of someone who sates he is traveling on business matters than simply as a tourist.

Some places you can have good results by showing them any official looking paper work you may have. You can often make very official looking documents from their country`s embassy`s website in your home country and bring them with you. Make sure most of the text is in a language they can`t decipher. I once used my international driver´s license, pointing out their country and neighboring ones, they had no clue what it was, so I made out it was an international University teaching credential.

Forth:
You can get mad. This will seldom get you anywhere and is not recommended. Still, if you take this tact, remain calm and professional, but deliberate and as though you intend to pursue the matter further. Ask for names and paperwork (receipts, ID´s). Be careful and use judgment in this event as it could compromise your safety.

Finally, do follow up when you get somewhere safe. If you end up paying or not, contact your embassy, other police departments and their department of tourism. Also, warn other tourists on the hubb and lonely planet thorn tree.

Remember, each situation is different and you have to remain focused on your goal. Sometimes, it can be better to consider your desired outcome, rather than on right or wrong. You really should not have to kiss their asses, but would you rather get going or stand up for your rights? Also, remember, your own personal safety can quickly become jeopardized in these delicate situations, remain calm and collected.

I hope this advice can help someone.

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India Himal, 3mo,2x; Kazak/Krygyz/Tajik, 3 mo; Kashi-Lhasa, China 219! 6 wk; Nepal, 4 days/trekked 55; Santiago-Ushuia-Cusco, 7 mo; Peru, 3 mo; Chile-Medellin 3 mo; Medillin-Arica, 3 mo

Nicely put Glasswave. That's worth printing out and taking for re-reading.

Kind regards

Nigel in NZ

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The mouth of a perfectly contented man is filled with . -- 2200 BC Egyptian inscription

+1

Very nice write up glasswave. I will definatly test some of these next time I have the chance. Personally I kinda enjoy these little "stand-offs" so it is good to have a few new tricks to use (-:

And I really agree with having anger as the last and worst solution.

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Peter Kongsbak
South East Asia, USA, Central and South America and Scandinavia.

I just got back from Peru and also had trouble with crooked cops. The first was at the border crossing coming into Peru by Lake Tititcaca from Bolivia. The second was in Puno. At the border we had gone through everything with the Aduana and then the Police wanted to register us and our motorcycles in their book. Then he just flat out asked to be paid. We said for what and he just kept insisting that we needed to pay him but we refused. He finally gave up as there were eating take out food that had been delivered to them and his was getting cold. In Puno I went straight through a intersection that was in fact marked with a turn only arrow on the road. I claimed that I did not have my paperwork with me as it was back at the hotel. He jumped on my bike and rode with me back to the hotel. There I gave him my international license but then he wanted to see the paperwork on the bike. Once he got that he felt safe that he had me. I do not speak much spanish so the guy from the hotel acted as my interpreter but I really did not need one to know what was going on. He kept insisting infraction, infraction, and waving his book at me but he would never write it up. I kept insisting that I would not pay. The guy from the hotel went to the cash drawer and got out two 10 solis notes and said that is what I needed. I kept saying that we would only pay at the police station and finally he said ok lets go to the police station. I said ok we will walk there. He said no I have to bring my bike as it might be impounded. I finally ended up giving him 10 solis as I had gone straight through a turn only lane. He would not take it but had me give it to the guy from the hotel. Then he gave me my paperwork back and he and the guy from the hotel went outside and that guy gave it to him. Pretty sneaky and he did not want anyone else in the lobby of the hotel as he kept trying to shake me down. Once some people came in to use the phone and things just kind of stopped till they left. Next time I will try to get more people involved to act as interpreter as that seems to scare them. I will also take some photos of them and ask for their names. I think they can be beat and I intend to report this to someone else as well. Just not sure who it should be. Any ideas on who we should report this to?

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Larry Davis

Nice write-up Larry; these things need to be posted.

Regarding problems to the north of Lima; I travelled up this way a few days ago and found that there were many police waving down trucks at the side of the road north of Chancay during the afternoon. Myself and another rider were stopped twice within a 20 minute period. On both occasions we took off our helmets and shook their hands warmly while smiling happily - this seemed to disarm them slightly. We then, without being prompted, presented our licences, vehicle titles, Aduana certificates of temporary importation and insurance, whilst making polite chat. One of the cops tried to suggest that we were speeding, but this argument was quickly dropped as were had been behind a huge truck carrying an oversize load.

The guy I was riding with was on an ex-police bike and told them that he was a police office too; this seemed to help. We took 'friendly' photos of them with the bikes, which they liked.

In both cases we were on our way within a few minutes and not a penny was paid.

hi Guys,
I am a Brazilian riding a xt600e yamaha and I have been travelling for 3 monhts now. Over this time I was approached by crooked cops three times : Argentina, 200 km from Salta ; Peru ( somewhere ) and now Mexico (Playa del Carmen).
The Argentinian told me I needed a first aid kit, which I knew was something crooked cops do there. I argued with him that it was only required for cars, and he was inflexible. He told me I would be able to pay the fine at any place though and he wanted 300 pesos ( 100 usd). I intentionally prolongued the conversation and showed I was very reluctant to concede. after he blatantly asked for money i said i would rather pay the money the official way and he let me go. funny thing is I met a group of Brazilians in Salta who were stopped at the same check point. He asked them money point blank just to ´paint the booth´.

In Peru they stopped for fast driving - much like they did with our friend above . They made up a whole scene, even jumping onto their truck while i was stopping, as if I was trying to evade them. I let them speak and said nothing for 5 minutes. After thata I told them that i was just visiting the country and did not want any problems. I did not show fear though.

I think if you keep talking and do not yield time run agains them. They are all aware about the internet and ramifications.
Yesterday I was approached by a policeman on a motorbike here in Playa del Carmen, close to Cancun. He wanted money. I again spoke to him for at least 20 minutes after which he agreed to give me a less hard penalty- the official way . however after we agreed on that he still wanted money , and started creating problems (to sell facilities) saying he would have to keep my license, etc. It was raining like hell. to tell you the truth I told him i did no feel comfortable but I would ´forget´ some money by the side of a near bench. For some reason he said he did not want me and let me go.
Well that was my experience so far. The problem with bribing these crooks is that they may increase their stakes by saying you tried to bribe them. it is a risky game.
Also yielling at them may work but also has its risks this type of people is not worth . They might find something else and create a lot of problem. In some other situations I mentioned I had spoken to their Consulate in Brazil, and that is always frightening to them.

Cheers. Carollo .