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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



 
 
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Old 18 Jul 2007
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Location: Central Colorado
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Chilly Chile on Two Wheels - Images, Vid

From Chile last month. Four days to explore following business there. Images and videos in chronological order below.

It is winter in the southern hemisphere but temps are moderate in Santiago. 50's f were the daytime high. Almost like summer here at 9,000ft. in Colorado! Overcast conditions ruled the skies. Could have rented a BMW while in Santiago, but kinda like riding makes or models not well acquainted with. A KTM 990 ADV was available with panniers. Sweet. Made the reservation. Will note impressions Day #4 below.
On with the content.

DAY #1
Took a taxi to the dealer offering the KTM hire. Opened at 9:30a. By 10:30a I had completed the paperwork, loaded the panniers, left a suitcase behind, figured out the KTM basics, and was ready to face the crazy traffic. Here's the pic before departure...


Have done the "honey, can I stay a few days and see the country on two wheels" thing before. Many reports from varied places, like here (Alps) and here (Normandy).

Sometimes I ride a country far and wide, finding a place to stay each night. Sometimes I find a central location and go a different direction each day. Both work. For this adventure it was the latter. Sometimes there's just riding and riding, never stopping much to savor a place. Felt Chile was a place to pause, ride, pause, ride.

Gave consideration to staying in Santiago, but didn't want to fight the traffic every morning and evening. And you know, increasingly I'm finding big international cities having a lot of overlap. Oh sure there's differences, but one gets more of a taste for the distinct cultural flavor by getting out of Dodge. So La Serena on the coast, 500km north, was the destination, and would be the launch pad for the rides. Made a few wrong turns, but with some heavy duty multitasking... bike control, traffic, signs, espanol, etc. between the ears got the bike unscathed through the city to Hwy 5 north, The Pan American. If you ride this thing in South America, this is a glamorous section you'll experience...


Here's the first fuel stop. Gas stations have attendants and they fuel the vehicle for you. Though my spanish is minimal, no problem communicating. You know, regardless of country riding, if you can speak 2-3% of the language, and the other can speak 2-3% of your language, you can get by just fine....


Well, the preceding was the immensely exciting day #1. Ha! Just blasted up Hwy 5 to La Serena 300 miles away and at the first place I stopped, seeing some nice and clean cabanas, found my place to stay for three nights.

DAY #2
I knew I wanted to see the Pacific coast up close and personal. Hey, when in landlocked Colorado these kinds of experiences are more meaningful!

At Los Hornos we get closer to the water when the highway skirts the surf. Just had to stop. Picture probably doesn't show the scale, but the pounding waves and surf of this coast were the most fearsome I had ever seen. Inimidating. Enormous and loud..


Away from the cities and main highways, Chile is a place of unpaved roads. A bike like many of us ride here is ideal. While maps showed a nice solid road leading to the coast, once off the main highway north out of La Serena, it is an off road endeavor. Along the way to the coast, and miles from the highway I pause for a 40sec, 360 degree pan of the place. Not seeing anyone coming or going and no sign of humanity but for the road, felt like the middle of nowhere...

A Pause on the Road - Video

And from where the vid starts...


Well OK, later on there appear electrical lines and a common sight, even along main paved highways... horses, donkeys on or off to the side of the road...


On the outskirts of Los Choros. This was the finest weather day of the trip. The Pacific ocean is out in the haze on the horizon...


Closer to town...


You know, perhaps it is just fantasy thinking, me being a brave hombre on a big motorcycle, imagining I'm a sight rarely seen, then I come down to earth when I look at the entrance to this school on the town square and see Winnie the Poo and Sylvester/Tweety painted near the entrance...


Past town and further in an area of emptiness, as if riding in a giant bowl of oatmeal with cinnamon sprinkled on top, one comes across dunes. One can just sense there is big water nearby. One finds a place to ride through some sand, park, and ascend the dunes on foot. Looking back...


Down the other side and a lonely place as far as one can see, north and south, with just the birds and I...


I pause and record a 30sec vid where water meets land...

A Lonely Beach on the Pacific - Video

Have a habit or practice of bringing home a seashell or two from beaches around the world...


On the way to the next town I spot this herd of... well, I had to look it up on the web here: Animals of the Andes Appears to be vicunas. Not a frequently seen animal. Did a major zoom of the digital camera...


Passing through the town of La Higuera, I pause at the square for a snack. Had a nice time with a friendly but shy boy...


He was mesmorized by the bike. Took some pics. Extended a hand with some peso coins and he bravely walked over to me on the idling bike. Sweetest smile...


Returned to La Serena with the descending sun turning the Pacific into a giant piece of tin foil. From up high off the highway. A riding day not like many others...
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