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Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



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  #1  
Old 15 Nov 2010
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Thumbs up Routes - Colombia, Ecuador, & Peru

Folks, here's some routes that I travelled when I was in South America. I laid them out for some friends going south, so I may as well share them here too. These are 3 mainly dirt routes in Colombia, Ecuador, & Peru, and they're all fantastic. These could be well known already, but sure I'll stick them up anyway. Hope they'll be of use to some of ye.

Colombia
Popayan - San Agustìn - Tierradentro - Popayan
This is a gorgeous little route, mostly over dirt roads. 5 days with 2 days spent between San Agustìn & Tierradentro to view tombs, statues & countryside, but of course it can be done in less. The Road between SA & Tierra is paved for maybe 70km's, then back to dirt. In some parts it gets pretty muddy if it's rained. Also, watch out for FARC on the way to SA from Popayan.
On the route to Tierradentro from San Agustìn, when you are getting close to Tierra you come to a river (I can't remember the name, need to see a map), and you have two options to proceed....one is an hour detour to the left up the river, the other is over a bamboo bridge. Here's a clip from another lad that did it. I've gotta say he did a better job than me, I had that ****er swinging....
YouTube - 10. Un-cut Brainrotting footage: Crossing the bamboo bridge in Colombia
Anyway, the choice there is your own, but the bridge is an experience. Might I suggest unload the bikes first, then walk them over...!
Anyway, gorgeous route.

Ecuador
Quilatoa Loop
Gorgeous dirt road loop around a volcanic crater (Lago Quilatoa) and the surrounding countryside, in the highlands south of Quito (just to the west of Cotopaxi Volcano). This could be done in a day if short on time, but 2 is nice. Plenty of places to stop and sleep. Watch out for the dogs, craziest in all of South America.

Peru
Cordilleras Blancas
Take the highway south from Trujillo. At about the 81km mark you will find a dirt road leading to the left, east, with a sign saying: Proyecto Mankowitch Bocatoma. Take this dirt road for 22km's until you reach Tanguche, keep going east. After this you will find a bridge with a gate on it. Look around for the security guard to unlock the gate on the bridge and cross the river. Carry on east to Chuquicara. Here you will find a gas station, maybe not a bad idea to top up. Just after town are some cops at a barrier who will leave you through. Ask them for the road to Cañon del Pato or Huallanca. It is a dirt road, do not take the alternative paved road. The dirt road passes through a series of tunnels (40-something I think) with gorgeous views of the canyons and hills. A side trip on the way to Huaraz is up to the spectacular Laguna Llaganuco, in the Parque Nacional Huasacaran. Another extension of this trip is to Chavìn de Huantar (possibly my favorite little town in the Andes. It is very real.), on the other side of the Cordilleras from Huaraz, reached by going south, east, then north on the roads (there are alternatives, this is just the way I went...). Don't miss Lago Quanchenca on this route. All this is probably my top route in my trip so far, absolutely gorgeous. I had no problem camping out, felt safe. Never ran out of fuel, though I was sold some mixed with water in Chavìn de Huantar. You hit up some high passes and it gets cold at night. I took about 4 days I think to do it, but could be done at a quicker or slower pace. Really shouldn't be missed if you have the time.

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Old 25 Nov 2010
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P.S. Don't let that note about FARC near San Agustin put you off, they're not that bad, all they'll do is take your money, not your bike. They jumped out just after I'd passed a pickup and stuck up the couple that were in it, but that was all, sent them on their way again after. Lovely people really.
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Old 3 Dec 2010
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route reccs

I am planning my SA trip now and I want to thank you for these very specific reccomendations. And I take you really feel for the most part any road bandits are really fairly benign
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Old 15 Feb 2011
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Yes Nickel, just a crowd of chancers is all they ever are. All you have to do is floor it....
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Old 16 Feb 2011
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These are very nice routes that IronArse recommends. As far as dangers go, I thought Peru was by far the most dangerous country I have been to in South America, no contest. My opinion, FWIW, which probably aint much. FARC, ELN, Sendero Luminoso, armed bandits are the least of your worries. Its the truck and bus drivers in Peru that have absolutely no regard for any human life that travels on two wheels. Stay on your game, especially on the back roads of Peru.
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Old 16 Feb 2011
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Yes, I agree Crashmaster, the daily jostles with trucks and buses should be priority no 1 worry to anyone on the road there. Just the thought of the possibility of an encounter with FARC or the like shouldn't be enough to put anyone off, unless there's serious reports about an area.
As most of us know, it's usually not as bad as you hear it is. Except what he says about buses in Peru......that IS true....
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