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  #1  
Old 28 Dec 2010
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Preparing for the Carretera Austral

Hi Hubbers,

early part of january im looking to set off south down the austral on my Suzuki EN125. Yeah i know its small but size doesnt matter apparently!

So im going to try and get Knobblies for my bike instead of the road tyres in Puerto Montt - any advice or suggestions? Im hoping its possible to get these fitted as it will improve my bike over the gravel, particularly giving it much better grip.

Im looking to do the shorter ferry from hualaihue to Chaiten. Do you have to book ahead for this ferry and is it expensive? Im really struggling on info for this.

Id like to ride all the way down to Villa O'Higgins but still not sure if you can cross down there yet? I heard rumours on hear posted back in 2006 that they were planning on opening up a road? If i cant cross then where is the best place north of this to cross? Ill have to decide on whether i head down here or not depending on time.

Do people think its possible to ride the austral on such a small bike? Ive been doing ok on the deeper gravel around some of the national parks in Chile, just taking my time and all that. Thankfully my feet have less distance to the ground on such a small bike - plus i can lift the bike fully loaded on my own which has already proved useful on several occasions

Any advice would be great. Many thanks, Eddie!
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Old 28 Dec 2010
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I'll offer some vague answers, having been in that area last fall. I had a surprisingly difficult time finding tires in Puerto Montt--had to go up to Puerto Varas. You may do better...or not, but if you've got an alternative source for tires I'd grab it. Tires were also very expensive, and no one wanted to change them for me (only time anywhere in Latin America where this happened) or do other work on my bike.

Even if I knew more, how could I answer your question about tire availability if you don't say what sizes you need?

I don't know where the ferry you mention might be found, but I assume you're aware that everything has changed in Chaiten since the eruption (?). I know only of ferries to Quellon and Puerto Montt, but maybe there are others. The road now stops not far north of Chaiten, and there are no promises that section will be rebuilt.

The Carratera Austral is a pretty good road surface--only rare, short sections of loose ripio. There's no reason you should have any more trouble there than anyplace else. There are also a few steep sections, but really it's no big deal.

Your question about Villa O'Higgins is not clear. A road from where? To where? There is a combination of rough track and ferry from the end of the Carratera Austral in Villa O'Higgins to near El Chalten in Argentina. People have done it on small bikes, and one guy has done it on a DRZ 400. He said it was difficult, and he told me he'd been informed he was the only person to make it on a large motorbike. Mountain bikes ride it relatively often, but that's about the extent of what I know.

Hope that helps.

Mark
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Old 29 Dec 2010
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I used to take overland trucks down the austral highway, trying to minimise ferries. There was a small river crossing ferry at La Arena (not far from Pto Montt) but the big one was from Hornopiren (Rio Negro) to Caletta Gonzalo (approx 56km from Chaiten) The ferry company was Transmarchilay. Office in Santiago WAS Providencia #2653, tel 022342464, and in Pto Montt Av Angelmo #2187 Tel 065270420 www.transmarchilay.com Be aware this data is some years old but it might give you a starting point!
Good luck,
Simon.
PS Emerged at Punto Roballos into Argentina, where I once stayed as a guest of the army for 5 days thanks to unexpected snow Stunning scenery, and fuel/food at Bajo Caracoles approx 130km further on.
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Old 3 Jan 2011
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Naviera Austral

Hey thanks for the information, apologies for my lack of info regarding the tire sizes i didnt have them to hand when i posted. I've actually managed to sort something for them anyway here in Puerto Varas!

Local guy i got chatting to confirmed what you were saying about the road North of Chaiten as well, he said it was badly damaged from the volcano eruption and believes they are not going to pump masses of money in to repair it any time soon!

He also told me of the ferry company that best to use. Address is below if anyone wants it for ferry crossing information from Puerto Montt to Chaiten!

Naviera Austral S.A.

Ciao!
Edd.
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Old 3 Jan 2011
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You can get tyres in Osorno at Moto Adventura. Probably not knobbies though, but you don't really need it for the Carreterra. It's just a gravel road.

We looked at that crossing there, but heard from cyclists that crossed is it would be near impossible. They had little in terms of weight but struggled. Covered in mud to the knees and thighs, and you end up traversing mountain sides through all the trees. It's not impossible with a trail bike, but weather permitting and experience required.

There is a ferry to pick you up. Might need to ring ahead though. Should be to hard to organise.
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  #6  
Old 13 Jan 2011
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Lago General Carrera Question

Hi Hubbers.

I ended up heading through Argentina, bariloche down to esquel where we crossed into Futalefu. Road the first bit of the austral in awful rain and feel it was a mistake to push on as the road looked so scenic through Parque National Queulat. Im actaully worried ive missed the best part. Holding up in villa Amengual for a few days for this awful rain to pass. its pretty heavy and the austral is awash with gravel and streams.

My question is we have the option of ferry from Puerto Ibanez to Chile Chico where we plan to head to Perito Merino in Arg. OR we drive the ride along Lago General Carrera. Ive heard its stupendous scenery. has anyone ridden this or knows of someone's blog who talk about this. I could do with knowing how hair raising a road this is??

also which way to Coihaique from the north has the best scenery from teh junction near puerto aisen or before passing Villa Ortega?

gracias!

P.S im loving my life right now and cant wait for the rest of Patagonia.
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Old 13 Jan 2011
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You dont need to take the ferry from Puerto Ibanez, you can ride. I'm not sure where you get the idea that this road is hair raising, its decent dirt road and gets completely graded and smooth once you get into Argentina. I know for a fact that a Harley Road King can do it. Dont sweat it.

However, continuing to Cochrane and crossing into Argentina via Paso Roballo is much more spectacular, FWIW. I'm still sorry that I did not go to Villa O'Higgins, but I had enough of the rain at that point and opted to head east.
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Old 14 Jan 2011
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rain rain rain

Hey mark thanks for this and the info in your other post. I guess that what you get when you read shit guide books that say death road when its just a few curves!!!

Passo Roballo! hmm sounds like a good recommendation. ill see what happens with the weather!

At the moment weve been held up in Villa Armangual for two days hoping for it to pass. Its meant to be better south so we head off today on our 'wee little bikes' ha ha!!

Gracias,
Edd.
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