Hey guys,

In Tarija, Bolivia right now, about to head up to Potosi, then down to Uyuni, Tupiza before heading back into Argentina.
We're thinking of riding our bike up on the salt plains, wondering if any of you have any riding tips how to do it, and, if possible and helpful, maybe some interesting coordinates?
We'll only be able to stay for a few days

happy riding

Would also be interested... rode on some salt flats in Iran, Was allot of fun although watch out for soft spots...

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I'm also be interested in anyone sharing information about the Salar. I'm particularly interested in any current information about entering Bolivia from Chile at Otilague (west of Uyuni on Rn 5.) I've read some of the routes through western bolivia are rough and I'm traveling solo on a HEAVY R1150GS so I'm concerned about the roads.

Years ago I crossed the Salar de Uyuni frequently in a small overland truck. Crossing from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile via San Juan (among other BFN villages. Stunning desert scenery. Used to overnight on Incahuasi Island on the salt (I believe there's a hotel there now - for the latest, talk to Chris and Suzie at Hotel Tonito in Uyuni, lovely people and great pizza!) Crossed the salt to Colca K then down to San Juan before crossing the Chiguana pan, where we usually spent a day having broken through the crust - no fun in a truck but a bike would be fine - while the soldiers at the checkpost on the other side watched through binoculars. Then on to Lagunas Colorado and Verde and eventually down the hill a vertical km or so to San Pedro and civilisation. Spent 3-4 days doing it. Fuel would be an issue on a bike - probably available in San Juan but maybe nowhere else.
A daytrip or 2 onto the salt NOT to be missed, but if you can sort the logistics to go further, the desert the other side is stunning too.
Safest way onto the salt from Uyuni was head W out of town towards Colchani and go left onto the pan approx S20deg18'7.8", W66deg56'7.7" (sorry for old fashioned coords, I was young and knew no better!)
Incahuasi Island 61km at 283degrees, I think coords were S20deg14'25.4", W67deg37'36.9"
Causeway leading onto dry land the other side, if you're crossing, started at S20deg34'34.3, W67deg32'54.3" Surrounding the causeway the "ground" is soft and you could lose a truck in it for 3 or 4 days. (Don't ask!)
I think the salt crossing was 90 or so km, but my memory is a bit vague. San Juan was 50ish on rough roads from the causeway. After that, I remember camping just after the checkpoint with the binoculars, if we hadn't been stuck somewhere! 1 daysworth from Incahuasi to there with plenty of photostops. Play in the desert around the Arbol de piedra if you've fuel. Also v cool place to overnight. After that, leave Oblivia near Laguna Verde and head downhill, where it'll feel like you only have to breathe once a minute!
Beautiful place. Hope this helps, but be wary of the accuracy of my old handwritten route notes.
Simon

Hi,

I crossed the Salar this time last year (beginning of October) to San Pedro de Atacama so here are my thoughts and advice on the trip.

When you get to Uyuni I would recommend going out on the Salt Flats for a day to take photo's and visit the island in the middle, then return to Uyuni for a night and prepare for the three day ride. This will mean that you can get the obligatory shots of holding the bike in your hand etc without the pressure to make up riding time. Remember to have sun block on your lips and forehead; the sun beats down on you and I suffered badly.

The journey after the Salar is tough but it is clearly possible. Be aware that the 4x4's make much easier work of the terrain than you will so when on the road there will be no-one behind you until the next day - make sure you have everything you might need to survive a night out in the desert.

There are plenty of tour operators in Uyuni, we paid one to make two drop off points along the way for fuel and food - we them paid $20USD. Drop one was at San Juan, drop two Laguna Colorada; these are the logical places to stop and both have BASIC hostels. However make sure that the tour operator is stopping in the same town as you on the same night, that way you're not waiting for a 4x4 to drop food and fuel for you in the morning and thus making you lose precious journey time. This is particularly important at San Juan because day 2 is the toughest ride (it was the toughest ride I've ever made - approx 10 hours) and you'll want to set off early. We had to wait for our 4x4 and so didn't end up leaving San Juan until after 10am and arrived at Laguna Colorada well after dark when temperatures had dropped below zero :-(

The tour operators can tell you distances between stops but you will probably need up to 10 litres of fuel at San Juan and a further 10 litres at Laguna Colorada. You might calculate that you don't need this much fuel but it's better to be safe than sorry. We had food and water dropped for us too to save us carrying more weight. There is little chance of purchasing food and fuel on the road and be aware that you may need to pay someone to prepare food for you at a hostel, or cook it yourself on your own stove. Make sure you have food like energy bars/banana's with you for the ride.

Passport control is right next to Hotel Avenida in Uyuni - which has secure parking for the bike.

Aduana is sign posted close to the border with Chile at a whopping 5100 metres above sea level!.

Passport control and aduana in Chile are just outside of San Pedro de Atacama - you can't miss them.

All formalities were straight forward but I believe you need to pay passport control a small fee in Uyuni for exit stamps.

I travelled in the dry season and to be honest the salt wasn't the problem I thought it would be. I did spray the underside of my bike with WD40 but after the journey the only salt that I could see was on the bottom of my bash plate. Shipping the bike from Panama to Colombia was far worse for the bike that the Salar. I washed my bike down after completing the trip in San Pedro.

I did have problems starting my bike at altitude; it had dropped below zero at night. Foolishly I had 15/50 oil in the bike and I ride a BMW F650, the injection system didn't take kindly to the combination of oil/cold/altitude.
Before you leave Uyuni check over all the bolts to your subframe. I snapped one bolt and my friend snapped an engine mount and three spokes on the ride.

The salt flat is the best road in Bolivia, it's flat! The road to San Juan gets tough, with deep sand at points. A heavily loaded bike will make your front wheel dig in to the soft ground.

On day two the road from the lake of flamingos is soul destroying. It is hard going all the way to Laguna Colorada. Just before you enter the village at Laguna Colorada there is a check point where you'll need to pay your entrance fee to the national park. Make sure you've kept some money aside to pay for this.

You can see some of the roads you'll face in my video:

YouTube - Brainrotting: Episode 12 - Bolivia Worlds most dangerous road Che Guevara BMW F650 GS Bike Adventure

I have GPS tracks that I'm happy to share with anyone email me: grahamstyles at gmail dot com or use the contact form on my website http://www.brainrotting.com

I hope this helps

Hey I've ridden this road (I assume you mean't Ollague), it was a little sandy at times and full of potholes but you'll be fine on your beamer in my opinion just make sure you have enough fuel.

Hi Graham,

you did a good job: very helpfull description!

That sound too difficult for us with our HEAVILY IF NOT OVERLAODED WANNABE Enduros (Transalps). Which would be quite disappointing for us, since this is maybe THE highlight of south america for us.

Is it really that bad?
To be realistic: deep sand is nothing, that we can handle with our bikes for more than a short distances.

greetings from Ecuador

Panny

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Hi Steam, I did that about an year ago, during the dry season and it was relatively easy (Me on a 1200GS and a friend on a 1150GS). I assume you are coming from Calama heading to Uyuni, crossing the border at Ollague in Chile and Abaroa in Bolivia? About 400km of decent ripio (dirt) and very desert; during some stretches you will need to ride standing but not a big deal really, I´m far from being an offroad expert and had no problem; cannot tell, however, how it is like in case it rains. With the 25l tank on the 1150 fuel should not be an issue. Take everything you need, particularly water and snacks, first aid kit etc.

The road is *very* scenic and, approaching Ollague, you will see two of the most beatiful "salares" I´ve ever seen, Ascotán and Carcote, right next to the omnipresent Ollague volcano. After crossing the border, head to Uyuni via Via Allota and *not* Rio Grande; the road via Rio Grande, so I was told, has some traffic and trucks. The road via Via Allota is totally desert, with breathtaking views. Doable in one day if you leave Calama early and ride slowly enjoying the scenery. As others have said, if it is dry at the Salar de Uyuni, reserve at least one full day for riding on the salar itself and, if possible, plan to camp there for at least one night. You won´t regret it.

Enjoy your trip, you won´t forget it!

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Fernando Costa
Ilhabela, SP BRAZIL

What´s the best way to get to Uyuni? I tried the route from Huari to Uyuni yesterday and the damn corrugations shed the bolts holding my exhaust on. Consequently a trip back to the tarmac was needed to stock up on bolts. By the that point I decided to head to Potosi (where I am now - tightening every bolt on the bike!)

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Two Wheels Two Continents

Best way as in fastest/smoothest? The road direct from Potosi to Uyuni is quite quick, it should take 4-6 hours no more. Only other ways to get there I think are from Tupiza or Oruro which would take 2-3 days from Potosi.

The route from the Salar through the lagunas is not to be missed IMO. dont worry about fuel. You can usually buy barrel gas in San Juan and buy fuel off the tours at Laguna Colorado. If youre a competent off road rider you will have no problems on this route. If you are comfortable in deep sand and rocks at 5000 meters, its not a big deal.

Knobbies are nice to have for this route. Its like riding on Mars, the most epic route I did in all of South America IMO.

I rode from Isla Pescado to Laguna Colorado in about 8 hours, 200 miles, but I was really hauling ass and bear in mind that I am primarily an enduro rider. Most people seem to take 2 or 3 days for that section.

Camping at Laguna Honda would be awesome as long as the wind is not blowing at sand blaster velocity.

It will be cold at night. On the Salar in September it got down to -15C at night. At Laguna colorado it was -23C and the wind was howling. Not very fun conditions to be camping in, but its doable if you have a tent and good sleeping bag. There are basic accomodations at Laguna Colorado if you desire them. Great for getting out of the wind, but it will still be cold in the buildings.

I spent over a year riding in South America and this was the most epic ride I experienced, hands down.

Into Bolivia, the Salar de Uyuni and the Lagunas | South on Two Wheels

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Hi Vince!
We had a or two, read your report and enjoyed the planning of a tempting next section of our trip. Especially the pictures really got us!

As usual, non of the fotos looks like DEEP sand...
We know this effect: where ever we got really scared and took pictures, it looked much smoother than it was.

You mention Holger and Anja. Those names sound German. Do you have any contact data or URL?

Panny

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Holger & Anja!!!! The Global Village strikes again... Met them at the HUBB meeting in australia 2008. Lovely couple, rode together for too short a time.

You´ll find them here...home | 2 auf Reisen

see you soon for a few of these...

Adam

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Hi,

Just finished that run about a week ago. I met up with some other riders in Unyuni, so we did it as group and had a blast.

-This time of year the Salar still had some water on it and it really coated the bikes. Plan to go back to Unyuni after a trip on the Salar to wash your bike properly.
-Camping right in the middle was great, but seriously cold once the sun went down. It was amazing and completely unmissable.
-On Pescado Island you can get food, water, drop garbage, and hit up tour trucks for fuel if you need it.

-After the Salar we took the ride down to Chile and it was fantastic- great bush camping anywhere. The towns don't have gas stations, but if you ask around you should be able to find 5-10ltrs around. Same goes for water.
-Villa Mar has a couple of places to stay, a welder, and a few basic stores. It's a full day ride from Unyuni on a mix a good gravel, bad gravel, and occasional sandy stretches.
-Right before (going towards Chile) you hit the Gyser Sol de Marina you've got customs- look for the sign pointing you to a mine, about 2km off the main road.
-The thermal waters de Polgues are a great place to warm up and you can spend the night as well. You might just get space on the floor, but it's warmer than outside.
-Honestly the roads aren't that bad and almost any bike should be able to make it. We had an HP2, R1200GSA, KLR650, BMW Dakar 650, and a V-Strom. No one had any serious issues beyond some slow speed drops in deep sand and on the snow/ice around the gyser.
-We carried enough fuel for about 500km for everyone, though with what we could find in the small towns we could have made it with less. Most of the tour trucks carry extra petrol, though they charge at least double for it.
The bad stuff.....

The drivers are terrible. I mean really terrible. One of us was driven off the road by speeding tour trucks and cracked his pannier frame. Neither truck stopped.

After we had separated (rest going to Chile me going east along the border) I was driven off the road by a truck passing another with no visibility. I almost made it, but ended up breaking some rear spokes and my ankle in 3 places (I'm St. Pedro de Atacama right now healing). Neither truck stopped. Getting myself to surgery etc was a nightmare.

So, be VERY careful of the other drivers, ESPECIALLY the tour trucks as the drivers are really terrible and often drunk (we noticed more than one driver already drunk in the morning at the thermal waters).

All and all- it really is something not to be missed. Yes, it takes a little planning, but beyond that, its not really hardcore. Take it slow, watch out for truck drivers, and enjoy the amazing views.

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DRad
http://gsguy.wordpress.com

Hi DRad,

thanx for the good description!
My best wishes for quick recovery!

cheers

Panny

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