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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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Old 15 Dec 2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-m View Post
I'm curious how things might have changed in that time.
I was there for about 12 months in 2019-2020, and more recently for three months in 2022. Here is my take.
Quote:


Politics and currency

When I was in Argentina the Peso wasn't free floating so currency was exchanged on street corners at the blue dollar or pound rate (think it was something like 20). Half way through, Argentina had a new president and the currency was allowed to float freely.

There were big import restrictions and sanctions to stop capitol flight. Is it still difficult/impossible to import items/spares into Argentina?
Blue dollar is still the way for foreign tourist to obtain peso. There are several options to exchange at or near the street value. Very recently the government started allowing all transactions w/ a foreign credit card to use an exchange rate very near the street blue rate. And you can also wire yourself funds to any Western Union at a rate very near the street blue rate. I have not used it, but Xoom (owned by PayPal) offers similar rate to Western Union. All these are better, simpler options than walking around listening for "Cambio!" and having to exchange cash in public in my opinion. I wish the credit card exchange rate had been in place on our last visit because I was always uncomfortable w/ the large amounts of cash (peso) I had to carry around. Large in physical size, not just amount. There are not enough large-denomination bills - a real problem w/ such high inflation, so you end up with huge piles of paper currency in lower-denomination bills. But now I would pay with credit card when possible, reducing need for physical currency.

All that said - with the new president, everything is in flux, and who knows what way it will go. During his campaign, he promised to dollarise the country and eliminate the central bank, but has given mixed signals on those goals since being elected. I would keep an eye on the Buenos Aires Times, and english language newspaper, to keep abreast of what is going on there, because I'm sure there will be significant changes coming to Argentina in the coming year.

https://www.batimes.com.ar/

Quote:

Development

Is Ruta 40 now fully paved? How about the Ruta 7 in Chile? Is there more lithium mining activity on the Salar (it was practically untouched in back then).
I think more of it is paved, but it is no where near all paved. Worst stretch (especially if you are on a motor cycle) is (still) the section south of Gobernador Gregories, to Tres Lagos. My wife and I detoured around that in 2019, by taking 27 out of Gobernador Gregories, to 288 into Tres Lagos. Longer, still dirt (288) but much better road. We didn't ride on 70 south of Mendoza (we crossed to Chile and went south from there), but I heard that there are some dirt sections on 40 between there and the seven lakes region.

Quote:
Any changes to the Laguna's route in Bolivia, or is it still soft sand?
No changes, yes the same.

Quote:
Time to go
Do it! We are planning to return in 2024.

Quote:
More tourism

Has there been an explosion of tourism and some areas's are just best avoided now?

IIRC when I went Machu Pichu allowed 2,500 tourists a day, but you could go around freely without the need for a guide. I believe a guide is needed now.
I think it is about the same at Machu Picchu. We did hire a guide (2019), and I think officially it is required, but some people claim it isn't enforced. IDK. But it was for me a contradiction - totally touristy (which normally I'd avoid) and totally epic and worth it at the same time. As you know since you've been there. Maybe someone else has more recent info.

Tourism industry, all over South America, took a bad hit during COVID. All land, air and sea borders were closed for almost two years, and when we were back last year, we entered Bolivia the first week the border opened, after two years! Many restaurants and hotels that showed up on Google Maps were in fact closed. Everywhere we went, people were falling over themselves to make us comfortable. In Uyuni, we were a spectacle - and one business owner told us "For us to see you here, foreign tourists, after these two years of struggle, it is a sign of hope - you are a sign that things will be getting better." Wow - it was strange experience, humbling. We left Buenos Aires in March 2020 due to COVID, just barely made it out before the country shut down, and on our return in 2022 one thing we noticed was a marked increase in homeless people living in the streets, which was rare to see before. Poverty rate has climbed across the continent.

Other changes are politics: Ecuador, Colombia and especially Peru have recently had a lot of political turmoil. Which is the norm in general I guess, but keep an eye on the news. We had to change our plans in 2022 due to the total shutdown of Peru - we were in Bolivia and planning to head north to Colombia to ship out from there. But it was impossible to get through Peru - country was totally shut down for something like a month due to blockades. We had to get home, so we changed plans, returned south, and shipped out of Buenos Aires. That's just part of the journey on such travels.
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