Wow!!! What a ride.
It started off easy. The road to Linden is in excellent condition, and no critters roaming about. Since I had no idea what lay ahead, I decided to stay overnight in Linden and tackle the dirt at 6.00 next morning. Excellent gravel, 30 feet wide, washboard, but otherwise good. I asked a trucker where to buy gas in Mabura Hill. He steered me to Peter and Ruth´s place on Mile 58. They sell gas from a barrel, provide simple meals, and allow you to sling your hammock in one of their gazebos overnight. This is an alternative to Linden.
From Mabura Hill on the road narrows. Still good gravel, but then sections of loose and deep sand. Aim for a track, left or right, and step on it. Speed will get you through. Think Sahara. We are now in dense jungle. The ferry over the Kurupukari river sails on demand. They don´t charge for motorcyles, but they don´t sail for motorcycles. You have to wait until a car or truck makes it worthwhile. In my case 2 hours later a truck released me from my misery. The road continues in fair shape on the other side of the river. Now for the first time we have wet spots. Soon big puddles from forest to forest. There is no escape. You gotta plow through. But first walk it, over on the left, back on the right, to find out what is under the dirty water. Wet feet are a side-effect. But better than giving the bike a drink.
At Annai is a good place to stay overnight, about 120 km from the ferry. The owner of the Lodge sells gas. Tank up. Still some 140 km to go to Lethem.
I thought that from now on it would be easy street. Never, ever think that! It was the worst section of the whole ride. The road runs through savannah, with virtually no drainage. There is still water all around, and on the road huge mud wallow, where the big trucks have done their thing. I hate mud. Almost went over several times, made a nice side-landing in the slushy stuff once. Got the bike up alright. Of course noone in sight to help. Saw only one vehicle all morning. It continues bad right into Lethem, even the bit of pavement they put down in town was lousy.
Hunting immigration and customs. Finally found the guy next to the policeman in the police station. He signed me out. The policeman signed my customs document, since the customs guy could not be found.
Now to another ferry, over the Takutu. Again on demand. It was a barge pushed by two guys in boats with outboard motors. Over to Brazil. Immigration signs me in. Then customs. But they have skipped out early for lunch. Come back at 14.00. The man thought that only two days in Brazil would not warrant making out another document. So he let me go. I don´t like this. But hang in there. The truth will be told tomorrow at the Venezuelan border of Santa-Helena. At least the road to Boa Vista, 118 km, was excellent.
So here ends the Amazon-Guyanas Loop. In retrospect, I´m glad I did it counterclockwise, rather than the other way. This mud at the beginning would have freaked me out. One bit of advice: Do it! But don´t do it in the Rainy Season.