Panama to Colombia travel options (Jun 2009)

[randomtraveller]

Introduction
There is very little up to date information on crossing the Darien Gap on a budget, so having just crossed, below is all the information I found about the options available for both travellers and bikers - this forum seemed a good place to list it.

If travelling with a bicycle, try options A, C or D.
If travelling with a motorbike, try options C or D.
If travelling with a pack, I would recommend option A - flying across the jungle in a small prop plane stopping at remote communities on the way is definately worth the extra money!


Definitions
Panama City: Capital
Puerto Obaldia: Panama border town on Carribean coast
Tubuala: Nearest airport to Panama border town (Puerto Obaldia's airport is closed at the moment due to landslides on the runway)
Carpurgana: Colombian border town on Carribean coast
Turbo: Port town in mainland Colombia
Cartagena/Medellin: Probable destination
$: US Dollars
COP: Colombian Pesos


Points to Note

• Carpurgana businesses accept dollars at $1 = 2,000COP. The actual rate is around 2,100COP
• You can exchange Dollars for Colombian Pesos in Panama City at the Casa de Cambio in Plaza Concordia
• Bus from Panama City (Casco Viejo, Plaza cinqo de Mayo) - Albrook bus terminal cost $0.25. Ask any bus if they're heading to "Albrook"
• Most of the boats used are small and have no cover. Make sure anything important is waterproofed in case of rough seas or random thunderstorms

A) Flight/Boat/Bus combo - total cost $170 travel time 2 days

1. Fly Panama City - Tubuala with Air Panama or Aeroperlas (TACA). Both have offices in Panama City. They both fly Mon/Wed/Fri/Sun at 6am (Air Panama) & 10am (Aeroperlas). Flight times subject to change, make sure you leave the telephone number of the place you are staying. Fly from Albrook Airport (a short walk from bus terminal) $63.50 + $0.25 (bus to terminal) + $1.00 Tubuala "arrival tax". Travel time 1 hour
2. Boat Tubuala - Puerto Obaldia. There should be a boat waiting at the airport island. $25 (you can try bargaining, but it's unlikely to work). Travel time 1 hour
3. Migracion for exiting Panama. Free
4. The same boat will take you to Carpurgana for $12. You could try to negotiate a deal at Tubuala for both journeys. Travel time 20 mins. It is possible to trek to Carpurgana, but there is guerilla activity in the area and during the wet season a lot of landslides. It should take 3-5 hours
5. Migracion for entering Colombia. They will offer 30 days, ask for 60. Free
6. Overnight in Carpurgana. You can find places to stay for 10,000COP - 20,000COP ($5 - $10)
   
7. Boat Carpurgana - Turbo. Leaves every day at 07:30. Cost 49,000COP ($25). Travel time 3-4 hours
8. Arrive Turbo. Be careful at the port - lots of "helpful people". From here you can get a bus to Medellin (8 hours, 85,000COP) or Monteria (4 hours, 35,000COP) and from there to Cartagena (4 hours, 40,000COP)

B) Direct Flight - total cost $146 travel time 4 hours

1. Fly Aires air (AIRES - Las mejores ofertas en tiquetes aereos.) from Tocumen International Airport (Panama City) to Cartagena. They fly every day at 21:58 arriving at 23:16. Cost $124.70 (promotional fare)
2. Misc costs: PTY departure tax $20, Bus to airport via bus terminal $0.50, bus to Cartagena city center 1,200COP

C) Cargo boat to Puerto Obaldia - total cost approx $180 travel time 6 days

1. Bus Albrook terminal - Colon. Every 30-50 mins, $2.50 (2 hours)
2. Colon bus terminal is on Calle 12. Head north up Ave Central to Calle 5
3. Go to Pier 3, Calle 5 and ask for cargo boats heading to Puerto Obaldia at the pier office. These boats take cargo and trade with the Kuna indigenous people on the coast. Ask for boats "Don Luis" and "Lya del Mar" - they regularly run the route. Departure times vary - you'll need to ask when you arrive when the next boat is leaving. After a little bargaining you can probably get the price down to $70 including meals. Travel time around 4-5 days. You'll need a hammock and be comfortable living with sailors (solo female travellers might want to think carefully)
4. Wait X number of days in Panama City for boat to leave. The cheapest hostel I could find was Casco Viejo in the old town (calle 8) for $9 a night
5. Misc costs: Customs "tax" $20, Re-write crew manifest $10 (you can try bargaining)
6. Follow Option A from step 3

D) Sail San Blas islands - total cost approx $410 travel time 5 days

1. Ask at Casa Luna in Panama city or Hostel Wunderbar (Backpacker Hostel Wunderbar - Home) in Puerto Limon for boats to Cartagena. They leave pretty much every day and takes 4-5 days to get to Cartagena with 2-3 days spent on the San Blas islands. The website has an up to date list of boat departure times, number of places available and number of motorbikes it can carry. Cost $385 (not really negotiable, maybe if there are places available the day before departure)
2. Misc costs: Panama City - Boat pier $25 by jeep. You can make your own way by public transport for much less though
3. Note: You could try to negotiate directly with the boat captains, but the hostels are unlikely to give out telephone numbers as they receive $30 commission on every ticket sold (the cost is the same regardless of commission)

E) Trek through the Darien Gap - total cost approx $200 travel time 1-2 weeks

1. You could try and trek overland, however you would need to have previous jungle experience, and spend a lot on local guides. There is also the risk of kidnapping due to heavy guerilla activity in the Darien Gap. It is even more difficult in the wet season. Not really recommended

Safe Travels!