|
|
9 Sep 2003
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: san francisco
Posts: 144
|
|
Ethiopia to Kenya: Marsabit Highway Warning
A warning for those who intend to cross from Ethiopia to Kenya through Moyale - Marsabit - Isiolo...
We went through that road 6 weeks ago. One or two days later, an attack occured on a police station, the road was closed and all traffic was diverted to Wajir. The problem is that the Wajir road is much longer and, according to travellers, has quite a bit of sand.
The Kenyan police chief in Moyale doesn't say the truth about the current situation. You'd better ask people in town or even low-level customs guards. Someone recommended us not to drive in front of all other vehicules when leaving in the morning because some bombs have been planted on the road in the past (2 or 3 attacks last June and July).
Another sad story about that road was told to us by the gendarme at the French embassy in Nairobi. Last year, 2 bikers who had met in Kenya - one French, the other Dutch - took that road without escort. The French guy was found dead (althrough the autopsy did not show any evidence of foul play) and the Dutch guy disappeared without trace.
If we had known this, we would have ridden much closer to our escort...
Sorry for the bad news,
Pierre - http://photobiker.com
|
12 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 479
|
|
We had a similar story last year when we went there. Most of the traveller talk before suggested it was the police trying to talk up the situation to justify their numbers in running convoys. We went down from Moyale to Masabit on the first day without a convoy. Spent then night in Masabit but then police wouldn't let us out of town without the convoy. Went and spoke to the police chief - actually gave the town commissioner an earful before he pointed out he wasn't the police chief. Chief was a nice guy, only the second day in the job. In the end we compromised and followed a police landrover out. They had about 11 police on board and they went off somewhere else after about an hour gesturing for us to stay on the road. Our rear shocks went and we crawled down to Nanyuki at 10kms an hour without major incident. Then found out that two days before, a dutch bedford 4 tonne truck with four people on board was stopped by 15 gun men with AK47s, they shot in the air, forced the driver out on to the ground and put a gun to the back of his head but then refused a video camera and other electrical gear and ended up taking about £40 in cash. Met with British troops stationed down there who had been shot at - not good for travellers if the locals are prepared to shoot at soldiers in uniform in Army landrovers with rifles - presumably they don't know they only have blanks. Loads of travellers coming through however. Aparently the bandits are mainly interested in trucks because the drivers carry the money from the goods they sell. Not so interested in 4x4s and not interested in motorbikes.
[This message has been edited by Toby2 (edited 13 September 2003).]
|
20 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
New on the HUBB
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 8
|
|
Hmmm
I'm intending using that road to Nanyuki in December. Do you reckon it's safe WITH an escort. How much does this cost? My own experience with bandits in Africa is that they seem to occur at tribal (rather than national) boundaries and it's totally hit and miss whether you encounter them. Fortunately I never have, though my wife was ambushed at gunpoint in a Matatu and foolishly concealed her engagement and wedding rings in her mouth...not a good idea. Two people were shot dead but she was dismissed unharmed. She was also mugged collecting money from Western Union and robbed. Both incidents in Nairobi during the Moi era. Things are getting a lot better in nairobi now but there are still hi - jacks. It used to be the same in Mareilles when walking down to En Vau to climb! Plus ca change
Peter
|
22 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
HUBB regular
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: London
Posts: 27
|
|
Interesting topic (especially seeing as I'll be doing this early next year!) - I never imagined that by the time I got to ethiopia/kenya there would be too many potential hazards - it's really close to forever unstable somalia i guess - I'm sure a lot of the trouble in this region is as a direct result of the insecurity there....
I have two qu's:
1/ I've heard about the military escort - as with freerockspirit, does anyone know how much it costs and also does the convoy go from the ethiopian side at Moyale into Kenya?
2/ I've heard about another route into Kenya from ethiopia via Lake Turkana (crossing at Banya Fort - approx 300km west of Moyale)...has anyone gone this way - I've heard that while it's a much safer route, there are no offcial border posts on it - It would essentially mean turning up in Nairobi without a stamp and with a lot of explaning to do! Can anyone verify this?
George
|
22 Sep 2003
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: san francisco
Posts: 144
|
|
We crossed with an overlander truck that hired 2 policemen - and their kalachnikovs - for a total of $75. We figured it would cover their expenses (meals, hotel, transportation) to find their way back to Moyale. The cops there are quite willing to take the trip (often, they have to go anyway to visit their families) but it is not easy for them to arrange the trip back to Moyale.
Pierre
http://photobiker.com
|
23 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 142
|
|
First of all, the police chief in Moyale (kenya side) doesn't know what he's talking about. Don't trust him.
We drove into Kenya from Ethiopia last january and after talking to the police chief on the Kenyian side took an alternative route. The convoy starts early in the morning on the Kenya side, and thus, if you want to take the convoy, it's best to cross the border the afternoon before. Incase you get held up with customs etc.
We got the impression that the route we took alone; Moyale, Wajir, Mado Gashi, Isiolo, was not uncommon. This is east of the convoy route, more towards Somalia. We began to wonder a bit when the officers at the many check points seemed so suprised to see us... In Mado Gashi, we were told at the police station that they hadn't seen white people there since the officers began their tour of "the operational area". About 3 years before. We asked if we could sleep in the compound and they advised us that it would be best for us, as there was a little "religious tention" in the area. When the district police chief later arrived, the fun really began. He was drunk as a skunk and immediatly ordered us arrested, as potential terrorists! Basically because he was suspicious that we came down this "backway route". In his drunken state, he thought we were trying to sneak into Kenya to pull off a new Mombasa bombing...
All our documents (maps, passports, car papers etc.) were confiscated and 4 men were ordered to guard us with their battle rifles!
The car was driven a bit away from the buildings (incase a bomb went off in it...) and we then spent a couple of hours convincing the police chief that we were tourists from Norway, and not Al Qaida terrorists!
This wasn't a money/bribe issue. It was a genuinally serious matter to the guy. Eventually we conviced him of who we were, and he then ordered his men to change around and guard us throughout the night against the local population. According to him, they were not too fond of non-muslims, and there had been a lot of religious violance recently.
After a sweaty night in our tent, we were given 2 officers with guns, grenades and the works to escort us to the farside (west side) of mount Kenya. For free! It took a days drive and that was the end of our journey through the Operational Area. The officers told us about some recent bandit battles, and we could see on their faces that they didn't feel quite secure driving around there. It was obvious that the stories weren't just to scare us.
What was a little scary was that the police chiefs men blindly followed his orders even though he was totaly drunk!
There are some benefits of driving this route; the tracks are sand (and a bit of mud when we were there) instead of the sharp rocks on the convoy route which will rip up your tyres. For motorcycles though, I'd say that the sandy ruts we had were quite bad. Often with dense bush on the sides, so you'd be forced to stick to the ruts...
If there are any bandits roaming around this alternative route, they definatly won't expect you to come along, unlike on the convoy route where "everyone" drives.
The downside is that the bandits here supposedly shoot at your vehicle to stop you... Unlike on the convoy route where you are "held up".
Another thing we've heard down there is that when people get a flat tyre etc. with the convoy, it just continues and leaves the stricken car/bike behind! Some convoy!
Obviously there are upsides and downsides to both ways.
If making a choice, I'd go the same way over again!
Good luck.
Erik D.
www.dunia.no
--------------------------------------------
[This message has been edited by Erik D. (edited 22 September 2003).]
|
23 Sep 2003
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 284
|
|
I think it's a personal decision wether to take this road or not.
At the end of the day you need to weigh up the risks and decide wether you personally are prepared to ride it or not.
I motorbike this road in late May and although there was a risk of bandits at the time, had no problems.
I know of a German couple who took the Wajir route 2 weeks before and had no probs either.
But saying that, I didn't expect any trouble in the Omo valley and had to run an ambush.
While in the Omo valley I was told by a German prospector that Banja Fort now has a customs post,
but don't underestimate this area, it is very isolated and you need to be 100% self-reliant.
|
25 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 479
|
|
There is a convoy going down I think every day. Its free but it goes early. It also offers minimum protection as some vehicles dissappear off in to the distance whilst the slow old trucks drive miles and miles behind. There is also scope to have police on / in your vehicles, however this could be counter production. There was an argument raised that if rebels were encountered who didn't engage, the police might still engage leading to a shoot out rather than just a hold up and robbing or nothing at all. Just a perspective. Dutch truck that got robbed was stopped by a gang of 15 armed with AK47s, would one policeman have been able to stop this? hard to tell I guess as to whether it would be sufficient to put them off?
|
27 Sep 2003
|
Registered Users
HUBB regular
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 93
|
|
We drove the route via Omo Valley / Lake Turkana in January. From Ethiopia you drive towards the Omo Valley and then illegally cross the border into Kenya (there definitely was no customs office on the Ethiopian side). This route is actually described in "Durch Afrika" by Daerr. The description is crap though and we got caught by the Ehiopian police. A lot a shouting and a USD 100 bribe, 20 km before the border.
Anyway, safely made it into Kenya. We ran into a missionaries' house just across the border and they drew us a map to Nairobi which was another three days driving.
You more or less follow the eastern shore of the Turkana Lake through Sibiloi NP and eventually end up in Loyangalani where you have the first fuel stop after approx. 600 km.
We got our visa in Nairobi without any trouble at all. The advantage of this route is that basically there is NO traffic for three days. The place is indeed extremely isolated. In case of a breakdown this can be a bit tricky of course. We passed one truck full of heavily armed guys in military suits standing by the side of the road and that was it. Make sure you carry enough water because it's HOT. The driving was not really difficult but perhaps can be if it's been raining because of river crossings with steep banks. It is an extremely beautiful route and scenically it was one of the highlights of our whole trip.
Camiel
www.amsterdam2capetown.com
[This message has been edited by camiel (edited 27 September 2003).]
|
14 Jul 2005
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 762
|
|
Hi,
I went along this road the day of the attack. A bit tense to say the least. My bike was too slow for armed convoy so they just sent me on anyway. Lots of armed villagers wandering about in groups, and the two main villages had self-imposed road blocks.
News reports today say that the army/police are now there in number, with armoured fighting vehicles. You take your chances. But route information from the locals in Moyale was inaccurate.
|
15 Jul 2005
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK/ZW
Posts: 725
|
|
There were 70 plus people killed, 200 plus injured, 70k's NW of Marsabit yesterday. 6am raid by supposed "shifta". Mainly women and school-children, pangas spears and AKs.
Check the Kenyan News sources for full info.
Last edited by Bundubasher; 17 Sep 2013 at 15:27.
|
22 Jul 2005
|
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Town South Africa
Posts: 222
|
|
Things as we all know change very fast in Africa so all this info could be useless soon, but non the less: I took the turkana route in July 2004 and found it to be extreme in every way, the highlight of my trip and also some of the most hair raising moments. Riding is often slow and getting caught at night on the road near Loyangalosi (spell?) meant lots of falling. There is petrol at Loyangalosi from mission priests but only if they have enough to spare. When i rode there was no Immig or customs at Illoret (Fort Banya on Mich map, but everyone in area knows it as illoret). There IS however Immigrattion on Ethiop side at Omorate, when i was there it was functional and they were building an new office. No Customs though, youll be told to go to customs in Addis. Dont bother, its madness, i spent 5 days there trying and gave up. Crossed into Sudan by riding straight past Ethiop customs. I met a guy who came from N to S via this route and he went to Kenya embassy in Addis to explain problem of no Immig in Illoret and they gave him letter which smoothed his way to Nairobi.
Moyale route ive not tried but its always been a bit dodgy... remember that trucks do pass every day and attacks are uncommon on travellers... could get hit by a bus in London, you get my drift?
__________________
"If we don't find something good at least we will find something new." Voltaire
|
18 Nov 2005
|
Registered Users
New on the HUBB
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 4
|
|
Has anyone done this route or heard of someone else. I am trying to get some GPS points as we plan to do this next year in september or so.
From a previous traveller's diary Stuart Williams was one of 3 post-graduate researchers travelling back to Ethiopia from Northern Kenya that they were researching the Ethopian Wolf and basically showed him the way through. Adrian and Catherine followed him and did their trip in 2002. They hit the Moyale road 70kms from Moyale and their pics of the area looked great.
Unfortunately their email address is no longer active.
I am trying to find information on the route in Northern Kenya from Moyale through the Huri Hills to Kalacha.
I have tried to contact Stuart through a co-worker and am waiting to hear from him, hoping he is reachable and responds. He is still in Ethopia.
If I find out more information I will post it on the forum if there is interest in this.
Also when we do it will make a track of it.
------------------
John
__________________
John
|
21 Nov 2005
|
Registered Users
HUBB regular
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Winnipeg, MB Cnd
Posts: 69
|
|
Has anyone been on the road up to Lodwar from southern Kenya? I was wondering what its like re: safefty, bandits etc?
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Next HU Events
ALL Dates subject to change.
2024:
- California: April 18-21
- Virginia: April 25-28
- Germany Summer: May 9-12
- Québec: May 17-19
- Bulgaria Mini: July 5-7
- CanWest: July 11-14
- Switzerland: August 15-18
- Ecuador: August 23-25
- Romania: August 30-Sept 1
- Austria: September 12-15
- France: September 20-22
- Germany Autumn: Oct 31-Nov 3
2025 Confirmed Events:
- Virginia: April 24-27 2025
- Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
- Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
- CanWest: July 10-13 2025
- Switzerland: Date TBC
- Ecuador: Date TBC
- Romania: Date TBC
- Austria: Sept. 11-15
- California: September 18-21
- France: September 19-21 2025
- Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025
Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!
Questions about an event? Ask here
See all event details
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
|
|
|